BigPoser

Hi All,

I'm building up my gravel machine and have everything except my wheels and tires and that is where I need some advice. I've narrowed it down to a couple wheels and a couple tires. I'm able to get the wheels with discounts so there would be about a $200 difference between them. The Light Bike wheels would be built with Novatec hubs if that helps.

Here are the wheels that I'm looking at:
https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-tu...vel-bikes.html

https://industrynine.com/wheels/road/ul-235-tra/

My tire options would be either the Donnelly MSO X'Plor 700x40c or Panaracer Gravelking SK 700x38c. I've used the MSO's in a 36c and I really liked them. Hearing very good things about the Gravelking's as well.

Anyone have any experience with either of these?

Thanks in advance.

Brandon

redlude97

Would rather have i9 hubs over novatec so I'd lean that way even though the rims are al vs carbon

BigPoser

Thanks. I was kind of leaning that way as well. Funny thing is the i9 wheels are lighter than the LB.

mstateglfr 

Between the 2 tires you mention, I would go with the MSO in 120tpi if you are using tubes. Fast, light, and good protection. If tubeless, then still the MSO, I guess.

Marcus_Ti

NOTE the i9 wheelset weight limits. 100KG max. For a wheelset that is going to see some groading use I'd wanted a stronger build.

You can get Light Bicycle rims in lots of hub configurations...I wouldn't get Novatec hubs--they're cartridge bearing, but that is about all that there is that is nice to say about them. Many people report underwhelming bearing life. Mine or laced to Onyx Racing Products hubs, you can get them with DT or i9 hubs in stock sets

redlude97

Light aluminum rims aren't necessarily a good thing, they dent easily IME. Love my stan's crest but they aren't the most durable rim out there. Carbon rims can actually be made quite a bit more durable at the same weight as aluminum rims in these shallow depths

chas58

True. It sounds like carbon works best hookless. I hear some horror stories about hooked carbon rims gone wrong...

chas58

Well, popping in some new bearings is pretty easy and cheap if it comes to that.

BigPoser

What are the pros and cons of hooked vs hookless?

BigPoser

Thanks. I'll be tubeless for sure.

mstateglfr 

Because this is BF and almost none of us can resist suggesting he equipment, consider the WTB Resolute tire also.
I am using these tubeless, and they fly compared to the 120 TPI MSO, and I actually really liked the MSO.
The Resolute measures 43 mm wide on a pretty typical witdh rim, so that may be an issue, but if it isn't then definitely consider them. Bikeinn.com sells them for $35/which is probably 20 less than the MSO.
The tread blocks are more pronounced on the WTB, but review after review backs what I sense which is that tread does not make that tire slow.

Really though, there is no wrong choice with what you are considering. They are all quality tires over all.

wsteve464

I wouldn't go with the Gravelking. I had a set of the SK, it has been the only tire so far to get a sidewall puncture, three of them. Just didn't have good luck with them.

chas58

That can be a long answer…

Short answer:

With aluminum wheels, they are all hooked, because it is easier to make that way, and along with an inner tube, allows for a good grip on the tire and the use of high pressure.

With carbon – hookless is easier, cheaper, stronger, and can be safer at lower pressures. Putting a hook on a carbon wheel allows the use of higher pressure, but if not made properly, the hook can cut the tire causing a blowout.

Longer answer:

Hookless, like just about everything innovative, comes from mountain biking. You might notice that car and motorcycle tires are hookless. Like them, hookless mountain bike tires rely on the rim bed (not the wheel flange) to hold the tire in place against the wheel flange. Works well with tire pressure that cars and mountain bikes use.

With a carbon rim, It also makes a stronger rim that is (marginally) wider and easier (less expensive) to make. The down side is that most agree it can’t take much more than 60-70psi. This matter is worsened by the lack of standards and difficulty mounting tubeless that cause blow offs (although most of these are in a garage, not the road).

Beaded carbon rims have the advantage of being able to take more pressure when used with tubes. It’s a little more difficult with tubeless in that there is no tube pressing the tire into the bead (this is not necessary with hookless). The big problem comes in that carbon wheels are molded (not extruded like aluminum). Its easiest to have the mold release at the hooks, leading to some sharp flashing which will cut into a tire if not removed properly (and it not always is). Alternatively, the carbon wheel can be machined to give it the hook. This machining process sometimes exposes the ends of the fiber, and that can also cut through a tire. Of course when a tire fails, people usually blame the tire and not the wheel.

genrlz

I've been looking at both the MSO and the Michelin Power Gravel. I'm leaning more towards the Michelin. Have you looked at that yet?