Bjerager

Okay, after a couple of tours on my newly aquired Motobecane C5 it becomes more and more obvious that I just have to abandon the thought of keeping the bike in original condition if I want to use it to more that a museum piece.

First of all, I need a wider set of handlebars. Anyone that knows the diameter of the handlebar and stem on this bike?

Secondly I need better brakes. As far as I understand a set of aero levers would make a difference, and as far as I understand there are better options out there than the Weinmann 605. But wich to choose without completely destroying the bikes look...

I have looked at the Weinmann Carrera 400 that the La Retoute bike team used on their Motobecane team bikes. But it seems to me that they are quite expensive. Are they worth it or wouldn't I gain that much when it comes to improved braking power?

Other options would be the Mavic SSC 430 or 440 - or maybe the original modolos instead?

I have also considered Dura Ace 7401, Suntour Superbe Pro's, Dia Compe Gran Compe or Royal Gran.

What would give me the best braking power? Wich brake levers would be a good choise? I don't want to destroy the look, the brakes should be from the late 70's og early 80's. Dual pivots or centerpulls are not an option.

chainwhip

...I've found that my purchase of a digital caliper has paid for itself in vastly reduced frustration, and more effective eBay and CL rummaging while feeding my C&V habit.





As for brakes...if you want side pull brakes + actual stopping power, I'd head for the dual pivots aisle,
and ignore any excessive purist feedback.

Bjerager

I hear you - but I won't go for the dual pivots - but thanks anyway.

chainwhip

No worries.

Last ride 76 

As far as braking power... any of those mentioned can be made to lock up your wheels... except perhaps Modolo "Speedy"s. I think Modolos, as long as they are models above the "Speedy" are fine. Many found the speedy arms not rigid enough.

Personally, I like Modolo levers, but also have Dura-Ace, and Dia-Compe(with suntour gpx hidden spring brakes). They all work fine, in my opinion.


The total combined weight of bike, rider, and gear would become a factor at some point, but I have no experience or knowledge in that regard.

My experience is relevant for total loads under 200 lbs.

Bjerager

Thanks, I'm looking at the Dia Compe Gran Aero at the moment,, A Guy has a pair of NOS up for sale not to far from me. Without the levers. Anyone Who have tried Them? Another option would be af set of Mavics - I know that they really Are Modolos, but it Will keep the bike french.

Alså a pair of NOS Modolo Q-even is up for sale locally - I've never heard about them before.

Mr. 66

Of what you mentioned I would think the Carrera would be keeping in flavor with what you have, but have no experience with those. From there the Suntour is great. I would not go with the Gran Compe, they work ok if you can get the cables clamped. I've had the Gran Compe on a couple of bikes, they have fine line of loose-right-broken.

Campy always works good, Universal has some has some product that would look good on your ride.

Bjerager

There is a set of Universal Team 300R in black up for sale locally without the levers - know anything about them?

Campy - I think they would look out of place on a french bike. The Carreras are soo expensive...

bikemig 

Yes dual pivots are better but there is plenty that can be done to make single pivots work great. I have zero issues if someone wants to run dual pivots on a vintage bike but you are wrong about single pivot brakes lacking "actual stopping power."

bikemig 

French bikes have 22.0 stem and 25.0 handlebars. Here is a useful crib sheet on French dimensions:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/velos.html

Older bikes came with narrower handlebars. Wide 25.0 bars won't be easy to find. Sometimes a Nitto quill stem (22.2) drops right in to a French bike; sometimes it doesn't. Still you can sand that .2 mm off (and there are youtube videos) and then run the stem and handlebar combo you like.

It is easy to make those brakes work a lot better. Aero levers help. But the first thing to swap out are the brake pads. Those pads are probably crusty. Try some kool stops and new cables and housing. You will be happy with the braking once you do.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Bjerager

Thanks a lot - Kool stop - will loot them up. But the cables on the bike are new and the pads are NOS.

iab

That's what I was thinking. Not a lot of difference between the calipers the OP listed.

iab

Doesn't matter. The "O" in NOS is old. 30-year-old rubber ain't gonna stop your bike.

Last ride 76 

I like the idea of "mavics" Campys were sometimes found on the top of the brand model french bikes, I think also perhaps optional, with up-charge...(Mon dieu, dis moi que ce n'est pas vrai, Joe).

bikemig 

+ 1. The OP's problem is very likely the old brake pads.

BFisher

I have these

...on my '79 Motobecane Grand Sprint. Calipers and levers are stock. Cables and housing are new, and the shoes are Ultegra from a few years ago.

They are excellent. Cables and shoes made all the difference.

santa fe 2926 

On my PSV-10, the Weinman 105 with good pads work fine, cables and brake pads that are new make a big difference.

cudak888 

There's nothing inherently wrong about the 605's other than that they're a bit unconventional to service with their recessed Allen key. You have NOS pads and that's your problem.

Another vote for "put Kool-Stops on it."

What handlebar width are we working out from? 40cm? 42cm? Do you already have a preferable bar width? Better get that caliper too for the clamp diameter - Harbor Freight it if you don't want to invest anything but the minimal in a caliper, but please do get one.

-Kurt

rustystrings61 

First of all - that is a beautiful bike!

The least expensive route that would probably yield immediate results would be to go with good stainless brake cables, teflon-lined housings and Kool-Stop pads. I have done the first two with my 1976 Puch, running its stock non-aero Weinmann levers and a pair of Weinmann Carrera sidepulls. I will note that I have the original black pads. I also took a file to them to get down past the dried-out crust. But seriously, after cables and teflon-lined housing, the Kool-Stop salmon colored pads.

Weinmann Carreras are excellent brakes with delrin buffers between all moving parts - including the points where the springs press against the arms. They're just smoother and easier to operate with less friction involved. I'm running two sets of them, a 1st generation set on the aforementioned Puch with stock levers and a second set from when they changed the cable fixing bolt arrangement, operated by an ancient set of cheap Dia-Compe aero levers. Both are running sanded original issue black Weinmann pads and they both work beautifully.

I would second chainwhip's recommendation of acquiring a good cheap set of digital calipers. I scored mine from Harbor Freight for $10 and they have been awesome and have dramatically reduced the frustration in my bike repair life.

If after measuring your bars you find you need a new stem, I would highly recommend Nitto. If at first you can't fit a Nitto stem into a French bike, remove the headset locknut and try without it. If that works, then file or dremel out the interior top of the locknut until it permits the stem to pass through. I've read suggestions of running a brake cylinder hone down the inside of the steerer to remove any crud or corrosion, but looking at your Motobecane, I suspect it has been well cared for and that shouldn't be an issue. I've been running Nitto stems on my Gitane and my Allegro, both with metric-gauge Nervor steerers, and Nitto stems fit nicely into them.

bikemig 

+ 1 on all of this. I like the idea of dremeling out the interior of the locknut (assuming the Nitto fits the steerer column) better than the idea of sanding off some of the stem to get it to fit which is an alternative solution.

ThermionicScott 

+1 for Kool-Stop salmon brake pads. There is no virtue in having "NOS" brake pads, unless your bike is a museum piece.