Buikema

Hello C&Vers. I've been contemplating my first bike build. I've done much wrenching on a modest bike stable that I can keep in some as semblance of order, but I'd like to build up my own bike from scratch-ish now. I have a Chinese Phoenix roadster, a vague copy of a DL-1 I believe, that I love, but I could use something that is a teeny bit more refined, and maybe in the sub 50 lb range for when I encounter the odd hill.

I'm looking to put together a roaster style bike with some modern comforts to cruise around town, groceries, etc. Some hills in my area but not too bad. I was looking at the Retrovelo Paul (https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/...-opinions.html) for inspiration, maybe with some north road bars.

The general consensus seems to be that the Paul is an 80s mountain bike frame dressed up nicely. So can I procure an 80s mountain bike frame and just go from there? I'm looking to have drum brakes, dynamo, 7-8 speed IGH, fenders, racks, circle lock, north road bars, and loud bell.

Does anyone see any speed bumps to look out for? I feel pretty good about my general bike assembly/part procurement knowledge, but I'm a little hazy on the rear spacing/drive train/chain line situation. Are 80s mountain bikes likely to have 135mm spacing (which I believe is standard for IGHs and dynamos)?

bikemig 

The rear drop outs on a mtb probably won't be optimal for an internally geared hub as it will most likely be a vertical rather than a horizontal dropout. Might be easier to go with a vintage touring bike with 700c wheels; or you could use something like this new albion privateer frame to do your build with, New Albion Privateer Frame.

WNG

The earlier 80s mtbs have longer wheelbases, lazier angles and likely 126mm spacing. But more will be horizontal dropouts.
The later 80s mtbs will be shorter, 130mm spacing, and mostly vertical dropouts.
Early to mid 90s mtbs with be the most sporting with shorter chainstays, steeper angles, but long top tubes. Almost all are vertical dropouts.
An exception that I'm aware personally are 1992 Specialized Hardrocks and some Rockhoppers. These had horizontal dropouts, Tange tubing and good road manners.
But I think they were 130mm spacing. I can check if you need to know.

Other platforms: 700C hybrids, a few 650B wheeled mtbs offered by Raleigh and Schwinn in the mid 80s.

Buikema

The Albion looks nice, a little spendy for this project I think. Its the fork that pushes me over the edge. I do like the somas though.

Good info on the dropouts. Thanks.

Buikema

Very good info. I think I need to do some home work on the hubs I'm interested in to confirm spacing required. Lazier angles is right my alley, that's what I'm looking for. I'll also look into the specialized frames, I seem to see those around often. But since now that I've said that I'm sure I'll never see one again.

WNG

Do check out our vintage mtb thread and vintage mtb drop bar conversion thread. Some were converted to swept back bar configurations for comfort.
You'll also see examples by model and year to decide on a mtb for your project, if you still plan on a mtb frame.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

I've always thought that a Miyata Trailblazer or Ridgerunner would make a good conversion…the higher end ones from the late-80s to early-90's have their splined triple butted tubing which is great stuff.

I've been down this road a few times with the IGH, drum brakes, etc.. its fun. Look into the Shimano FHR700 rear hub. Its a drum brake with a freehub. I love mine. Also don't rule out Coaster brake IGH's. Coaster brakes aren't just for kids. I commuted on a Nexus 7speed IGH with a coaster brake for many moons and loved it. I got an SRAM iMotion9 with a coaster brake to replace it (haven't done that yet). I'd post some pics but Picasa is down. Sturmey Archer front drum hubs are great, you can get em with dynamos too, they're awesome. Bear in mind that drum brakes are heavier and its more of a pain in the ass to change a tire or fix a flat (if you are the tube replacing type) but if you don't mind that, they work great, don't get affected by water and look cool.

I'd suggest looking into some bars besides North Roads. The Nitto Albatross or Dove, the Velo Orange Montmartre or Left Bank are all nice townie bars.

Grand Bois

I'd start with a road bike frame. They're lighter and they don't have the high bottom brackets that mountain bikes have. If you want relaxed angles, look for an older frame. This is a 1959 Carlton.

Bandera

Agree, classic period quality British club riders framesets are highly versatile and were designed to accommodate mudguards and various drivetrain types.
It was assumed that fixed gear, a Sturmey Archer IGH or derailleurs would be fitted at some point in the service life. Mine has sported all three over the last 40 years, currently both an AW hub & Cyclo 3-cog w/ NR derailleur.

-Bandera

Grand Bois

'73 Raleigh Competition with an S5/2 IGH.

Buikema

Good info. I've been thinking about a rear coaster, but I have yet to do the full research on IGH w/ drum brakes. I wasn't sure I could get 7-8 speeds and a drum brake all in one. Coaster was my back up plan, I'm just fine with that.

I'm not too worried about weight, I'm pretty sure that whatever I end up with will be lighter than a double top tube Chinese roadster made from what appears to be pipe.

Good tip on the tire changing. I'm down with patching and taking my chances. Currently the Phoneix (chinese roadster) is a nightmare if you have to change a flat. What with a center kick stand, big rack, fenders, etc..

fender1

This is the correct way to approach this project. Old mtb's are heavy and over built for your stated purpose. Plus is you need to change the bike back to a road bike for riding or future sale, you will have that option. I would look for a bike that had mounts for fenders and a rack.

Buikema

Great looking bike. I like the kickstand. The road bike looks great, what size tires are you running? I'm thinking of running some pretty fat ones to soak up the bumps, so I was thinking I wouldn't have the clearance on a road bike. I've got a go-fast road bike for maximum punishment already, so this is more the caddy, I hope.

Buikema

Sweet. I have an old international frame with a slight frame defect. Hmm... might be doable if I can do a little brazing. I had a complete international that I sold, it was so complete I couldn't bear to change it to something else.

Grand Bois

Those are 700 X 28 Panaracer Paselas. There's pleanty of room for them. Here it is with 700 X 38's. They're awfully close at the chainstays. I think that 700 X 32 would be ideal.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

picasa is back up,



This is what became of my '73 World Voyageur creamcicle. Its an xtracycle now... Bars are VO Left Bank with Tektro inverse levers. The Front hub is a modern Sturmey XFD drum brake hub, rear hub you can't see but is one of those Shimano FHR-700. Shimano calls that a Roller Brake instead of a drum brake. Its been a super reliable setup for me, the Inverse levers work fine with the drum brakes.

many of those parts used to live on this Varsity I tarted up for grocery runs.



This is the commuter i mentioned earlier with the coaster brake Nexus 7 IGH. I think the look of this was really clean. No brake levers, no calipers...if you didn't know better you could mistake it for a brakeless fixie.



I mean look at that nice clean cockpit.



Brake performance was always adequate but eventually I added a front caliper brake because i felt like it. Also some fenders and commuter gear



Here's a slightly different application of front Drum/ and the Shimano FHR700 - I really like the look of this but the whole setup was ultimately too heavy to be the kind of bike I wanted to ride frequently.



here's a closer look at that FHR700 -

sailorbenjamin

Crazy sexy cool.

sailorbenjamin

Weird. I couldn't see these last two pictures till I hit Reply With Quote. Then they showed up in the reply box.

Buikema

Great bikes, good inspiration. I particularly like the red w/ cream tire combo and your green bike. I may resist the road frame recommendations, I like the heavier look (and possibly feel I guess) of the bigger tires.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

its actually orange. Orange goes faster ;-)

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

I shimmed a threadless stem to fit on the seatpost and mounted an old set of road bars on it. Now my GF's kids come for rides on the back. They love it. That xtracycle is tons of fun. Literally it weighs a ton.

Martijn970

Do you know if the FH-R700 hub is for a 7 speed cassette? I have an 8 speed setup. If it is a for a 7-speed, can it be transplanted to receive an 8-speed set up?

Thanks!

lord_athlon

Those old mtb's are fun to ride as modern roadsters. I have a trek 850 I've been meaning to work on.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

The FHR700 hubs are meant for 7 speed. If you wanna put 8 or 9 on you probably are gonna have to swap out the freehub body.



those are all Old road frames.

Velognome 

I've got a early 80's MTB, lazy geometry, long top tube, horizontal DO's. It's now set up as a heavy duty road bike. BUT....the ride is beyond boring!

I'd go with the suggestions to use an older English Road Frame. Livelier geometry, they can handle large tires with fenders and will be significantly lighter than an old MTB.

Check out this Tread for lots of ideas from our Brothers & Sisters https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...tml?highlight=