Sargeist

I've started doing my shopping for my new commuter and wanted to get the opinion on a component group fro someone that knows more than I.

Here it is:

Frame Oversized, Custom Formed TIG Welded 6061 Aluminum Front Triangle with Hydroformed tubes. Rear Triangle with replaceable rear derailleur hanger
Suspension Fork SunTour long travel, preload adjustable
Rear Suspension N/A
Crankset SunTour, aluminum arms, 170mm, Powershift Rings 22/32/42T
Bottom Bracket Sealed Cartridge Unit, square taper 113/68
Pedals Beartrap MTB with metal cage
Front Derailleur Shimano FD-M190
Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera
Shifters SHIMANO ST-EF51 24 SPD, EZ Fire Trigger
Cassette/Freewheel SHIMANO MegaRange 8 speed CS-HG308 11-34T-8
Chain Narrow 8 Speed
Hubs Formula Forged Aluminum Disc w/Q.R. and debris seal ball bearings
Spokes Stainless Steel
Rims Maddux DX221, double wall 6061 T6 aluminum, Black finish
Tires MultiTread 26x2.1 inch
Brakes Tektro Novela mechanical disc 160mm rotors
Brake Levers Shimano ST-EF51
Headset Cane Creek VP-A71 BLACK Threadless 1.125 inch, contact sealed ball bearing
Handlebar 20° rise Aluminum
Stem Comp Aluminum Threadless for 1.125 inch
Tape/Grip Kraton Black dual compound
Saddle WTB Speed V Sport SE with LoveChannel
Seat Post Aluminum alloy MicroAdjust, 27.2mm
Seat Clamp Alloy Q.R.

chewybrian 

In mountain bike components, the good stuff tends to be 9-speed, 8 speed is in the middle, and 7-speeds are at Wal-mart. You are just below the middle; nothing on the list looks cheesy or awesome. If you will only be on the roads, a suspension fork is mainly dead weight, and wastes some of your effort to boot. So, you might ditch that for commuting, but some people like to jump curbs and go off road a bit. You can always switch out components to taste later. I'd want some clipless pedals and a Brooks saddle, myself. Don't forget to budget for lights, racks, bags, and such. And it's good to have a beater bike ready in case the good one needs repair. Good luck.

(Are you a Reds fan? They have another shot to make the playoffs, and anything can happen then, even if the Phillies are loaded. I was seriously bummed that they stopped spring training in Fl.)

Sargeist

Thanks for the help. I have never bought nor will buy a bicycle from Wally world. I patronize my local LBS or co-op. I would consider my knowledge of bikes aboce average but not on par with a bike mechanic. Right now my main ride isa 37 year old Huffy Comfort Touring. I have my eyes set on one of three bikes. A Rock Hopper, Giant Boulder, & Diamondback Apex. I need to go down to the LBS and go get a better feel for the individual bikes. I only took all three of them out for a quick test this weekend. In the next couple weeks I'll be making my decision. As far as racks and what not I have everything I need based on my current needs although I am considering runnig with two front lights this season instead of one like last year

Artkansas 

One thing to consider is what kind of conditions are you riding in. Hills? Rain? Snow? Bike Lanes?, MUPs? Narrow Streets? Potholes?

Abneycat

I'm going to just presume this is the bike, since it wasn't mentioned?

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...basecamp_1.htm

Suspension Fork SunTour long travel, preload adjustable

Suntour is currently the world's largest suspension manufacturer. They make everything from poor low end product to some great offerings. I don't know the specific name of that model of fork, but it isn't a particularly noteworthy one. It would be alright for softening curbs, but it isn't a really great fork if you're wanting to seriously off-road.

My personal inclination is to avoid suspension unless the commute is especially harsh or you are looking to use the one bike for trail riding - in the latter case, I would be moved to seek out a bike with a better fork. Suntour XCR, Rock Shox Dart, forks like those aren't expensive and are decent for some introductory - intermediate recreational trail riding. The really cheap stuff tends to go wobbly / fall apart after too much time on anything other than a gravel path.

Crankset SunTour, aluminum arms, 170mm, Powershift Rings 22/32/42T

The rings on that crankset don't appear to be replaceable (they are riveted on). If you are a high mileage rider, it's worth having replaceable chain rings. However, you can always ride the crankset to the rings end, then replace it.

Front Derailleur Shimano FD-M190
Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera
Shifters SHIMANO ST-EF51 24 SPD, EZ Fire Trigger
Cassette/Freewheel SHIMANO MegaRange 8 speed CS-HG308 11-34T-8
Chain Narrow 8 Speed

This drivetrain package isn't high performance, but it should be pretty serviceable. I wouldn't personally have an issue commuting on this stuff, myself - i'm not incredibly picky though. I second Artkansas: Do you need that many gears, have lots of hills? If so, this is a good match. If not, you'll probably end up buying more replacement parts and doing more maintenance than necessary.

Hubs Formula Forged Aluminum Disc w/Q.R. and debris seal ball bearings
Spokes Stainless Steel
Rims Maddux DX221, double wall 6061 T6 aluminum, Black finish

Those are pretty standard entry level wheels. Nothing wrong with them. Avoid galvanized spokes and single walled rims, but those are things that typically only show up on bottom of the barrel wheels.

Brakes Tektro Novela mechanical disc 160mm rotors

This is the only part of this bike that makes me cringe, personally. After having worked on countless disc brakes, Novela is one of my least liked by a long shot.

Sargeist

Yes that is the bike. I appreciate the help. I will take it all into consideration when choosing my new rig.

Roody

If you're doing most riding on pavement, you might reconsider your tire choice. I would go for slick tires, 1.25 or 1.5, with pressure > 60 psi.

And yes, do some long test rides to compare. I have ridden all of the brands of mountain bike, and there is a lot of difference in feel and handling. Sometimes a cheaper bike will ride nicer. For example, I prefer the ride of a very cheap Haro (V2?) that I have over some much more expensive bikes.

iGotSkillz

I don't know why you would reccomend " However, you can always ride the crankset to the rings end " Worn chainrings ruin the chain, then the cassette all the while cooking the bottom bracket. Shimano Throwaway cranks are about 30 dollars and you get new crankarms every time. I tried replaceable chainrings and they squeak at some point. That noise will send vibrations through your body and mess you up ( if you ride any distance ) I do 100 miles at a time on a full suspension bike. If you learn how to use your calves and buy commuter tires you will likely enjoy the ride. Full suspension is much safer if you have to avert issues. Full suspension is harder but if you are strong, can be strong or have a short ride, full suspension is the way to go. The Gravity bike with the shock mounted to DOWNTUBE ONLY. Any other design and you are beating yourself. The shock must be taken apart and pour some STP in there. Not much as it will drip until the proper amount is in there. Lube the pivot bearing with WD40 Gel. I had road bikes and on long distances they werent easier and the time to do 100 miles was the same. On a short ride the road bike is quicker but after a while the bumps take their toll, Tying it with the Full Susp Bike. COMMUTER tires from Continental make a humungous difference.

cooker

Great to see new people on Bike Forums! You have replied to a 12 year old thread - hope you don't mind me mentioning this. All the best!