Modifying old bikes for commuting
#26
aka Tom Reingold
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Your plan is a good one, and many of us have done it. Stick with the center pulls until you know you want the dual pivots.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#27
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I've done this with 80's lugged steel Schwinn frames, which seem to be plentiful and similar to the other Japanese / Taiwanese frames of the day. My 1982 "Traveler" easily accommodates 700c x 35 mm tires, though I didn't check for fender clearance. My "World Tourist" has 27" x 32 mm tires, and fenders, so I see no reason why it wouldn't also clear the slightly smaller diameter of 700c.
The cost picture depends entirely on how many "keeper" parts are on the used bike. I look for bikes that have a square taper crank with bolt-on chainrings, and horizontal dropouts per my preference for IGH and single speed builds. Some Schwinn frames have a derailler mount, others require the "claw" mount which limits your drivetrain options. There's about a 50% chance the bottom bracket will have been neglected to its detriment.
If the bike has good 27" wheels, I'd at least ride them until the tires wear out. I have a rule never to replace a tire until I've used up the rubber that I paid for.
The cost picture depends entirely on how many "keeper" parts are on the used bike. I look for bikes that have a square taper crank with bolt-on chainrings, and horizontal dropouts per my preference for IGH and single speed builds. Some Schwinn frames have a derailler mount, others require the "claw" mount which limits your drivetrain options. There's about a 50% chance the bottom bracket will have been neglected to its detriment.
If the bike has good 27" wheels, I'd at least ride them until the tires wear out. I have a rule never to replace a tire until I've used up the rubber that I paid for.
As far as the cost picture I'm mostly looking at 2 possibilities:
1. No keeper parts. Swap out all the parts for more modern ones. This would end up costing more but hopefully still less than something like a new Surly since I would only pay <$100 for the frame. That's fine.
2. Almost all keeper parts. This would be cheaper if I can find something like that. That's fine too.
Either option is good.
#28
Junior Member
Why not just get a bike for around $200 that already has more widely available 700C wheels on it?
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...955608988.html
This would be about ideal if it fits, and may need some work, but would be steel, classic, and good for commuting. I've always wanted one, but it's too big for me.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...955608988.html
This would be about ideal if it fits, and may need some work, but would be steel, classic, and good for commuting. I've always wanted one, but it's too big for me.
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Why not just get a bike for around $200 that already has more widely available 700C wheels on it?
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...955608988.html
This would be about ideal if it fits, and may need some work, but would be steel, classic, and good for commuting. I've always wanted one, but it's too big for me.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...955608988.html
This would be about ideal if it fits, and may need some work, but would be steel, classic, and good for commuting. I've always wanted one, but it's too big for me.
That bike was too small for me, I actually looked at that one. I don't think it's actually 60cm.
#30
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Maybe nothing is wrong with good ones. I don't know. Just all of the ones I've tried were terrible compared to the dual-pivots on my road bike. From what I've read online the dual pivots are a newer technology and are stronger brakes. It matched with my (limited) experience and so I assumed that i was the case.
Center pulls do have a bit more clearance it seems. Maybe not more than the Tektros that I mentioned.
Center pulls do have a bit more clearance it seems. Maybe not more than the Tektros that I mentioned.
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#31
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What kind of brakes did you use and what, if any issues, did you encounter with them?
As far as the cost picture I'm mostly looking at 2 possibilities:
1. No keeper parts. Swap out all the parts for more modern ones. This would end up costing more but hopefully still less than something like a new Surly since I would only pay <$100 for the frame. That's fine.
2. Almost all keeper parts. This would be cheaper if I can find something like that. That's fine too.
Either option is good.
As far as the cost picture I'm mostly looking at 2 possibilities:
1. No keeper parts. Swap out all the parts for more modern ones. This would end up costing more but hopefully still less than something like a new Surly since I would only pay <$100 for the frame. That's fine.
2. Almost all keeper parts. This would be cheaper if I can find something like that. That's fine too.
Either option is good.
If you're planning on a derailleur bike, a 1x setup might be adequate for commuting, switching the small ring to whichever side gives you the better chainline. That eliminates the need for a workable front derailleur. I have a bias towards not throwing a lot of money at an old bike until I at least prove that I like riding it.
One thing I missed was, make sure the frame comes with a seatpost that is not stuck. (Try to loosen and move it as a condition of buying it). The reason is that Schwinn seatpost diameters were all over the place, and not terribly well documented. Finding the right diameter seat post is a hassle if you don't already have one that fits. In most cases, the stem will also be a keeper, and I've never seen bad headset bearings. If the front wheel has Brilando clips (a Schwinn exclusive) keep the cones and transfer them to your new wheel, or send them to me.
#32
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#33
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Some folks found that center-pull brakes worked fine...
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They weren't planning on stopping. But your point is well taken. One of the bikes in our family fleet has center-pulls, and they don't work noticeably worse than comparably priced side pulls of the era. It helps to have a third hand to hold the brakes closed while setting up the cables. I used an old toe strap.
#35
Steel is real
Maybe nothing is wrong with good ones. I don't know. Just all of the ones I've tried were terrible compared to the dual-pivots on my road bike. From what I've read online the dual pivots are a newer technology and are stronger brakes. It matched with my (limited) experience and so I assumed that i was the case.
Center pulls do have a bit more clearance it seems. Maybe not more than the Tektros that I mentioned.
Center pulls do have a bit more clearance it seems. Maybe not more than the Tektros that I mentioned.
And i believe any brake system can perform well enough providing they're tuned in properly.
OK, i have double pivots on my Vortex Record and do feel more serious, this is a later 700c frame & i tried to fit skinny fenders on there that will only fit this frame, no go with 28mm tyres so have change to 25s, that's fine.. it is meant for road going after all.
Last edited by le mans; 08-17-19 at 01:26 AM.
#36
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They weren't planning on stopping. But your point is well taken. One of the bikes in our family fleet has center-pulls, and they don't work noticeably worse than comparably priced side pulls of the era. It helps to have a third hand to hold the brakes closed while setting up the cables. I used an old toe strap.
Right now I'm going to finish cleaning up a 1978 Schwinn Superior (internally lugged, hand-fillet-brazed). I'll need to remove the Weinmann center pulls and polish them. After that, I'll work on the 73 Schwinn Voyageur. Originally it had center-pulls, but the guy I bought it from put Dura Ace side pulls on it. He included the center-pulls along with the purchase. I'll have to decide: original, or modified/improved.
The third hand we used in the shop was a little like that shown below. IIRC, though, it was made of about 3/4" wide stainless steel that was bent in a vee, with holes drilled that would center on the brake-pad bolts. Anyone remember those? An old strap is cheaper, though, and probably works great.
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#38
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I've done this with 80's lugged steel Schwinn frames, which seem to be plentiful and similar to the other Japanese / Taiwanese frames of the day. My 1982 "Traveler" easily accommodates 700c x 35 mm tires, though I didn't check for fender clearance. My "World Tourist" has 27" x 32 mm tires, and fenders, so I see no reason why it wouldn't also clear the slightly smaller diameter of 700c.
The cost picture depends entirely on how many "keeper" parts are on the used bike. I look for bikes that have a square taper crank with bolt-on chainrings, and horizontal dropouts per my preference for IGH and single speed builds. Some Schwinn frames have a derailler mount, others require the "claw" mount which limits your drivetrain options. There's about a 50% chance the bottom bracket will have been neglected to its detriment.
If the bike has good 27" wheels, I'd at least ride them until the tires wear out. I have a rule never to replace a tire until I've used up the rubber that I paid for.
The cost picture depends entirely on how many "keeper" parts are on the used bike. I look for bikes that have a square taper crank with bolt-on chainrings, and horizontal dropouts per my preference for IGH and single speed builds. Some Schwinn frames have a derailler mount, others require the "claw" mount which limits your drivetrain options. There's about a 50% chance the bottom bracket will have been neglected to its detriment.
If the bike has good 27" wheels, I'd at least ride them until the tires wear out. I have a rule never to replace a tire until I've used up the rubber that I paid for.
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#39
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Hey all,
My idea is to take an old bike with 27" wheels, replace the wheelset with 700c, swap out the old center-pull calipers for some long-reach dual-pivots like the Tektro R559 and thus gain more clearance for fatter tires and fenders. Does that sounds reasonable or am I missing something?
The reason I ask is that in my area (Seattle) there are a lot of old 70s and 80s bikes for sale. I like these old frames but in order to be a decent commuter bike for Seattle, I need slightly wider tires (at least 30mm, hopefully more for the potholes), fenders (rains all the time) and non-mushy brakes for all the hills. All of the old bikes I've tried have terrible (outright dangerous, IMO) brakes and they generally don't have clearance for much wider tires with fenders.
Thanks!
My idea is to take an old bike with 27" wheels, replace the wheelset with 700c, swap out the old center-pull calipers for some long-reach dual-pivots like the Tektro R559 and thus gain more clearance for fatter tires and fenders. Does that sounds reasonable or am I missing something?
The reason I ask is that in my area (Seattle) there are a lot of old 70s and 80s bikes for sale. I like these old frames but in order to be a decent commuter bike for Seattle, I need slightly wider tires (at least 30mm, hopefully more for the potholes), fenders (rains all the time) and non-mushy brakes for all the hills. All of the old bikes I've tried have terrible (outright dangerous, IMO) brakes and they generally don't have clearance for much wider tires with fenders.
Thanks!
Bicycle tires are a fairly mature technology. Once you ignore the marketing hype, the performance range within a product category just isn't that wide. While competitors may be willing to spend a small fortune to shave off a few grams or Watts, for the riding I do the least expensive skin between the rim and road will still provide adequate performance. Unless there's some sort of radical materials technology breakthrough only available on 700c tires I can't justify spending money on a rim swap.