Univega Competizione
06-30-18, 11:29 PM
#26
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Hmmm, that's a big hole.
07-01-18, 01:15 PM
#27
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LBS to the rescue! Wandered in with one of the pad/holders to see what they had. They hand me these Clarks. Same thread, and works with the existing hardware/hex screw, etc.
07-01-18, 01:48 PM
#28
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It's nice to have brakes that work. Looking forward to the revised ride report.
07-02-18, 01:33 AM
#29
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Wow! I may not swap out the AGCs after all! Thanks for posting!
Looks like you also get a toe-in adjuster to boot. Very nice!
Looks like you also get a toe-in adjuster to boot. Very nice!
07-02-18, 10:33 AM
#30
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Ride report. I took it out last night after the new pads were on. Unfortunately, the new pads only made a slight improvement in braking. Rear wheel braking is the real problem area. Looks like I need to clean and properly prepare the sides of the rims to see if that is the bigger issue. Also, normal reminder to be really careful with the small hex head bolts. One of the front pad bolts is rounded out. I will probably need to use the Torx method to get it out.
07-02-18, 11:14 AM
#31
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The rear is always the weaker brake. It's just physics. Also, new pads always take a ride or two to bed in. Stopping power will increase as they do. Keep in mind that those are standard holders, and you can slip in kool stop pads or whatever boutique pads.
Important: vintage bikes were braked from the drop position. They cannot be effectively braked from the hoods like modern bikes. You can use brakes from the hoods for tooling around town or light braking, but you'll only get like half the brake power. I sound like a broken record, but a lot of people don't know this, and it's a safety issue. This is one of the reasons the drops used to be set flatter than they are now. Easier to grab the levers.
07-02-18, 01:29 PM
#32
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Looks like the pads are set a bit farther from the rim than I prefer. I'd advise you take up some of the cable and get them closer. Also, the cable should be pulled and greased. That bike predates lined housing. Replace if the end is frayed and won't go back. Frankly not a bad idea to replace both housing and cables. True the wheel if needed for clearance.
The rear is always the weaker brake. It's just physics. Also, new pads always take a ride or two to bed in. Stopping power will increase as they do. Keep in mind that those are standard holders, and you can slip in kool stop pads or whatever boutique pads.
Important: vintage bikes were braked from the drop position. They cannot be effectively braked from the hoods like modern bikes. You can use brakes from the hoods for tooling around town or light braking, but you'll only get like half the brake power. I sound like a broken record, but a lot of people don't know this, and it's a safety issue. This is one of the reasons the drops used to be set flatter than they are now. Easier to grab the levers.
The rear is always the weaker brake. It's just physics. Also, new pads always take a ride or two to bed in. Stopping power will increase as they do. Keep in mind that those are standard holders, and you can slip in kool stop pads or whatever boutique pads.
Important: vintage bikes were braked from the drop position. They cannot be effectively braked from the hoods like modern bikes. You can use brakes from the hoods for tooling around town or light braking, but you'll only get like half the brake power. I sound like a broken record, but a lot of people don't know this, and it's a safety issue. This is one of the reasons the drops used to be set flatter than they are now. Easier to grab the levers.
07-08-18, 01:21 PM
#33
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I got the Competizione out for a couple of rides on our local bike paths this weekend. A little over 25 miles total. Brakes are wearing in and getting better with the new pads. This is a fantastic bike.
07-17-18, 09:05 AM
#34
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The serial number will tell us the year the frame was manufactured. Also, the Cyclone front derailleur may be OEM. Recently there was a case of a 1982 Competizione with Cyclone derailleurs, where both date codes matched closely with the fork date date code and serial number, suggesting that early Competizione were Cyclone equipped.
Here is some more proof that Sun Tour Cyclone M-II came OEM on these at some point. Competizione on Ebay right now
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