debade

Hi,


My 1994 Trek 2120 has a broken freewheel. When I spin the wheel, it creates a crunching noise. Shimano no longer makes the HG 70 12-28 7 speed freewheel. I am not sure anyone does but I am hoping there is a substiture. It has been suggested by a couple of bike stores that a new wheel build would be the best way to go, I am assuming for fit. This is now my commuter bike so I am wanting to limit the investment. Here is the Trek spec sheet for that year https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/trek/94/Trek94.pdf


The bike mechanics suggested a new wheel. It is currently a 32 spoke wheel but I could be convinced to go higher (36). They did not know for sure but given the age, they expect the hub is a 126. (I guess the popular size today is a 130). I am not sure what this means or how to determine the size I have. I am assuming that is a measurement between the drop-outs. But his is part of the education I need.


Both mechanics suggested buying a new wheel. I am OK with that. One mentioned Velo Orange who does have a 126 hub. Here is the link to VO https://velo-orange.com/collections/...heel-hub-126mm My understanding is if I go with a built wheel, I would specify the number and size of the spoke, the rim I want, free wheel for a 7 speed and the frame . They would ship the wheel to me and I would need to move the cassette which I can do *with a freinds help or take it to the LBS. I will not forget the rim take if not included on the build.


Do I have this mostly right or did I miss something so obvious that you have not had an opportunity to stop laughing yet? How do I determine the 126 vs 130 size? If I order a wheel, do you have a suggestion for a wheel builder that makes a competitively priced reliable durable wheel? ( I do not need a fast or over durable wheel since I carry vs little.)


Thanks

J.Higgins 

If you dont want to spend money on it as a commuter, then there is no need to spend money on a new wheel. Get yourself a 7-spd freewheel on Ebay and you'll be good to go. OR... You could send your freewheel to Pastor Bob and he'll make it as good as new. https://www.freewheelspa.com/

Bill Kapaun

Measure DO spacing like this-


I suspect you have a broken axle or bad/cone bearings over a bad FW.
You are not confined to a 12-28 cassette. A 13-23/26 may be useful?
You don't have a FW AND cassette. (A 12-28) 7 speed IS a cassette.
They are not the same-
Freewheel or Cassette?

dedhed

I'd be surprised if that bike uses a freewheel. specs list 105SC hub set and that would be a cassette.
I also wouldn't be surprised if it's spaced at 130mm or possibly 128 to allow 126 or 130 hubs in the same frame.
My 91 400 was even a cassette and spaced 130

Cassettes are out there if you want to look hard enough.
If it's spaced 128/130 it opens up a lot of upgrades. Depends on how much $$ you want to spend

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Sto...-/392008477555

Andrew R Stewart 

dedhed has it correct. A freewheel and a cassette are not interchangeable without also changing the hub (or wheel). 7 speed cassettes are very common (as are 7 speed freewheels too). Expect to need to replace the chain at the same time if you want smooth chain running and not wear out the cogs any faster then needed. Andy.

Mad Honk 

debade,
With out taking the wheel off the bike and doing an inspection you won't know what is wrong. As Bill points out it could be a broken axle. Or a bad free hub, or a combination of both. When you do actually get the wheel off and do an inspection you will have a better idea of what to expect. It may be the simple axle replacement or even a similar freehub replacement. Both much cheaper than a new wheel. Smiles, MH

debade

Thanks to all for the education. Per Sheldon Brown it is Shimano Cassette Freehub, showing characteristic bulge on the right side of the body. It is also a 126 unfortunately. I will be asking a friend to help me out with taking it apart and helping me with an inspection. In the meantime, I have checked out the stuff on ebay and the Pastor's site. I am very grateful for your support.

ThermionicScott 

Please don't think you need to spend $130 to get another 12-28 cassette. That's highway robbery IMO.

$15 gets you a part that will do the job every bit as well, it just doesn't look as fancy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-CS-...e/283212325875

Sometimes freehub bodies get gritty or gunked up, but can be saved by flushing and re-oiling them. We can elaborate on the procedure when you're ready.

Bill Kapaun

Here's a link to your hub.
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FH-1055 / HB-1055, 105SC

Wilfred Laurier

As above, you don't need a 'freewheel' - you need the ratchet mechanism that is part of the hub, called the 'freehub body' - this is what is making the grinding noise. Shimano 7 speed freehub bodies are still available, I think. If not, you can probably find a similar hub to use as a parts donor.

The 12-28 cassette is a separate part from the freehub body, and may or may not need to be replaced. Even if it is very worn, as long as the chain still meshes with the teeth then you can keep riding. But since the bike is quite old I would expect the cassette (gear cluster), chain, and chainrings (gears on the crank) should be changed at the same time.

debade

I wanted to thank you all again and give an update.

A friend came over and guided me through the project. We took most everything apart and greased the ball bearings. The wheel is spinning again. I am not sure how long it will last but I am hopeful I will get a few more miles. The cost was some grease and a glass of Peanut Butter Stout I tapped in my kegerator a couple of days ago. I'd treat each of you to a beer if I could. Thanks

seedsbelize 

Whenever an lbs mechanic recommends a new wheel, I take it to mean he doesn't want to mess with what can be accomplished for far less $ than the cost of a new wheel.

Bill Kapaun

It also may mean that you'd be wasting money trying to save a piece of crap and they want to avoid you being ripped off.

Andrew R Stewart 

I just deleted a post saying much the same. Only I wasn't able to say it well, hence the deletion. I also tried to add that a shop has a different obligation then a home repair has. That obligation ios one of a transaction being part of the situation. When $ transfers hands expectations mushroom up and can obscure what the service guy is really saying. So many shops have decided to only offer service that stays fixed for a reasonable length of time, least they get returns./complaints because of make shift methods that don't stay fixed very long. Andy

davidad

If you need a 7 sp. shimano freehub body e-mail me and I can send you one. It will be slightly used, but in excellent condition.

countalmaviva 

Debade, here's a link to the exploded view of your hub:
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FH-1055-1093A.pdf

You can note the shape of the interface on the drive side of the hub body (to the left of part #17 in this PDF). I believe later freehub bodies (part #14 ) have different interface patterns. AFAIK, everyone is right about the availability of 7s cassettes -- you can definitely find them. 7s freehub bodies you may not find NOS, but I believe someone also mentioned taking one from a donor hub. I'll second attempting to clean it out, however, which it sounds like you did.

I'm in the middle of a similar project, and I can share that another option is to use an 8s cassette and leave off the smallest cog. Works just fine.

It also might be helpful to note that the OLD of your hub may not actually match the spacing of your dropouts. I believe this was alluded to earlier, but to clarify: you could have rear dropouts spaced at 128mm. When you remove the rear wheel, the frame "springs" outward to that dimension. Helpful for using with either 126mm or 130mm hubs...

Peanut butter stout...yum!
Oliver H.