Seattle Forrest

Should be fine, even with hills.

bcpriess

You might want lower (sub 1:1) gearing for another reason. On bumpier gravel, you want to be able to spin faster uphill so you get more gyroscopic movement to keep better balance.

wipekitty

I have the same bike, running 700x35 Clement Xplor USH. It's been a great bike for learning gravel!

I swapped out the cassette for an 11-32, which worked just fine despite the short cage RD. This has helped quite a bit with getting up our steep gravel climbs.

taz777

That’s great to know! It’s been hard to get owners’ views on this bike as it’s quite rare and Google searches come up with very little info.

I should be getting the bike later this week as it’s in the retailer’s workshop being assembled and set up at the moment.

It would be good to exchange info and tips on this bike in due course.

wipekitty

I just realized that I was buzzed from gravel grinding yesterday and spoke too soon...I have a slightly older and lower-end version of the Prosecco, with all mechanical components.

It appears that the main difference in geometry is that they lowered the stack and seat tube height on yours. Still, you're right, there are not a lot of Blue bicycles around!

taz777

No problem - you're still a Blue bike owner and more communicative than the company is!!!

kokak

I'm using 46/30 Chainrings with an 11-36 cassette and have been very happy with how it works on both my Uphill climbs and Downhill descents.

JayNYC

Wilmingtech

I just bought that same bike (The Ex, not Exg, same frame different components) with the same gearing. Thanks for posting all the pics and write up in your other post. It was a steal of a deal and your post helped convince me to buy it. This bike is setup more for touring than gravel (BB Drop is too big to call it a cyclocross bike) but can take wheels up to 38c.

For the low end in the downhills, you'll be fine in a 46x11 (4.18 ratio). My current road bikes highest gear is 12x50 (4.17 ratio). The difference in speed at 90rpm in those two gearings is pretty much the same. Unless you are trying to better your Strava sprint times it wont make much of a difference. I rarely drop to my 12 unless I am full out on a downhill. On the flats pushing 50x14 (3.57 ratio) at 25mph is about as much as I have and can maybe hold that for about 1.5 - 2 miles before I burn out. So you should be fine on the 46x11 on the low end.

On the high end - the gearing (36x28 or 1.29 ratio) is just enough to get an in-shape rider up a tough incline on a paved road. We have some tough little climbs around here (1.5 - 2 miles or so with 10-15% grades on parts of the climbs) and I can make it with my road bike in a 34x25 (1.36) albeit I am grinding at 60rpm up the tough parts of the climb and 75-85 rpm up the rest of the climb. I really need to get a 34x28 (1.21 ratio) setup for these climbs to keep me from grinding through the toughest parts. So on paved road, the 36x28 (1.29) would be just enough on the toughest climbs. On gravel road climbs you definitely need lower gears. A 36x32 might be better suited for gravel and even lower if you are going up back mountain trails with slight obstacles to traverse.

Going forward on this bike I will probably switch out to compact gears in front (50/34) with a 12-30 or 12-32 (if I can get away with the short cage derailleur) and use it for winter riding and exploring all the dirt and gravel roads I regularly ride past. It'll probably end up being my all around go-to long ride, exploring, gravel road beater bike. I'll keep a road specific bike for the Strava segments on the paved roads and maybe an off road specific bike in the future....

-Sean

PS - For reference, gear ratio is how many times your rear wheel turns per full revolution of the cranks. Bike Calc has an easy to use site for reference.