SlvrDragon50

Trying to remove my FSA Gossamer Crank so I can replace my bottom bracket. Few years ago my crank was falling off while riding around, and now I can't get the crank bolt to loosen at all.


It is indeed CLOCKWISE to loosen right? Or am I dumb.

trailflow1

It's counter-clockwise to loosen.

SlvrDragon50

Aghhhhh. Thanks. I'm dumb

aggiegrads

You're not dumb. The markings are misleading. The arrow on the extraction ring shows which way that ring tightens. Do not removef the extraction ring. Loosen the large hex nut until it rests against the extraction ring, then keep turning. This is what removes the arm from the spindle. No crank extraction tool needed.

HillRider

This appears to be a self-extracting crank and the "LH" (left-hand) applies to the collar with the four recessed holes. The collar is left-hand threaded to keep it from unscrewing as the fixing bolt is loosened against it. The fixing bolt is indeed standard right hand threaded and removes counterclockwise.

OP: As you loosen the fixing bolt it should turn a rotation or two and then get tight again as it comes up against the collar. Keep turning it and it will pull off the crank arm.

SlvrDragon50

All put back together once I was enlightened that the direction is indeed counter clockwise! Finally no more lateral play in my crank that's been bothering me the last 3 years! Thanks everyone!

SlvrDragon50

Okay. So I thought maybe the creaking would go away, but it isn't. I know using the FSA Gossamer crank with the Shimano BBR60 isn't a true fit, but this creaking is a little insane. Sometimes it disappears for a while, other times it comes back nonstop. When I first biked, there was a friction point when my right foot was at 3 o clock, but it's smooth the entire way around now.

Is this something I'm just going to have to live with since I have a mismatched crank/BB? Or something I should look into?

DrIsotope

Having previously run a Gossamer crankset in a Shimano BBR-60, and then changed that BB out for an FSA BB-6000... I would highly recommend ordering the BB-6000.

SlvrDragon50

Ahh... Don't tell me that I wasn't particularly happy with the stock BB6200 BB with its knocking and premature demise. Sounds like I need to get a new crank

DrIsotope

A new crankset couldn't hurt-- I haven't missed my Gossamer a single day since I replaced it. The arms are basically aluminum noodles.

SlvrDragon50

What did you end up with? I've seen a lot of cranks for sale, but I've been hesitant simply because I don't know if I should change crankarm length or not. 6800s are pretty cheap so they're the top of my list right now.

DrIsotope

I went with a Rotor 3D30, because I have one on another bike and it's fantastic. Competitive has 172.5 and 175 in no-box NOS for $152, which is cheap enough to make me want to pick one up for any potential future builds. The only drawback to PF30 cranks is that the $50-60 Wheels Mfg. BSA30 is pretty much the only BB option for English threaded bottom brackets.

SlvrDragon50

Ahhh, I remember coming across that issue. $152 is a massive discount though, and it'd still come out less than a new R8000 even with the BB. I just have trouble justifying the purchase if I'm spending most of my time riding on a trainer hah.

The FSA MegaExo bottom brackets are so expensive. I was really excited when I found out that the BBR60 would fit the Gossamer, but I hadn't heard of any complaints of creaking. The most I saw was that the bearings will wear out a bit faster.

Kodera

hey just saw this thread. I have the same situation, I have an FSA Gossamer MegaExo 1x with a R6200 BB (BSA thread), and chainring and BB are toast. From doing some looking online it seemed that the BBR60 would work as a replacement (and helps that it’s only $35 CAD compared to a new R6200).

I installed the new BBR60, and it seemed to install with no issues. I inserted the FSA Gossamer crank spindle, but here is where my issue arises: it’s a self extracting crank arm, which mean when I re-install it, I’m supposed to torque the 8mm thread to like 30-50 Nm (can’t actually find the exact number for this model).

When I try and tighten the crank arm to just 22 Nm (most my torque wrench goes), the crankset seems to squeeze onto the BB and then the cranks don’t spin freely-they become more stuck the tighter I go.

What have you guys done in this situation? Is the BBR60 not compatible with a self-extracting crankset ? Am I missing something here ?

Obviously if I just torque the crank set to like 10Nm it spins but that seems sketchy..

Also note, I have the spring washer on the left side.

any insight would be appreciated!

Troul 

Reads as if the BB is pinching the crank arms to the frame before it bottoms out.

Make sure the lateral spacing is correct comparing it to the old BB.

Kodera

I think you are correct. I bought a ruler out and measured both the old 6200 and the new BBR60, each to the outer surface edge, and the crank arm spindle length (to where it bottoms out)

The old 6200 is 87mm, compared to the new BBR60 which is 89mm. The crank arm spindle length is 88mm. So while there is only 2mm of length difference between the two BBs, the new one is actually 1mm longer than the crank arm spindle length and so the crank arm is squeezing/pinching the BB when tightening.

I wish I had known this prior to purchasing the BBR60..Is there a website to find out this kind of info? BB cross compatibility ?

Thabks again for your quick reply.

Troul 

are there spacers being used currently that are able to be removed to gain the clearance needed?