gregm

Any other wireless Shimano FlightDeck users try to run a Schmidt SON28 dyno hub with a DLumotec Oval Senso Plus light mounted on the fork crown?

I just got this all mounted up... when I switch on the light, the Flight Deck doesn't get the signal from the wheel magnet. Very repeatable, every time -- light on, computer reads zero mph; light off, computer works fine.

Argh!!!!

-Greg

Rowan

Report it to the guy who sold you the hub. He seems to have a solution to everything else, he should have one for your problem. It surely cannot be that unusual to have had similar set-ups before

One question, though... your probe for the Flightdeck is on the left fork? And another... where is the light mounted?

Machka 

Personally, I've never been able to use wireless computers. If I pass my hand over one, the speed reading jumps wildly ... if I ride under powerlines, the speed reading jumps wildly ... if I ride near another cyclist using a wireless computer, the speed reading jumps wildly ... if I set my bicycle up on the trainer and happen to have any sort of electrical equipment nearby (TV, radio, computer), the speed reading jumps wildly.

I've given up on wireless computers.

gregm

Yes, I will have a look at repositioning various elements to try to optimize the wireless.

The computer is just left of center on the handlebars. The magnet & wireless sensor are on the right. Curiously, the current arrangement has the light spatially positioned right on the line between the wireless sensor and the computer -- the light's on the fork crown. I'll have a go at mounting the wireless pickup on the left side, and see if it can go higher up on the fork, closer to the computer.

Thanks for any & all feedback! The Flight Deck has worked well for me the past 6,500 miles or so... hope I can make everything groovy again with my new lighting systems.

-Greg

Rowan

One other irrelevant thought (maybe)... how are the batteries in both the sensor and computer. Old, faded ones might make the interference more acute than if they are fresh.

And definitely move the sensor to the opposite side and further up the fork. I suspect the sensor being close to the magnetic pulse (induction?) from the AC current through the adjacent wire from the hub is causing the cut-out problem.

bmike

Definitely check the batteries. My Mavic Win-Tech wireless worked flawlessly with a SON all last season - until the batteries started to fade - and the Mavic uses a custom front skewer as the wireless pick-up - right near the SON's dyno!

So far since fall my wireless VDO MC1+ has worked flawlessly as well.

Put the comp and the pick up on the same side.

Rowan

Adding to my post, IIRC, the sensors operate with a reed switch. It may well be the impulses of the AC current in the light wiring cause a minute magnetic field that is still strong enough to keep the reed switch in one position rather than fluctuating on and off when the wheel magnet passes by. Moving the sensor well away from the wire (ie, to the other side of the fork) should overcome that. The clue is the fact the problem only occurs when the light is switched on and the current flowing; if the magnets around the hub were the case, the computer wouldn't register at any time.

gregm

Thanks to everyone for input on this.

The battery in the pickup is new -- just replaced it a couple of days ago. The computer battery is 2years/6,500miles old.

I tried arranging all of the computer system bits so that they were on the opposite side of the bike from the light wiring, and so that the pickup & computer were as close as possible. Unfortunately, the problem remains.

Below is a picture.

Maybe a new computer battery will do the trick, but I am not terribly optimistic at this point.

Thanks,
-Greg

gregm

Ok, I tried placing the magnet at the extreme outer end of the spoke, right at the nipple. I mounted the computer straight down below the handlebars, where it would be unusable riding, but as close as its wires would let it get to the sensor.

I tried positioning the sensor up/down/left/right/forwards/backwards.

In every case, switching on the lamp killed the wireless signal.

I tried wrapping the lamp head in aluminum foil, but this had no effect.

I stuck a big ol' sheet of foil under the sensor -- that is, between the sensor and hub, if you like -- and the signal DID get picked up by the computer.

I'm not really fond of rigging up a sheet of foil or a metal plate permanently, so it looks like I'm going to end up burning a pair of Andrew Jacksons to get a wired harness. That stinks.

-Greg

Rowan

I'd still try a fraction-Jackson on a new computer battery. I think you have done pretty well to get 6,500 miles and 2 years out of a battery that has a fair load on it. It's the only thing that appears not to have been addressed, yet.

gregm

You're probably right.......... and I plan on keeping the computer (I like the virtual cadence, gear selection indicators, and brifter-integrated buttons), so at least I'll get mileage out of the new battery for the computer.

Cheers,
-Greg

2manybikes

Wireless computers are heavier, bigger, cost more, use up more batteries, it costs more to replace the batteries, and don't work all the time.

yuck!

gregm

Went to the drug store and got a new battery. No difference.

Pedaled over to closest bike store #1; closed. (4:30pm, Sunday, New Year's eve, after all!) Around the corner, bike store #2 was closed. Bike store #3 about half a mile a way, and en route to REI (where it's usually in stock)...

Bike store #3 is always open 'til 6 on Sundays. Guy rummages around and finds a wireless flightdeck, $88.75. Finds a bunch of Shimano wired flightdeck harnesses NOT for STI, $10/ea -- they had their own little bar-mounted buttons. No good.

This being the oldest bike shop in town, they've got hoards of parts tucked away in drawers. Guy opens the "computer" drawer, and pulls out a bag... looks like just the right kit, sealed in the original-looking plastic bag, although the bar mount doesn't have the current long arm and there is no cardboard packaging. Guy offers me to take it home to see if it works; ten bucks if I like it, otherwise just bring it back.

Here's hoping!

Also scored a NLA *Davitamon*-Lotto hat for my wife, who was afraid she might never get one due to the sponsorship change to Predictor-Lotto. Also, my first real night ride around town with the Dlumotec, and I am more than pleased. I am considering a taillight for general use as well as an E6 secondary for actual night rides. Quite a productive little ride around town.

-Greg

jimblairo

HID lighting emits a signal that interferfs with wireless cyclometers.

gregm

Definitely... turns out, though, that in my case it is my dynamo hub which is creating the interference.

-Greg

prestonjb

Weight of wireless is ridiculous to talk about...

Batteries and signal loss are more the issue.

The design is cleaner which is a plus.. Easier to clean the bike and less zip-ties to collect dirt...

Also wired-computers is notorious for stopping in wet conditions because the wire is a weak point for water entry...

However after using wireless for several years and trying various different brands... I thought I had it licked the problems til I got an hid... so now given up... Now going to go back to wired...

Only problem I have now is my bike is an S&S foldable.. So either I must always take the computer off (lots of time and wire wrapping/unwrapping which could break the wire) or I must figure out a way to break and reconnect the wire...

Now the SON is also going to give wireless problems? I think I'd have to say consider going back to wired if possible...

hammond9705

Which wired harness would work with the 6502 head? I would prefer wired, and have new Ultegra 10 speed STI.

Bob

prestonjb

SM-6500-RS (I think this is for 9-speed... Do you need 10 speed?)

Found it at ebay for $35. Looks like it has a wire for the pickup... See the link below...

https://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-Flight-D...QQcmdZViewItem