jdawginsc 

I’m glad the quick release problem resolved itself! Less scary than a loose stem or front wheel, but disconcerting!

Random thought...the bike would look super cool with a Brown Brooks saddle and brown faux leather bar wrap.

Strawbunyan

i definitly dont want to end up in a cartoon, riding down the road eondering where my handlebars went 🤣🤣🤣

And yes, yes it will, LOL. Brown is my favorite "color" so i dont need much of a push to add it.

Strawbunyan

What a difference a chain makes.....the drive train feels so much smoother and "lighter"



Made sure to leave the pin in this time, thank you all gor the tip. One more tip, if you play motley crue while you are doing the work it makes it much easier.

Mr. 66

That still looks high, when it’s high like that it will still work, however you may need more overshift and trim to avoid cage rub. Overshift can lead to overshoot, chain drop and possibly damage or injury

Strawbunyan

3mm gap between the highest teeth on the large chainring when shifted onto the smallest.
Did I misunderstand the instructions? I am good at that 😬

jdawginsc 

Weird. It looks closer in this picture than the other one above. Just be sure the stop screw is set well, to prevent the overshoot.

No, you understood the instructions perfectly well. Some derailleurs seem to have a larger vertical swing than others.

Aubergine 

Given that they are Biopace rings, I'd try setting the gap between derailleur and chainring high point at 1.5 mm rather than 3.

daverup 

I think you will probably be fine with that gap. Make sure the limit screws are setup and go for a ride.

Strawbunyan

i didnt have a 1.5mm AK so I used a 2mm. It is now 2MM at the highest tooth and 6MM at the lowest point.


I tried to get the limit screws set so the FD just barely avoids rubbing the chain during operation. The road should be dry in about an hour and im gonna whip it around the block and see what happens.



Edit: rode it around the block a few times and kept going back and forth between the chain rubbing the FD and the FD not being willing to shift into the smaller ring.
after about an hour of adjustment back and forth i think i finally got it right...it seems that adjusting it and just spinning the pedals does not accomplish thr same goal as actually riding it...im assuming the added tension and tortion of traction make a difference in the settings because "right" in the shop is not the same thing as functional on the road.


2nd edit: do not see anything rubbing anymore but still had a little bit of noise that was bothering me. I fixed it pretty easily....i put on some headphones and rode like the wind. Everything is working great it seems. Feels awesome. Shifts are smooth and it is handling the roads around here very well. Next step is to leave the block and bomb down one of the 4 hills out of my neighborhood. Wish me luck.
if you dont hear from me again, I am in the bottom of one of these hollars.

Strawbunyan

Where i live people dont believe in keep their dogs in fences or tied up or inside so 100s of them just run the streets. One of the local terriers races me when i go passed his yard and had been beating and keeping up with me easily on the MTB. NOT TODAY! I Smoked his butt, he is gonna have to stick to chasing the pill heads on the rusty huffies now(not a joke, they are the only other people around here i see on bikes)
I found uphill with this gearing to be alot less painful than i imagined it would be. I dont like spinning anyway, the act of turning my legs 5 times for one turn of the wheel feels horrific to me, always has. I want to get a sticker for my stem that says "Just pedal harder"...having said that, my legs hurt but not the muscles really, more like all my connective tissues in my hips, pelvis and inner knees. I dont know how much of that is me getting back into shape and how much is to be contributed to saddle height and position or pedal setup. I guess if it doesnt improve after a while it is a fit issue and not a fitness issue...time will tell i suppose.
also, i dont know why, maybe the geometry or the lower bars? But standing up on this bike feels way more natural and pleasant than it did on the other bike.

Strawbunyan

Quick PSA, watch your fingers when shifting on these downtube shifters....the front tire will eat them if you are not concious of it. 😅😅😅🤣🤣🤕

jdawginsc 

Yeah, leg fit and positioning is critical. You don’t want scrunch leg disorder.

Good rule of thumb is heel on the axle (flip the pedal), and when you are fully seated, there should be an ever so slight bend in the knee.

Too high and the hips sway too much, too low and you are using the quads to much. Also, with the toe clips locked in, you can pull a bit to reduce the push on the other side.

Classtime 

That tire is a kitten. The spokes will hurt.

Strawbunyan

Ive been searching around about proper fitment for toe clip pedals but all I can find is "how to install them"
does this appear to be enough foot in? Too much?
i never paid much attention to this on flats because i could constantly adjust my feet as needed.

Strawbunyan

really glad the ole digits didnt make it that far down....i am already missing enough skin from my crooked unbendable fingers 😅😅😵‍💫

Aubergine 

It does not look like enough to me. I'd try to get another 3/4 or 1 inch on those pedals.

jdawginsc 

Tough to get the right fit if you have big foot disorder, which is why clipless pedals were a game changer for foot positioning.

Being small footed (9/42), even though reasonably tall (5’11”), I used a large clip without issue.

Maybe some of the larger footed folks on here could provide some direction!
@merziac
Spaghetti Legs
@gugie
Portlandjim
etc...

daverup 

Dissenting Unpopular Opinion warning,
I am afflicted with big foot disorder, along with weird foot shape. This along with my non-competitive attitude means I don't do toe clips, clip-ins, or any sort of gizmo to attach my feet to the pedals. I wear athletic shoes that fit my feet and will not waste my time on bike shoes that don't fit.
I've already confessed these crimes against road biking in the "Spanish Inquisition" thread a few years back, so I don't mind mentioning it here.
Plain quill pedals hold my feet in place just fine and I don't mind losing the upstroke advantage.
You won't find me lying on the side of the road with road rash, bike securely clipped between my legs.

Classtime 

Size 12-13 here and I use LL clips. MKS makes some.

jdawginsc 

Unfortunately, the pedals I sent have the proprietary inline mounting clips. Clips are finicky little guys.

SP-11s were the perfect solution. Platform base with regular clip mounts.

Strawbunyan

I am not much bigger. I wear a 10.5 at 6' tall
I am not so much worried about upstroke or any racing type shennanigans (even though I am the type of guy who would race anything, even a shopping cart, if given the chance) I dont even tighten the straps down when i ride...I just have nostalgic attachment to toe clip pedals for some aweful reason....other than the drop bars, the toe clip pedals are my favorite part of the bike to look at 😆😆

I love these pedals.

I went ahead and adjusted them so my foot fits deeper.
I also removed the toe in(holy crap......thats...thats where that comes from?) To a more centered neutral position. I actually think that is what was causing the discomfort, i naturally stand and walk toe out,especially in my right leg thanks to a shattered pelvis about a decade ago, enough so that if i tode my bike like that my heels would smack the frame. If i am still having issues i will take them out of the middle position and try some toe out.

Mr. 66

With those shoes you do probably need the LL, and taller toe perhaps. I use the L size clip with the Asics, I wear 10-10.5 size

Strawbunyan

after i sort out my saddle i will start a pedal pile and make sure I get some of those. I would like to get some dedicated riding shoes but since i ride to work and have no place to store my sneakers at said place of work i sorta have to make due duel purposing my dailys.

gugie 

Well, you know what they say, big feet, big....shoes. I have one set of pedals with toe clips and straps that gets moved from vintage bike to vintage bike, mostly for organized vintage bike rides (Eroica, Cino, etc.) Everything else is mostly SPD, a couple bikes have platform pedals on them. One of the biggest reasons I left toe clips behind is foot pain. Toe clipse against my toes, straps cutting off circulation, etc. I did find the largest toe clips I could find in a used bin at at local co-op, this is what goes on my toe clipped pedals. My feet are too wide for most quill pedals, so I do the ol' trick and use track style pedals - there's no "upswept bit" at the end of the pedals that force my foot inwards towards the crank, often with interference issues.

merziac

So....... I found I need somewhat stout shoes that match the fit of the clips.

Ideally the ball of your foot is to be over the pedal axle and stay there for the most part.

I use oldschool clips, straps and pedals, no cleats, not huge feet and a bit narrow.

Left ankle is crooked from a break when I was 14, knee has also been blown out for a long time so it oscillates around on the pedal and needs a lot of float.

I use extenders to get my feet out and away from the frame and double gate clips for good containment, stability and ease of in and out.

I have cycling shoes that have been ground flat and then Vibram protective soles added, keep the straps just right for my foot to slip in and out at stops.

None of this really matters as I cannot stand the aesthetic of clipless pedals on C+V so I would have oldschool pedals no matter what.