highsis

Hello, I'm new to the community and new to the world of road bikes.


2015 Norco Valence Carbon 105 Endurance road bic ycle


I initially chose Trek, but later I found a Norco road bike with carbon frame and Shimano 105 drivetrain with much cheaper price than the same tier bikes from other brands. However, there is saying you get what you pay for plus the fact I have no clue about bikes makes me hesitant to spend 1950 CAD (I'm Canadian) without consulting first. The bike itself is 1700 CAD with tax, the shipping quote is 150, and assembly fee is probably around 100.

I would really appreciate it if you guys could answer some questions for me.


1. What size? There are two sizes available, 53 and 55.5. The detailed geometry can be seen on the link above.

53 has ST length of 542.5, and TT length of 480.
55.5 has ST length of 560, and TT length of 510.

I think 53 would be a better fit due to my rather short legs but I'm not an expert.



2. The geometry!

This is an endurance geometry according to the maker. I prefer competition type since I value speed above all, but this bike is the only carbon + shimano 105 in my price range.

Seat tube seems rather short and the sloping is very steep from what I see in the picture. From what I've heard, steep slopping = slower speed due to higher air resistance because you can't lower your body as much as in non-sloping geometry; is it true?

I'm going to ride the bike in mostly plain road in a city. Would there be a difference in speed compared to traditional(non-sloping) design?



3. Lastly, is it worth 1950 CAD?

It seems relatively cheap for a carbon bike + shimano 105 drivetrain.

53 model weights 8.6kg (18.97lb) without pedals.

Unfortunately I have no other knowledge about bike parts to judge how good/bad this bike is. Also this news (https://www.norco.com/pub/ftr/Norco-%...ster%20-EN.pdf) of Norco frame recalling worries me a bit.




I'm buying this bike from Eastern Canada to be shipped to western coast, so I have to make my decision carefully. I'm a student here in Vancouver and I've saved months of my part-time pays to buy this. Still, I prefer buying a bike in Canada because I have bad experience with border customs and refund process when I bought stuffs from US.

I would really appreciate your words of advice.

Thanks!




Bike Spec:


Frameset
Frame

Valence Mid-Modulus Carbon
Fork

Valence Mid-Modulus Full Carbon
Wheels
Rims

Shimano WH-RS010 - Black
Tires

Continental Ultra Sport II - 25c
Tubes

Presta Valve - 48mm valve
Front Hub

Shimano WH-RS010 - Black
Rear Hub

Shimano WH-RS010 - Black
Spokes/Nipples

Shimano WH-RS010 - Black
Drivetrain
Shifter Front

Shimano 105 ST-5800 11spd - Black
Shifter Rear

Shimano 105 ST-5800 11spd - Black
Shifter Casing

Shift Housing - White
Front Derailleur

Shimano 105 FD-5800 11spd - Black
Rear Derailleur

Shimano 105 RD-5800-GS 11spd - Black
Cassette

Shimano 105 CS-5800 11-32T 11 speed
Crankset

Shimano FC-RS500 50/34T 11spd - Black
Bottom Bracket

Shimano SM-BB71 Pressfit BB86
Pedals

N/A
Chain

Shimano CN-HG600-11 11speed
Chain Tensioner

N/A
Components
Seat Post

Norco Composite 27.2 - UD Carbon w/Green
Seat Post Clamp

Alloy - Black
Saddle

Norco Sport - Black
Headset

Cane Creek 10-Series w/9mm Top Cover
Headset Spacer

2x10mm Matte UD Carbon / 1x5mm Alloy Grey
Top Cap

Alloy w/Norco Logo - Dark Grey
Stem

Norco - Black w/Green
Handlebar

Ritchey Comp Curve - Black
Grips

Norco UltraComfort w/Vex Gel - Black
Front Brake

Tektro R525 - Black
Rear Brake

Tektro R525 - Black
Brake Levers

Shimano 105 ST-5800 - Black w/Black Hoods
Brake Cable Casing

Brake Housing - Black
Specifications subject to change without notice.

jsigone

go to your bike shop and ride as many bikes as you can. in a few different sizes as well... have fun

cicatrize

Great components and tires, which for the price, leads me to believe the frame is most likely low quality carbon, at under 1000g. I can't be sure, of course, but that seems like a really low price for what you get.

milkbaby

You're best off going to a few different local bicycle shops and trying out bikes. It sounds like you can save money by buying online and having a bicycle shipped, but if you make the wrong decision, that is $2000 down the drain, so it's a false economy. You can spend less on a perfectly good bicycle that will suit your needs, even if you plan to start bicycle racing. In fact, there is often the argument that it's better to have a less expensive bike to race so it's less painful to replace when you crash it and destroy it. There are actually many people who train on their expensive bicycle and race their cheap bicycle.

99.99999% of how fast a bicycle will go is the capability of the rider. This statistic has been proven.

winston63 

I agree with jsigone: ride some bikes to get a sense of what feels right for you.

That said, there's nothing wrong with Norco road bikes, and they do tend to offer a bit more bang for the buck than what you'll get from Trek or Specialized. I don't own one, but I know a few riders who do ride Norco Valence and they are pretty happy with their bikes. Giant is another company that tends to come in at a bit of a lower price point if that's an important consideration. But the main thing is getting a bike that fits and feels right to you. It can be something of a personal choice, and the bike I love might not be the best bike for you.

Gramin

What others have said. Test ride, figure out what you like, but I'd definitely suggest taking out a Trek Emonda (I'm partial to mine). Buying to be shipped? That part bothers me. You're going to want a shop to put it together for you. So, if you have to buy and ship, have the shop put it together for you, make sure it fits, then watch them take it apart so you can reassemble. These things don't usually ship in one piece, so you're going to need tools. And if you're going CF, torque wrenches. So yeah... I'm concerned about the ship part of it. But, if you can buy east, have it assembled, MARK YOUR SEAT LOCATION, then that might work.

Also... winter is a great time to buy bikes, even early next year. You could pick up a great 2015 model marked down and still get the full manufacturer's warranty.

Gramin

Oh, one more thing. I'm of the mindset that you buy a nice frame and cheaper components as it's easier and often cheaper to replace the components later on. Get a great frame that will last you the next decade (or until you get the "itch") and slowly upgrade components as you have more cash.

Gyrine

Yea, ride several bike shop floor bikes but be aware that 54" from one manufacturer may not have the same geometry as a 54" from another manufacturer; in fact, most likely it will not. As you have done be sure to note the top tube length in addition to the overall "size" on the bikes you test.

No problem having a bike shipped "some assembly required" but ask the supplier what that means and what tools you will need. I've done it twice and all I had to do was bolt the handlebar to the stem (4 screws) and put the wheels on and, of course, slide the seat tube in to the correct height (seat itself was already attached). The biggest PINA was removing all the packing material and zip ties without scratching the paint job.

For this I needed a 5Nm and 6Nm torque wrench, which you will need to make adjustments anyway; in fact, get set of 4, 5, and 6 preset torque wrenches. Amazon sells CDI wrenches and I just saw that Park Tool now has them.

Most important, buy as much bike as you can afford, maybe a little more, and that looks fantastic. Good luck.

greenlight149

I noticed that you said " I value speed above all", you have to understand that a carbon bike and nicer components will not make you faster. If that's the only reason you want carbon then you will be disappointed.

winston63 

This is a good point - $2000 CDN will buy an awfully nice aluminum framed bike that will be plenty light and responsive and have high level components. Something like a Specialized Allez or a Cannondale CAAD will cost much less than an equivalently specced Carbon bike, will probably be just about as light and certainly won't ride any "slower".

highsis

Thanks everyone! I went to a local bike store and tried out a bike that I wanted to buy. The owner offered me a temporary deal so I had to buy it on spot for a discount, but at least I know I won't regret my choice.

waterfish_21

What bike and how much, we have to know!

peddle4bikes

It's best to test the road with your preferred bike. I know a shop who could give you a best deal plus freebies. I don't but bikes online and with all those freaky fees. I suggest you test it first. Best of Luck!

ColaJacket

If you have to ask these questions, then you shouldn't be buying a bike online. You need to go to a LBS and road test a bunch of bikes in different brands and different geometries. Test as many different brands as you can to see what you like (e.g. Trek, Specialized, Giant, Cannondale, Fuji, Jamis, Raleigh, Felt, etc.). Each one has a slightly different geometry, so you may like one (or a few) more than the others.

Also, you probably don't need a full CF bike. A good AL alloy bike with 105/Tiagra will suit your needs for a few years. And if you decide not to continue biking, you haven't lost as much money when you sell the bike. Also, you can go plenty fast on a bike like this. As a newbie, it won't be holding you back for a few years.

Save some of your money for accessories.

Also, if you don't know how to "wrench" your own bike, then you'll have to pay an LBS to put the bike together. You'll have to pay them for adjustments (where if you bought the bike at a LBS, you would get adjustments and a basic fit for free).

And if you're a student that is using the bike to commute to campus, be very careful about how and where you lock up the bike. A lot of students get used beaters, because of the threat of theft. If you do get a new bike, make sure you get a very good lock or two, and that both wheels and the seat are locked to the bike, and the bike is locked to something that is set permanently in concrete, and can't be taken apart easily. The U-locks are highly recommended for making sure the frame and one wheel is firmly attached to some type of bike stand.

Good Luck!

GH