prioritizing on a budget
#26
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3.why float should I choose on the shoe?
4. is a bike fit smart investment to get in a fitness bike? I thought they are more for road
5. lastly what is a spd (2 clip) pedal and shoe combo you can recommend for under 200 dollars?
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My bike: Trek FX 3
Reason for riding: mental relaxation, fitness and just joy of exploring things by bike instead of car
no I have not had a bike fit
i want to ride 10-20 miles usually do 10-12
i judge how hard I ride through heart rate monitor on a watch , currently
right now I can spare 200usd
Reason for riding: mental relaxation, fitness and just joy of exploring things by bike instead of car
no I have not had a bike fit
i want to ride 10-20 miles usually do 10-12
i judge how hard I ride through heart rate monitor on a watch , currently
right now I can spare 200usd
Nonsense.
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#28
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If your foot in that "pedaling" experiment wanders through an arc, you may want to look at pedals with more free float. The late, lamented Speedplay Frog pedal had mammoth free float. Current pedals include Time ATAC or Crank Brothers.
Dang it, you made me spit my coffee out! New thread time: How do I clean up my keyboard after I spit over it reading bikeforums?
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Based on what the OP posted, and assuming he is a beginning rider, I would get an inexpensive cyclo computer first. I would skip the shoes, pedals and power meter until the OP determined how much he was into cycling. If OP really gets into it, then save your money for those things. By then you may want to upgrade you bike too.
I also going to assume you already bought safety equipment, lights etc. Otherwise, I'd say that would be the first priority.
I also going to assume you already bought safety equipment, lights etc. Otherwise, I'd say that would be the first priority.
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#30
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For the riding you describe, none of the above. Unless you just want to spend money to have such things. And, other than the sensors, $200 will not get you decent pedals and shoes or a power meter. $300 will get you decent shoes and clipless pedals. $300 minimum will get you a decent power meter.
Spend $65 on a QuadLock phone mount, and download the free MapMyRide app or similar. That will give you all the ride info you will probably need. I used it for quite a while until I wanted to work to ramp up my speed, distance, and technique, and started multi-hour rides.
Unless you are racing, a "professional bike fit" is probably a waste of money. You can learn about bike fit, and do all of the adjustments yourself. It's not that hard.
Spend the other $135 on something fun, and makes you smile when you ride.
Spend $65 on a QuadLock phone mount, and download the free MapMyRide app or similar. That will give you all the ride info you will probably need. I used it for quite a while until I wanted to work to ramp up my speed, distance, and technique, and started multi-hour rides.
Unless you are racing, a "professional bike fit" is probably a waste of money. You can learn about bike fit, and do all of the adjustments yourself. It's not that hard.
Spend the other $135 on something fun, and makes you smile when you ride.
#31
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For the riding you describe, none of the above. Unless you just want to spend money to have such things. And, other than the sensors, $200 will not get you decent pedals and shoes or a power meter. $300 will get you decent shoes and clipless pedals. $300 minimum will get you a decent power meter.
Spend $65 on a QuadLock phone mount, and download the free MapMyRide app or similar. That will give you all the ride info you will probably need. I used it for quite a while until I wanted to work to ramp up my speed, distance, and technique, and started multi-hour rides.
Spend $65 on a QuadLock phone mount, and download the free MapMyRide app or similar. That will give you all the ride info you will probably need. I used it for quite a while until I wanted to work to ramp up my speed, distance, and technique, and started multi-hour rides.
Distance, speed, and cadence you can get with a $50-60 wired cyclometer. Cheaper than your phone mount.
At least for OP's desires, perfect is the enemy of good enough.
#32
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I think I'll revise my opinion on priorites to the following:
Pinned platform pedals, a small, cheap bike computer for speed and distance, and some cheap shoes you like to walk around it. Use the rest for a nice cycling jacket, shorts, or whatever.
Pinned platform pedals, a small, cheap bike computer for speed and distance, and some cheap shoes you like to walk around it. Use the rest for a nice cycling jacket, shorts, or whatever.
#34
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OK, this got me curious (just how much HAVE prices gone up??). REI, not the cheapest place to buy things, has 15 men's MTB shoes at or under $100 (arbitrary limit). Shimano M540 pedals are $80. Even with sales tax, less than $200.
Distance, speed, and cadence you can get with a $50-60 wired cyclometer. Cheaper than your phone mount.
At least for OP's desires, perfect is the enemy of good enough.
Distance, speed, and cadence you can get with a $50-60 wired cyclometer. Cheaper than your phone mount.
At least for OP's desires, perfect is the enemy of good enough.
Yes, you can get wired computers pretty cheaply, but then you have the wires wrapped around your tubes everywhere and magnets on the spokes and all that goes with that. For $300 you can get a older new Garmin with wireless sensors that works very well, but just doesn't have the bells and whistles of the newer models.
#35
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2. Clipless pedals and shoes. They do nothing for power, but are more comfortable especially on long rides.
3. Speed and cadence sensor. Speed doesn't matter. You can count out a cadence if you're not pedaling fast enough.
#36
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Well, you are right on the MTB gear, but he has a street bike. I know that MTB gear can be used on the FX3, but road gear would be a better fit for the types of rides the OP does.
Yes, you can get wired computers pretty cheaply, but then you have the wires wrapped around your tubes everywhere and magnets on the spokes and all that goes with that. For $300 you can get a older new Garmin with wireless sensors that works very well, but just doesn't have the bells and whistles of the newer models.
Yes, you can get wired computers pretty cheaply, but then you have the wires wrapped around your tubes everywhere and magnets on the spokes and all that goes with that. For $300 you can get a older new Garmin with wireless sensors that works very well, but just doesn't have the bells and whistles of the newer models.
On a budget, you can also do much better with a refurbished Garmin. I paid ~$180 for the last Edge 800 I bought, because the 810 software crashed on roundabouts and I didn't like how newer models eliminated the programmable odometer which I use for tracking replacement intervals.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 11-23-20 at 12:27 PM.
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If your goal is to ride 10-20 miles on a Trek 3 , I would think all you would need is a bike ,water, and a smile. Save your funds and but the wife a small gift. Happy wife= happy life. lol
#38
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The most I'd get would be a cheap cyclocomputer with a speed sensor. That way, you'll know how far you've gone, and how fast. If you can get a cadence sensor as part of the package, go ahead! But for what you want, it's not necessary. Alternatively, the bike mount for your iPhone, and leave the Apple Watch at home.
Clipless pedals and the shoes to go with them are not important yet, for the riding you want to do. Power meter, even less so.
If you start monitoring your speed and distance, you might find yourself wanting go farther, and faster. You may outgrow the FX3 and want something faster, and that's when I'd start thinking about clipless pedals.
As far as a bike fit goes, unless you have specific complaints, like your knees hurt, or you shoulders, or you hands go numb, I'd hold off till you're routinely doing >20 miles at a time. For me, the point when issues started to manifest was in the 30-40 mile range - when I was on the bike >2 hours. By that time your body will have adapted to cycling a bit, and your form will be more settled.
Clipless pedals and the shoes to go with them are not important yet, for the riding you want to do. Power meter, even less so.
If you start monitoring your speed and distance, you might find yourself wanting go farther, and faster. You may outgrow the FX3 and want something faster, and that's when I'd start thinking about clipless pedals.
As far as a bike fit goes, unless you have specific complaints, like your knees hurt, or you shoulders, or you hands go numb, I'd hold off till you're routinely doing >20 miles at a time. For me, the point when issues started to manifest was in the 30-40 mile range - when I was on the bike >2 hours. By that time your body will have adapted to cycling a bit, and your form will be more settled.
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