BladeRunnerX

This ones actually have the crampons (is that right word? my English isn't really that good) along with screws for cleats. Actually those might be MTB shoes. Sorry I have no idea, I am new to road cycling. Actually I just ordered running (sprint) shoes, those with removable spikes. I hope its gonna work for me, well I can use it for running anyways. Here is the picture:

healthie

Hi everyone,

I built up a touring bike and over the course of the tour my Surly LHT frame broke, and I shipped the components back. Now I'm in the city and looking to build up a commuter bike from the components. the wheel size were 700c and the fork was 1 1/8th" - can I get some suggestions for a frame to build around? looking to spend about $200 and ideally used. I'm 6"1 and 205lbs. How much do road bike frames sell for?
-I'd like to have panniers so a longer chainstay would be useful.

Manny87

Hey guys. Just bought my first road bike a week ago and am super in love with it. I bought a Fuji Track Classic as my daily commuter to school. I listened to your guys advice and bought it from an actual bike shop vs department store. I am glad I did.
So I am having a lot of fun on this bike and want to actually use it for more than just commuting. I actually want to ride in events. I want to ride with others. I want to join a team (if teams even exist). And I want to make this a hobby. The thing is, I am new to my area and know no one around here. My bike is a single speed. Will this work for 20-30 miles? I am former military and still in my late 20's so if your answer is "yes but you will have to work harder" than that is fine with me. I really can't afford to purchase another bike with gears just yet but if I do make this a hobby, I can see myself getting a geared bike within a year.
Thanks in advance.

Crazyhapa

Hello all,

I am looking to get my first road bicycle.

Just wondering what has changed from 2004-Now if you were to compare the same bike model.

Would I notice the difference?

agermano

My newbie question is about my hands. I am coming from doing very light mileage on a fitness bike set up with a nice cushy seat, and adjustable mountain bike bars, to the new CAAD8 I picked up yesterday. It was fitted to me, but I noticed after a 2 mile jaunt last night and a 5 mile trist (don't make fun of my mileage, I am new to this) this morning that man does my right hand, right under the thumb KILL. Tell me this gets better. I am also trying to concentrate on not locking my elbows, but even now it is still very sore making typing this pretty rough as well. I am sure all the other less than comfortable things you get used to, like the seat and being clipped in, but I just felt like I have a lot of pressure on my hands, especially my right hand. Is something incorrect, or is this just muscles needing to build? Thanks

dr_lha

Plenty has changed, but a bike is still a bike. If you're getting into road cycling for the first time, a 2004 bicycle will suit you well. Many people I ride with on group rides cope very well with bikes much much older than that.

cruffatin

Those links don't seem to work anymore. Anyway, I wouldn't buy a new $250 road bike with a triple - you're bound to have problems with it and won't feel like riding it. My friend bought a cheap bike like that, the thing never shifted properly, and is now gathering dust outside his home - he wouldn't even ride it to the store. A good used bike would be much better imho, but one thing you have to make sure is fit. A medium should be a good fit for you in most brands.

hemtaro

Hello everyone! I've never been interested in road biking until my friend lent me his Cannondale bike for a week and now I'm hooked. Any suggestion on a quality budget and well rounded road bike for a beginner? Anything under $500 would be awesome!

shay7

I haven't looked at the groupset, but the chief difference between the two models is relaxed v. racing geometry. The Sportif is the former. Do you want to be more upright? Get the Sportif. Want to feel aggressive (i.e. lower)? Get the Roubaix. Go for a ~1hr ride with your Roubaix - if you don't like the neck/lower back pain (which gets better as you accustom to the position), switch out.


I'm guessing you got it at Performance Bike, in which case you have a full year to make up your mind.

Bikeracer123

The Roubaix is also a much superior frame compared to sportif. It uses their a6 aluminum compared to the much heavier a2 frame of the Sportif.

piconner

I started a newbie thread in the general discussion a while back but it might have been deleted so I'm going here for a little help.


I originally was looking to get a used bike between 100-200 off craigslist but I'm whipping out that idea and I'm going to go with something better around $1,000-$1,500. I've committed to a 106 mile race in Arizona in November 2017 and if I jumped on a bike right now I'd probably max out at 5.


When I get into pricier bikes, I want to make sure I get it right, so I've been looking for a couple weeks and the more I look the more I'm confused. I haven't found a local bike shop in Detroit that anything spectacular and all pretty biased to the bikes they have (which seem to be limited). I have found a Trek ALR 5 that's $1175. The red is the one I like, but only in a 60 and I think that's just a tad too big. The 58 is what I need, and they only have that in blue (not a big fan) at another shop a ways away. When I spend the money, even the color matter to me. If I stand over the bike and left hand on bar and right on seat, I have probably an inch or so when I'm barefooted. I'm right at 6 feet tall, so idk if that's good or not and should snag that. The 58 just leaves a little more room for the goodies that I like when standing over the bike.


Basically, this whole rant is to see if I should just jump on this deal or keep looking. I like the looks of the Cannondale CAAD10 and I imagine I can find it in the same price range. I honestly don't know much about bikes, so looks and appearance are a lot right now. I figure I'll update the pedals at some point, but don't think I'll put too much money into this bike right away because I don't think for someone as novice as me, the updates I can do will make a big difference until I'm as good as this bike.


Any and all words or wisdom are appreciated. Right now, all I know is to get a bike that feels good (honestly none feel good because I've never ridden a bike at this angle and have no posture or muscles) and to get some very good shorts because they're worth every penny.

10 Wheels

First buy a Used bike.

Ride as much as you can.

I will be your learning bike.

Figure out WHAT you need in a New One Then go buy it.

piconner

If I get a cheap used bike for $200, that's $200 less I want to spend in the future. Do you really think riding an old bike for a couple months will make me realize what I do and don't like? That sounds facetious, but I'm actually asking if you think that will help? I feel like if I buy one now I'm going to get used to that and want to stick to it. I'd much rather get it right now and have a bike I can have for years and adapt to the bike rather than spend $200 on a bike I only plan on having for a couple months before upgrading.

10 Wheels

What good would it be if many of the new bike aspects were not what you needed?
So you could SPEND More $$ to change a new bike.

What Cranks Set? Triple, Compact Double. Tall Double.
What Length crank arms?
What pedals?
Spoke number in wheels.
Tire Size?
Proper feeling saddle?
Brakes? Disc, Hydraulic, mechanical?
Chain Size? 7,8,9 ,10, or 11 speed.

piconner

So riding a $200 bike that I can't upgrade is going to answer all those questions?

10 Wheels

Yes. I started on a $15 road bike.
That had too short crank arms.
Too short top tube.
Wheels that didn't brake in wet rides.

You can waist $$ on Up Grading a Used bike.
Do what you wish.

Many Happy Safe Miles to You.

goenrdoug

I'd agree that you'll want to get a used/less expensive bike, ride a thousand miles (or more) and figure out what you want in your 'real' bike. The added benefit is that you'll save some money, initially, that can be spent on BIB shorts (don't bother with non bib shorts, they'll end up unused in the bottom of a drawer once you buy a set of bibs) and all the other stuff you'll need (shoes, jerseys, glasses, flat repair kit, helmet, etc.)

I took the liberty of picking a few 58cm bikes off the detroit craigslist and there are a few that are excellent candidates:

Trek Road Bike For Sale (nice bike other than the pink stuff, note that the description of the shifters as Tiagra doesn't match the bike in the picture. Double check this one in person.)
New 2016 Cannondale Synapse SALE
58cm Specialized Allez Sport Road Bike
Trek 2100ZR Road Bike

piconner

This is going to be the route I take. I didn't want to do it, but after you and 10 Wheels explain it, it makes more sense. Hopefully riding a bike is like riding a car and you can figure out what you like and what you don't after a while.


Also, thanks a ton for looking on Craigslist for me. I've looked at some many of those I can't tell what's worth it and what's not so you narrowing it down helped a ton. I looked at the 'Bicycle Bluebook" and it seems the Trek 2100 ZR is overpriced so I low balled him for $300.


The pink Trek I'm showing is valued at much higher than asking, so that looks to be a good deal. A new seat, a screwdriver, and some new tape will have that looking great!

piconner

Can someone with a little more experience take a look at this and see if it's a good deal or I'm way out of line? I'm about to pull the trigger on it. To me, everything seem to be high quality, but I could be wrong. Looking at the wheels alone, those are $800 wheels. It's also in fantastic condition. I've been looking online for a cheap bike to figure out what I like and don't like, but I've wasted a lot of time doing so and I've gotten nowhere with it. I've decided to ditch that idea and just get the bike that I plan on using for years to come. I have committed to doing a 106 mile race in November with no riding experience and need to start trailing. This bike is listed for 2k, I offered $1,100 and he laughed in my face. He said he'll do $1,900 for it. Here are the specs:


2014 Trek Madone 5.2 (All black)
Frame size 58cm.
Groupo: SRAM Force. 11 SPD.
Crank size: 50/34 175mm
Cassette: Sram Power dome 11/28.
Shifters: Sram Double Tap.
Bars: Bontrager Carbon RXL 42CM
STEM: Bontrager XXX Carbon 90mm.
Saddle: Bontrager Carbon RXL 138.
Wheels: Mercury M5


Any advice is helpful, I just don't want to overpay, which is easy to do when you're new to something. Thank you all!

Cjpatak

I'm hoping to start building but I have no knowledge or experience. I'm going for a clean simple contemporary look along the fixed gear realm but with multiple gears. A frame up build. I'm hoping for some wisdom as to where to start, what avenues to pursue, and what to avoid. I really like the aesthetics of fixies but am more city/road inclined; so with more than 3 gears. Derailers are fine but as clean and simple as possible. A classy timeless look. I'll be applying a custom paint design. Not sure what yet but I'm going to be very picky as to the looks of the gears, the spokes, handlebars, materials, etc. Possibly some product sources and technical literature? Thanks everyone!

HTupolev

Do you like the aesthetics of fixies, or are you actually intending to ride with a fixed gear (i.e. no coasting)? Generally speaking, getting a lot of speeds out of a fixie is very difficult because complex shifting mechanisms tend to *need* some form of slack in order to function well. If you built up a modern derailleur bike but intentionally seized the freewheel, the cassette would yank on the lower chain the moment you stopped putting forward torque on the cranks, which could have exciting effects like dropping the chain and/or ripping the rear derailleur off the bike.

If you simply want a bike that doesn't have big external sprocket clusters and tensioners, internal-gear hubs are an option.

To my knowledge, the only practical way to build up a multi-speed fixed-gear bike is to use a fixed-gear internal hub, and as far as I know, the most speeds available is 3 (i.e. the Sturmey-Archer S3X hub). I'm not super familiar with these mechanisms, but they seem to have a reputation for sloppy function and fragility.

Cjpatak

Definitely intend to have derailleur system. My only intention with mentioning fixie is their typical simplicity in looks (paint, striking aspects, etc.). I'm will be looking for specific and matching components throughout without branding and such all the while aiming for simplicity and classiness. Make sense??

bmurray716

Hi, I have been mt biking for many years and have decided to delve in to road this year. I purchased a 2014 Felt Z85 51cm stock which had barely any miles on it. The only thing I have done is install a set of Campi clipless pedals and bought a pair of SIDI road shoes, as well as replaced the saddle with one that is more suited to my narrow seat bones. So far so good. I have logged a few 10-20mi rides and love it. I bike primarily on a bike path but will be venturing off onto the road as the weather improves and my distance increases.

The only thing that I think I need to do in the short term is get a longer stem as I seem to be too cramped in my cockpit even with the seat back. Easy enough to do. beside that I have slapped a few necessities on the bike (frame pump, bag with tube, multi tool, patch kit, tire levers) and of course a water bottle.

Looking forward to sharing my experiences with the community and getting to know ya'll.

jeyps11_c

Hi, just bought my first road bike. It's a very entry level bike as I don't have any clue about parts or brands when I bought it. I did some reading here and other references and know a little more than what I know a month back. I'm looking to do some upgrades on my bike (planning to join a Sprint Tri in November).

Brake calipers are generic or at least not a really known brand. Is it a good upgrade (planning to move to a Tiagra set of calipers)?

F/R hubs are Fastace but I would also want to upgrade it to a Tiagra (a local merchant is selling me a set of calipers and the hubs). Question on this, the Fastace has 24 holes and the Tiagra I think has 32. Will I need to change my rim set as well? Or I'd be able to use my existing rim set?

Thanks.

BillyD

Hi jeyps11,
You would be better off starting a new thread to ask your questions. Most of our regular posters don't look in this thread. PM me if you need help.