Rim Brakes on Carbon Wheels
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I think I'd like to try a pair of cf wheels, but the brake pad swapping has me less enthused (Campy pad swaps are somewhat a pain). What is it about the materials though that a pad that works with both rim materials doesn't exist?
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Yeah, I know that you veterans think that this is a redundant thread, but I am appreciating the constructive contributions here. There continue to be lots of people buying carbon rims for the first time and I'm one of them, and I would like to read what people have to say in this discussion. Pointers to older threads would also be welcome. But not too old, as developments in brake pad materials make those less helpful.
So yeah - long descents, wet/dry, emergency stopping power when something unexpected happens, yellow king vs. black prince. Do tell.
So yeah - long descents, wet/dry, emergency stopping power when something unexpected happens, yellow king vs. black prince. Do tell.
Fake news.
I've been riding several different set of carbon rims for years (all tubular, 'tho), Reynolds blue pads, mostly.
No problems- wet, dry, hot, cold, mud. Better than the Cx bike with cantis for sure.
All the cool kids have steel gravel bikes with alloy wheels & disc brakes now, so it's pretty much moot.
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Yeah, I know that you veterans think that this is a redundant thread, but I am appreciating the constructive contributions here. There continue to be lots of people buying carbon rims for the first time and I'm one of them, and I would like to read what people have to say in this discussion. Pointers to older threads would also be welcome. But not too old, as developments in brake pad materials make those less helpful.
So yeah - long descents, wet/dry, emergency stopping power when something unexpected happens, yellow king vs. black prince. Do tell.
So yeah - long descents, wet/dry, emergency stopping power when something unexpected happens, yellow king vs. black prince. Do tell.
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Blue Reynolds pads stop alloy wheels just fine. The switch is primarily to protect the carbon rims from any metal that gets embedded in the pads from the alloy set.
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If you are above 200lbs by a good amount, all carbon wheels might not be the best choice. At those weights, bike equipment is not really designed for you. Things like skill definitely have a lot to do with equipment choice, some guys just don’t brake that much on a descent. , but if you are not that guy, go with aluminum brake tracks.
#40
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It has a lot to do with the riders' weight and riding style.
For example, I climbed ~400k ft every year and I was able to used the same brake pad for two years. I don't have to brake a lot when the average grade less than 8%. I do become extremely uncomfortable when the grade exceeds 10% (since you're also located in SoCal, such as Baldy Ski Lift, Laguna Beach Sisters, PV Big One/Crown View, Newport Beach Ridge Park/Vista Ridge....).
For example, I climbed ~400k ft every year and I was able to used the same brake pad for two years. I don't have to brake a lot when the average grade less than 8%. I do become extremely uncomfortable when the grade exceeds 10% (since you're also located in SoCal, such as Baldy Ski Lift, Laguna Beach Sisters, PV Big One/Crown View, Newport Beach Ridge Park/Vista Ridge....).
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Rim brakes....yes
Alloy clinchers...yes
Alloy tubulars...yes
Carbon tubulars...yes
Carbon clinchers...nah
Disk brakes...nah
But I wanna try wood tubulars
Alloy clinchers...yes
Alloy tubulars...yes
Carbon tubulars...yes
Carbon clinchers...nah
Disk brakes...nah
But I wanna try wood tubulars
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Thinking of buying a road bike with rim brakes and carbon wheels? Do you already have a road bike with rim brakes and you want to switch from alloy to carbon wheels? Stop and consider the following:
Bikes are lousy at stopping quickly at speed or steep descent no matter what the situation is. But you have rim brakes on your current bike and you want to go from alloy to carbon wheels you may regret the choice when you try to make descents that require slow speeds down steep descents. The difference as I found about between carbon and alloy after switching is greater than I had participated. (The heavier you are the greater difference with carbon than alloy.)
The bottom line the carbon wheels are much less effective than alloy for breaking the situations I describe
Many carbon wheels come with a braking track on the wheels for a better grip by the brake pads. Those wear out in a month or so.
Anyway, a factor to consider if you are considering going from alloy to carbon for whatever reason.
Bikes are lousy at stopping quickly at speed or steep descent no matter what the situation is. But you have rim brakes on your current bike and you want to go from alloy to carbon wheels you may regret the choice when you try to make descents that require slow speeds down steep descents. The difference as I found about between carbon and alloy after switching is greater than I had participated. (The heavier you are the greater difference with carbon than alloy.)
The bottom line the carbon wheels are much less effective than alloy for breaking the situations I describe
Many carbon wheels come with a braking track on the wheels for a better grip by the brake pads. Those wear out in a month or so.
Anyway, a factor to consider if you are considering going from alloy to carbon for whatever reason.
Last Sat another tandem, a mag one, had the same setup. He did the same on his Ti tandem, his Carbon and that mag (yea ~ $30K in tandem running rim brakes)
Well setup rim brakes in DRY conditions are fine. They are preferred by some.
I buy a lot of stuff for junior. MTB, cx is disc. Road is rim brake. We think it works better. BTW - he is going on season 6 with the same carbon rims.
If you ride in wet, dirt rim brakes can be an issue, otherwise not.
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What this guy says...he is a complete beast up GMR. I know, I was riding hard just trying to keep within sight of him, up and down.
Last edited by eja_ bottecchia; 05-23-19 at 10:31 PM.
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#46
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Yeah, I know that you veterans think that this is a redundant thread, but I am appreciating the constructive contributions here. There continue to be lots of people buying carbon rims for the first time and I'm one of them, and I would like to read what people have to say in this discussion. Pointers to older threads would also be welcome.
All I stated was that carbon wheels with rim brakes, (and proper pads), do not stop as well as alloy wheels and with rim brakes and proper pads. Also, the carbon wheels cannot withstand the same degree of temperature build up as that alloy wheels can, although this last point isn't a factor for me as I am never riding in a situation that requires an extended heavy use by my rim brakes.
The real world situation where I notice the difference between my alloy wheels and carbon wheels is on steep technical descents and or those that have very steep double-digit grades combined with road design that mandate heavier braking than normally required. (Best example is a 1.3 mile descent that on one mile of it the grade is 12-14 percent with three extremely sharp turns. On the other had a nearly five-mile descent I don't break at all except in one double S blind turn that's about 7 percent.
Last edited by BengalCat; 05-25-19 at 09:38 PM.
#47
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No kidding, eh?
Geez...my Mad Fibers, +10,000 km's later, no issues - rolls true, zero tension loss. No appreciable wear on the brake track. From the wet Pacific Northwest. Lots of descents. Even did Haleakala. Bonus that it's 1043g.
Tip: buy reputable quality carbon wheels, to the degree your wallet can afford it.
Geez...my Mad Fibers, +10,000 km's later, no issues - rolls true, zero tension loss. No appreciable wear on the brake track. From the wet Pacific Northwest. Lots of descents. Even did Haleakala. Bonus that it's 1043g.
Tip: buy reputable quality carbon wheels, to the degree your wallet can afford it.
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No kidding, eh?
Geez...my Mad Fibers, +10,000 km's later, no issues - rolls true, zero tension loss. No appreciable wear on the brake track. From the wet Pacific Northwest. Lots of descents. Even did Haleakala. Bonus that it's 1043g.
Tip: buy reputable quality carbon wheels, to the degree your wallet can afford it.
Geez...my Mad Fibers, +10,000 km's later, no issues - rolls true, zero tension loss. No appreciable wear on the brake track. From the wet Pacific Northwest. Lots of descents. Even did Haleakala. Bonus that it's 1043g.
Tip: buy reputable quality carbon wheels, to the degree your wallet can afford it.
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No kidding, eh?
Geez...my Mad Fibers, +10,000 km's later, no issues - rolls true, zero tension loss. No appreciable wear on the brake track. From the wet Pacific Northwest. Lots of descents. Even did Haleakala. Bonus that it's 1043g.
Tip: buy reputable quality carbon wheels, to the degree your wallet can afford it.
Geez...my Mad Fibers, +10,000 km's later, no issues - rolls true, zero tension loss. No appreciable wear on the brake track. From the wet Pacific Northwest. Lots of descents. Even did Haleakala. Bonus that it's 1043g.
Tip: buy reputable quality carbon wheels, to the degree your wallet can afford it.