OCD bike builds?
#51
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I'm somewhere in the middle. I do need the tires to match, and I do like my bicycles to have a "coherent" look to them. (probably not going to see silver bars on a black stem - except for on the Bob Jackson that came that way, or see cable colors that clash with the bar tape and saddle colors - for example).
That said, I won't hesitate to have modern wheels and a cassette attached to a cottered crank, if that suits what I want the bike to be.
That said, I won't hesitate to have modern wheels and a cassette attached to a cottered crank, if that suits what I want the bike to be.
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#52
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I live in the rabbit hole. A restored bike doesn't leave my shop until everything matches. It would just be terribly gauche to put on a black stem or bars with a silver crankset and/or rims. Mismatching colors and components just won't do.
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I traveled 9000 miles and spent a lot of money on a set of period-correct hubs.
You tell me if I'm ocd.
You tell me if I'm ocd.
#55
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Black components all around or silver components all around. Matching components that are in pairs.
Besides that, I typically dont operate in the realm of period correctness.
All my c&v frames are build up with a mix of old, post-modern, and modern.
I want wider bars than what was spec'd originally. I want hoods more comfortable than what was available originally. Etc etc.
If/when I find a nice quality and condition road frame from 1981 that fits, I'll build it up with period correct components(except bars) as I would like a bike as old as me with a look that is original.
Besides that, I typically dont operate in the realm of period correctness.
All my c&v frames are build up with a mix of old, post-modern, and modern.
I want wider bars than what was spec'd originally. I want hoods more comfortable than what was available originally. Etc etc.
If/when I find a nice quality and condition road frame from 1981 that fits, I'll build it up with period correct components(except bars) as I would like a bike as old as me with a look that is original.
#56
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These days I'm not exactly OCD about 'catalog parts,' or even 'roughly period correct.'
Things HAVE to match as I want things to match. That match may have something to do with an original catalog part, a part that matches a particular part or manufacturer, or a time period or just whatever I deem "cool."
Right now my Trek 620 has nearly a whole build of parts for an exceptionally glorious build... but I'm short of a few things, and don't have the discretionary cash to score what I want for this bike. There's seriously a completely awesome badass $1000+ wheel set sitting at the shop waiting for me for the past several months. I really should figure out what I really want and start putting some dough away.
Building up my Trek 720, I had to have a Dura Ace FD on that bike, but I couldn't get a 7803 triple FD to work. I put on a Mountech and then a Cyclone MII- they worked fine. They both looked really cool, especially the Cyclone. But it wasn't a Dura Ace. Eventually found a DA double that works perfectly!
IMG_0374 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
IMG_0375 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
IMG_1728 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
Things HAVE to match as I want things to match. That match may have something to do with an original catalog part, a part that matches a particular part or manufacturer, or a time period or just whatever I deem "cool."
Right now my Trek 620 has nearly a whole build of parts for an exceptionally glorious build... but I'm short of a few things, and don't have the discretionary cash to score what I want for this bike. There's seriously a completely awesome badass $1000+ wheel set sitting at the shop waiting for me for the past several months. I really should figure out what I really want and start putting some dough away.
Building up my Trek 720, I had to have a Dura Ace FD on that bike, but I couldn't get a 7803 triple FD to work. I put on a Mountech and then a Cyclone MII- they worked fine. They both looked really cool, especially the Cyclone. But it wasn't a Dura Ace. Eventually found a DA double that works perfectly!
IMG_0374 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
IMG_0375 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
IMG_1728 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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#57
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I'm never really done with my bikes, so I'm OCD with them for as long as I own them.....
I kinda give away my "OCD-ness" by the way I pose ALL my bikes for all their pics, if you guys noticed...
I kinda give away my "OCD-ness" by the way I pose ALL my bikes for all their pics, if you guys noticed...
Last edited by Chombi1; 09-20-19 at 06:52 PM.
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#58
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OCD enough that I don't clamp my bike into the repair stand by the top tube.
I have never really been able to accurately date my Concorde, so I just built it how I liked.
I have never really been able to accurately date my Concorde, so I just built it how I liked.
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It depends for me, I would never run mismatched tires period, mismatched wheels don't bother me as much if they are the same color ans shape. I recently added LX cantilevers to an MTB restore while the existing are dia-compe 987s, finding used 987s for a decent price kept me from matching them.
I do try my best with my vintage camp road bikes to keep them as close to full groupos but money is a factor
I do try my best with my vintage camp road bikes to keep them as close to full groupos but money is a factor
Brakes wouldn't bother me at all. I've just started a restore on a vintage Cannondale, it actually has those brakes and they work fine.
No rear derailleur on it, though, so I'm still hunting for a Suntour X-1 Accushift. I've seen them for $150 on ebay, but I'm not willing to spend that kind of money. Mostly, I want it to function smoothly. The freewheel is fine, so as long as the shifters are good, I'm gonna keep looking for that derailleur, unless I can figure out something that's compatible with the rest.
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Ocd ?
So how OCD are you when it comes to restoring a vintage bike?
There are some for whom every detail has to be original equipment perfect (or period correct), some who use lots of vintage parts but take "artistic license," and others who could just care less as long as the bike works.
I have to admit there are some things that drive me a bit crazy.
I can't really handle mismatched wheels. I recently did a multi day tour where my real hub broke at the flange and I had to get a replacement rear wheel to finish the ride. That bike will be getting "new" old wheels soon because there is no way I'll ride it with mismatched wheels when I have other options
I started this thread because I need to make a decision soon on a Reynolds 531 Libertas I'm rebuilding. The bike came to me with mismatched calipers and levers (universal cx calipers and "Alfa" brake levers (I think they're Spanish). They work together as the brake lever has a cable adjuster (the calipers do not). I'm not sure if I can handle the mismatch when I build the bike up, . So either I find universal cx brake levers or just get a different set of brakes with matching levers.
How OCD are you in building up your bikes? Here is a pic of the mismatched lever and caliper:
There are some for whom every detail has to be original equipment perfect (or period correct), some who use lots of vintage parts but take "artistic license," and others who could just care less as long as the bike works.
I have to admit there are some things that drive me a bit crazy.
I can't really handle mismatched wheels. I recently did a multi day tour where my real hub broke at the flange and I had to get a replacement rear wheel to finish the ride. That bike will be getting "new" old wheels soon because there is no way I'll ride it with mismatched wheels when I have other options
I started this thread because I need to make a decision soon on a Reynolds 531 Libertas I'm rebuilding. The bike came to me with mismatched calipers and levers (universal cx calipers and "Alfa" brake levers (I think they're Spanish). They work together as the brake lever has a cable adjuster (the calipers do not). I'm not sure if I can handle the mismatch when I build the bike up, . So either I find universal cx brake levers or just get a different set of brakes with matching levers.
How OCD are you in building up your bikes? Here is a pic of the mismatched lever and caliper:
old cars in Havana! Julis in Ohio
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#61
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The Shimano Dura Ace AX group was an exception. It included Bars and a beautiful stem. The Araya 821 Aero bike I bought a couple of yrs ago was all original except for bars and seat. I finally found bars, including the custom end caps, on an Australian e bay site, and bought a new Kashimax seat from Japan. I did replace the cables and tires and am now searching for original decals to complete the restoration.
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For me, if it came original, it stays original. As far as changing something , I try to stay period correct. I don't do modern bikes so that's not quite so hard to do. All of my spare parts are from the seventies as are my bikes. My most recent build was a 1972 ItalVega that was upgraded early on in its life , so replacing the Universal brakes with early Campy Record brakes was fine. If I deviate from original components I keep the original equipment in a box with the label stating which bike they came from. I don't know why because I have no intention of selling any of them! Yes, tires and wheels need to match, I am fussy about that. OCD can best describe a fair amount of us as who else needs so many bikes? Joe joesvintageroadbikes.wordpress
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#65
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Kidding aside, some bikes deserve that level of attention. And I'm sure you got a nice pizza or two out of those 9,000 miles.
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I'm slowly restoring a red Bianchi to the original Suntour Cyclone groupset. All I need to complete it are a Cyclone BB spindle and Cyclone brake calipers. Wheels with Cyclone hubs would be nice buy aren't a necessity due to the high cost of the ones I've seen thus far.
Cheers
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#67
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Now, that is one thing that wouldn't necessarily bother me on a low countries bike from that era.
BITD, when MAFAC calipers were widely considered to be the best available (except by the Italians, of course), many racers would combine them with Universal levers (except the French of course), as the MAFAC levers need fairly big hands and the half hoods need to be taped securely to the levers of you want them to stay put.
BITD, when MAFAC calipers were widely considered to be the best available (except by the Italians, of course), many racers would combine them with Universal levers (except the French of course), as the MAFAC levers need fairly big hands and the half hoods need to be taped securely to the levers of you want them to stay put.
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generally, it was considered a bit of a luxury just to get a frame pump painted to match the bike's color.
Steve in Peoria
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#69
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That is a beautiful bicycle. I think I might be even more OCD than you.....I will never repaint a vintage bicycle....for me it has to be original paint. Some believe that repainting the bike lowers the value also. I have seen some very nice repaints done however and they are very expensive. I might not take it as far as one screw, however so maybe we are tied. Is that orange the original color or what you painted it to?
Now the question is ....Is it non purist to buff out a scratch or two as long as you do not use any replacement paint??? Any opinions on that?
Now the question is ....Is it non purist to buff out a scratch or two as long as you do not use any replacement paint??? Any opinions on that?
No way I'm going to repaint the frame on this first vintage bike I've decided to try to restore, despite all the scratches missing pieces of decal. Okay, I might try to replace some of the decals.
BUT, the steel fork has some missing paint and a thin layer of rust. I could prep that and repaint it, but it's not going to match that "cosmic black with white web" on the rest of the bike, so I'm just going to buff out the rust, treat it with metal ready and cover the bare spots with por-15. It will be close to the same black, but an obvious touch-up if you look close. But that's fine. Not going to be painting the frame.
How would anybody recognize the model if I do?
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Found a fabulous family restaurant on via Gustavo Fara. Didn't speak a word of English. Grilled octopus, risotto Milanese and a perfect Tuscan filet.
#71
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Kinda OCD. Well if you ask my wife, definitely, and not just bicycles. I will go to approximate time frame for parts. I don't consider pedals unless it is for display. I don't repaint unless the original is way beyond acceptable with sub paint rust. Preservation is more important than cracked paint with rust. If it is an upper end model, then it is likely to be in better shape to be able to preserve it.
I bought a 1991 Montello that had 7400 series parts. Converted to Campagnolo because it is Italian, damnit! I could put the 7400 stuff on the newly acquired De Rosa but that wont work either. May put it on a Trek, just thought of that but I have already decided to put Superbe Pro on. I digress.
If the parts work, I use them. My 1972 Motobecane Le Champion got into it with a car. All the parts are good so I loaded them on a 1984 Trek 610 where they fit. Worked great!
Need pics:
1983 Trek 610 60 cm (24" by Patrick Boulden, on Flickr
I bought a 1991 Montello that had 7400 series parts. Converted to Campagnolo because it is Italian, damnit! I could put the 7400 stuff on the newly acquired De Rosa but that wont work either. May put it on a Trek, just thought of that but I have already decided to put Superbe Pro on. I digress.
If the parts work, I use them. My 1972 Motobecane Le Champion got into it with a car. All the parts are good so I loaded them on a 1984 Trek 610 where they fit. Worked great!
Need pics:
1983 Trek 610 60 cm (24" by Patrick Boulden, on Flickr
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#72
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To show you're not alone: I'll be driving 3,000k in the next couple of weeks to get me some crostini neri and Lardo di Colonnata. Oh, and maybe some Universal 77 hoods.
#73
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Generally start with the original catalog pics and specs, and go from there. Rims and tires have to match, don’t care about OEM, but usually wheels built with NOS vintage rims and hub sets from the bikes build year, plus or minus a few. Although, recently built up a Raleigh Supercourse with Velocity A23 assymetric rims that I really like, so those will probably be my new, go to wheels, as NOS vintage rims are getting harder to find, unless your looking for tubeless. Tend to replace the seatpost, stem, and bars with Nitto, as I want zero time on those components. CV bike has to look good, so will do touch-ups to a point, if repaint, color of my choosing, unless its a Celeste Bianchi, then factory match. Brakes and transmission have to be spot on, will upgrade to dual pivots, or modify single pivots to operate like duals, so easy to brake from the hoods. Generally stick with the original derailleurs, or find something close, but usually switch to a modern freewheel for smoother shifts. I do enjoy riding CV bikes, but to me, half the fun is the search, restoration, and rebuild experience.
Tim
Tim
#74
Just call me Carrie
I am not at all. Well, maybe a little. It depends on the bike. My son has requested that once I'm done with my Shogun--whose paint has seen better days and several spills--that I change it from burgundy to electric green. Sure, I said, because he's going to inherit it from me in a few years. (Unless I get my hands on something he wants more, of course.) I plan on upgrading the brakes and shifters and most likely replacing the handlebars.
BUT, the Centurion is another story. The components are decent even though the frame needs to be repainted. So, we'll keep what we can, probably find anything that needs to be replaced. I will be adding another brake because I'm actually going to be riding it in triathlons and I have a tendency to bomb down hills at alarming speeds. The new brake will match the original. The handlebars will be replaced with aero bars. I've already taken it to my auto body place to get the paint colors matched for the repaint. The seat post is toast, but I'm not sure I want that to be aluminum again, with the whole riding-while-dripping-water thing I'm going to be doing.
So, I'll keep what I can and change what I can't. This doesn't mean I might not end up with a couple "donor" bikes in the garage and my husband will park his car outside because the garage is becoming a bike shop...like he has been for the past three months.
BUT, the Centurion is another story. The components are decent even though the frame needs to be repainted. So, we'll keep what we can, probably find anything that needs to be replaced. I will be adding another brake because I'm actually going to be riding it in triathlons and I have a tendency to bomb down hills at alarming speeds. The new brake will match the original. The handlebars will be replaced with aero bars. I've already taken it to my auto body place to get the paint colors matched for the repaint. The seat post is toast, but I'm not sure I want that to be aluminum again, with the whole riding-while-dripping-water thing I'm going to be doing.
So, I'll keep what I can and change what I can't. This doesn't mean I might not end up with a couple "donor" bikes in the garage and my husband will park his car outside because the garage is becoming a bike shop...like he has been for the past three months.
#75
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