What do old people ride, lets see your bikes
#3551
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,173
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3492 Post(s)
Liked 3,626 Times
in
1,819 Posts
#3553
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,173
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3492 Post(s)
Liked 3,626 Times
in
1,819 Posts
That is an "extreme" bar position.
"extreme"
Drop bars usually are not rotated that far upwards.
Same goes for brake levers. Hood placement should enable a neutral wrist position, which I doubt that one does. Also, braking from the drops will be rather difficult.
Maybe the extreme bar position is compensating for another bike fit problem, like too long of a reach?
"extreme"
Drop bars usually are not rotated that far upwards.
Same goes for brake levers. Hood placement should enable a neutral wrist position, which I doubt that one does. Also, braking from the drops will be rather difficult.
Maybe the extreme bar position is compensating for another bike fit problem, like too long of a reach?
#3554
old newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 881
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 555 Post(s)
Liked 362 Times
in
185 Posts
That is an "extreme" bar position.
"extreme"
Drop bars usually are not rotated that far upwards.
Same goes for brake levers. Hood placement should enable a neutral wrist position, which I doubt that one does. Also, braking from the drops will be rather difficult.
Maybe the extreme bar position is compensating for another bike fit problem, like too long of a reach?
"extreme"
Drop bars usually are not rotated that far upwards.
Same goes for brake levers. Hood placement should enable a neutral wrist position, which I doubt that one does. Also, braking from the drops will be rather difficult.
Maybe the extreme bar position is compensating for another bike fit problem, like too long of a reach?
Should the bars be rotated forward?
I guess I really should get the bike fit to me.
Last edited by pepperbelly; 04-03-24 at 10:46 AM.
#3555
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,698
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1619 Post(s)
Liked 2,632 Times
in
1,241 Posts
Likes For curbtender:
#3556
old newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 881
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 555 Post(s)
Liked 362 Times
in
185 Posts
Not a problem. Some people only ride the brake hoods. It has to be pretty windy before you see me in the drops. If you are not sure you can adjust them down to try it out. Here is a good explanation on that...
https://youtu.be/rNKxVcy5Skk?si=d5tljJS9kTzB4MAK
https://youtu.be/rNKxVcy5Skk?si=d5tljJS9kTzB4MAK
If I rotate them forward would the hoods be a further stretch to reach?
#3557
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,149
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1420 Post(s)
Liked 1,937 Times
in
1,112 Posts
good starting point for mounting shifter / brake assemblies is to align the bottom of the brake lever to the bottom portion of the handlebar drop with a straight edge (ruler or whatever) … then go from there … (someone else can probably better describe this and / or provide a visual)
a different stem might be more appropriate for you … a stem with rise (zero or 5 - 15 degrees ?) … maybe the stem could be flipped to provide +5 to 7 (? - can’t determine from the pic) … and/or - shorter stem with a rise could provide a better position for you on the bike and be more comfortable … ? … and then the handlebar and shifter / brake assemblies could be better oriented … shifter / brake assemblies could be lowered on the handlebar drops to provide a better and more neutral position for shifting and braking (from hoods and drops)
Last edited by t2p; 04-03-24 at 01:21 PM.
Likes For t2p:
#3558
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,698
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1619 Post(s)
Liked 2,632 Times
in
1,241 Posts
Likes For curbtender:
#3560
Just Pedaling
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 1,032
Bikes: YEP!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 338 Post(s)
Liked 532 Times
in
355 Posts
I think you'll like it. IN that current config there is almost no way possible you could use the brake levers while in the drops. My old wrists won't bend like that. But brakes aside, I find the drops my goto position for comfort. It didn't used to be like that, but then I come from a MTB background. As I've aged I've gotten lazy and the drops are where I always end up, especially when I get tired and fatigued. Good luck
Likes For SpedFast:
#3561
old newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 881
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 555 Post(s)
Liked 362 Times
in
185 Posts
I think you'll like it. IN that current config there is almost no way possible you could use the brake levers while in the drops. My old wrists won't bend like that. But brakes aside, I find the drops my goto position for comfort. It didn't used to be like that, but then I come from a MTB background. As I've aged I've gotten lazy and the drops are where I always end up, especially when I get tired and fatigued. Good luck
#3562
old newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 881
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 555 Post(s)
Liked 362 Times
in
185 Posts
Can you show me about how the bars should look? I just want an approximation so I know about how much to adjust them.
#3563
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Posts: 25,357
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8321 Post(s)
Liked 9,126 Times
in
4,509 Posts
Remember bars come in lots of different shapes and sizes, different reach and drop configurations.
Likes For big john:
#3564
Just Pedaling
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 1,032
Bikes: YEP!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 338 Post(s)
Liked 532 Times
in
355 Posts
A good starting point is rotating the bars to make the bottom of the drops level with the ground and then rotate them until they feel right for you. Just remember, as mentioned earlier, the more you rotate them up, the closer the hoods come toward you. If they're too close to you you'll find that you're putting more weight on your arms which will affect your wrists and shoulders. There is a sweet spot where you'll find that your arms aren't leaning on the bars and that's what you want. With time and hours in the saddle that will change as your body develops and you lose your 'Aero; physique.
Likes For SpedFast:
#3565
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,149
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1420 Post(s)
Liked 1,937 Times
in
1,112 Posts
double yikes !
#3566
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,149
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1420 Post(s)
Liked 1,937 Times
in
1,112 Posts
another double yikes - this one offers flat bar and drop bar !
Likes For t2p:
#3567
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,149
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1420 Post(s)
Liked 1,937 Times
in
1,112 Posts
my fav
Likes For t2p:
#3568
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 13,347
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 284 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3907 Post(s)
Liked 4,859 Times
in
2,241 Posts
I put 33mm tires on a road bike and felt the sloppier (slower, softer,... IDK the best word) handling was offset by the cushioned ride over rougher surfaces. Fair compromise, I reasoned, for some rides. But not with fast downhills.
I purchased a set of Barlow Pass, lightweight 38mm, but moved the intended bike before the new tires got mounted. I'm almost afraid to mount the 38s on another bike for fear I will further compromise steering for comfort. Ohhh, the distress of indecision. Possibly for the '71 PX10, most others won't accept 38mm.
Last edited by Wildwood; 04-08-24 at 08:19 PM.
Likes For Wildwood:
#3569
Senior Member
My newest bike. I’ve been averaging about 30 miles per day on this bike. In June I’ll be riding it out to the Hiramatsu hot springs resort in Atami, and in July I will ride it from Wakkanai in Hokkaido to my home in Tokyo. The building in the background behind the bike is the Tokyo National Art Center, which is across the way from my home.
#3570
The Wheezing Geezer
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Española, NM
Posts: 1,069
Bikes: 1976 Fredo Speciale, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr., Libertas mixte
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 415 Post(s)
Liked 947 Times
in
454 Posts
Blue Bella came out nice, I think.
Blue Bella @ Rio Grande
24 1/4 lbs. (11 kg) as shown. Have added bottle cages and a pump since, and will be riding with a spare sew-up under the seat, too. And a little triangle bag, if I can find it. So here it is before it got cluttered up. :-)
#3571
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,761
Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 942 Post(s)
Liked 3,001 Times
in
989 Posts
Bottom row center is one of my wife's bikes. The rest are my regular riders, in the "grab-and-go" racks in the garage.
Top: Falcon, Paramount, Mercian
Bottom: PX10, Mrs. ascherer's Motobecane, Raleigh Pro Mk I. I have a Shogun touring bike in cold storage that will undergo a transformation and hopefully rejoin the regular rotation.
Top: Falcon, Paramount, Mercian
Bottom: PX10, Mrs. ascherer's Motobecane, Raleigh Pro Mk I. I have a Shogun touring bike in cold storage that will undergo a transformation and hopefully rejoin the regular rotation.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
#3572
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 13,347
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 284 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3907 Post(s)
Liked 4,859 Times
in
2,241 Posts
Never seen 3 such nice saddle covers. 20' digital image inspection.
Are Easterners more prone to 'covering (pun intended) all bases' than Westerners? - just talking USA of course.
Are Easterners more prone to 'covering (pun intended) all bases' than Westerners? - just talking USA of course.
__________________
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#3573
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,761
Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 942 Post(s)
Liked 3,001 Times
in
989 Posts
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
Likes For ascherer:
#3574
OM boy
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goleta CA
Posts: 4,395
Bikes: a bunch
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 534 Post(s)
Liked 655 Times
in
446 Posts
Yeah, I know - bizarre. Wildwood with
Shimano (integrated levers) instead of Campa, a 1st
electronic shifting - first, Di2 Ultegra
disc brakes - hydraulic even, a first
more than 29cogs, on a road bike, a first
no skinny frame tubes, first
room for 40mm tires, first on a road/gravel drop bar bike
e-bike, first
batteries, first
but ... even with nothing on the bars & stem I'm not sure my mantra is still valid:
clear your handlebars and your mind will follow
After 35+ adult years of active cycling = a little new is inevitable for a 70+ cyclist who still wants to crank it on, sometimes.
Besides I'm worth it and always ready for a charge.
Initial ride = 100% success.
Shimano (integrated levers) instead of Campa, a 1st
electronic shifting - first, Di2 Ultegra
disc brakes - hydraulic even, a first
more than 29cogs, on a road bike, a first
no skinny frame tubes, first
room for 40mm tires, first on a road/gravel drop bar bike
e-bike, first
batteries, first
but ... even with nothing on the bars & stem I'm not sure my mantra is still valid:
clear your handlebars and your mind will follow
After 35+ adult years of active cycling = a little new is inevitable for a 70+ cyclist who still wants to crank it on, sometimes.
Besides I'm worth it and always ready for a charge.
Initial ride = 100% success.
...maybe you've already done a write-up, somewhere else on BF?
Ride On
Yuri
#3575
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 13,347
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 284 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3907 Post(s)
Liked 4,859 Times
in
2,241 Posts
The short version is - I really like it, serves my specific purposes and has been 100% reliable, without so much as a flat tire. I did not change a stem or a handlebar or a saddle. Only added an 'off brand' range extending battery, which also has been working without issue. Guessing mileage since Oct '22 at ~2000miles. I have 38mm Barlow Pass tires ready as replacements, for hard 28mm (but no flats)
My specific primary reason for 'needing' an ebike is: the 32mile round trip commute to babysit grandkids proved too tiring for me to be effective with them. I still have a dozen rideable standard road bikes that are used when not 'commuting'. The secondary reason for 'needing' an ebike was to regain the ability to ride The Cascades again (faster than 3 mph uphill for miles). Third reason = I feel more comfortable running errands with less muscle power in my hilly local area. Fourth, I had not bought a new bike in years and with every other road bike base mostly covered why not go motored, electronic shifts, with hydraulic discs? .
My longer comments will follow later tonight.
Commuter Wildwood, recently.
Cascades Wildwood = after climbing to this point, 10 miles more to ~6,200 ft elevation (I think). It was a 3 day cycling weekend using Crystal Mt Resort as a base.
The motor made the mountain trip not only possible, but far more enjoyable. A real aerobic event for me, obviously less muscularly demanding. Maybe sad to some members, but not from my 72yo perspective.
Which offers a segue to the larger topic of ebikes and motors. My opinion is that my 30 lb Orbea Gain, Class1 250w rear hub motor with assist to 13-14mph is perfect for me. Others may want more assisted speed and are willing to buy the extra power and associated additional drivetrain maintenance. I have been - and remain - a guy who likes to pedal, but acknowledges that I can't pedal uphill as well as I would like. Would I want an ebike as my only bike = No, the cycling experience would be lacking. But the road ebike is another arrow in the quiver of cycling's world of satisfaction.
60 years apart (1959 - 2020) not that much change for a pedal bike.
Last edited by Wildwood; 04-19-24 at 03:07 PM.