Weird and ugly fixed gear/SS mods
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Weird and ugly fixed gear/SS mods
What are the weirdest and ugliest mods that are on fixed gear/SS bikes that you own. Don't put any ugly fixifoo mods here, this thread is only for nontraditional mods. This thread is for single speed bikes as well, including ones with multiple gears but don't shift. Only put bikes that you own on this thread. This thread is open for cheap and expensive mods alike. And when I say ugly, I mean that the mod looks good to you, but to others not so much. If you have a bike that is either fixed gear or SS, post it, we all love to see your ideas.
Last edited by Off piste pista; 10-27-18 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Editing
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I have been converting an old schwinn out of found parts. Rat rod fixed gear.
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aire díthrub
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None. Because why would I do a modification to my own bike that I think is weird or ugly, and leave it that way?
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On most of my bikes, the weirdest and ugliest mod is the rider.
*Dangit, wasn't paying attention and now I see 20t beat me to this joke.
*Dangit, wasn't paying attention and now I see 20t beat me to this joke.
Last edited by j_e_r_e_m_y; 10-24-18 at 07:00 AM. Reason: I'm lame
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i just browse this section for ideas. i guess the weird thing about my single speed project is i started with a fuji/marlboro folding mountain bike. 26" 18sp converted to 700 single speed with coaster brake. trying to keep an eye out for another couple of the same frame for a few other simpler drive train ideas. 3speed coaster brake (already working on this one. need my hubs built into 700 rims), and a two speed kick back keeping the original sized 26" wheels. kind of a commuter arsenal idea.
edit. the only pic i have from a long while back. never took a pic of the single speed so this is actually the three speed without the 700 rim conversion, using 26x1 3/8" tires/wheels. the shifter is kinda hidden under the seat (not sure if it's actually on there in this pic). the prices on these frames went kind of crazy while i was considering buying more, but like i said, i'm hoping to find at least another two.
edit. the only pic i have from a long while back. never took a pic of the single speed so this is actually the three speed without the 700 rim conversion, using 26x1 3/8" tires/wheels. the shifter is kinda hidden under the seat (not sure if it's actually on there in this pic). the prices on these frames went kind of crazy while i was considering buying more, but like i said, i'm hoping to find at least another two.
Last edited by Philphine; 10-26-18 at 07:58 PM.
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Clark W. Griswold
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I love weird stuff, beauty is in the eye of the beholder though. I prefer my bikes to look as good as possible though for my first dynamo routing I did use zip ties and now have realized the Di2 wire covers from Shimango work a lot better and are much cleaner or my steel bikes (which is most of the fleet) I could potentially drill, baby, drill.
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My breakthrough in 1995 - the stem! I"d been riding my Mooney with its 130 Cinelli slammed, OK,not great fit. Had a series of slightly smaller frames for my fix gear, OK w/ the stem slammed. Picked up a largish Miyata 610 for the next fix gear frame. Turing frame, laid back angles, not so long top tube. Painful to climb! I could feel much of my trunk going anaerobic because my torso was so cramped. So I sketched up the Miyata and stem, the Mooney and my old Fuji Pro racing bike (which fit like a dream). The handlebar tops were in quite different places, The Fuji's bars were much lower than the Miyata and further forward than the Mooney.
It was going to take an unusual stem to get the low position of the Fuji and I had been running a Zzipper fairing form y commute and they really do well on bars that are high and forward, so I decided to go forward big time! Figured the key element was my shoulder location. Get this right and my torso will be properly stretched out. So I sketched in my shoulders on the drawing. Using a compass, drew an circle around my shoulders going through the Fuji handlebar tops. Drew a line forward along the Miyata stem. Sketched in a new stem going to that intersection. Measured it. 7". 178 mm. Had it built. (We rounded off to 180.)
Wow! First ride was 75 miles through the hills north of Seattle. I could breath! The fix gear climbs felt great! (And my thighs never hit the handlebars. Cool!) That lead to another 180, currently waiting for its next ride, a -22 degree 175 (basically the same reach, just a little more stylish), boosting the Mooney to a -27 155 (huge improvement, though the Mooney now sports a -17 140 with much longer, deeper track bars and huge V-brake hoods). My customs were built to get the bars along that same line using stock stems, 120, 130 and 135.
So my fix gears now sport a sexy, black painted steel quill of -22 175 and a less sexy black painted -17 140 (that will become Nitto Pearle as soon as I find a 26.0). That sexy black quill is on my winter/rain/city fix gear; as close to a beater as I have. And every time I get on, its like "oh yeah, another great ride!".
Discovering the Nitto Pearls has normalized the looks of my bikes a little. Stock 140s. I've heard that 140 Cinellis exist, but seems that hens' teeth are a lot more common. I've never seen one and very few 135s. I feel lucky to own that 135.
If you could see my arms, you would notice quickly that a 180 stem is simply in proper proportion.
Ben
It was going to take an unusual stem to get the low position of the Fuji and I had been running a Zzipper fairing form y commute and they really do well on bars that are high and forward, so I decided to go forward big time! Figured the key element was my shoulder location. Get this right and my torso will be properly stretched out. So I sketched in my shoulders on the drawing. Using a compass, drew an circle around my shoulders going through the Fuji handlebar tops. Drew a line forward along the Miyata stem. Sketched in a new stem going to that intersection. Measured it. 7". 178 mm. Had it built. (We rounded off to 180.)
Wow! First ride was 75 miles through the hills north of Seattle. I could breath! The fix gear climbs felt great! (And my thighs never hit the handlebars. Cool!) That lead to another 180, currently waiting for its next ride, a -22 degree 175 (basically the same reach, just a little more stylish), boosting the Mooney to a -27 155 (huge improvement, though the Mooney now sports a -17 140 with much longer, deeper track bars and huge V-brake hoods). My customs were built to get the bars along that same line using stock stems, 120, 130 and 135.
So my fix gears now sport a sexy, black painted steel quill of -22 175 and a less sexy black painted -17 140 (that will become Nitto Pearle as soon as I find a 26.0). That sexy black quill is on my winter/rain/city fix gear; as close to a beater as I have. And every time I get on, its like "oh yeah, another great ride!".
Discovering the Nitto Pearls has normalized the looks of my bikes a little. Stock 140s. I've heard that 140 Cinellis exist, but seems that hens' teeth are a lot more common. I've never seen one and very few 135s. I feel lucky to own that 135.
If you could see my arms, you would notice quickly that a 180 stem is simply in proper proportion.
Ben
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My old conversion before I painted it a better color, gave to my partner and it got stolen. Enjoy the hateration.
Last edited by Butthash; 10-24-18 at 03:37 PM.
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I build weird and sometimes ugly bikes that I love and buy parts for all the time, this is because on f***s are given about performance really.
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I know of a lot of fixed gear/SS bikes with derailleurs as chain tensioners. Including my old mountain bike.
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1988 trek 800 mountain track that I got when I was 10. It is too small now, so I made a dirt jumper out of it. Biopace 3x crankset/chainrings, no front derailleur, acera rear derailleur with no cables, 16 tooth single speed cog and 11, 12, and 13 tooth chain rings as spacers mish mash of other parts frame is ugly as sin, so much scratches and dings.
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My Schwinn fixed gear that I am building. It is going great!
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At my bike co-op, I saw a 1980s mountain bike with a rear track bike wheel and a front mountain bike wheel. It has duper narrow bars with 1 front brake. $50 and just needs tubes!
After I build my Schwinn up, I am planning to make a fixed gear rigid mountain bike with the stock 3x chainrings up front and a huge ass cog in the back. It will have 70s era drop bars with 70s era saftey levers.
After I build my Schwinn up, I am planning to make a fixed gear rigid mountain bike with the stock 3x chainrings up front and a huge ass cog in the back. It will have 70s era drop bars with 70s era saftey levers.
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They look like they serve the same purpose as bullhorns. But, your right for doing this because bullhorns aren't as wide.
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The bike co op I go to is like this but by 10x. It has old frames hanging everywhere and parts in buckets. Handlebars and forks are in racks. And they have this huge shed type building with a bunch of old bikes that you can fix.
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Not that good quality, but I found this old pic of a 2012 mongoose girder from Walmart. It was the first cheap kids bike with a disk brake. But look at that frame tho. :0 I got it for $20 at the same bike co op before it moved and it only had a little problem with the brake. I changed the seat, grips, rear tire, removed the chain guard, and I added 2 non functioning lights to the front. The main weird part is the frame. I used to put water bottles and magazines in between it.
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I should build a fixed gear mountain bike with drop bars. Probably gonna be a frankenbike of sorts.
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My trek 800 with the weird gears. Now a dirt jumper of sorts.