Numenor

I am looking forward to see result of painting. I would like to repaint Raleigh Competition bike form 1981

USAZorro

I'm here to expose you.

Needs this .

I know that the "all's well that ends well" rule is in effect, but I would not have used that tool to remove the paint from a 753-tubed bicycle frame. I certainly don't wish ill upon my fellow C&V enthusiasts, but I think that too heavy a hand with that could have put the frame at risk of compromise.

Mr. 66

^^^Thanks about the wire wheel, that one is not stiff, was used lightly throughout the paint and rust removal. Most of the paint strip was chemical.

I did some Sammy Hagar Red!

Millstone

Niiiice.... That bike in those colours is one of my grails I think. I've always wanted one as a kid

I am not looking for one though. But if I happen to see one for sale at either a reasonable price, or in very good shape (preferably both ) I'd snatch it up in a heartbeat.

Anyway.
Please continue!

Mr. 66

Teaser

USAZorro

If I ever want to get "Crayola" repainted, I'll check in with you. Very impressed with your execution.

Mr. 66

More progress I went through and did some more unmasking. The lug details worked out great, but I did have some yellow release from the primer on the red trap mask. I did some brush touch, and went with a second coat on the the yellow banding.

Mr. 66

My bike had no badge, I was able to pluck this one off a crashed rustout moldy oldie.

Mr. 66

After a little touch of paint



My brush used, only the finest sable hair will do, Windsor & Newton 7 Series made in England

I've had this brush for 30yrs

Mr. 66

Oh my lord the 2 stage clear coat is insanely difficult to shoot, is extremely beautiful. I'm going to have to investigate that application. It was like shooting glue blobs, I cloud not get a good pressure, air/paint mix dialed in. Of coarse, yes coarse not course, yes forward bold the chit on. Respirator R51HE never felt so good to use that and constant air circulation, don't mess around safety first.

The red looks much better to the match than before. All the pictures looked better than life, now life looks as good as the pictures. You may notice, I masked the black from the clear. I think it would have been fine but that was just in case of the event that the 2k was not compatible with the 2 stage clear. There was a concern that the Black could bubble under. I waited about 45 minutes with still soft delicately pealed away the tape from the staycaps and all. That worked good.

cudak888 

Looks like you'll probably be able to even it out with some careful wet sanding. Good luck - its a beautiful frame!

-Kurt

Mr. 66

And the wet sanding begins

repechage

Clear is I think the treacherous layer to apply
you really need good light to watch the reflections and change in gloss.
many can be reduced a bit to help with viscosity- most are not designed for Syphon feed spray equipment- top tank
this is especially true for metallics by the way.

Forgot- many reducers are designed for a temperature range- too cold or too hot when spraying- trouble.


I think the best way is to use an integrated system- all colors same brand and paint type.
easy to suggest, not so easy to afford.

i like Chromabase as it shrinks down really well, provides the thin paint of yesteryear appearance.

Clearcoat over graphics is best done with a test
some graphic providers can suggest safe top coats from other customer feedback.

i would really think through the spray plan. I started painting bike frames when I was 10, I learned a lot about where to start and where to finish by trial and error. Being able to control the orientation of the frame as you spray really improves the task.

by looking around I saw a clever approach for applying graphics- a Near seatpost sized rod projection out from the workbench and set the frame over it from the seat tube- frame is steady- two hands available to set the graphics. If required a few turns of tape to add some friction.

the making of the lug windows would have drives me batty. Pretty sure the original finishes on these bikes were much more basic- brush paint fill after clear with a different solvent used that would not attack the clear, easy clean / trim up.

Mr. 66

Yes, siphon feed I used, not the first time I've used the wrong tools for a job. Lol. My clear coat used a medium temp catalyst, I was at about 70' . I may have been at the low end of temperature range. I definitely needed a reducer, but I made the square peg fit the round hole in the big picture of life.

I agree with you on being able to control the frame orientation. I did three different hangs, , from the seat clamp, bottom bracket, and headtube. That was still difficult given the fact that I was only using loose wire to hang. The frame would push away from me as I sprayed.

Heres a few more shots of the progress.

Mr. 66

Details Traditional Campy. I decided to go with the '76 Super Record rear derailleur it is flat black like my frame details, and it is original styling. Both have been pantograph with the the frame paint to match.

old_dreams

Came across this just now and thought it would fit well in this thread

Mr. 66

That's a cool video, thanks for posting I enjoyed that very much. I'm very close to having mine complete. I still have some detail tasks on the frame, the bottom bracket needs sanding and the drain vents need paint.

repechage

Mr. 66- I think you have learned a lot and were very good at sharing.
Not my time, but I would start over. The majority of the expenses have been spent. You are close, but the frame deserves the pro level effort, I think you can achieve it.
And buy some 3M fineline masking tape.

Mr. 66

^Thankyou

big chainring 

These giuys

Mr. 66

The final touch of detail.






Some wetsand and polish is in order.

Mr. 66

Since I had the paint out.

Mr. 66

The red worked good, I think the yellow on globe needs more.

Mr. 66

After a little bit of drama I've been able to make progress. The drama? In cleaning the threads of the dropouts I had an adjuster snap in the dropout. I started to act like I was building something French, ####ing crap crap crap crap and ####!!!!!!

I decided to drill from the back end of the dropout. Very slow and tedious I was able to dimple the screw's end and I drilled a small amount. I then tried the next size up in hoping the bit would catch. No go it started to drift, I went back to the smaller bit to get the piloting back, that worked.i tried to jam a small screw driver, it didn't grab. I went back to the larger, still no go and more drift. To the smalller again and back to the larger. I drilled very well on the screw's centerline completely through. Next I grabbed a spare spoke, mixed up a couple of drops of 24hr J&B weld. I put a dot of the epoxy on the hole and a dash on the thread of the spoke. Like buying a gun I had a 24hr cooling time.


Hooray! Success, in the meantime during my cool down period I was able to make a few more advancements. Out came the paint for details, the headset was installed with my nonprofessional press. Bottom bracket has been installed.







The head of the pop rivit is small and the shaft to big, still looking for the right fasteners.

old_dreams

These have been reported to fit correctly. Seller supplies two sizes (6 rivets) in the order but I expect one of the sizes will work for you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RALEIGH-C...IAAOxy4t1Sf5FE