Chain"slipping when shifting into low
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Chain"slipping when shifting into low
I am about ready for Eroica with my ItalVega . I just mounted the freewheel I got from Pastor Bob with a 28 tooth low
and set the FD/RD to shift smoothly and it worked great on the stand. I went out to the street and noticed that the chain seems to "slip " before actually engaging the large rear cog. I noticed this before with the 26 tooth low freewheel but now that I am challenging some steep hills behind my house in preparation for Eroica it seems more annoying and pronounced. If I shift slowly well ahead of time it seems to be better. If I wait until I really need to down shift it is not good at all! Once I had to do a circle down hill, shift it into gear and then continue the climb. I am running the Nuovo Record RD and FD with a 41 tooth low up front and 53 high. I am suspecting that the new chain I bought at my LBS might be the problem and I am not sure how to determine the cause of the problem or what the correct chain measurements should be for the 5 speed freewheels. I measured with calipers and the new chain measures about .010" narrower than the Regina chain on my other bike I had at the house. Joe
and set the FD/RD to shift smoothly and it worked great on the stand. I went out to the street and noticed that the chain seems to "slip " before actually engaging the large rear cog. I noticed this before with the 26 tooth low freewheel but now that I am challenging some steep hills behind my house in preparation for Eroica it seems more annoying and pronounced. If I shift slowly well ahead of time it seems to be better. If I wait until I really need to down shift it is not good at all! Once I had to do a circle down hill, shift it into gear and then continue the climb. I am running the Nuovo Record RD and FD with a 41 tooth low up front and 53 high. I am suspecting that the new chain I bought at my LBS might be the problem and I am not sure how to determine the cause of the problem or what the correct chain measurements should be for the 5 speed freewheels. I measured with calipers and the new chain measures about .010" narrower than the Regina chain on my other bike I had at the house. Joe
Last edited by Kabuki12; 03-05-19 at 03:00 PM.
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You should be using an 8-speed chain. Is that what they sold you? 9 and 10 speed chains may still work but might cause some of the symptoms you describe. Also, if you're using a 5-speed freewheel there's a fairly big "no man's land" between gears where slippage as you describe is a relatively normal thing where there are big jumps between gears. Not sure what you can do about that.
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My 6 speed freewheel works much better with a 8-speed chain. I also have to let off the pressure on the crank for it to shift smoothly. If I do not there is a hesitation and then a sudden hard thunk when the chain engages the teeth.
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Have you doubled checked the cable tension and hanger/derailleur alignment? Even small differences have caused me problems at the extreme gears of the freewheel.
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It sounds like you are using one of the European-made freewheels, some of which turn out to be very slippy during shifting events when modern (as wide as 7-8s) chains are used.
Past a certain date, perhaps 1970 or so, bikes like the Schwinn Varsity used Japanese-made freewheels, but I have noticed that on the earlier ones with European-made freewheels, I can not count on the shifting to work right (without slippage) if I install a modern chain of any kind.
Modern chain does work well on certain of the European freewheels, even some of the older ones, but on many it does not work well at all.
A good choice in some such situations is to try a Sedisport chain (no, not one of the post-sedisport sachs/sedis chains).
The Sedisport allows the benefits of narrower chain, and often works well on older European freewheels (even using older derailers having a larger chain gap in certain gears, mainly because it is stiffer than the later chains).
Past a certain date, perhaps 1970 or so, bikes like the Schwinn Varsity used Japanese-made freewheels, but I have noticed that on the earlier ones with European-made freewheels, I can not count on the shifting to work right (without slippage) if I install a modern chain of any kind.
Modern chain does work well on certain of the European freewheels, even some of the older ones, but on many it does not work well at all.
A good choice in some such situations is to try a Sedisport chain (no, not one of the post-sedisport sachs/sedis chains).
The Sedisport allows the benefits of narrower chain, and often works well on older European freewheels (even using older derailers having a larger chain gap in certain gears, mainly because it is stiffer than the later chains).
Last edited by dddd; 03-05-19 at 08:20 PM.
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Generally, when everything was working, then you install a new chain and suddenly have this problem, that is the proof one (or more) cogs is worn out.
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That was the case for me when I replaced the chain on a Shimano 105 6 speed freewheel. The new chain and freewheel were fine when on the work stand, but when I took the bike out to ride it the slippage was horrendous. I posted on Bikeforums and a member suggested that very issue. I found a used but almost like new freewheel on ebay. When I switched out the old freewheel with the replacement it all worked great. I believe I tried a 9 speed chain at some point, but it did not work as well as the 8 speed.
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It feels like the chain is between gears and "skates " along or slips before actually picking up the rear cog. The condition was there before I changed freewheels and I really don't know before I changed chains as I just resurrected this bike from the dead. The old chain was really rusty so I never got a chance to tell. The new freewheel is pristine as it just came from the freewheel Spa . The old freewheel is in very good condition but shows use. They both "slip". I am wondering if I change the chain from one of my other bikes to see if that helps? Joe
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I have done a visual and it seems good. There is no sign of any trauma to the derailleur hanger, the dropout seems to be in good order. The RD seems to follow well when shifting on the stand and the rear cog picks up the shift quickly. It is just under pressure like approaching a hill that this happens . It seems to be when I am using either of the front sprockets so I don't think it is a chain line issue. Joe
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Try one or more different chains and let us know how that works.
It's the free slippage that pretty much tells me that this isn't a case of worn-out cogs, and that this freewheel came from a freewheel pro is redundant evidence of same at this point.
I'll repeat here that I believe that possibly Sedisport or (especially) older wide (~8mm width) derailer chain is able to fix this problem on this particular freewheel.
What exact chain and freewheel are you now having this problem with? Some modern chains have more-pronounced tooth-catching features than others, so it might still be possible to use modern chain for it's various other advantages.
It's the free slippage that pretty much tells me that this isn't a case of worn-out cogs, and that this freewheel came from a freewheel pro is redundant evidence of same at this point.
I'll repeat here that I believe that possibly Sedisport or (especially) older wide (~8mm width) derailer chain is able to fix this problem on this particular freewheel.
What exact chain and freewheel are you now having this problem with? Some modern chains have more-pronounced tooth-catching features than others, so it might still be possible to use modern chain for it's various other advantages.
Last edited by dddd; 03-06-19 at 03:27 PM.
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It feels like the chain is between gears and "skates " along or slips before actually picking up the rear cog. The condition was there before I changed freewheels and I really don't know before I changed chains as I just resurrected this bike from the dead. The old chain was really rusty so I never got a chance to tell. The new freewheel is pristine as it just came from the freewheel Spa . The old freewheel is in very good condition but shows use. They both "slip". I am wondering if I change the chain from one of my other bikes to see if that helps? Joe
I have a maillard hylicomatic that does this. I've ridden with it for a year and I've unconsciously altered my shifting distances. It barely ever skates now, but if I try I can easily find that in between gear place. It's still annoying though because the rare time it does skate is when I want to get out of an intersection with alacrity.
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Joe, so sorry you are encountering this issue. The freewheel is a Regina, correct? I don't believe this has been suggested, but since this only occurs on the largest sprocket, try moving the low limit screw in order that the RD over shoots towards the spokes ever so slightly--- but not enough to jump the sprocket and end up in the spokes or the protector. You'd need to trim to stop the chatter after the shift. I just find that a NR or Rally RDs needs to always "over shift" ever so slightly on some larger gears. I hope this helps.
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I have a maillard hylicomatic that does this. I've ridden with it for a year and I've unconsciously altered my shifting distances. It barely ever skates now, but if I try I can easily find that in between gear place. It's still annoying though because the rare time it does skate is when I want to get out of an intersection with alacrity.
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Joe, so sorry you are encountering this issue. The freewheel is a Regina, correct? I don't believe this has been suggested, but since this only occurs on the largest sprocket, try moving the low limit screw in order that the RD over shoots towards the spokes ever so slightly--- but not enough to jump the sprocket and end up in the spokes or the protector. You'd need to trim to stop the chatter after the shift. I just find that a NR or Rally RDs needs to always "over shift" ever so slightly on some larger gears. I hope this helps.
Last edited by Kabuki12; 03-06-19 at 05:05 PM.
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Try one or more different chains and let us know how that works.
It's the free slippage that pretty much tells me that this isn't a case of worn-out cogs, and that this freewheel came from a freewheel pro is redundant evidence of same at this point.
I'll repeat here that I believe that possibly Sedisport or (especially) older wide (~8mm width) derailer chain is able to fix this problem on this particular freewheel.
What exact chain and freewheel are you now having this problem with? Some modern chains have more-pronounced tooth-catching features than others, so it might still be possible to use modern chain for it's various other advantages.
It's the free slippage that pretty much tells me that this isn't a case of worn-out cogs, and that this freewheel came from a freewheel pro is redundant evidence of same at this point.
I'll repeat here that I believe that possibly Sedisport or (especially) older wide (~8mm width) derailer chain is able to fix this problem on this particular freewheel.
What exact chain and freewheel are you now having this problem with? Some modern chains have more-pronounced tooth-catching features than others, so it might still be possible to use modern chain for it's various other advantages.
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You might want to take Bob's advice first, as just a turn of the screw might(?) be all it needs.
(Hopefully you can do that and a quick road-test well before Sunday's ride.)
And if that works, as I've said before, the modern chains do have their advantages (more clearance at the front derailer cage, tolerant of scant lubrication, less friction, lighter, etc.).
(Hopefully you can do that and a quick road-test well before Sunday's ride.)
And if that works, as I've said before, the modern chains do have their advantages (more clearance at the front derailer cage, tolerant of scant lubrication, less friction, lighter, etc.).
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