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Old 11-12-19, 07:44 AM
  #5676  
Baby Puke
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Flawed product in a couple of ways, lack of factory support makes it worse. Avoid if you can. I spent waaaaaayy too much time fettling mine. Corima/Mavic/Campy/FFWD, the new Walker Bros stuff probably all way less hassle.

Incidentally the Campy disc I have now is noticeably stuffer laterally than the 900 was.
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Old 11-12-19, 09:07 AM
  #5677  
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Also worth mentioning RENN makes a flat disc (like the 900) that isn't terribly expensive. Most folks don't realize they offer a track option as they primarily make Tri stuff.
Some of the best customer service out there as well.
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Old 11-13-19, 06:56 AM
  #5678  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
Also worth mentioning RENN makes a flat disc (like the 900) that isn't terribly expensive. Most folks don't realize they offer a track option as they primarily make Tri stuff.
Some of the best customer service out there as well.
I asked them (him). No longer does track stuff, although the option is still in their drop down menu.
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Old 11-13-19, 08:01 AM
  #5679  
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing View Post
I asked them (him). No longer does track stuff, although the option is still in their drop down menu.
ahh darn I guess they didn't sell (m)any. Too bad, always had good luck with Renn
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Old 11-15-19, 05:57 PM
  #5680  
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Great theme!
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Old 11-17-19, 07:38 PM
  #5681  
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What do you all put for grip on your aero bars (handlebar tape, grip tape, hockey tape) and why?

I just purchased my first set of aero bars.

Last edited by AmahlAmahlAmahl; 11-18-19 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 11-18-19, 05:26 AM
  #5682  
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I've used skateboard grip tape and an used inner tube. The inner tube worked well, but it was a pain in the *** to get it on.
The set I use now have the rough paint texture on the grips.
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Old 11-18-19, 06:42 AM
  #5683  
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electrical shrink wrap
grip tape
electrical tape + spray adhesive + sand
hammered (textured) paint
3d printed grips
hockey tape
nothing + chalk
nothing + gloves

sort of depends on the bars. Hockey tape is probably the tackiest "tape" that you can remove pretty easily without making a mess.
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Old 11-18-19, 10:24 AM
  #5684  
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Originally Posted by Huskey View Post
I've used skateboard grip tape and an used inner tube. The inner tube worked well, but it was a pain in the *** to get it on.
The set I use now have the rough paint texture on the grips.
Can I see photos?
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Old 11-18-19, 02:36 PM
  #5685  
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Originally Posted by AmahlAmahlAmahl View Post
Can I see photos?

Not the best pic, this is from when I sold them.

I actually even put double sided tape under the innertube after getting them on. Once they're on the bars you can roll it back stick the tape on and roll the inner tube back down. Wasn't really needed but I noticed over a lot of standing starts they were twisting a bit, even though you couldn't feel it.

Tbh I would just use grip tape, a lot easier.
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Old 11-27-19, 09:14 PM
  #5686  
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Originally Posted by Huskey View Post

Not the best pic, this is from when I sold them.

I actually even put double sided tape under the innertube after getting them on. Once they're on the bars you can roll it back stick the tape on and roll the inner tube back down. Wasn't really needed but I noticed over a lot of standing starts they were twisting a bit, even though you couldn't feel it.

Tbh I would just use grip tape, a lot easier.
My bars just came in the mail and I listen to your advice and I put grip tape on the extensions.

My next question, where can I found aero plugs for my extensions and base bar?
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Old 11-28-19, 02:02 AM
  #5687  
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Originally Posted by AmahlAmahlAmahl View Post
My bars just came in the mail and I listen to your advice and I put grip tape on the extensions.

My next question, where can I found aero plugs for my extensions and base bar?
You can order these directly from Profile. They come in a number of styles and are very cheap. I couldn't find them listed anywhere a few years ago, so I emailed Profile. Super helpful people.
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Old 12-02-19, 08:38 AM
  #5688  
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So I'm starting to accumulate some bigger chainrings (55+) but running into the issue of not having a good way to transport them. My old reliable chainring/cog bag won't take anything that big. Would prefer not to have them floating free in my big bag :/
Thoughts/Suggestions?
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Old 12-02-19, 04:01 PM
  #5689  
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I use a laptop bag as my gear bag these days. I have cardboard folio things to separate the rings and it's big enough for all of my tools and spares and they come with a shoulder strap which is handy for transport as well. The bag easily accommodates my 60t and I think a 70t would fit as well (15" laptop bag). I outgrew my track bag as soon as I went 55+. There are some nice track bags from companies like skingrowsback that accommodate big rings if you want to stick with that style, but my laptop bag cost me all of $15
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Old 12-02-19, 08:55 PM
  #5690  
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Hi! New to the forum, somewhat new to track racing (but pretty experienced as a rider, I've gone ultra distance fixed)... Looking forward to my second season.

I'm looking into picking up a new frame for next year, due to my current frame being a bit small, as in I can't fit it within uci regs for mass start (I may keep that frame for tt only). I expect to focus on mostly Sprint events as they seem to suit me. Due to being 6' 3" with kinda long arms I need a long bike that's not obscenely expensive. I've narrowed it down to 2 that will fit and am looking for opinions as to which might be the better frame.

So Dixie Flyer vs Look 875 Madison.


I'm currently leaning towards the Look solely based on warranty/crash protection. Really like the look of the DF though.

Any info on either bike would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 12-02-19, 09:07 PM
  #5691  
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Hi! New to the forum, somewhat new to track racing (but pretty experienced as a rider, I've gone ultra distance fixed)... Looking forward to my second season.

I'm looking into picking up a new frame for next year, due to my current frame being a bit small, as in I can't fit it within uci regs for mass start (I may keep that frame for tt only). I expect to focus on mostly Sprint events as they seem to suit me. Due to being 6' 3" with kinda long arms I need a long bike that's not obscenely expensive. I've narrowed it down to 2 that will fit and am looking for opinions as to which might be the better frame.

So Dixie Flyer vs Look 875 Madison.


I'm currently leaning towards the Look solely based on warranty/crash protection. Really like the look of the DF though.

Any info on either bike would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 12-03-19, 04:53 AM
  #5692  
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I see a lot of posters speak very highly of the dura ace 7600 hubs, but don't really know exactly why. What are the advantages of dura ace hubs over something like the formula hubs? Is it to do with performance or is it more to do with build quality etc? Thanks
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Old 12-03-19, 06:06 AM
  #5693  
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Some of it is build quality. Some of it is that they are approved "NJS" (which people often equate to durability, although that's not particularly true)

Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.

Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
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Old 12-03-19, 06:07 AM
  #5694  
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brawlo hadn't thought of that... I probably have a laptop bag laying around somewhere.
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Old 12-03-19, 06:55 AM
  #5695  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
So I'm starting to accumulate some bigger chainrings (55+) but running into the issue of not having a good way to transport them. My old reliable chainring/cog bag won't take anything that big. Would prefer not to have them floating free in my big bag :/
Thoughts/Suggestions?
The Track Assistant looks nice. It can hold 8 rings: http://www.thetrackassistant.com/

I have the regular BLS bag and can fit 7 rings in there, but it's tight. Supposedly it will fit a 60, but I don't think I'd be able to double up rings in the slots like I do with a 60. The larger BLS bag also fits 8 rings.

Originally Posted by mling1985 View Post
I see a lot of posters speak very highly of the dura ace 7600 hubs, but don't really know exactly why. What are the advantages of dura ace hubs over something like the formula hubs? Is it to do with performance or is it more to do with build quality etc? Thanks
Nothing. Go with Formula. My 7600 hubs have been a PIA. Should never have bought them used.
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Old 12-03-19, 02:39 PM
  #5696  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
Nothing. Go with Formula. My 7600 hubs have been a PIA. Should never have bought them used.
Yeah, my DA 7600 hubs were nice when new. But, they require maintenance and tuning after a couple of years. When they get a lot of miles on them or the grip nuts get mashed-down, the tolerances get wonky and you'll have a number of issues.

For worry-free use, use sealed hubs, as topflightpro suggests.
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Old 12-03-19, 06:50 PM
  #5697  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
Some of it is build quality. Some of it is that they are approved "NJS" (which people often equate to durability, although that's not particularly true)

Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.

Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
Ah that brings back memories. When I had a big time trial, Id do all of the above AND remove one bearing from each side. It was supposed to reduce bearing-on-bearing friction. Not sure if it actually worked, but it helped to psych me up.
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Old 12-04-19, 03:45 AM
  #5698  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
Some of it is build quality. Some of it is that they are approved "NJS" (which people often equate to durability, although that's not particularly true)

Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.

Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post

Nothing. Go with Formula. My 7600 hubs have been a PIA. Should never have bought them used.
Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Yeah, my DA 7600 hubs were nice when new. But, they require maintenance and tuning after a couple of years. When they get a lot of miles on them or the grip nuts get mashed-down, the tolerances get wonky and you'll have a number of issues.

For worry-free use, use sealed hubs, as topflightpro suggests.
Thanks guys!! so awesome to have a place like this to ask questions for newbies like me
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Old 12-04-19, 04:14 AM
  #5699  
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The "heavy version". The light will be sub7.
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Old 12-04-19, 04:56 AM
  #5700  
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Originally Posted by tobukog View Post
The "heavy version". The light will be sub7.
is that an old Araya track disck wheel?
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