1950s Bianchi
08-28-19, 05:45 PM
#51
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There should be posts on packing and shipping bikes.
But, you seem to be quite Google Savvy.
The Quick Release was invented by Tulio Campagnolo in 1927 (which you have lots of Campagnolo components). It is somewhat bike specific, but similar cam-locks are used elsewhere. But, the first step is to flip the lever, rather than trying to twist. I like to get mine pretty tight when installing wheels to ride, especially if using "horizontal rear dropouts" which the rear wheel likes to slide forward. Newer bikes use a more vertical dropout which that slippage doesn't occur as much.
08-29-19, 01:45 PM
#52
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Hehe, so, uh, is the bike the right size for you?
08-29-19, 03:57 PM
#53
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Ha! Probably- I’m 5’9”- but haven’t been on a bike for about 40 years, and sure someone else will appreciate it in a way I never could. All of you that do ride should really ride here one day, though. It’s a gorgeous area - probably quite a challenging ride, but bikers seem to love it.
08-29-19, 04:06 PM
#54
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Yep, a bike specific vocabulary. Much of it is self-explanatory... I think. Or once you see it, it is logical.
There should be posts on packing and shipping bikes.
But, you seem to be quite Google Savvy.
The Quick Release was invented by Tulio Campagnolo in 1927 (which you have lots of Campagnolo components). It is somewhat bike specific, but similar cam-locks are used elsewhere. But, the first step is to flip the lever, rather than trying to twist. I like to get mine pretty tight when installing wheels to ride, especially if using "horizontal rear dropouts" which the rear wheel likes to slide forward. Newer bikes use a more vertical dropout which that slippage doesn't occur as much.
There should be posts on packing and shipping bikes.
But, you seem to be quite Google Savvy.
The Quick Release was invented by Tulio Campagnolo in 1927 (which you have lots of Campagnolo components). It is somewhat bike specific, but similar cam-locks are used elsewhere. But, the first step is to flip the lever, rather than trying to twist. I like to get mine pretty tight when installing wheels to ride, especially if using "horizontal rear dropouts" which the rear wheel likes to slide forward. Newer bikes use a more vertical dropout which that slippage doesn't occur as much.
08-29-19, 04:17 PM
#55
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08-29-19, 04:23 PM
#56
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Good to hear!!!!
For some reason, some people get stems and seatposts stuck. Others don't. But, it is good to hear that yours came out after sitting for decades in sub-optimal conditions.
It also looks like your stem was inserted a good 3" or so, which is a reasonable amount.
For some reason, some people get stems and seatposts stuck. Others don't. But, it is good to hear that yours came out after sitting for decades in sub-optimal conditions.
It also looks like your stem was inserted a good 3" or so, which is a reasonable amount.
08-29-19, 04:24 PM
#57
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You're well on your way to becoming a Bike Mechanic!!!!
08-29-19, 04:33 PM
#58
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Ha! Thinking I’m very lucky my dad was obsessive about lubing parts back in his day. The little bolt I turned to get the handlebars out doesn’t seem to tighten back down as I put them back on. It still lifts up and down. Is that just how it is, or did I not line something up right?
08-29-19, 04:37 PM
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Ha! Thinking I’m very lucky my dad was obsessive about lubing parts back in his day. The little bolt I turned to get the handlebars out doesn’t seem to tighten back down as I put them back on. It still lifts up and down. Is that just how it is, or did I not line something up right?
Hand tighten the internal wedge until it is snug against the stem, but not expanding it.
Then insert the bars and you should be able to properly tighten down.
08-29-19, 04:38 PM
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...in case by some odd chance you do end up packing and shipping it (and I can't really say enough to discourage that, but it sometimes needs to be done), make certain that you put some kind of dummy axles in the fork and rear dropouts. YOU can just get a blank axle somewhere locally, and put axle nuts on the inside and outside of each fork end or dropout, then tighten them down to hold the axle in place. There are countless tragic stories on this forum about bikes packed and shipped without anything in the fork ends or drops that got bent or crushed in shipping.
This makes everyone involved sad, and is for that reason to be avoided.
This makes everyone involved sad, and is for that reason to be avoided.
08-29-19, 04:44 PM
#61
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08-29-19, 06:16 PM
#62
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...in case by some odd chance you do end up packing and shipping it (and I can't really say enough to discourage that, but it sometimes needs to be done), make certain that you put some kind of dummy axles in the fork and rear dropouts. YOU can just get a blank axle somewhere locally, and put axle nuts on the inside and outside of each fork end or dropout, then tighten them down to hold the axle in place. There are countless tragic stories on this forum about bikes packed and shipped without anything in the fork ends or drops that got bent or crushed in shipping.
This makes everyone involved sad, and is for that reason to be avoided.
This makes everyone involved sad, and is for that reason to be avoided.
08-29-19, 06:51 PM
#63
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That's scary. But thank you very much for the tips for packing. Still no solid decision on how/where to sell. May actually try the Facebook marketplace and see if anyone in range of me is interested. Will probably start a bit higher for bargaining room. I still want to go get the fenders from Dad's house and clean them, and then I'll be about ready to do something. Speedbicycles in Switzerland said they may be interested, but not sure the price I'd need to ship there is going to be a go, and from what you're saying, maybe a bad idea anyways.
The main problem with ebay is that if anything at all goes wrong and the buyer complains about condition upon receipt, you as the seller end up hung out to dry. Most of the transactions are pretty solid, but there are many stories here about people who've given up on it for shipping bikes. Components are smaller, less fragile, and sell reasonably well. But that's not what your intention is for this bicycle. You might very well hit upon someone within driving distance who is into the tedious process of restoration. God knows there seem to be many of them.
After the last two or three, I might just stick to riding what I already have. Life is short. Someone will turn up out there. Most of the people I know who do this sort of thing are regularly scanning Craigslist for candidate bikes like yours, with all the original parts (even if rusted...like the crank). Some will even spend the money for re-chroming parts and frames. Which is a pretty substantial investment.
A Craigslist ad is free, and you can run them in all the nearby cities. The major drawback on CL is you get responses from a lot of scammers and unreliable people who waste your time, So if you go that route, be prepared to triage the responses.
08-29-19, 07:08 PM
#64
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...I have a Cinelli bicycle here that I ended up with because the seller put it on ebay. The winning bid was someone in Switzerland. The Swiss guy was perfectly willing to pay whatever the charges for packing and shipping, but the seller here put it on the local CL in hopes he wouldn't have to deal with it.
The main problem with ebay is that if anything at all goes wrong and the buyer complains about condition upon receipt, you as the seller end up hung out to dry. Most of the transactions are pretty solid, but there are many stories here about people who've given up on it for shipping bikes. Components are smaller, less fragile, and sell reasonably well. But that's not what your intention is for this bicycle. You might very well hit upon someone within driving distance who is into the tedious process of restoration. God knows there seem to be many of them.
After the last two or three, I might just stick to riding what I already have. Life is short. Someone will turn up out there. Most of the people I know who do this sort of thing are regularly scanning Craigslist for candidate bikes like yours, with all the original parts (even if rusted...like the crank). Some will even spend the money for re-chroming parts and frames. Which is a pretty substantial investment.
A Craigslist ad is free, and you can run them in all the nearby cities. The major drawback on CL is you get responses from a lot of scammers and unreliable people who waste your time, So if you go that route, be prepared to triage the responses.
The main problem with ebay is that if anything at all goes wrong and the buyer complains about condition upon receipt, you as the seller end up hung out to dry. Most of the transactions are pretty solid, but there are many stories here about people who've given up on it for shipping bikes. Components are smaller, less fragile, and sell reasonably well. But that's not what your intention is for this bicycle. You might very well hit upon someone within driving distance who is into the tedious process of restoration. God knows there seem to be many of them.
After the last two or three, I might just stick to riding what I already have. Life is short. Someone will turn up out there. Most of the people I know who do this sort of thing are regularly scanning Craigslist for candidate bikes like yours, with all the original parts (even if rusted...like the crank). Some will even spend the money for re-chroming parts and frames. Which is a pretty substantial investment.
A Craigslist ad is free, and you can run them in all the nearby cities. The major drawback on CL is you get responses from a lot of scammers and unreliable people who waste your time, So if you go that route, be prepared to triage the responses.
08-30-19, 03:57 AM
#66
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08-30-19, 07:41 AM
#67
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let it be.
I'm thinking I'd probably be best to leave it to the buyer to decide. I hate to strip anything off and not leave them the option. The chrome really seems like it'll all clean up well. A lot of gunk came off with very little effort. The painted areas I worry about more. It feels kind of like sandpaper - feels like raised bumps I could scrub off, but afraid if I tried that paint / decals would come with it. Will probably end up selling as it is. I worry about getting it apart safely if I have to ship it... but I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Maybe could even find a bike shop that would take apart what needs to come apart and help me out.
Exactly.
It's been untouched for a long time. You are not going to increase the value by polishing it. Polished Coins are considered ruined. Patience. If someone wants to restore this seriously, they will know, or learn, how best to approach this. I wish I could, way cool project, and receipt is icing...
GLWS, glad you are doing it carefully. (And I am not a whiner about "true" restorations in general). If there really are not more than a handful of original Bianchis from the fifties, I think a bit of patience to see if this is something worth careful restoration , vs just shining up and passing on to some poseur, is a good thing.
08-30-19, 10:14 AM
#69
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08-30-19, 11:08 AM
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08-30-19, 11:36 AM
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08-31-19, 05:37 AM
#73
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Decided to start with Craigslist in the Northern Panhandle of WV and the Vintage and Antiques Bicycles for Sale FB group/marketplace to start. Really hoping for a local delivery, but I'm so happy that all of you gave me great shipping tips if not. Found out there is a local bike shop about a half hour from me that I never knew about that could help me for shipping if needed. Thank you so much to all of you for your help and information. You are all a wealth of information, and I appreciate your patience in explaining everything!!
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09-04-19, 01:39 PM
#74
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Your ad has gotten some attention in the STEEL IS REAL !!! - Classic Vintage Road Bikes Facebook group. (https://www.facebook.com/groups/42851702426/).
Good price on the bike, allows the buyer some bargaining room but it's high enough to dissuade anyone who doesn't understand what this bike is.
All the best with the sale and thanks for a fun thread and a look at a very cool bike.
Good price on the bike, allows the buyer some bargaining room but it's high enough to dissuade anyone who doesn't understand what this bike is.
All the best with the sale and thanks for a fun thread and a look at a very cool bike.
09-04-19, 02:28 PM
#75
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Your ad has gotten some attention in the STEEL IS REAL !!! - Classic Vintage Road Bikes Facebook group. (https://www.facebook.com/groups/42851702426/).
Good price on the bike, allows the buyer some bargaining room but it's high enough to dissuade anyone who doesn't understand what this bike is.
All the best with the sale and thanks for a fun thread and a look at a very cool bike.
Good price on the bike, allows the buyer some bargaining room but it's high enough to dissuade anyone who doesn't understand what this bike is.
All the best with the sale and thanks for a fun thread and a look at a very cool bike.
Will have to join that FB group out of curiosity. Really appreciate all of the help I got here and feel like I know so much more than I did when I first posted. Now.... about that Raleigh Crested Butte... hahahaThanks again!
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