DreamRider85

I went ahead and tested the 1.2 56 inch Madone. Now the ALR Armonda is a much better bike to me. It's lighter, faster, turns easier, and I feel less shock. I'm most likely going to get it.

I just need to know a few more things. When buying my first road bike, what other equipment will I need to invest in right away? I have a helmet. And of course the shoes and shorts are important. But what kind of tools will I need? Will I need spare tubes? A pump right? I'm just trying to get a complete checklist and take note of everything I will need before purchasing.

Also, how often do you flip down the stem?

rpenmanparker 

A joker in our midst. I recommend flipping the stem just like voting: early and often.

cicatrize

56 cm* Inches are for mountain bikes.

Yes, you need spare tubes. You should also have a pump or co2, tire levers, water bottle and cage. It's also good to have a multi-tool of some sort on you just in case. It's come in handy for me on more than one occasion. Those are the basics.

rpenmanparker 

A bike computer for speed and possibly cadence. Water bottles and cages. A bag for your road tools either for your jersey or behind the saddle. You need a floor pump. Decide between a mini-pump and CO2 for repairs on the road. Spare tubes. Patch kit. Multi-tool. Maybe a spoke wrench. Other folks will chime in with more ideas.

Alias530

Armonda?

PaulRivers

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I don't think I'm going out on a limb here to say that's not actually a bike, lol...

(And before someone accuses me of nitpicking over a typo, I'm honestly puzzled at what bike the OP is actually referring to.)

12strings

...emonda?

DreamRider85

Oh I'm sorry guys. It's the Emonda. I didn't know. There is no ''Armonda.''

DreamRider85

Is it a must to have a bike stand? Otherwise it could fall.

Also, the 54 was way too small and the 58 was too big. 56 is right. Not 36 obviously. When I said 36 the guy laughed at store. However, I did notice some back discomfort and I normally don't have back pain. Is this just getting used to the bike or getting conditioned more/core strength? Or is it adjusting it... I'm thinking it's a combo of all but I may need to get it adjusted. i know 56 is right though. I have a longer torso, shorter legs. So what should I have them do or what should I do?

Is flipping stem bad for back or good for back.

One last thing. The road bike is faster than mount bike but on the road, it's such a better workout. I'm using so much effort even though the ride is smoother. It's harder but easier at the same time. This is not a complaint, this is actually relief because now I know I'll be getting a more challenging and funner workout and smoother ride on the road.

Willbird

I carry co2,a mini pump, a patch kit, and a spare tube.

Mini tool and tire levers.

DreamRider85

Do you use a stand? thanks

cicatrize

I've never seen a self-respecting road cycling "enthusiast" use a kickstand, which is what I think you're asking. I guess if you want to put one on, you can, but people don't usually put those on road bikes.

StanSeven

If you start doing work on the bike yourself later, they are helpful. But it's not necessary starting out, especially with a new bike when the only thing you'll need to do is lube the chain.

trailflow1

Buy yourself some courage,dedication,commitment and passion + 50 tubs of butt cream.

Willbird

NO kick stand if that is what you mean. One to work on the bike yes.

Cheap one from Amazon. It's weak point is that the bike wants to rotate if it is unbalanced. I think if I roughed up the tube attached to the seatpost clamp it would stop that.

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Repai...9552198&sr=1-4

bassjones

If you don't already have a good floor pump, get one. You'll want to air your tires up before EVERY ride. Depending where you're comfortable and what tires you have, anywhere from 85 PSI to 120 PSI or more. Then you'll want a couple of spare tubes, multi-tool, tire levers and either a CO2 or mini-pump for the ride. Bottle cages and bottles, probably a seat bag for the tire and repair stuff, gloves, shorts, jerseys, pedals and shoes. Don't flip the stem right away. It will take you a while to get adjusted to the new riding position as it is. If you're having low back pain, you may need a shorter stem and/or a bit more rise for now.

rpenmanparker 

Enthusiast level road bikes and above are usually suspended from a wall or a ceiling for storage. There are various devices to accomplish this. Leaned against a wall during a rest stop. Or sometimes leaned against a tall curb with the curbside crank arm rotated backwards until the pedal touches the curb. That will usually hold the bike upright. No kick-stands.

Tundra_Man 

Lots of good suggestions. Here's my list, which duplicates some of the above. These are things I think you'd want to budget for right off the bat. Other accessories are nice but you can get them down the road:

• Pedals - I'm assuming none come with the bike.
• Shoes - If you're going clipless.
• Floor pump - Pumping up at home before every ride.
• Bottle of chain lube - You'll need this every 150 or so miles.
• Rear blinky/front headlamp - I buy the set. The rear blinky and front mount stay permanently attached to the bike. The front headlight only gets clicked in place when/if needed.
• Computer - I like simple computers with speed/odometer/clock. The other features I don't use that often.
• Under seat bag - To store the following items:
• Spare tube - I carry a tube and swap it if I have a flat, then worry about patching when I'm back at home. Patch kits are smaller if you'd rather try and patch on the road.
• Tire levers - No sense having a spare tube if you can't get the tire off.
• CO2/mini pump - No sense getting the tire off if you can't inflate the new tube.
• Small screwdriver - For minor drivetrain adjustments. I don't use mine very often but it's the size of a pen so it doesn't take up much room in the bag.
• Allen wrenches - Metric, 5mm and smaller. No need for a huge set. A multi-tool would also work but the ones I've looked at actually weigh more than my mini allen wrench set I bought at Menards.
• Small Rag - Wiping your hands after changing a tire and wrapping around CO2 cartridges when inflating. I use an old sock and put my spare tube inside of it to protect the tube from the other stuff jammed in my bag.

Dan333SP

If you mean workstand to do things like clean your chain or pump your tires, no, you don't need one, especially given that you are looking at a new bike. I've made it through many years of road riding without a stand, including some more complex operations like pulling cranks, repacking rear hubs, ect. You can do 90% of whatever may need to be done by just flipping the bike upside down on the floor. Eventually I would like one for convenience, but it's not worth the money to avoid a tiny bit of hassle.

If you mean kickstand, then no, definitely don't need that either.

If your stem is already angled up and it is raised up from the top of your steerer tube with spacers, then you shouldn't flip it as you are apparently already experiencing back pain. Generally, back pain is alleviated by riding in a more upright position. The lower you make your position, the more strain it'll put on your back. If you want to get low and not have pain, do more core work and/or get a professional fitting. You might also just need to ride a lot since you're new and your body hasn't adapted to the positioning very well.

ColaJacket

Safety Needs:
- Helmet (Certified CPSC; MIPS certificationis optional, soon it may be recommended)
- Gloves (for unexpected stops, but also for comfort)
- Tire repair kit (Seat Bag; Patch Kit; Tire Levers; Multi-Tool; Extra Tube(s))
- Water Bottle(s) / Cage(s)
- Floor Pump (for home use w/ pressure gauge)
- Portable Pump (either mini-pump or CO2 pump)
- Pedals (some bikes come w/o pedals)


Comfort Needs:
- Bike Short(s)/Bib(s) (Need the chamois for comfort)


Safety Wants:
- Sunglasses (to protect your eyes while cycling)
- Bell/Noise making device (Required in some areas; Check your local laws.)
- Mirror (To see those sneaky Prius's sneaking up on you)
- Lock (for when you stop; Small or U-Lock)


Nighttime Needs:
- Lights
- Extra reflectors
- Safety vest w/ reflectors


Performance Wants:
- Clipless Pedals
- Clipless Shoes
- Jersey(s) (wicking helps with comfort and performance)
- Sock(s) (wicking helps with comfort and performance)
- Cycling Computer (Smartphone can track rides; Strava / MapMyRide seem to be the most popular free apps, but have pay upgrades)
- Computer/Smartphone mount (I have Nite Ize HandleBand Universal Smartphone Bar Mount)
- Heart Rate Monitor
- Cadence Monitor
- Power Monitor


Comfort Wants:
- New Seat (The seat you get with the bike may be fine, but people often have to upgrade them if they riding 20+ miles at a time.)
- Seat Mud Flap
- Camelback (water backpack)
- Leg Warmers
- Rain Jacket


Commuting Wants:
- Fenders
- Rear Rack (Pannier)


Maintenance Wants:
- Chain lube
- Inexpensive small brushes to clean drive train
- P-handled hex wrenches, start with 4 mm, 5 mm, and 6 mm, or get complete set
- Pedal wrench.
- Anti-seize compound for metal. Carbon compound for seat posts and such.
- Socket and bit set.
- Plastic/Latex gloves (Keeps your hands clean during maintenance)
- Clean wipes (In case your hands or bike gets dirty)
- Bike Stand


Travel Wants:
- Trunk Bike Rack


Nutrition
- Gels
- Osmo (Prehydration / Recovery)
- Skratch
- Nuun

lkngro

Pedals, shoes, a portable pump that you can either attach to your frame or put in your pocket, bottles and cages, patch kit, tire levers, extra tube(s), and a saddle bag to put it all in. That's all you really *need*.

I don't ride with gloves, but that's just preference. I also don't have a computer. I track my mileage with Strava on my phone and I don't care about cadence or power data. If you're going to be riding more than ~20 miles at a time, definitely get padded (chamois) shorts. Also a proper cycling jersey is nice to have because you can put stuff in the back pockets (food, phone, wallet, keys, stuff that you want to have easier access to than the stuff in your saddle bag). Sunglasses are also recommended to protect your eyes.

DreamRider85

So would you say that a little back pain may come more from the height of the position versus the bike itself? (Granted it is the right length). When I buy do I tell him to raise it a little? It's weird because the first time I tested there wasn't any back pain. 2nd time there was. Now it did feel like the seat was just a tad higher, but not sure.

DreamRider85

Alright, so I'm getting a good idea. I'm gonna go to the bike shop today and hoping to pick up my first rode bike. But how important is bottle of chain lube and what do you do?

So far, I wrote down floor pump, spare tubes, mulit tool, tire levers, mini or co2 pump, and patch kit

f4rrest

Get cycling shorts with a chamois pad. Your crotch will thank you.

Dan333SP

Back pain is caused by bad positioning on the bike or poor core/back strength. Your positioning on any bike can be adjusted in a pretty wide range, so I don't think it's right to say that a certain bike causes back pain. Like I said, generally you can reduce it by raising your hand position on the bike by adding spacers below the stem and flipping the stem up (basically opening up your hip angle), maybe also a shorter stem. You might want to invest in a fitting with a professional fitter. Opinions here are mixed, and I've managed to ride successfully for years without one, but I also tinkered with everything about my position virtually endlessly before I was happy, and I still have some niggling issues on longer rides. I think it's probably worth the $$ for a newbie to have a fitter walk them through all the possible changes and what effect they can have on your body/pains.