difficult fine tune bearing adjust on SS
06-03-21, 11:09 PM
#1
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difficult fine tune bearing adjust on SS
so, i serviced the bearings on sigle speed hub. Tightened the bearing locknut. The bearing feels a tad too tight. So...
i am suppose to slightly turn both cone nuts counterclockwise to loosen bearing.
But the freewheel is in the way of the wrench. How should one go about it?
Example: see the cone nut is deep inside the freewheel. No wrnech can get in there.
i am suppose to slightly turn both cone nuts counterclockwise to loosen bearing.
But the freewheel is in the way of the wrench. How should one go about it?
Example: see the cone nut is deep inside the freewheel. No wrnech can get in there.
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06-04-21, 01:16 AM
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06-04-21, 04:57 AM
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06-04-21, 08:11 AM
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Not asked for but I'll speak out anyway- The image shows one of the big no nos in working on a rear wheel. Cutting out the spokes before removing the cog(set). Makes for challenges with relacing a rim onto the hub, besides the mentioned access to the bearings.
I do wonder if the SS FW shown has remover notches on the back side. Andy
I do wonder if the SS FW shown has remover notches on the back side. Andy
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06-04-21, 08:24 AM
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Not asked for but I'll speak out anyway- The image shows one of the big no nos in working on a rear wheel. Cutting out the spokes before removing the cog(set). Makes for challenges with relacing a rim onto the hub, besides the mentioned access to the bearings.
I do wonder if the SS FW shown has remover notches on the back side. Andy
I do wonder if the SS FW shown has remover notches on the back side. Andy
Building a wheel is something I want to do.
This is better to know ahead of time.
But I bet it’s one of those “You’ll only make this mistake once” type of things.
06-05-21, 06:49 PM
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Andy,
There is something so not right about the pictured hub / freewheel assembly. Looks like trouble with a capital T. I am often left in bewilderment at what I see in the bike world. Smiles, MH
There is something so not right about the pictured hub / freewheel assembly. Looks like trouble with a capital T. I am often left in bewilderment at what I see in the bike world. Smiles, MH
06-05-21, 07:31 PM
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For one thing it looks unused. No wear on the cog teeth, locknut surfaces and only one spoke hole looks to be elbow indented... which might just be a dirt speck? The steel multi piece hub and rather low cost freewheel says to me not much will be expected but learning how to do stuff. Andy
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06-05-21, 07:47 PM
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Back to the point, rather than struggle getting two cone wrenches on, start again a little looser and tighten to perfection with two 17 mm combination wrenches.
06-06-21, 12:55 AM
#10
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one interesting observation....
the force required to adjust the bearing with two 17mm wrenches is not much, which surprised me.
because when i tighten each side with a 15mm & 17mm, it is super tight.
Last edited by mtb_addict; 06-06-21 at 12:59 AM.
06-06-21, 02:00 AM
#11
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the final adjustment is with the nuts on the frame, the axle will be compressed a bit because of that.
what i do is measure how many seconds (or i'd rather say beats) i get once the wheel is spinning (no chain mounted) at say 90bpm (rpm) with the tiniest bit of play (or no play but also negligible preload). just have a youtube as a metronome. the seals will have some drag and there's a bit of air drag too. then i tighten everything (including the wheel mounted on the frame) so there is a yet unknown but detectable preload achieved. i note the difference i get with that preload and i do the math. the drag effect of preload on the bearings is much less than the seals drag. having 20 seconds difference in wheel spin would be enough, i'd say to shoot for at least 10 seconds difference.
if the grease is not crap then it will have some additive(s) meant to increase viscosity under pressure... and preload increases the pressure for the wheel spinning with only it's small weight pressing on the bearing (and then your weight when riding will make the balls atop exerting less pressure). so YMMV.
what i do is measure how many seconds (or i'd rather say beats) i get once the wheel is spinning (no chain mounted) at say 90bpm (rpm) with the tiniest bit of play (or no play but also negligible preload). just have a youtube as a metronome. the seals will have some drag and there's a bit of air drag too. then i tighten everything (including the wheel mounted on the frame) so there is a yet unknown but detectable preload achieved. i note the difference i get with that preload and i do the math. the drag effect of preload on the bearings is much less than the seals drag. having 20 seconds difference in wheel spin would be enough, i'd say to shoot for at least 10 seconds difference.
if the grease is not crap then it will have some additive(s) meant to increase viscosity under pressure... and preload increases the pressure for the wheel spinning with only it's small weight pressing on the bearing (and then your weight when riding will make the balls atop exerting less pressure). so YMMV.
Last edited by adipe; 06-06-21 at 02:03 AM.
06-06-21, 10:04 AM
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Looking at that hub, I think that the OP is going to have trouble installing spokes on the drive side if they are planning on building a wheel
06-06-21, 07:29 PM
#13
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i need to replace the rusty spokes soon. so sooner or later, i need to get the freewheel off so the spokes can be replaced.
Last edited by mtb_addict; 06-06-21 at 07:42 PM.
06-06-21, 07:41 PM
#14
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the final adjustment is with the nuts on the frame, the axle will be compressed a bit because of that.
what i do is measure how many seconds (or i'd rather say beats) i get once the wheel is spinning (no chain mounted) at say 90bpm (rpm) with the tiniest bit of play (or no play but also negligible preload). just have a youtube as a metronome. the seals will have some drag and there's a bit of air drag too. then i tighten everything (including the wheel mounted on the frame) so there is a yet unknown but detectable preload achieved. i note the difference i get with that preload and i do the math. the drag effect of preload on the bearings is much less than the seals drag. having 20 seconds difference in wheel spin would be enough, i'd say to shoot for at least 10 seconds difference.
if the grease is not crap then it will have some additive(s) meant to increase viscosity under pressure... and preload increases the pressure for the wheel spinning with only it's small weight pressing on the bearing (and then your weight when riding will make the balls atop exerting less pressure). so YMMV.
what i do is measure how many seconds (or i'd rather say beats) i get once the wheel is spinning (no chain mounted) at say 90bpm (rpm) with the tiniest bit of play (or no play but also negligible preload). just have a youtube as a metronome. the seals will have some drag and there's a bit of air drag too. then i tighten everything (including the wheel mounted on the frame) so there is a yet unknown but detectable preload achieved. i note the difference i get with that preload and i do the math. the drag effect of preload on the bearings is much less than the seals drag. having 20 seconds difference in wheel spin would be enough, i'd say to shoot for at least 10 seconds difference.
if the grease is not crap then it will have some additive(s) meant to increase viscosity under pressure... and preload increases the pressure for the wheel spinning with only it's small weight pressing on the bearing (and then your weight when riding will make the balls atop exerting less pressure). so YMMV.
06-07-21, 02:36 AM
#15
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if the bearings have the right preload than it will be much, much less drag from it than from the seals. so if you want to fine tune that preload you should compare the drag of the wheel spinning with no preload (seals and air drag) and then add just a slight preload so you can barely detect it. and to fine tune it you need to resort to clocking the wheel slowing down from a measured rpm.
