Which bike should I mod for a charity century on a budget?
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Which bike should I mod for a charity century on a budget?
Brand new forum member here. I'm ready to start riding again after a multi-year layoff following ACL surgery. The immediate motivation is a charity century ride I'm planning to do in June, so I want to start training this week. I've got two bikes in the garage that are each differently unsuited for long-distance street riding: a well-cared for late 90s Motiv Sonora mtb; or a like new 2007 Jamis Commuter 2.0. I figure the former would need tires and bar ends; the latter would need a front derailleur, triple ring crankset, and a straight bar (I hate the bend-back bar it came with). In either case I guess I will need clipless pedals and shoes. I already ordered a new seat.
I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but figure I will probably need a shop to do any of these mods except the pedals. So option 3 is try to sell either or both and offset the cost of buying a ready-to-ride vintage roadbike for $200-$250. Your thoughts?
I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but figure I will probably need a shop to do any of these mods except the pedals. So option 3 is try to sell either or both and offset the cost of buying a ready-to-ride vintage roadbike for $200-$250. Your thoughts?
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If the mtb fits well, it should be just fine. With or without clipless pedals (you really don't need them). Bar ends and slick tires would make the ride more comfortable, I agree on adding those.
Bar ends and tire installation/replacement are both very easy to do on your own, no need to go to a bike shop. To install the bar ends, just move all controls and grips inward a bit (simply loosening, moving, tightening), slide the bar ends on in whatever angle you like and tighten the screws. The tires are also easy and anyone who owns a bike should learn how to replace them, whenever you have a flat you'll have to do this anyway.
I've done 150km rides on my mountainbike without any problems, so there's no need for a roadbike. Unless you're racing.
Bar ends and tire installation/replacement are both very easy to do on your own, no need to go to a bike shop. To install the bar ends, just move all controls and grips inward a bit (simply loosening, moving, tightening), slide the bar ends on in whatever angle you like and tighten the screws. The tires are also easy and anyone who owns a bike should learn how to replace them, whenever you have a flat you'll have to do this anyway.
I've done 150km rides on my mountainbike without any problems, so there's no need for a roadbike. Unless you're racing.
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If the mtb fits well, it should be just fine. With or without clipless pedals (you really don't need them). Bar ends and slick tires would make the ride more comfortable, I agree on adding those.
Bar ends and tire installation/replacement are both very easy to do on your own, no need to go to a bike shop. To install the bar ends, just move all controls and grips inward a bit (simply loosening, moving, tightening), slide the bar ends on in whatever angle you like and tighten the screws. The tires are also easy and anyone who owns a bike should learn how to replace them, whenever you have a flat you'll have to do this anyway.
I've done 150km rides on my mountainbike without any problems, so there's no need for a roadbike. Unless you're racing.
Bar ends and tire installation/replacement are both very easy to do on your own, no need to go to a bike shop. To install the bar ends, just move all controls and grips inward a bit (simply loosening, moving, tightening), slide the bar ends on in whatever angle you like and tighten the screws. The tires are also easy and anyone who owns a bike should learn how to replace them, whenever you have a flat you'll have to do this anyway.
I've done 150km rides on my mountainbike without any problems, so there's no need for a roadbike. Unless you're racing.
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Brand new forum member here. I'm ready to start riding again after a multi-year layoff following ACL surgery. The immediate motivation is a charity century ride I'm planning to do in June, so I want to start training this week. I've got two bikes in the garage that are each differently unsuited for long-distance street riding: a well-cared for late 90s Motiv Sonora mtb; or a like new 2007 Jamis Commuter 2.0. I figure the former would need tires and bar ends; the latter would need a front derailleur, triple ring crankset, and a straight bar (I hate the bend-back bar it came with). In either case I guess I will need clipless pedals and shoes. I already ordered a new seat.
I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but figure I will probably need a shop to do any of these mods except the pedals. So option 3 is try to sell either or both and offset the cost of buying a ready-to-ride vintage roadbike for $200-$250. Your thoughts?
I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but figure I will probably need a shop to do any of these mods except the pedals. So option 3 is try to sell either or both and offset the cost of buying a ready-to-ride vintage roadbike for $200-$250. Your thoughts?
Bar ends help a lot, when I'm on the MTB I probably spend about 80-90% of the time holding the ends. Road-friendly tyres will also help a lot, simply by reducing rolling resistance. I've been very pleased with Schwalbe Marathon tyres - my front tyre is a Plus ATB (I think it's a discontinued product now) which has a slick zigzag pattern down the middle and a few knobbly bits down the sides, and the back tyre is an Extreme. Both are 26x2.0". The Extreme makes a nice humming noise when you get up to speed
I've never used clipless pedals, I rode in regular training shoes (I think they're called sneakers in the US) and with the standard flat pedals that came with the bike.
This kind of setup isn't the best possible arrangement to cover long distances but it worked for me. You could potentially turn your MTB into something suitable for the sake of a couple of new tyres and bar ends.
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#5
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the 700c wheel will take a HigherPSI tire so roll easier,, I find Ergon's Grips offer a decent
broad surface for your hands on a Straight 22.2 diameter bar..
If you want to start turning a higher cadence, then Spud shoe/pedal may help..
If a JRA cadence is fine, then a stiffer sole shoe will be fine..
if the insole is upgraded to something comfortable, in either case.
a non spongy sole shoe will put the effort into going forward ,
rather than compressing the foam.
broad surface for your hands on a Straight 22.2 diameter bar..
If you want to start turning a higher cadence, then Spud shoe/pedal may help..
If a JRA cadence is fine, then a stiffer sole shoe will be fine..
if the insole is upgraded to something comfortable, in either case.
a non spongy sole shoe will put the effort into going forward ,
rather than compressing the foam.
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the 700c wheel will take a HigherPSI tire so roll easier,, I find Ergon's Grips offer a decent
broad surface for your hands on a Straight 22.2 diameter bar..
If you want to start turning a higher cadence, then Spud shoe/pedal may help..
If a JRA cadence is fine, then a stiffer sole shoe will be fine..
if the insole is upgraded to something comfortable, in either case.
a non spongy sole shoe will put the effort into going forward ,
rather than compressing the foam.
broad surface for your hands on a Straight 22.2 diameter bar..
If you want to start turning a higher cadence, then Spud shoe/pedal may help..
If a JRA cadence is fine, then a stiffer sole shoe will be fine..
if the insole is upgraded to something comfortable, in either case.
a non spongy sole shoe will put the effort into going forward ,
rather than compressing the foam.
#8
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Mr_S, When it comes time for the pedals, the non drive side pedal is reverse threaded and the pedals maybe marked L and R for reference.
Before I built my tourer I used my mountain bike with a similar dual pattern tire as yours. Be careful blitzing a turn using alot of lean angle as the knobs don't stick well to pavement.
While I think I've seen most every style (and condition) of bike used for a century, of your two choices I'd have opted for the mountain bike also. The angle of the bar ends will be a major comfort factor. I have mine set at my most natural feeling/grabbing angle. I've see riders with them pointed straight upwards so there's alot of variance there.
Brad
Before I built my tourer I used my mountain bike with a similar dual pattern tire as yours. Be careful blitzing a turn using alot of lean angle as the knobs don't stick well to pavement.
While I think I've seen most every style (and condition) of bike used for a century, of your two choices I'd have opted for the mountain bike also. The angle of the bar ends will be a major comfort factor. I have mine set at my most natural feeling/grabbing angle. I've see riders with them pointed straight upwards so there's alot of variance there.
Brad
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Before I built my tourer I used my mountain bike with a similar dual pattern tire as yours. Be careful blitzing a turn using alot of lean angle as the knobs don't stick well to pavement.