Andrew R Stewart 

As "component wheels" have become more common at the high end we are seeing more wheel/spoke issues. As the wheel costs have gone up the expectation of a certain cost/benefit changes. As brake pad clearances (and frame ones too, thankfully the trend is to greater clearances) have closed down the amount of tire rubbing something goes up. As the number of spokes go down the likelihood of a more flexible wheel is greater.

What your weekend rider uses currently was only found at the upper end of the racing demographics a couple of decades ago . I hear this frequently "well the XXX team rides these wheels, why am I having problems?" Missing is what the teams don't say or publish, the bad stuff. There's clauses in sponsorship contracts about bad mouthing supplied stuff. Missing is also the riders differences. I've seen light guys do harm to their stuff sooner then big riders do and some big riders can float over the road better then us skinny guys. (My boss is one of these. he attributes this to his Motocross riding in his youth).

I am interested in your findings in trying other wheels. Andy

AnkleWork

OK, what about spoke gauge? Consider fitting thicker spokes? (sacrilege)

One person's opinion: I consider 32 spokes on the rear as minimum. Aero penalty depends on how fast you ride but it's less important rear than front. As for ride quality, can the difference between 24 and 32 spokes be felt?

cpach

2x on 24h is what you've got, which is the ideal way to lace 24. Reversing the lacing would potentially help because the spokes that increase in tension under torque would be on the outside, but, again, slacking the pulling spokes on the driveside shouldn't happen with regularity. The hubs also may be pushing the boundaries of acceptable flange geometry to try to get the best bracing angle possible, causing some compatibility problems. Your rear derailleur still may be protruding inwards more than it should.

CliffordK

Perhaps find another wheel that you like at least to ride until you get this one sorted out. Then, take the your wheel and rebuild assuming pretty standard J-Bend spokes and nipples.

It would be a good informative project for a beginning mechanic.

• Move the pulling spokes to the outside.
• Thinner Ovalized spokes for more clearance.
• 2x on both sides of the hub to reduce torque flex.
• Name-Brand spokes (Sapim, DT, etc).
• Make sure spoke holes are not bending the spokes at the nipples.
• Check hub spacing. Move spacers so hub is as far to the right as possible without the chain rubbing.
• Of course, get dishing correct.
• If you wish to replace the rim too, find a good Off Center / Asymmetric rim.

Bike Gremlin

They are about the same. 32 3x is a bit better - as good as it gets without spoke heads overlaping.

Divide the spoke count by 9. Round down. And that's the maximal number of crosses achievable. However, it also depends on hub and rim. For 36 spokes, 4X is theoretical maximum, but it often results in spokes being "too tangent", srossing over the heads of adjacent spokes. While 36 3X, 32 3X and 24 2X make nice, tangent, without spoke head overlap.

I prefer to not have spoke heads overlap, so usually go with 3x on 36 spoke wheels. And, in spite of it being less tanget, I've had good results building such wheels for heavy riders - they stand up well to abuse and prefer them to 32 spoked ones - they still have a wee bit more spokes sharing the load. Downside is that "high end" (light) rims and hubs rarely come with more than 32 holes. And 32 spokes can make a reasonably strong wheel as well.

trailangel

Is that a mountain cassette on a road wheel?

smashndash

No, it's a 105 11-28 11 speed. I assume the freehub is 11 speed road.

fietsbob

Dished rear hub with 11 speed cassette ,

is essentially supporting and driving on manly the drive side tighter (creating the needed 'Dish') spokes
in this case only 12...

no wonder its noodly ..

Short spokes , no dish... all 24 work together , Wide symmetric Bracing angles helps too ..

Good Luck with your choices..





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