Gearing for Mountains
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Gearing for Mountains
I'm trying to see if I can get a larger cassette for my back wheel for climbing in the mountains in Montana. Currently the largest cog is 28 and according to Shimano's site they don't make anything bigger for the Dura Ace line. Any recommendations? The bike is a Specialized Tarmac. Thanks
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What chainrings are you running, and where in MT? Just use an Ultegra cassette if your derailleur can handle it.
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If it is 11 speed, Dura Ace has a 11-30. Look here. Alternately you can go with the 11-34 Ultegra that Cypress suggested. Remember you might need a new chain to accommodate the larger cassette size.
#4
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Sadly, Dura-Ace 9000 was limited to 28, and 9100 seems to limit at 30 due to the rear derailleur size.
It might be most satisfying/cost efficient to change out the RD to a 105 or Ultegra that can take 34 and then swap to a 105/Ultegra cassette to take advantage of it all....
It might be most satisfying/cost efficient to change out the RD to a 105 or Ultegra that can take 34 and then swap to a 105/Ultegra cassette to take advantage of it all....
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Bozeman area? I lived there for 7 years. A 39x28 will clear most things in that area save for the nastier bits like Jackson Creek. If you need more, you'll have to switch to an Ultegra RD with a Ultegra cassette and a new chain. If it's newer Shimano stuff, you can also throw a 36t chainring on the front due to their proprietary bolt pattern. I run a 53/36 x 11-30 here in Oregon due to the roads not needing to be graded for snow travel (very steep stuff). A 36x28 is pretty darn climby and even moreso if you can get a 30 on the back.
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Bozeman area? I lived there for 7 years. A 39x28 will clear most things in that area save for the nastier bits like Jackson Creek. If you need more, you'll have to switch to an Ultegra RD with a Ultegra cassette and a new chain. If it's newer Shimano stuff, you can also throw a 36t chainring on the front due to their proprietary bolt pattern. I run a 53/36 x 11-30 here in Oregon due to the roads not needing to be graded for snow travel (very steep stuff). A 36x28 is pretty darn climby and even moreso if you can get a 30 on the back.
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No need to change the entire front end. All you'd need was a 36t chainring (if you want), a rear derailleur, a cassette, and a chain for the extra length. Everything else remains the same.
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I have two bikes with Ultegra Di2. My Giant has compact gearing with 11x34 rear, and I use every gear when climbing/descending in the hills of the BlueRidge. There are some very steep sections with not a lot of room for error. I pray my chain doesn’t snap (I did snap my loose bottom bracket one time and it damaged the chain stay. It was an expensive repair......
Frame creaks and all, quite an adventure!
This is a genuine pressure test for a bicycle.
Frame creaks and all, quite an adventure!
This is a genuine pressure test for a bicycle.
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Ride hard and ride on......
Ride hard and ride on......
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#11
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or even sub compact with rings from absolute black
https://absoluteblack.cc/oval-road-c...-for-110-4bcd/
You can get a road link if you want to keep your current RD.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink
If you want to go to a bigger cassette and don't mind the bigger gaps between gears.
Then there is also the option of going a shimano GRX crank and FD and that offers you a 48/31 or 46/30 crank.
https://absoluteblack.cc/oval-road-c...-for-110-4bcd/
You can get a road link if you want to keep your current RD.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink
If you want to go to a bigger cassette and don't mind the bigger gaps between gears.
Then there is also the option of going a shimano GRX crank and FD and that offers you a 48/31 or 46/30 crank.
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I'm trying to see if I can get a larger cassette for my back wheel for climbing in the mountains in Montana. Currently the largest cog is 28 and according to Shimano's site they don't make anything bigger for the Dura Ace line. Any recommendations? The bike is a Specialized Tarmac. Thanks
52x13 was a big enough gear for Eddy Merckx to dominate the pro peloton and you're no eddy.
That's halfway between 46x11 and 46x12.
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Merckx probably turned way higher RPM's than OP, and he was limited by technology, not equipment choice. Nobody in the current pro peloton (including flyweight climbers) is running less than a 53x11, and many riders opt for a 54t large chainring.
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It isn't really but I guess that depends on where you live and fitness. I live in Wv and spend maybe 0.034764% of my average rides at speeds over 30mph and I just coast when I spin out at 33ish mph. You still have the option to run a 48 big ring if you want a bit more top end.
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It isn't really but I guess that depends on where you live and fitness. I live in Wv and spend maybe 0.034764% of my average rides at speeds over 30mph and I just coast when I spin out at 33ish mph. You still have the option to run a 48 big ring if you want a bit more top end.
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Hey guys (gals), I want to than k you for comparing me to Eddie That's really flattering to have my name in the same sentence (just kidding). I think I have enough information to go on from here, and again thanks for your help.
Last edited by Freerunner; 05-06-20 at 08:22 PM. Reason: Misspelled word
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Some people on the forum talk about how we don't need high gears or we're not worthy of those gears, etc. To me, run the high gear you're comfortable with on the terrain you ride. On my compact crank bike I was not happy with 50x13 and was able to find a cassette with a 12 which helped on big rollers, windy descents and pacelines. On my standard crank bike I have a 52x11 and I only use the 11 on big descents.
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#18
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I live in Oregon now and 7% (7.5 minutes) of my last ride was spend over 30 mph, most of it not coasting. On rolling terrain, do you have to coast down one side of a roller, then wait until you slow down enough to not be spun out before beginning to pedal up the next roller or flat area? That usually what happens to me on my gravel bike and it drives me nuts.