Freebie jig in Madison WI area
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,096
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 1,395 Times
in
762 Posts
Freebie jig in Madison WI area
This turned up on the C&V forum. Probably more relevant here...
https://madison.craigslist.org/zip/d...626288484.html
https://madison.craigslist.org/zip/d...626288484.html
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,096
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4210 Post(s)
Liked 3,878 Times
in
2,315 Posts
Someone needs to scoop this jig up and save some history while progressing their own path. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#3
blahblahblah chrome moly
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,994
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1181 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times
in
1,076 Posts
On the other hand it might be an absolutely terrible jig, not worth the effort to haul it to the recycler. I am very curious to find out, hope someone gets it and reports what they find.
#4
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
I don't think I would like to use it, but I am very curious where it came from. Don't think I have ever seen a downtube attachment scheme like that. I wonder if it's only good for standard tubes.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,096
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4210 Post(s)
Liked 3,878 Times
in
2,315 Posts
I see that the listing has been deleted. I hope this means that someone took up the offer. Perhaps this person will find us here and give us more story
I had hoped to get a better look at the DT clamping too. It almost looks like there is a second HT pilot shaft being only held by the DT clamp... Andy
I had hoped to get a better look at the DT clamping too. It almost looks like there is a second HT pilot shaft being only held by the DT clamp... Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#6
framebuilder
This kind of big flat plate fixture was popular back in the early days of frame building (after the bike boom in 1970/71) before decent commercially available fixtures were available in the US. My worry about any semi-home made fixture is that the chances it can reliably do a rear triangle accurately (so the wheel is centered at the chain and seat stays) is very small. Even expensive fixtures can likely have that problem. This is the main reason I teach how to build the rear triangle using a true wheel and straight edges. That way insures more accurate results.
My philosophy of building is to only use a fixture to tack the frame tubes together and then braze free. There are good reasons for this. 1st a fixture can get in the way of your flame and probably inhibits or actually prevents moving the frame to be in the best brazing position. 2nd a frame needs to be able to expand freely when heated. A fixture doesn't insure alignment accuracy if brazed in it anyway. Your heating pattern keeps things aligned. Most fixtures are a bit out of spec. It can be really expensive to get everything machined so all the holding mechanisms are perfectly aligned. This is why the fixtures I have laser cut and etched in Ukraine sit on a flat tale so the table provides the accuracy.
There are 2 things that are important to me that some fixtures lack. 1st is the ease of setup. I don't want to struggle to get the angles and lengths precisely set. And I don't want to work much if something needs to be reset (like a tube is mitered 1mm short). And I use my fixture to design the frame based on the rider's bicycle position. I know some of my colleagues enjoy the drawing process but I let my fixture do that work.
In other words the kind of fixture one chooses determines the process used to make the frame. It is an important choice and I would choose carefully. I think before one gets a fixture, one should get an alignment table. Or have a good system to align a frame while it is being made.
My philosophy of building is to only use a fixture to tack the frame tubes together and then braze free. There are good reasons for this. 1st a fixture can get in the way of your flame and probably inhibits or actually prevents moving the frame to be in the best brazing position. 2nd a frame needs to be able to expand freely when heated. A fixture doesn't insure alignment accuracy if brazed in it anyway. Your heating pattern keeps things aligned. Most fixtures are a bit out of spec. It can be really expensive to get everything machined so all the holding mechanisms are perfectly aligned. This is why the fixtures I have laser cut and etched in Ukraine sit on a flat tale so the table provides the accuracy.
There are 2 things that are important to me that some fixtures lack. 1st is the ease of setup. I don't want to struggle to get the angles and lengths precisely set. And I don't want to work much if something needs to be reset (like a tube is mitered 1mm short). And I use my fixture to design the frame based on the rider's bicycle position. I know some of my colleagues enjoy the drawing process but I let my fixture do that work.
In other words the kind of fixture one chooses determines the process used to make the frame. It is an important choice and I would choose carefully. I think before one gets a fixture, one should get an alignment table. Or have a good system to align a frame while it is being made.