Schwalbe Pro One sealant requirements
#1
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Schwalbe Pro One sealant requirements
I just ordered a newly redesigned schwalbe pro one tire to replace an older pro one recently destroyed by a giant screw. I came across the following instructions for mounting the redesigned pro one, which features a new compound and some other changes to the carcass as compared to the “microskin” pro ones I have been using.
Instructions for the first assembly: Schwalbe Pro One and Schwalbe Pro One TT Tubeless Easy tires must be used with Doc Blue tire sealant. At least 30 ml, preferably 60 ml per tire. The tire must be run for at least 25 km directly after the sealent is added. If the instructions for the first assembly are ignored, the sealing of the tire cannot be guaranteed.
I have been running the older pro ones with 30ml of orange seal for three and half years with no issues, and have a fair amount of the stuff on hand. Anyone experienced problems using sealant other than doc blue with newer model pro ones? 60 ml in a 25mm tire seems overkill and what's so special about doc blue? I had read that it was basically rebranded stans.
Instructions for the first assembly: Schwalbe Pro One and Schwalbe Pro One TT Tubeless Easy tires must be used with Doc Blue tire sealant. At least 30 ml, preferably 60 ml per tire. The tire must be run for at least 25 km directly after the sealent is added. If the instructions for the first assembly are ignored, the sealing of the tire cannot be guaranteed.
I have been running the older pro ones with 30ml of orange seal for three and half years with no issues, and have a fair amount of the stuff on hand. Anyone experienced problems using sealant other than doc blue with newer model pro ones? 60 ml in a 25mm tire seems overkill and what's so special about doc blue? I had read that it was basically rebranded stans.
#3
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From readings, it seems that Doc Blue is almost the exact same as Stan's. But cannot neither confirm nor deny this claim
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If you read the MSDS sheet, it lists doc blue and Stans, so I would guess they have the same active ingredients, although maybe the possibility of slightly different mixtures, or it could only be the color that's different. But both are supposedly manufactured by Stans.
I have never used sealants before. But I read that 60ml is for 2" or 50mm MTB tires, so maybe you could extrapolate 25/50x622/559x60ml to get 34ml.
Here is the product page. It says 60ml and then 30ml for "race tires". Whether or not you tire is specifically needing 60ml, your should go and send an email to schwalbe.
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/procore/articles/doc-blue
You could also look at Stans instructions. It says 118ml for wide tires and 60ml for road tires.
https://www.notubes.com/faqs
I have never used sealants before. But I read that 60ml is for 2" or 50mm MTB tires, so maybe you could extrapolate 25/50x622/559x60ml to get 34ml.
Here is the product page. It says 60ml and then 30ml for "race tires". Whether or not you tire is specifically needing 60ml, your should go and send an email to schwalbe.
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/procore/articles/doc-blue
You could also look at Stans instructions. It says 118ml for wide tires and 60ml for road tires.
https://www.notubes.com/faqs
Last edited by tomtomtom123; 02-07-20 at 05:42 AM.
#6
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Thread Starter
If you read the MSDS sheet, it lists doc blue and Stans, so I would guess they have the same active ingredients, although maybe the possibility of slightly different mixtures, or it could only be the color that's different. But both are supposedly manufactured by Stans.
I have never used sealants before. But I read that 60ml is for 2" or 50mm MTB tires, so maybe you could extrapolate 25/50x622/559x60ml to get 34ml.
Here is the product page. It says 60ml and then 30ml for "race tires". Whether or not you tire is specifically needing 60ml, your should go and send an email to schwalbe.
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/procore/articles/doc-blue
You could also look at Stans instructions. It says 118ml for wide tires and 60ml for road tires.
https://www.notubes.com/faqs
I have never used sealants before. But I read that 60ml is for 2" or 50mm MTB tires, so maybe you could extrapolate 25/50x622/559x60ml to get 34ml.
Here is the product page. It says 60ml and then 30ml for "race tires". Whether or not you tire is specifically needing 60ml, your should go and send an email to schwalbe.
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/procore/articles/doc-blue
You could also look at Stans instructions. It says 118ml for wide tires and 60ml for road tires.
https://www.notubes.com/faqs
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Is it possible that the more important part of Schwalbe’s revised instructions are the part about immediately running them for at least 25km? I wonder if this little nugget is part of the key to having the beads fully seal and maybe doing a better job of not losing as much air overnight compared to if you don’t go out and ride them right away?
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Use the Orange Seal and don't worry about it. Sounds like they are pushing a product. That would have to be some kind of special tire to only work with properly with Doc Blue
#9
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If you're at all expecting any kind of warranty interaction with Schwalbe, you're probably going to want to use either the Doc Blue or the identical Stan's.
If you're like me and would never expect a Schwalbe tire to require warranty replacement, or even last long enough to do so, use whatever sealant you like.
Some manufacturers are specific as to what sealant is okay, even though to the end user it doesn't matter.
Stan's is the worst performing of any sealant I've ever used-- because I don't ride an MTB with the tires @ 30psi.
If you're like me and would never expect a Schwalbe tire to require warranty replacement, or even last long enough to do so, use whatever sealant you like.
Some manufacturers are specific as to what sealant is okay, even though to the end user it doesn't matter.
Stan's is the worst performing of any sealant I've ever used-- because I don't ride an MTB with the tires @ 30psi.
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A couple of recent articles on sealants that go beyond the usual marketing hype:
Best tubeless sealants 2020
Is tubeless sealant bad for the environment? We asked 10 brands to find out
The latter article delves into performance issues, not just environmental impact (which is negligible).
Best tubeless sealants 2020
Is tubeless sealant bad for the environment? We asked 10 brands to find out
The latter article delves into performance issues, not just environmental impact (which is negligible).
#11
Non omnino gravis
Gone through about 2 quarts of Orange Seal in ~2 years, and it's pretty good. Always hoping for better, I'm now trying Kappius Goldylocks Pro Mech, and so far so good. It's cheap, it's the color of toothpaste, and it did a perfect job of sealing a puncture a few days ago-- I couldn't even find the hole after I finally stopped. Tire only lost a couple of psi.
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Gone through about 2 quarts of Orange Seal in ~2 years, and it's pretty good. Always hoping for better, I'm now trying Kappius Goldylocks Pro Mech, and so far so good. It's cheap, it's the color of toothpaste, and it did a perfect job of sealing a puncture a few days ago-- I couldn't even find the hole after I finally stopped. Tire only lost a couple of psi.
#13
Non omnino gravis
I'm pretty sure it was a targeted ad somewhere... Facebook, maybe? Like I said, Orange Seal has been the best so far, but I'm always looking for something better (and cheaper.) The head mechanic at my LBS swears by the Muc-Off No Puncture, but he's also sponsored by Muc-Off for racing, so he's not paying for it. Nearly four bucks per tire for Muc-Off is a little outside my comfort zone, when the Goldylocks is $25 a quart.
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#14
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I'm pretty sure it was a targeted ad somewhere... Facebook, maybe? Like I said, Orange Seal has been the best so far, but I'm always looking for something better (and cheaper.) The head mechanic at my LBS swears by the Muc-Off No Puncture, but he's also sponsored by Muc-Off for racing, so he's not paying for it. Nearly four bucks per tire for Muc-Off is a little outside my comfort zone, when the Goldylocks is $25 a quart.
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Gone through about 2 quarts of Orange Seal in ~2 years, and it's pretty good. Always hoping for better, I'm now trying Kappius Goldylocks Pro Mech, and so far so good. It's cheap, it's the color of toothpaste, and it did a perfect job of sealing a puncture a few days ago-- I couldn't even find the hole after I finally stopped. Tire only lost a couple of psi.
#16
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#17
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Thread Starter
Update...so far so good.
My new, updated for 2020, Schwalbe Pro One tire arrive today. I thought I would have to wait to mount it until I retrieved my compressor canniser from a friend to whon I had loaned it because I could never get my older version pro ones to mount with just a floor pump. But one of the improvements Schwalbe says they made to the updated pro one is that they mount more easily. So I decided to give it a shot without use of the cannister. I was able to get them on the rim easily (Hed Belgium+), no lever required, and they pumped right up to 100 psi, no sweat. That was not possible with previous version pro ones, even well broken in ones. Whats more, I haven’t added sealant yet, but they seem to be holding air, although the older versions also sealed up pretty tight without sealant. It will be interesting to see how much air they loose over the next few hours and over night, but given how well they are holding, I can’t imagine it will matter whether I use Blue Doc sealant or some other brand. They will seal. Since I won’t be riding the wheel for a few days,I will wait to add sealant until the day of the ride.
One minor note of concern is that after inflating the first time, I deflated to see if the tire bead, which has been redesigned according to a new tubeless standard, stayed locked to the rim the way the bead on older pro ones did. These did not, they popped out once the tire was fully deflated. This may complicate adding sealant through the valve stem, but since I have fancy Milkit valves that dont allow air to escape even with the valve core removed and so allow me to add sealant without fully deflating the tire, and the tire inflates easily without a compressor anyway, I am hoping this won’t be an issue.
Edited to add: Just flipped through the little booklet that came with the tire. It doesn't say anything about having to use blue doc sealant; nor does it say to ride 25km immediately after adding sealant.It recommends blue doc (of course) and just says to spin the wheel a bit to distribute sealant. Two hours after inflating, no sealant added, pressure has remained stable.
One minor note of concern is that after inflating the first time, I deflated to see if the tire bead, which has been redesigned according to a new tubeless standard, stayed locked to the rim the way the bead on older pro ones did. These did not, they popped out once the tire was fully deflated. This may complicate adding sealant through the valve stem, but since I have fancy Milkit valves that dont allow air to escape even with the valve core removed and so allow me to add sealant without fully deflating the tire, and the tire inflates easily without a compressor anyway, I am hoping this won’t be an issue.
Edited to add: Just flipped through the little booklet that came with the tire. It doesn't say anything about having to use blue doc sealant; nor does it say to ride 25km immediately after adding sealant.It recommends blue doc (of course) and just says to spin the wheel a bit to distribute sealant. Two hours after inflating, no sealant added, pressure has remained stable.
Last edited by DOS; 02-18-20 at 09:37 PM.