redlude97

I use those on my gravel bike, while they roll fast for a gravel tire, they are not in the same league as a gp4000s or the like

Bah Humbug

Scuttlebutt from Dan Empfield and Damon Rinard is those are as fast as the GP4Ks. I want to see how people feel about them after a season or three of use.

smashndash

Indeed, but I have the turbo pros. Does this mean the turbo pros are going to feel/have similar flat resistance compared to the GP4K, SWorks and Pirellis? If so, that would help a lot with my decision.

redlude97

ah, didn't realize they made a different version, only ever seen the s-works version sold in stores etc

goenrdoug

+1 on the Schwalbe ones. I switched to them after blowing hundreds of dollars on GP4000II's and ending up throwing a number of them away with sidewall cuts, strings at the bead, blow-outs, etc. rendering them unusable. The Schalbe One have been less expensive, far more durable and offered just as much performance.

To the OP: Yes, put the turbos on immediately and you'll notice the performance difference on your next ride. Once you wear those out, get the Schwalbe Ones for your next set and don't look back.

ksryder

Probably aren't going to find a great deal of first-hand experience on the Pirellis yet because they're basically brand new. Pirelli just recently re-entered the bicycle tire market after being absent for years? decades? I forget.

FWIW I wasn't crazy about the Pirellis I had on my car, they were loud and they didn't last long and they had terrible traction after a minor amount of wear. But that's really a useless data point because it tells us nothing about their bike tires.

Colnago Mixte

The first set of GP 4000's I bought around 2011-2012 had a very bad problem with the loose strings getting wrapped around axles and snagged on brake pads. And then, once the thread was finished unwrapping, I was never sure if the sidewall strength might be compromised by the loss of 4-5 feet of thread. I would imagine it would ...

I have bought 3-4 more pairs since then without having that problem, I think it was a production defect they eventually corrected.

redlude97

You may have just gotten lucky so far, the Schwalbes have even thinner sidewalls than the gp4000s and less sidewall puncture resistance
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance...-clincher-2014

San Pedro

I really like Michelin endurance tires, nice ride and some decent puncture protection.

goenrdoug

I encountered these problems around the same time (and/or with tires that believably had been on the shelf for long enough to have been from those batches. Given that I spent as much as $65/ea for the damned things, I gave up on them after having been burned enough times in a row.

Maybe so, but as @Colnago Mixte said, I wonder if the unraveling threads at the bead reduced the sidewalls' puncture resistance (maybe the hot brake track/rim edge touching the sidewalls without the bit of overlapping thread from the bead resulted in problems? I dunno...)

Interesting tool. It does seem to compare The GP2K with the Schwalbe Ones VERY closely -- even giving the Ones the edge in rolling resistance at 100 PSI and better rating for tread puncture resistance. Overall, however, it looks like it ranks the two tires (at least the 2014 versions) neck-and-neck.

fishboat

..with the gp4000s running about twice the price of the GKs,,presumably (hopefully) there's some value offered in the increased price. The GKs are certainly a step up from gatorskins at around the same price.

redlude97

The gravel kings and GP4000s can both be had for around $30-35

fishboat

If you have a link for the gp4000s at $30-$35 please post as I'd like to try them.

redlude97

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=64447

even cheaper if you order from one of the UK sites

Keiffith

I was considering these for commuter use, and you convinced me they are a good option. Just hope I can fit the size I want

diphthong

yes but don't fall for any of the pro 3's. the pro 4's are worth the extra cashish.

MyTi

The GP4000s II in 25mm size has been awesome for me. No flats but only 100 miles on them if that, and I've definitely run over some glass here and there, knock on wood.

fishboat

I have a gravel tour coming up and mounted a 700x35 GK SK(semi-knobby) on the rear of my gravel bike to see how it fit & felt (have a 700x28 GK slick on the front as I was using it on the bike on the road during another trip). I road to a bike shop yesterday to pick up some parts(gravel bike has a rear rack & bag) & did 60 miles with the 35 GK SK / 28 GK slick combo. I was really surprised how nicely the SK road on pavement..bike felt much better than it has with some road tires.

GrainBrain

I finally rotated off my Gatorskin from the rear, anything will be better then Gatorskins!

I got a GP4k for the front and put my GP4s to the back, both 25mm. I've had great luck with the black chili compound on mtb. Lots of grip and plenty of wear life.

rubiksoval

Yep. I typically stock up when there's a sale. Still have a 3 sitting on my shelf from the last time they were 32 bucks... I think from Planet Cyclery? Currently they have them for $36.

smashndash

So I'm about to pull the trigger soon enough. I'm gonna go with the Pirellis. But I have one last question for you guys. I want to stagger my tires - 25mm front for aero, weight, sharpness of handling (sidewall flex and pneumatic trail) but 28mm rear for comfort/speed gains from suspension (the roads here are beyond crappy and my aluminum frame/aero post rattle me pretty hard).

Is there any disadvantage other than VERY slight aero losses and weight gain to running a 28mm rear instead of a 25 on a 17mm internal rim? I feel this would benefit most amateurs who aren't riding at 45km/h average. Why isn't this common?

redlude97

that's fine, you see it less because a 28 won't clear most brake calipers or frames. I personally have run 23/25 for the same reasons

smashndash

Sounds good. A buddy of mine ran 28mms on 21mm internal rims (THICC) on the same frame so I'm not worried about clearance. I already have a bit of trouble pulling my wheels out despite the QR on the caliper but... I think I'll survive.

canklecat

I'm partial to the original Schwalbe One V-Guards, although they're discontinued and the remaining old stock tends to be overpriced. I haven't tried the Pro One version. Great grip and low rolling resistance. They cut easily but resist punctures and even with cuts they don't develop avulsions (puckering with the inside turning out like a hemorrhoid) for weeks or months. I rode one that was cut to pieces much longer than I should have but it was fine.

If you're antsy to try something right now and have $30 burning a hole in your bike budget, buy a set of Continental Ultra Sport II now and ride 'em while you're deciding on better tires. They're really good for the money. They grip just as well as the Schwalbe One V-Guards, and seem to wear a bit better. They're more cut resistant and seem just as puncture resistant despite lacking a puncture shield.

I got a set of Ultra Sport II's earlier this year while trying to decide on replacements for the Schwalbe Ones. Still riding 'em now and can't find a good reason to replace them. If I was racing crits or TTs, sure, maybe, but I'm not and not fast enough for it to matter. Only thing I'd do differently is get them in 700x23. My rims are very narrow and the 700x25 on the front felt a bit splashy so I replaced it with a 700x23. The 700x25 on the back feels fine, cushy but not sluggish on chipseal or smooth pavement (a formerly chipsealed route was just smooth-topped so I've had a chance to compare both over the past year).

One thing -- get a tire bead jack. Some Contis are super tight. A bead jack can remove some cussing from the process. I carry a Kool Stop bead jack in my jersey. Doesn't weigh much, sure was handy twice this year on the road, especially after my shoulder was busted up and I couldn't get much brute leverage.

RShantz

But you have to have tread for grip in the dry - right. Just look at any motorsport.