Chainring/Cog gear ratio question(s)
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Chainring/Cog gear ratio question(s)
Say for the purposes of discussion you have two different pairs of chainrings/cogs intended for use on exactly the same bike.
The first chainring and cog combination works out to be say 75 gear inches (on that bike)
The second chainring and cog combination have different numbers of teeth but also works out to be 75 gear inches (on the same bike)
so let's say for example the first chainring has less teeth than the second chainring and, unless i've been at my crack pipe (like again), that must mean that the first cog has more teeth than the second cog.
If both work out to be 75 gear inches, is there a difference in your ride?
this ultimately leads me to ask: if you want a different gear ratio, does it really matter whether you achieve it by altering the chainring size or by altering the cog size?
The first chainring and cog combination works out to be say 75 gear inches (on that bike)
The second chainring and cog combination have different numbers of teeth but also works out to be 75 gear inches (on the same bike)
so let's say for example the first chainring has less teeth than the second chainring and, unless i've been at my crack pipe (like again), that must mean that the first cog has more teeth than the second cog.
If both work out to be 75 gear inches, is there a difference in your ride?
this ultimately leads me to ask: if you want a different gear ratio, does it really matter whether you achieve it by altering the chainring size or by altering the cog size?
#2
GONE~
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,747
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In a nut shell, you'll feel a slight difference if the frames are different.
The difference is not in the drive train itself but more on the frame's geometry, tires, rear wheel, frame material/stiffness and crank length. If the X bike is of a stiffer material and have shorter chain stays, the acceleration should be theoratically be faster than the Y frame with a longer chain stays and things like that.
If the both of the bikes are spec'd exactly the same, then you won't even notice.
The difference is not in the drive train itself but more on the frame's geometry, tires, rear wheel, frame material/stiffness and crank length. If the X bike is of a stiffer material and have shorter chain stays, the acceleration should be theoratically be faster than the Y frame with a longer chain stays and things like that.
If the both of the bikes are spec'd exactly the same, then you won't even notice.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 7,239
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Say for the purposes of discussion you have two different pairs of chainrings/cogs intended for use on exactly the same bike.
The first chainring and cog combination works out to be say 75 gear inches (on that bike)
The second chainring and cog combination have different numbers of teeth but also works out to be 75 gear inches (on the same bike)
so let's say for example the first chainring has less teeth than the second chainring and, unless i've been at my crack pipe (like again), that must mean that the first cog has more teeth than the second cog.
If both work out to be 75 gear inches, is there a difference in your ride?
The first chainring and cog combination works out to be say 75 gear inches (on that bike)
The second chainring and cog combination have different numbers of teeth but also works out to be 75 gear inches (on the same bike)
so let's say for example the first chainring has less teeth than the second chainring and, unless i've been at my crack pipe (like again), that must mean that the first cog has more teeth than the second cog.
If both work out to be 75 gear inches, is there a difference in your ride?
Using larger rings & cogs will add a little weight for those components and also for the extra chain links required. But it'll result in better longevity and marginally less friction in the drivetrain. It may also feel a little smoother if the alternative smaller cog is really small. For reasonable size components the differences will be very minor. Off road the smaller chainring would have an advantage in increased ground clearance.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#5
Pleasurable Pain
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 354
Bikes: Voodoo Rada, KHS Alite 4000, Smith & Wesson Tactical, Diamondback Response
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I would also say that it wouldn't make much difference. For instance I ride a 53/38 in front and a 12-27 in back. Without doing the math, someone could get a similar gear ratio using a compact crank 50/34 or what have you, and a 11-23 in the back. You could argue that the compact+11-23 weighs less, but wears out sooner since the chain will have more contact with all the teeth more.
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OR
Posts: 139
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#7
``````````````
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: san jose
Posts: 763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Last section of this page: https://surlybikes.com/blog/spew/spew...d_gearing_101/