superpletch

I don't want to start a debate on why I want a gravel specific bike, I like bikes and I want what I want.

I purchased a light touring/adventure bike (Specialized Sequoia) and have done some light touring and enjoy it a lot, especially after ditching the super heavy wheels for a decent set of lighter wheels and tires. I have been using it for some gravel riding, but find it a bit heavy and maybe not as nimble as I think I want, especially on a recent group gravel ride with more climbing than I've ever done on a gravel ride.

I would like a steel frame gravel specific bike and want to know what I should look for in geometry, drivetrain, wheels etc. This bike would stay on gravel without a load and would see some tarmac due to limited gravel in my immediate area. I am not opposed to building frame up myself, especially when looking at mainstream mfg's which convolute specs with adventure/gravel/light touring. I don't want to end up with something similar to what I already have. I like quality but don't want to spend $6k.

let er rip......

mstateglfr 

Black Mountain Cycles has a disc and a rim frame. Great stuff- good tubing quality, well thought out geometry, good value.

all city has solid frames with Whiskey carbon forks.

niner RLT steel frame with carbon fork.


these are 3 of many. I mentioned them because they are all different from one another in look/build/geometry.
...or go custom/semi-custom. Something like a Gunner frame and carbon fork.

mstateglfr 

Oh, there are a couple Breezer framesets right now on nashbar's site too. The radar pro(I think) has a carbon fork.

also the fairdale rockitship is a steel frame and carbon fork setup that isnt mentioned often.

tangerineowl

If you spent $5k you could have a very very nice fairly light steel build. A custom geo frame would even be in that budget; say around $2k max.
Geo: I'd go something like a 73.5/74degree seat tube angle. Head tube angle 71.5 or 72. Chainstays no more than 430mm. BB drop 70mm or so. Get the front-to-centre right so there's no toe overlap.
Frame to suit the clearance you want to run.

Drivetrain: Probably 2x with enough low end to get you up the steepest hills you ride. Disk. Hydro.

Wheels: A lightweight 28/32 hole set to suit your weight. Carbon rims tubeless.

There's a lot of very nice steel production frames out there if you look around.

Finally, I would bookmark The Paceline Forum: Custom Bikes section. There's a lot of recent "all-road/gravel" builds, to give you some idea of what's possible.

TimothyH

We need to start with weight of the Sequoia as it stands today and work from there.

Without that all anyone can do is approximate, or perhaps guess.

So how much does the Sequoia weigh? A basic idea of how it is built up would help too.


-Tim-

Noonievut

rgconner

Love my MCD, many good words to describe it... but "light" is not in list.

Stout and beefy are. =)

mstateglfr 

A bike may not be light in terms of pounds, but still rides light. It can feel quick in terms of steering, precise in terms of handling, and strong in terms of climbing.

I mentioned the black mountain because the rim brake frameset builds up to a pound + less than the disc version, because geometry has a ton to do with feeling fast and that frame geometry nails it(for me at least), and because the tubing is equal to most any other steel frameset that will be mentioned. The butting profile is going to match almost anything besides a custom build.
a 54cm frame in the rim version can build up to be 21# with an Ultegra drivetrain, quality cockpit(Ritchey alu wcs for example), and a1600g reliable wheelset. That will be a lot lighter than the Specialized bike the OP is currently riding.

a big reason why the MCD may seem 'beefy is because its a steel fork. Thats why I mentioned the other framesets and said that each frameset is very much different.
a carbon fork with matching geo could be had and used on the MCD to make it lighter, but ride improvement would be negligable.

I have found that 2# of frameweight is nothing with the right geometry. It disappears.

rgconner

Don't disagree at all, for a so-called Monster Cross, it is remarkably nimble depending on tire choice. Even with meaty 38's on, it is as nimble as most off the shelf bikes.

The Road+ is more nimble based on the geometry and the reports of Mike himself. I would not hesitate to recommend to anyone, but do point out if "light" is a real requirement for someone, then MCD/Road+ might not fit the bill, despite hitting everything else out of the park. ESPECIALLY color choices =)

If he does want light and unique, I would point him at Inglis Cycles, who will build a custom bike and do it to his specifications. The road bike I have was made by him nearly 20 years ago, and even built for my Clyde frame it is under 20 lbs.

Funny enough, it almost matches the geometry of the Road+