Mysterious ticking noise when pedalling
08-20-18, 11:46 PM
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Mysterious ticking noise when pedalling
Hello,
I recently acquired an early 2000's Hillman from my dad which I was honored to received and its a dream to ride. It was built with Shimano Dura Ace 7700 group set, with clip in pedals but my father and I are not compatible when it came to shoe sizes so I decided to swap the pedals for flat pedals to make it more accessible to ride. Initially this was fine but over the last month I have noticed a ticking noise which seems to be coming mainly from the right side of the crank around the FD and normally only occurs under load once per revolution (it's not incredibly loud but noticeable). Before I received the bike it was given a full rebuild, and since the ticking noise has occurred I have had it looked at 3 times at different bike stores and each time they have 'solved' the problem but then it starts up again after about 5-10km of riding. I have asked them to look at the cranks, FD, pedals, and seat, and each time they have tightened something which probably needed tightening anyway.
But I still think it is one of the following problems but cannot be sure:
1) Pedals are not installed properly and causing too much tension (I didn't use grease since the brand said it wasn't needed, and I also didn't tighten them to a specific nm, I just tightened as much as they would go).
2) FD is the problem since sometimes it also has trouble changing down from the big ring to the smaller ring or won't change at all
3) The bottom bracket needs to be replaced, which would surprise me since the bike was rebuilt and all parts that needed replacing where replaced
The pedals I purchased are MKS Sylvan Touring pedals:
Pedal Specs:
If anyone has experienced this sort of problem could you please advise on what it may be and if I should be re-installing my pedals to a specific nm and with grease, or I should be using different pedals all together.
I am just getting a bit over having to go back and forth to different bike stores and paying money to fix something which I thought would be a pretty straight forward fix.
Thank you for your time
-Henry
I recently acquired an early 2000's Hillman from my dad which I was honored to received and its a dream to ride. It was built with Shimano Dura Ace 7700 group set, with clip in pedals but my father and I are not compatible when it came to shoe sizes so I decided to swap the pedals for flat pedals to make it more accessible to ride. Initially this was fine but over the last month I have noticed a ticking noise which seems to be coming mainly from the right side of the crank around the FD and normally only occurs under load once per revolution (it's not incredibly loud but noticeable). Before I received the bike it was given a full rebuild, and since the ticking noise has occurred I have had it looked at 3 times at different bike stores and each time they have 'solved' the problem but then it starts up again after about 5-10km of riding. I have asked them to look at the cranks, FD, pedals, and seat, and each time they have tightened something which probably needed tightening anyway.
But I still think it is one of the following problems but cannot be sure:
1) Pedals are not installed properly and causing too much tension (I didn't use grease since the brand said it wasn't needed, and I also didn't tighten them to a specific nm, I just tightened as much as they would go).
2) FD is the problem since sometimes it also has trouble changing down from the big ring to the smaller ring or won't change at all
3) The bottom bracket needs to be replaced, which would surprise me since the bike was rebuilt and all parts that needed replacing where replaced
The pedals I purchased are MKS Sylvan Touring pedals:
Pedal Specs:
- Body Alloy
- Plate Alloy/Anodized
- Size W94mm x L63mm
- Step Area Double sided
- Bearing CUP & CONE BEARINGS
- Purpose TOURING CITY
- Weight of a pair 391g
If anyone has experienced this sort of problem could you please advise on what it may be and if I should be re-installing my pedals to a specific nm and with grease, or I should be using different pedals all together.
I am just getting a bit over having to go back and forth to different bike stores and paying money to fix something which I thought would be a pretty straight forward fix.
Thank you for your time
-Henry
08-21-18, 12:20 AM
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The dreaded mystery squeak. Too many different components to analyze in a text. Bearings the most to blame in the pedals, bottom bracket, headset or wheels. I know that doesn’t help 
. My aluminum framed bikes squeak by nature and I ignore it and it goes away. However a very loud squeak beyond the annoying click signals something is wrong. Basically the nature of aluminum is there is always going to be a twitch that squeaks. My best guest is to replace the bottom bracket in my experience the dreaded click was solved. Beware that is only a guess 
. My aluminum framed bikes squeak by nature and I ignore it and it goes away. However a very loud squeak beyond the annoying click signals something is wrong. Basically the nature of aluminum is there is always going to be a twitch that squeaks. My best guest is to replace the bottom bracket in my experience the dreaded click was solved. Beware that is only a guess
08-21-18, 12:32 AM
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Before I hit the sack here in the Northern Hemisphere one little bit of sand etc in the chain will make that click. I’ve spent hours going over all possibilities then I just resolved in cleaning the chain and the click went away.
08-21-18, 01:13 AM
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That's a nice looking bike!
MKS pedals are nice pedals and generally are greased from the factory but it can't hurt to take a peek if you can remove the cap. You shouldn't have to tighten the pedals too much; pedaling tends to finish the job for you.
It could just be the picture but the front derailleur cable looks to be stretched too tight (actually both cables do). You generally want a bit more slack than what it looks like in the pic. I'm surprised the mechanics did not point this out to you at all. This could be the source of your intermittent front shifting as well as the ticking noise. Could be the cable is getting pulled slightly with movement and causing the FD to move slightly and rub against the chain.
MKS pedals are nice pedals and generally are greased from the factory but it can't hurt to take a peek if you can remove the cap. You shouldn't have to tighten the pedals too much; pedaling tends to finish the job for you.
It could just be the picture but the front derailleur cable looks to be stretched too tight (actually both cables do). You generally want a bit more slack than what it looks like in the pic. I'm surprised the mechanics did not point this out to you at all. This could be the source of your intermittent front shifting as well as the ticking noise. Could be the cable is getting pulled slightly with movement and causing the FD to move slightly and rub against the chain.
08-21-18, 04:17 AM
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If the BB and everything else was already tightened then tighten your rear wheel skewer. You also might have a loose spoke which will tick when it rotates to the 6 'o clock. Both can sound like it's coming from the cranks.
08-21-18, 04:19 AM
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Much to learn.
Last edited by Patriot1; 08-21-18 at 04:54 AM.
08-21-18, 06:24 AM
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Shoelace end (aglet) or FD cable end tapping the crank? This last one may change or come/go with FD position.
I would definitely service the pedals; in my experience even high-end ones come skimpily lubricated and adjusted too tight.
I would definitely service the pedals; in my experience even high-end ones come skimpily lubricated and adjusted too tight.
08-21-18, 07:39 AM
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That's a nice looking bike!
MKS pedals are nice pedals and generally are greased from the factory but it can't hurt to take a peek if you can remove the cap. You shouldn't have to tighten the pedals too much; pedaling tends to finish the job for you.
It could just be the picture but the front derailleur cable looks to be stretched too tight (actually both cables do). You generally want a bit more slack than what it looks like in the pic. I'm surprised the mechanics did not point this out to you at all. This could be the source of your intermittent front shifting as well as the ticking noise. Could be the cable is getting pulled slightly with movement and causing the FD to move slightly and rub against the chain.
MKS pedals are nice pedals and generally are greased from the factory but it can't hurt to take a peek if you can remove the cap. You shouldn't have to tighten the pedals too much; pedaling tends to finish the job for you.
It could just be the picture but the front derailleur cable looks to be stretched too tight (actually both cables do). You generally want a bit more slack than what it looks like in the pic. I'm surprised the mechanics did not point this out to you at all. This could be the source of your intermittent front shifting as well as the ticking noise. Could be the cable is getting pulled slightly with movement and causing the FD to move slightly and rub against the chain.
08-21-18, 07:40 AM
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Thank you for all the great advice! As it’s about time I hit the bed in the Southern Hemisphere I will have to try some of these fixed tomorrow but I will definitely refit my pedals with a bit more grease.
im guessing standard grease would be fine?
im guessing standard grease would be fine?
08-21-18, 07:58 AM
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Could you check to see if the noise goes away while standing up to pedal up hills?
If it does go away, this narrows things down. I mention this because the seatpost/frame interface can make a ticking noise like this due to moisture getting in there. It is a good idea to remove the post, clean the old dirt and grease off, apply new grease, then reinstall. The seatpost clamp bolt can also be cleaned, regreased then torqued to the correct specification.
Another possibility would be that the ticking only happens when standing and not while sitting. If this is the case, it would be beneficial to check your steerer tube/fork pretensioning plug. The threads on the bolt should be greased and it should be tightened down securely and the the same for the aheadset preload bolt. Same with the stem bolts, clean, grease then torque.
if you have a threaded bottom bracket in an aluminum frame these can become noisy when the B.B. threads are not fully greased and things not quite torqued down enough.
So there are 3 things to check other than pedals. Be sure to let everybody know the answer to the mystery.
BTW: when MKS say their new pedals come pre-greased this apples to the pedal bearings, not the pedal axles. The pedal axles where they mount to the cranks should always be greased or given anti-seize compound.
If it does go away, this narrows things down. I mention this because the seatpost/frame interface can make a ticking noise like this due to moisture getting in there. It is a good idea to remove the post, clean the old dirt and grease off, apply new grease, then reinstall. The seatpost clamp bolt can also be cleaned, regreased then torqued to the correct specification.
Another possibility would be that the ticking only happens when standing and not while sitting. If this is the case, it would be beneficial to check your steerer tube/fork pretensioning plug. The threads on the bolt should be greased and it should be tightened down securely and the the same for the aheadset preload bolt. Same with the stem bolts, clean, grease then torque.
if you have a threaded bottom bracket in an aluminum frame these can become noisy when the B.B. threads are not fully greased and things not quite torqued down enough.
So there are 3 things to check other than pedals. Be sure to let everybody know the answer to the mystery.
BTW: when MKS say their new pedals come pre-greased this apples to the pedal bearings, not the pedal axles. The pedal axles where they mount to the cranks should always be greased or given anti-seize compound.
08-21-18, 12:54 PM
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I had a similar problem with same/similar pedal. I had just had my bottom bracket replaced at LBS. He said he took the pedal off and replaced it. After doing that, he said he could not hear the click. He thought something was bent with my pedal. Since I had a pedal at home, I told him I would replace the pedal. After picking up the bike, I have yet heard the noise again. I now have about 500 miles of no noise.
I think all the LBS did was remove and replace the pedal. May not solve your problem but easy to do. Good luck.
I think all the LBS did was remove and replace the pedal. May not solve your problem but easy to do. Good luck.
08-21-18, 05:25 PM
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Could you check to see if the noise goes away while standing up to pedal up hills?
If it does go away, this narrows things down. I mention this because the seatpost/frame interface can make a ticking noise like this due to moisture getting in there. It is a good idea to remove the post, clean the old dirt and grease off, apply new grease, then reinstall. The seatpost clamp bolt can also be cleaned, regreased then torqued to the correct specification.
Another possibility would be that the ticking only happens when standing and not while sitting. If this is the case, it would be beneficial to check your steerer tube/fork pretensioning plug. The threads on the bolt should be greased and it should be tightened down securely and the the same for the aheadset preload bolt. Same with the stem bolts, clean, grease then torque.
if you have a threaded bottom bracket in an aluminum frame these can become noisy when the B.B. threads are not fully greased and things not quite torqued down enough.
So there are 3 things to check other than pedals. Be sure to let everybody know the answer to the mystery.
BTW: when MKS say their new pedals come pre-greased this apples to the pedal bearings, not the pedal axles. The pedal axles where they mount to the cranks should always be greased or given anti-seize compound.
If it does go away, this narrows things down. I mention this because the seatpost/frame interface can make a ticking noise like this due to moisture getting in there. It is a good idea to remove the post, clean the old dirt and grease off, apply new grease, then reinstall. The seatpost clamp bolt can also be cleaned, regreased then torqued to the correct specification.
Another possibility would be that the ticking only happens when standing and not while sitting. If this is the case, it would be beneficial to check your steerer tube/fork pretensioning plug. The threads on the bolt should be greased and it should be tightened down securely and the the same for the aheadset preload bolt. Same with the stem bolts, clean, grease then torque.
if you have a threaded bottom bracket in an aluminum frame these can become noisy when the B.B. threads are not fully greased and things not quite torqued down enough.
So there are 3 things to check other than pedals. Be sure to let everybody know the answer to the mystery.
BTW: when MKS say their new pedals come pre-greased this apples to the pedal bearings, not the pedal axles. The pedal axles where they mount to the cranks should always be greased or given anti-seize compound.
08-21-18, 05:29 PM
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I had a similar problem with same/similar pedal. I had just had my bottom bracket replaced at LBS. He said he took the pedal off and replaced it. After doing that, he said he could not hear the click. He thought something was bent with my pedal. Since I had a pedal at home, I told him I would replace the pedal. After picking up the bike, I have yet heard the noise again. I now have about 500 miles of no noise.
I think all the LBS did was remove and replace the pedal. May not solve your problem but easy to do. Good luck.
I think all the LBS did was remove and replace the pedal. May not solve your problem but easy to do. Good luck.
08-21-18, 05:51 PM
#15
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Thank you for your help and the more I think about it the more I think it might be due to the pedals and I would be happy to replace and I could try swapping them with the clip in pedals I have just to see. Do you have any recommendations for pedal brands that have a similar aesthetic to MKS pedal? Ideally flat pedals with good grip and made out of metal
08-22-18, 04:41 AM
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Could you check to see if the noise goes away while standing up to pedal up hills?
If it does go away, this narrows things down. I mention this because the seatpost/frame interface can make a ticking noise like this due to moisture getting in there. It is a good idea to remove the post, clean the old dirt and grease off, apply new grease, then reinstall. The seatpost clamp bolt can also be cleaned, regreased then torqued to the correct specification.
Another possibility would be that the ticking only happens when standing and not while sitting. If this is the case, it would be beneficial to check your steerer tube/fork pretensioning plug. The threads on the bolt should be greased and it should be tightened down securely and the the same for the aheadset preload bolt. Same with the stem bolts, clean, grease then torque.
if you have a threaded bottom bracket in an aluminum frame these can become noisy when the B.B. threads are not fully greased and things not quite torqued down enough.
So there are 3 things to check other than pedals. Be sure to let everybody know the answer to the mystery.
BTW: when MKS say their new pedals come pre-greased this apples to the pedal bearings, not the pedal axles. The pedal axles where they mount to the cranks should always be greased or given anti-seize compound.
If it does go away, this narrows things down. I mention this because the seatpost/frame interface can make a ticking noise like this due to moisture getting in there. It is a good idea to remove the post, clean the old dirt and grease off, apply new grease, then reinstall. The seatpost clamp bolt can also be cleaned, regreased then torqued to the correct specification.
Another possibility would be that the ticking only happens when standing and not while sitting. If this is the case, it would be beneficial to check your steerer tube/fork pretensioning plug. The threads on the bolt should be greased and it should be tightened down securely and the the same for the aheadset preload bolt. Same with the stem bolts, clean, grease then torque.
if you have a threaded bottom bracket in an aluminum frame these can become noisy when the B.B. threads are not fully greased and things not quite torqued down enough.
So there are 3 things to check other than pedals. Be sure to let everybody know the answer to the mystery.
BTW: when MKS say their new pedals come pre-greased this apples to the pedal bearings, not the pedal axles. The pedal axles where they mount to the cranks should always be greased or given anti-seize compound.
Anyway I purchased some bike grease and took off the pedals, cleaned the thread, greased them and put them back on, then I did the same with the seat post, cleaned all the old grease, removed the bolt and cleaned that, then re greased everything and put it back together.
Just went for a quick ride around the block and to my surprise there were no more clicks when I pedalled!
SO I can't say for sure which was the fix but I have a feeling it was the pedals but it was good to re grease the seat post as it didn't seem to have any grease on it and needed a clean anyway.
Thanks again,
-Henry
08-22-18, 06:11 AM
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08-22-18, 06:15 AM
#18
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I had a similar problem with same/similar pedal. I had just had my bottom bracket replaced at LBS. He said he took the pedal off and replaced it. After doing that, he said he could not hear the click. He thought something was bent with my pedal. Since I had a pedal at home, I told him I would replace the pedal. After picking up the bike, I have yet heard the noise again. I now have about 500 miles of no noise.
I think all the LBS did was remove and replace the pedal. May not solve your problem but easy to do. Good luck.
I think all the LBS did was remove and replace the pedal. May not solve your problem but easy to do. Good luck.
Last edited by u235; 08-22-18 at 06:27 AM.
08-22-18, 07:37 PM
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First of all I would like to thank everyone for their answers on this thread, this mysterious clicking noise has been driving me nuts for months and I thought I would just be stuck with it especially since it after 3 services it was still the same.
Anyway I purchased some bike grease and took off the pedals, cleaned the thread, greased them and put them back on, then I did the same with the seat post, cleaned all the old grease, removed the bolt and cleaned that, then re greased everything and put it back together.
Just went for a quick ride around the block and to my surprise there were no more clicks when I pedalled!
SO I can't say for sure which was the fix but I have a feeling it was the pedals but it was good to re grease the seat post as it didn't seem to have any grease on it and needed a clean anyway.
Thanks again,
-Henry
Anyway I purchased some bike grease and took off the pedals, cleaned the thread, greased them and put them back on, then I did the same with the seat post, cleaned all the old grease, removed the bolt and cleaned that, then re greased everything and put it back together.
Just went for a quick ride around the block and to my surprise there were no more clicks when I pedalled!
SO I can't say for sure which was the fix but I have a feeling it was the pedals but it was good to re grease the seat post as it didn't seem to have any grease on it and needed a clean anyway.
Thanks again,
-Henry
Good too that you greased the pedal threads. The grease will not only eliminate noises, it will also make future removal easier. Be sure to come back after a few rides and wipe away any squeeze out with a clean paper towel. Oozing grease always collects tons of dirt.
08-26-18, 07:44 PM
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First of all I would like to thank everyone for their answers on this thread, this mysterious clicking noise has been driving me nuts for months and I thought I would just be stuck with it especially since it after 3 services it was still the same.
Anyway I purchased some bike grease and took off the pedals, cleaned the thread, greased them and put them back on, then I did the same with the seat post, cleaned all the old grease, removed the bolt and cleaned that, then re greased everything and put it back together.
Just went for a quick ride around the block and to my surprise there were no more clicks when I pedalled!
SO I can't say for sure which was the fix but I have a feeling it was the pedals but it was good to re grease the seat post as it didn't seem to have any grease on it and needed a clean anyway.
Thanks again,
-Henry
Anyway I purchased some bike grease and took off the pedals, cleaned the thread, greased them and put them back on, then I did the same with the seat post, cleaned all the old grease, removed the bolt and cleaned that, then re greased everything and put it back together.
Just went for a quick ride around the block and to my surprise there were no more clicks when I pedalled!
SO I can't say for sure which was the fix but I have a feeling it was the pedals but it was good to re grease the seat post as it didn't seem to have any grease on it and needed a clean anyway.
Thanks again,
-Henry
08-27-18, 09:24 AM
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Henry,
Congrats on solving the clicking noise ! The Sylvan pedals are great pedals but like all rotating stuff on the bike the need maintenance occasionally. I neglected my Sylvans and was getting a clicking noise like yours which seemed to be coming from one side. I rotated the pedals with my fingers and they felt rough when I turned them. One side worse than the other. I removed them from the bike, disassembled, cleaned and greased them. Discovered tiny ball bearings and didnt lose any somehow After reassembly they were nice and smooth when rotated. That cured the click noise.
Bob
Congrats on solving the clicking noise ! The Sylvan pedals are great pedals but like all rotating stuff on the bike the need maintenance occasionally. I neglected my Sylvans and was getting a clicking noise like yours which seemed to be coming from one side. I rotated the pedals with my fingers and they felt rough when I turned them. One side worse than the other. I removed them from the bike, disassembled, cleaned and greased them. Discovered tiny ball bearings and didnt lose any somehow
After reassembly they were nice and smooth when rotated. That cured the click noise. Bob
08-27-18, 01:58 PM
#22
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I'm about to go through this same process of finding the clicking noise. I did a 60 mile ride yesterday and it was just driving me crazy. I bought a click type torque wrench at Harbor Freight for cheap to help get everything back together too. I'm guessing BB, but it could be pedals or chainring bolts or seatpost or shoes or or or... I just hope when I'm out of parts to try I've also fixed the problem.
08-27-18, 02:41 PM
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Believe it or not, that clicking COULD be the qr skewers. Take them out, lightly oil them, don't forget to oil the camming lever pivots, and reinstall the qr's and make sure they're not too loose. This fixed the noisey BB in a friend of mine's Cervello.
Jon
Jon
08-27-18, 10:15 PM
#24
Senior Member
That's one more to add to the list but unlikely. I just removed both wheels to swap the tires front to back and back to front so I'd think I'd have changed something, but the click was still there. The 25 tire I put in the back didn't fit through the frame with any clearance so it rubbed. I swapped it with the 23 up front where it fit.
Most likely it is the BB as I've had problems with the retaining bolt loosening in the past, and in fact it almost came completely loose just a few weeks ago. I can feel that in the pedals when it happens. It is an older FSA SLK crank, from before the mods they made to prevent this.
Most likely it is the BB as I've had problems with the retaining bolt loosening in the past, and in fact it almost came completely loose just a few weeks ago. I can feel that in the pedals when it happens. It is an older FSA SLK crank, from before the mods they made to prevent this.
08-28-18, 05:58 PM
#25
Senior Member
and just to add a little irony, my old beater bike that I ride to work, a Trek 7000 from 1990, is dead silent. No clicks, no chain noise, no shifting noise, no brake squeal, nada. It isn't just luck that it is like this, but I maintain both bikes equally and my good road bike is noisy and my junker is silent. Go figure...