cccorlew

I realize we're all different, but wanted to share this as I've found a solution to my one handed bike issue I've had since becoming a serious cyclist in the 70s.

I have kind-of-a left hand, but no grip. I can't brake at all. I can shift, but it's very awkward. I lean around and push the lever, but it never feels natural, even though I've done it since the advent of brake/shifters

I've solved my problem by rubbing money all over my bike. I realize this won't be feasible for everyone, but perhaps the technology will trickle down to reasonable prices some day and this will supply the ideas someone else can use.

Curtis Corlew in Bicycle Land: SRAM eTap, Praxis 48-32 cranks and the perfect bike ?a review

I hope this provides some inspiration for other problem solver cyclists.

qcpmsame 

Very nice set up Curtis, I'm strongly considering a Di2 set up for my CAAD10 with what Parkinson's disease is doing to my hands and their grip. Perhaps the SRAM deserves a look also, I have plenty of experience with their derailleurs and Double Tap. Thanks for the report.

Bill

Juan Foote

Great article, thanks for sharing with us.

I really dig what you did with the parts selection to achieve your gearing goal. I have been considering this for my might get built bike. I also like to have a 1:1 ratio on hand. I end up with a cassette worn on the top 5 or so cogs and the whole bottom half is as like new.

esther-L

I have poor strength for climbing. I have had a mountain bike cassette and long-cage derailleur installed on every road bike I have owned. I am quite fond of 11x32. I only have 9 and 10 speed cassettes - haven't wanted to go to 11.

rm -rf

Di2 is great. It's like clicking a mouse button, and it's fast and precise. I shift all the time, for slight changes in grade, or even shift the front chainring for a tiny hill that I might have just mashed up in a too-hard gear before. I'll often shift for just a couple of pedal strokes, then shift again.

The optional secondary "sprinter" buttons can be placed anywhere, usually with the small button poking through the bar tape.

Syncro shift
Di2 now has "syncro shift" as an option in the setup. You just shift the rear cogs, and when they get to your pre-set high or low cog number, it shifts the front chainring and also shifts the rear a few cogs to compensate.

You'd never have to use the front shifter buttons.


In this example setup, in the 36 chainring (green arrows), when you shift to the 15 cog, it shifts to the 52 chainring and two rear cogs to the 19 cog.

Then, in the 52 chainring (blue arrows), shifting to the 25 cog shifts the front to the 36 and 2 cogs in the back. These shift points can be easily changed.


~~~

"semi-syncro" moves a couple of rear cogs automatically when the front is shifted.

I just use manual shifting, but I have the "long press" (1/2 second or longer) set to shift 3 rear cogs. So I can hold down the front and rear shifter buttons to shift the front and shift 3 in the rear. It's easy, and I don't have to think about it, it's the two bottom buttons at the base of the hill, and two top buttons at the crest.

rm -rf

Lower gearing

I posted in another thread about my combo 14-32 11-speed cassette. It's every cog from 14 through 20:
14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 25 28 32

It's perfect for my faster group rides, where I want very close shifts from 17 mph to about 24 mph, but still need to climb steep hills. I spin out at about 30 mph, but that's a good tradeoff.

And I normally have to shift 4 or 5 cogs when changing chainrings, but that's easy with electric shifting.

jacobkevin567

Thats great man because not every body has the courage to do this

oliviathesis

Very cool, and great blog

tigat

Curtis: sorry it took me so long to weigh in. I've been off the forum for a bit.

That is a great use of etap for one-handed shifting. It's actually pretty close to the di2 system I've been running for the last four years-remote shifters built into the hood. I converted it over to synchronized this summer, which makes it a one set of buttons only if I want (I still have a set dedicated to shifting only the front ring, cause I was used to it).

Your blog didn't mention what you're doing for brakes and I couldn't tell from the picture. I went with the SRAM hydro rim brakes (the Domane was not disc ready at the time) to reduce the pull pressure that a cable splitter requires (my only hand only has a couple of fully working fingers). SRAM was kind enough to engineer and build a hydraulic splitter. The system has been flawless for more than 25,000 miles of riding. I know SRAM would be glad to
supply you with one if you want to go that route.

I hope you're enjoying the new ride.