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Modifying old bikes for commuting

Old 08-16-19, 04:59 PM
  #26  
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Your plan is a good one, and many of us have done it. Stick with the center pulls until you know you want the dual pivots.
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Old 08-16-19, 04:59 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C
I've done this with 80's lugged steel Schwinn frames, which seem to be plentiful and similar to the other Japanese / Taiwanese frames of the day. My 1982 "Traveler" easily accommodates 700c x 35 mm tires, though I didn't check for fender clearance. My "World Tourist" has 27" x 32 mm tires, and fenders, so I see no reason why it wouldn't also clear the slightly smaller diameter of 700c.

The cost picture depends entirely on how many "keeper" parts are on the used bike. I look for bikes that have a square taper crank with bolt-on chainrings, and horizontal dropouts per my preference for IGH and single speed builds. Some Schwinn frames have a derailler mount, others require the "claw" mount which limits your drivetrain options. There's about a 50% chance the bottom bracket will have been neglected to its detriment.

If the bike has good 27" wheels, I'd at least ride them until the tires wear out. I have a rule never to replace a tire until I've used up the rubber that I paid for.
What kind of brakes did you use and what, if any issues, did you encounter with them?

As far as the cost picture I'm mostly looking at 2 possibilities:
1. No keeper parts. Swap out all the parts for more modern ones. This would end up costing more but hopefully still less than something like a new Surly since I would only pay <$100 for the frame. That's fine.
2. Almost all keeper parts. This would be cheaper if I can find something like that. That's fine too.

Either option is good.
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Old 08-16-19, 05:16 PM
  #28  
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Why not just get a bike for around $200 that already has more widely available 700C wheels on it?

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...955608988.html

This would be about ideal if it fits, and may need some work, but would be steel, classic, and good for commuting. I've always wanted one, but it's too big for me.
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Old 08-16-19, 05:51 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by imakecircles
Why not just get a bike for around $200 that already has more widely available 700C wheels on it?

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...955608988.html

This would be about ideal if it fits, and may need some work, but would be steel, classic, and good for commuting. I've always wanted one, but it's too big for me.
No reason, there's just not a lot of these. And the 700c bikes out there generally don't have a lot of clearance for bigger tires. Touring models being the exception but those aren't common. Steel also isn't common.

That bike was too small for me, I actually looked at that one. I don't think it's actually 60cm.
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Old 08-16-19, 05:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by iamacat
Maybe nothing is wrong with good ones. I don't know. Just all of the ones I've tried were terrible compared to the dual-pivots on my road bike. From what I've read online the dual pivots are a newer technology and are stronger brakes. It matched with my (limited) experience and so I assumed that i was the case.

Center pulls do have a bit more clearance it seems. Maybe not more than the Tektros that I mentioned.
...center pull brakes are the original dual pivot brake. They do take longer to set up properly, and are a little more fiddly to center than modern dual pivot sidepull brakes. It's entirely possible that all the center pulls you've experienced had old, hard brake pads that needed replacement with something less than 40 years old. Mafac center pull brakes will lock up your wheels just fine, as will all the other varieties. And yes, they do generally accept wide fenders better than dual pivot sidepulls. If you are going with wide tyres, fender clearance becomes an important consideration.
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Old 08-16-19, 06:01 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by iamacat
What kind of brakes did you use and what, if any issues, did you encounter with them?

As far as the cost picture I'm mostly looking at 2 possibilities:
1. No keeper parts. Swap out all the parts for more modern ones. This would end up costing more but hopefully still less than something like a new Surly since I would only pay <$100 for the frame. That's fine.
2. Almost all keeper parts. This would be cheaper if I can find something like that. That's fine too.

Either option is good.
On two bikes, I used dual pivot Tektro's, whatever reach was appropriate. Those are super nice brakes, and not exorbitant. On one other bike (single speed coaster brake hub plus front brake), I kept the original Dia-Compe because it was still in quite good condition and works OK. On the "World Tourist," the Dia-Compes were so mushy that I had very poor braking action, and that's when I decided to splurge on a pair of Tektro's. Bent brake arms and other damage seem to be frequent issues on these older bikes if they weren't well kept.

If you're planning on a derailleur bike, a 1x setup might be adequate for commuting, switching the small ring to whichever side gives you the better chainline. That eliminates the need for a workable front derailleur. I have a bias towards not throwing a lot of money at an old bike until I at least prove that I like riding it.

One thing I missed was, make sure the frame comes with a seatpost that is not stuck. (Try to loosen and move it as a condition of buying it). The reason is that Schwinn seatpost diameters were all over the place, and not terribly well documented. Finding the right diameter seat post is a hassle if you don't already have one that fits. In most cases, the stem will also be a keeper, and I've never seen bad headset bearings. If the front wheel has Brilando clips (a Schwinn exclusive) keep the cones and transfer them to your new wheel, or send them to me.
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Old 08-16-19, 08:57 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by OTS
Please, what rear rack is that on the Peugeot?
https://express.google.com/u/0/produ...3H4wcdvmMJMBAC

Cheap and it served me well for years.

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Old 08-16-19, 09:43 PM
  #33  
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Some folks found that center-pull brakes worked fine...
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Old 08-16-19, 11:20 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
Some folks found that center-pull brakes worked fine...
They weren't planning on stopping. But your point is well taken. One of the bikes in our family fleet has center-pulls, and they don't work noticeably worse than comparably priced side pulls of the era. It helps to have a third hand to hold the brakes closed while setting up the cables. I used an old toe strap.
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Old 08-17-19, 01:22 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by iamacat
Maybe nothing is wrong with good ones. I don't know. Just all of the ones I've tried were terrible compared to the dual-pivots on my road bike. From what I've read online the dual pivots are a newer technology and are stronger brakes. It matched with my (limited) experience and so I assumed that i was the case.

Center pulls do have a bit more clearance it seems. Maybe not more than the Tektros that I mentioned.
I've collected so much 27" stuff for "free" I'm able to choose 27" alloy rims for my keepers, 10 wheels all up and just one double walled rim which must be rare.
And i believe any brake system can perform well enough providing they're tuned in properly.

OK, i have double pivots on my Vortex Record and do feel more serious, this is a later 700c frame & i tried to fit skinny fenders on there that will only fit this frame, no go with 28mm tyres so have change to 25s, that's fine.. it is meant for road going after all.

Last edited by le mans; 08-17-19 at 01:26 AM.
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Old 08-17-19, 03:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C
They weren't planning on stopping. But your point is well taken. One of the bikes in our family fleet has center-pulls, and they don't work noticeably worse than comparably priced side pulls of the era. It helps to have a third hand to hold the brakes closed while setting up the cables. I used an old toe strap.
Yup. When I worked in the bike shop (circa about the same time that the picture of Eddy Merckx was taken) everything had to be the absolute best, which was Campagnolo. With some maturity, one realizes that there's a lot of good experiences in riding bikes that don't have brakes that cost a week or more of working man's wages.

Right now I'm going to finish cleaning up a 1978 Schwinn Superior (internally lugged, hand-fillet-brazed). I'll need to remove the Weinmann center pulls and polish them. After that, I'll work on the 73 Schwinn Voyageur. Originally it had center-pulls, but the guy I bought it from put Dura Ace side pulls on it. He included the center-pulls along with the purchase. I'll have to decide: original, or modified/improved.

The third hand we used in the shop was a little like that shown below. IIRC, though, it was made of about 3/4" wide stainless steel that was bent in a vee, with holes drilled that would center on the brake-pad bolts. Anyone remember those? An old strap is cheaper, though, and probably works great.

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Old 08-17-19, 03:05 PM
  #37  
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Found it. The Park BT-1 tool:
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Old 08-17-19, 07:27 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C
I've done this with 80's lugged steel Schwinn frames, which seem to be plentiful and similar to the other Japanese / Taiwanese frames of the day. My 1982 "Traveler" easily accommodates 700c x 35 mm tires, though I didn't check for fender clearance. My "World Tourist" has 27" x 32 mm tires, and fenders, so I see no reason why it wouldn't also clear the slightly smaller diameter of 700c.

The cost picture depends entirely on how many "keeper" parts are on the used bike. I look for bikes that have a square taper crank with bolt-on chainrings, and horizontal dropouts per my preference for IGH and single speed builds. Some Schwinn frames have a derailler mount, others require the "claw" mount which limits your drivetrain options. There's about a 50% chance the bottom bracket will have been neglected to its detriment.

If the bike has good 27" wheels, I'd at least ride them until the tires wear out. I have a rule never to replace a tire until I've used up the rubber that I paid for.
My dear, long gone, 1981 Traveler (Panasonic under an assumed name), wound up with 700c rims on the original Normandy large flange hubs (I used Wolber Gentleman rims). The Travelers of this era, are superb frames, with nice original components, and can be upgraded to nicer. And they ride nicely.
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Old 08-19-19, 03:28 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by iamacat
Hey all,

My idea is to take an old bike with 27" wheels, replace the wheelset with 700c, swap out the old center-pull calipers for some long-reach dual-pivots like the Tektro R559 and thus gain more clearance for fatter tires and fenders. Does that sounds reasonable or am I missing something?

The reason I ask is that in my area (Seattle) there are a lot of old 70s and 80s bikes for sale. I like these old frames but in order to be a decent commuter bike for Seattle, I need slightly wider tires (at least 30mm, hopefully more for the potholes), fenders (rains all the time) and non-mushy brakes for all the hills. All of the old bikes I've tried have terrible (outright dangerous, IMO) brakes and they generally don't have clearance for much wider tires with fenders.


Thanks!
I was going to do a rim swap on my Japan surplus bike to get a better selection of tires. I already had fenders and usable brakes. Then I looked a little closer and decided it was pointless. 27x1 3/8 is 630+(35x2) or... 700

Bicycle tires are a fairly mature technology. Once you ignore the marketing hype, the performance range within a product category just isn't that wide. While competitors may be willing to spend a small fortune to shave off a few grams or Watts, for the riding I do the least expensive skin between the rim and road will still provide adequate performance. Unless there's some sort of radical materials technology breakthrough only available on 700c tires I can't justify spending money on a rim swap.
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