danmyersmn

I have been thinking on and off for the last few years about trying my hand at one of these nice old classics and I finally did it. I picked this up tonight and my plan is to treat it down for a cleaning and put it back together as a rider. Hopefully most of it can be rehabbed/refreshed.

First up the seat post and stem are frozen in place. I started with PB blaster and will need to come up with a game plan with each piece until it's naked.

cb400bill

Looks like a nice way to start your C&V riding. Good luck with the stuck stem and post!

billytwosheds 

Nice pickup, the paint looks like it's in pretty good shape too.

Everyone will have their own recommendations, but if you can flip the bike upside down and have gravity help PB Blaster work its way into the steering tube and seat tube, you might be in luck.

GL with the project!

look566 rider

Congrats! Looks like a good starting point.

Bianchigirll 

Very nice. Those Formula 2 frames ride pretty well. I hope the post and stem come out without too much trouble. I'd give the cranks a shot too and if they are Omega cranks be very careful taking them off.

I highly recommend Kool Stop replacement brake blocks too.

danmyersmn

3alarmer 

...PB Blaster is OK for normal use, but for stuff like stuck stems and posts, mix ATF from the auto parts store with acetone 50/50 , and put some in an acetone resistant plastic bottle (an old Triflow squeeze bottle works well). Apply it to the post or stem insertion interfaces, top and bottom.

Don't get it on plastic or rubber parts, and don't let it sit on the paint.

danmyersmn

Wow ATF/Acetone is my new favorite thing. Both the post and stem came out today. I also was able to take off everything else except the bottom bracket.



I have a couple questions if any one can offer any advice.

Is this the correct bottom bracket wrench I need? Park Tool HCW-18 Bottom Bracket Spanner | Jenson USA

I also removed the chain and the deraileur has one broke pulley. I need to replace both of them. Do I need to buy a specific set or are there multiple options available? Any links of good options would be appreciated.

I need to remove the front and rear axles for a good cleaning. I don't have any cone wrenches and need to buy some. Would anyone know the size needed for these hubs?

I need to remove the rear cassette. Is there a specific tool for this? This is my first time working with Campy stuff and it doesn't look like my cassette lock-ring tool is going to fit this?

One of the downtube shifters has a broken bushings and the little spring on the end of the nut fell off trying to remove the nut. Are these pieces available other than finding a full set on ebay?

Last but not lease, How bad would I betray all that is holy and good with this fine Bianchi by putting a Canyon VCLS on it?

danmyersmn

One more question. Thanks everyone for any help that you offer. I know you will! Are these wheels worth using or are they a crash waiting to happen. The Spoke eyelets concern me. Any thoughts?

satbuilder 

Are the hubs Campagnolo Nuovo Tipo?

danmyersmn

I will look tonight. I thought I took a ton of pics so I could research more today. I guess I didn't get what I needed on the hubs.



According to the documentation I have they should be Gipiemme Sprint. They do have Campagnolo skewers if I recall what I was looking at. I seem to remember seeing Gipiemme on the hubs but I need to eyeball it again to be 100% certain.

satbuilder 

Most likely the cone nut is 14mm, large locknut is 17mm.

danmyersmn

Awesome, tx!!

rfmarotti

Safest of all is to bring the wheels to an LBS and check. I have guessed incorrectly in the past.

malcala622

Wont the carbon seatpost crack or seize if installed in a steel frame?

danmyersmn

I don't know myself but the old one is going back in. The vcls is going to sit on the shelf again.

exmechanic89

Very nice bike.

3alarmer 

..the problem with wheels that are well corroded like that in all the eyelets is not that they will assplode and kill you, but that they become almost impossible to true and tension. So if they are now pretty straight, and the tensions are tight enough to ride OK (and they very well might be), you can ride them with pretty good results until something goes wrong with them so that they need work that requires twisting the spoke nipples.

Sometimes you can free them up with cursing and penetrating oil. But it's usually a laborious process.

sthrondsen

I am doing the exact same thing as you with the same 1987 Volpe. I am curious, do you happen to know the seat post size? My seat post bolt was rusted through. How is your progress coming along?

ryansu

I typically use two park tool cone wrenches one is a 13/14 combo (front) and the other is a 15/16 combo (rear) that said I don't work on Campy stuff and it can sometimes be different so check online on with your LBS to be sure.

Cyclist0108

I've had one in my modern steel frame for 4 years with no issue (except I wish it would seize a tiny bit more -- it slips sometimes).

FrantikNacho

Hello, I manage to find myself a Bianchi Trofeo like yours. I have a question: Do the "Trofeo" decal is also printed on the left side of the top tube? Because mine is missing.
Looking forward to your response.

shoota 

Good call. Any updates on the build?

You should quote whomever you're asking the question to so they get a notification. Cheers.