Campy seatpost binder bolt
02-05-21, 10:24 PM
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Campy seatpost binder bolt
I have a Marinoni SL with a Campy style seatpost binder bolt (non-tabbed, knurled) that is spinning in the frame. Does anyone have any experience with grinding a tab off a tabbed binder bolt and using two Allen wrenches to tighten the post? Are there any companies that make non-tabbed bolts without a Campagnolo price? I'm looking for a 20-22mm. Thanks.
02-05-21, 11:05 PM
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I think the most important thing is making sure the bolt is the correct length when using a non keyed bolt. It will play inside if one side isn't knurled to catch metal.
I've cut off a few notches with no issues. But like you mentioned sometimes 2 allens are needed to tighten the bolt.
I've cut off a few notches with no issues. But like you mentioned sometimes 2 allens are needed to tighten the bolt.
Last edited by malcala622; 02-06-21 at 10:00 AM.
02-06-21, 12:43 AM
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I used a tiny, tiny bit of JB Weld in my Miyata for a spinning nut. Pretty sure I could hammer it out if need be.
02-06-21, 04:51 AM
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I consider the tab or knurling on a nut a mere convince, never enough to really hold the nut in place for tightening. I ALWAYS use two keys for loosening or tightening a binder bolt. It is way to easy not to.
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02-06-21, 09:33 AM
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02-06-21, 06:08 PM
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^^^^
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2 is better than 1!Best, Ben
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02-07-21, 06:19 AM
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I have a Marinoni SL with a Campy style seatpost binder bolt (non-tabbed, knurled) that is spinning in the frame. Does anyone have any experience with grinding a tab off a tabbed binder bolt and using two Allen wrenches to tighten the post? Are there any companies that make non-tabbed bolts without a Campagnolo price? I'm looking for a 20-22mm. Thanks.
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02-07-21, 07:27 PM
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Thanks for all the advice. I'm putting in an order for a tabbed bolt right now (LBS doesn't stock, Bike Co-op shut down for winter and COVID...). I've kluged a solution using a QR binder bolt and two chainring spacers (8mm hole, 10mm OD) to prevent damaging the frame. Good enough for the fluid trainer.
02-07-21, 08:09 PM
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I'll second using a file, doesn't take long. Easy-peasy.
02-07-21, 10:20 PM
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Is this a case where the seat lug has no notch for the anti-rotation tab on the nut portion of the binder bolt?
I had such a situation recently, so I sculpted a sufficient notch within the bore of the seat lug ear on the left side using a Dremel tool with a suitably-small carbide cutting wheel.
It's easier though to just file away the tab and then apply a fat drop of Loctite to the interface between the lug bore and the nut. Let it sit over night (or accelerate the cure time with a hair drier) and the nut will never turn without a hex wrench put onto the nut itself. I always clean the surfaces where the Loctite will settle against, which improves the consistency of the bond.
Be sure to grease the threads inside and out. And make sure that the bolt's shoulder doesn't bottom against the end of the nut (add a washer or grind down the end of the nut if it does bottom out).
I had such a situation recently, so I sculpted a sufficient notch within the bore of the seat lug ear on the left side using a Dremel tool with a suitably-small carbide cutting wheel.
It's easier though to just file away the tab and then apply a fat drop of Loctite to the interface between the lug bore and the nut. Let it sit over night (or accelerate the cure time with a hair drier) and the nut will never turn without a hex wrench put onto the nut itself. I always clean the surfaces where the Loctite will settle against, which improves the consistency of the bond.
Be sure to grease the threads inside and out. And make sure that the bolt's shoulder doesn't bottom against the end of the nut (add a washer or grind down the end of the nut if it does bottom out).
02-12-21, 10:07 PM
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FYI: Received a message back from Marinoni Cycles: "...the only binder bolt we have with allen key on both end is this: https://store.marinonicycles.com/product/1180 Campy bolts are discontinued."
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