CH46-e can't find description for this Bottom Bracket
#1
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CH46-e can't find description for this Bottom Bracket
The last time I serviced a bottom bracket The Police were the biggest band in the world.
....I have some slight play in the bottom bracket so I guess I can service it so I need parts.
Is there anything other than ch46-e I need to know when getting parts for this?
I can't find this on the net....what am I missing?
thanks.
presto
....I have some slight play in the bottom bracket so I guess I can service it so I need parts.
Is there anything other than ch46-e I need to know when getting parts for this?
I can't find this on the net....what am I missing?
thanks.
presto
#2
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
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It helps to know what kind of bike you have (at least), whether it is the stock BB (if you know), what kind of crank it's fitted to (many cranks have dedicated BB's now), etc. Help us out, please.
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Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#3
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Under "spec" You need to find the threading (BSA- Italian), spindle length (L), and shell width (D), then buy the equivalent shimano un-55
Under "spec" You need to find the threading (BSA- Italian), spindle length (L), and shell width (D), then buy the equivalent shimano un-55
#4
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Okay... The Police disbanded in 1986 so you probably have a caged/loose ball bearing bottom bracket. To service it will require removing the cranks. Before you do anything else measure how far the crank spindle comes out from the bottom bracket. You don't have to do it this way, but it is easier to measure it now and write down the drive/non-drive side dimensions than measuring it later after you forgot how the spindle was installed. Then remove the drive side lock ring, and the and threaded race as well as the threaded drive side race.
After checking the condition of the races, you can either replace the bottom bracket with a new one, or just get new ball bearings (not necessary if they look good) and put it all back together.
The reason for measuring the length of the spindle is to know if it is symmetrical (same on both sides) or asymmetrical. If you need a new bottom bracket it might be easier to get a cartridge type with the same spindle length. These are symmetrical so you have to decide if can use a longer spindle, match the drive side and add the difference to the non-drive side.
John
After checking the condition of the races, you can either replace the bottom bracket with a new one, or just get new ball bearings (not necessary if they look good) and put it all back together.
The reason for measuring the length of the spindle is to know if it is symmetrical (same on both sides) or asymmetrical. If you need a new bottom bracket it might be easier to get a cartridge type with the same spindle length. These are symmetrical so you have to decide if can use a longer spindle, match the drive side and add the difference to the non-drive side.
John
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Edit function no longer works on my phone with the new software. The lock ring is on the non-drive side.
John
John
#6
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Thread Starter
I have an Opus Lugano (2012 model?). It is a commuter I bought second hand a couple of years ago.
I don't know but I would bet it is the stock BB.
The crank is a pro-A36 single spindle.
Under the specs it simply says ch-46-e.
My eyes are not so good but I did not see anything on the outside to indicate more.
So in order to find out more about it without taking it out is the best course of action to hope a local Opus dealer (I would expect they just take them out to look at them and I don't want that) or Opus will help me?
Mike
#7
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That's almost certainly a BSA threaded BB shell. You'll need to find verify the shell width (68 or 73mm) and spindle length.
I don't know why the link comes up as ********** but it shows the likely BB model currently in the bike.
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I don't know why the link comes up as ********** but it shows the likely BB model currently in the bike.
********************
#8
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Thread Starter
I do have a buddy that says he probably has the tools. I will try to tighten or take a quick look further and clean/grease the internals. It is hard to believe these are generally called unserviceable.
I called the local bike shop and they said in most cases they just get rebuilt (simple procedure from what i saw) and they charge $30 CDN (on bike) and that sounds reasonable to me, they may be able to do it fast but me finding bearings and the time and I have $30, I like that. Just have to book a date.
Still any tips on this works for me. Is a cleaning or tightening normally all that is needed?
I am also guessing that the part costs a bit of money?
#9
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This is, I suspect, a Chin Haur bottom bracket. See if you can find something similar here (they apparently don't make the "e" anymore, but do make "4e" model)
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There are a couple of Chin Haur BBs on ebay, check it out. The catalog above, btw, states that the 4E model is a 110.5mm spindle in a 70mm BB. The ebay ad states that the width of a 2E model is 68mm, with a 110mm spindle length. Both the catalog and the ebay add claim standard BSA 1.37x24tpi threads.
Measure your bottom bracket to check whether you have a 68mm or a 70mm width. Then measure the spindle length. Assuming a 110 (110.5) mm length, you should then be able to find several brands of BBs that will fit.
********************
There are a couple of Chin Haur BBs on ebay, check it out. The catalog above, btw, states that the 4E model is a 110.5mm spindle in a 70mm BB. The ebay ad states that the width of a 2E model is 68mm, with a 110mm spindle length. Both the catalog and the ebay add claim standard BSA 1.37x24tpi threads.
Measure your bottom bracket to check whether you have a 68mm or a 70mm width. Then measure the spindle length. Assuming a 110 (110.5) mm length, you should then be able to find several brands of BBs that will fit.
#10
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thanks....I checked out the link.
I do have a buddy that says he probably has the tools. I will try to tighten or take a quick look further and clean/grease the internals. It is hard to believe these are generally called unserviceable.
I called the local bike shop and they said in most cases they just get rebuilt (simple procedure from what i saw) and they charge $30 CDN (on bike) and that sounds reasonable to me, they may be able to do it fast but me finding bearings and the time and I have $30, I like that. Just have to book a date.
Still any tips on this works for me. Is a cleaning or tightening normally all that is needed?
I am also guessing that the part costs a bit of money?
I do have a buddy that says he probably has the tools. I will try to tighten or take a quick look further and clean/grease the internals. It is hard to believe these are generally called unserviceable.
I called the local bike shop and they said in most cases they just get rebuilt (simple procedure from what i saw) and they charge $30 CDN (on bike) and that sounds reasonable to me, they may be able to do it fast but me finding bearings and the time and I have $30, I like that. Just have to book a date.
Still any tips on this works for me. Is a cleaning or tightening normally all that is needed?
I am also guessing that the part costs a bit of money?
With these readily available and reasonably priced it's not worth any labor to "rebuild" a unit rather than replace.
https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-BB-UN5.../dp/B007FP6HEQ
Shimano UN55 Bottom Bracket | Jenson USA
Or even cheaper UN26
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5019-113/Alivio-BB-UN26-68x113mm-ENG-Square-Tapered
For not much more than $30 US I can buy the part and the tool.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-B...m-Bracket-Tool
Last edited by dedhed; 05-29-18 at 11:51 AM.
#11
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I would not waste my time "rebuilding" that unit. Chin Haur is garbage. I wouldn't waste my time or money with anything other than a Shimano UN-54 or 55 (which are reasonably bulletproof) in the proper width and spindle length.
With these readily available and reasonably priced it's not worth any labor to "rebuild" a unit rather than replace.
Or even cheaper UN26
For not much more than $30 US I can buy the part and the tool.
With these readily available and reasonably priced it's not worth any labor to "rebuild" a unit rather than replace.
Or even cheaper UN26
For not much more than $30 US I can buy the part and the tool.
so the ch46 really means nothing aside from it being a manufacturer number?
I just have to get the matching measurements and a un26 or whatever from another company would work?
#12
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The CH 46 means nothing as noted. You need to know the thread type, likely BSA (English), shell width, 68mm, 70mm, 73mm. and spindle length.
On spindle length you may not find the exact same width but "close enough" usually erring to a longer rather than shorter spindle so as not to have chain rings hitting the frame. Also be aware that the existing spindle may be asymmetrical with the longer side typically on the drive side. The best thing to usually do is pull the old one before buying the new one so it can be measured. If you need the bike it can be put back in until the new one is in hand. If you do the work yourself plan on getting a correct length bolt to hold the tool in place and know which direction it needs to turn. Do a bit of research ahead of time.
On spindle length you may not find the exact same width but "close enough" usually erring to a longer rather than shorter spindle so as not to have chain rings hitting the frame. Also be aware that the existing spindle may be asymmetrical with the longer side typically on the drive side. The best thing to usually do is pull the old one before buying the new one so it can be measured. If you need the bike it can be put back in until the new one is in hand. If you do the work yourself plan on getting a correct length bolt to hold the tool in place and know which direction it needs to turn. Do a bit of research ahead of time.
#13
aka Phil Jungels
CH46 is a heavy lift rotary winged aircraft ---- no wonder you are having problems.