Trek 620 All Road Bike
#1
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Trek 620 All Road Bike
Im on my first ride (test ride). Slammed the rear axle of a 700c wheel into the rear of the dropouts to easily fit 35c tires. The Dia Compe G brakes don't stop too well, I need a shorter quill stem adapter and the rear rack is not too level. Other than that im pretty happy with it so far.
Im not sure if those period bars are going to survive. Modern bars with a flare are too nice. I have the quill stem adapter ready for whatever i decide to do.
Thanks.
Im not sure if those period bars are going to survive. Modern bars with a flare are too nice. I have the quill stem adapter ready for whatever i decide to do.
Thanks.
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#3
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Looks like a nice bike, but a bit small if the saddle and bar height are adjusted for you.
Dual pivot calipers with good pads would greatly improve the braking. Those may be the original, and consequently very hard pads on there ATM.
Dual pivot calipers with good pads would greatly improve the braking. Those may be the original, and consequently very hard pads on there ATM.
#4
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Sjtaylor if you take DFrosts advice on newer dual pivots I happen to have a pair of new Tektro nutted brakes (for vintage frames) that I have never found a use for, I might be willing to make you a deal if interested. Message me if that sounds interesting. Nice 620
#5
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Im on my first ride (test ride). Slammed the rear axle of a 700c wheel into the rear of the dropouts to easily fit 35c tires. The Dia Compe G brakes don't stop too well, I need a shorter quill stem adapter and the rear rack is not too level. Other than that im pretty happy with it so far.
Im not sure if those period bars are going to survive. Modern bars with a flare are too nice. I have the quill stem adapter ready for whatever i decide to do.
Thanks.
Im not sure if those period bars are going to survive. Modern bars with a flare are too nice. I have the quill stem adapter ready for whatever i decide to do.
Thanks.
I'll reiterate what's been said so far-
While it looks like that's a pretty big bike to begin with- it looks too small for you, but as long as it's safe- if it's comfortable for you and that's what you're used to- that's what's important.
Again- if you have the bike setup to how you like it- the brake levers are at a pretty non-ergonomic angle. Old, non-aero levers are meant to be pulled back from in the drops, so you'll usually see them farther into the bend. Most of the time, you can cheat and pull back from on top of the hoods and still have good leverage on the levers. You have yours positioned so you have to pull them *down* in a manner that you must really be working hard to pull. I used to like my bars rotated up some- so the ramps are level or slightly up (until I started using B177 bars)- I've seen some people with bars and levers positioned like that and are perfectly happy... I think if you want decent leverage, you might need to have the levers positioned to where you can actually pull on them- If you want your levers positioned here- you might be better off with some non-aero levers with better leverage.
As mentioned- it looks like you have the stock 37 year old brake pads on the brakes- a new set of rubber will do wonders.
As far as the rack goes, see if you can bend the rail/stay thing a little more sharply closer toward the end of the stay thing... Otherwise you *might* get a touch more bend if you swap the rails and mount to the outside of the rack boss and try it that way... Probably not- but it's worth a shot.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#6
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Looking closer at the original pic, the rack horizontal attachments are stainless “straps” that can easily be bent and moved on the rack to rotate the rack toward horizontal.
Didn’t suggest that earlier since I thought those were the welded-on aluminum rods, which don’t tolerate much bending.
ryansu ’s offer in Post #4 of nutted Tektro dual pivots is a good one, assuming they are the correct reach. There aren’t many sources of those.
You would also get an improvement from levers with “aero” cable routing. They provide a mechanical leverage advantage over your existing brake levers.
Didn’t suggest that earlier since I thought those were the welded-on aluminum rods, which don’t tolerate much bending.
ryansu ’s offer in Post #4 of nutted Tektro dual pivots is a good one, assuming they are the correct reach. There aren’t many sources of those.
You would also get an improvement from levers with “aero” cable routing. They provide a mechanical leverage advantage over your existing brake levers.
Last edited by Dfrost; 09-23-20 at 02:45 PM.
#7
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The nutted tekros are R539 fwiw
#8
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The Trek 600 in the photo measures 25” from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. I’m 6’3”, 36” inseam. The bars are an 1-1/2” too high. The stem adapter is long and the wedge is hitting the downtube joint. I need a shorter adapter to correct it. The seat is correct height for me.
My Frankenbike Peugeot is a better fit for me. The frame came from a discard pile so I don’t know where it came from or if it is a custom sized frame. I wish I could find another frame with the same fit as the Peugeot.
My Frankenbike Peugeot is a better fit for me. The frame came from a discard pile so I don’t know where it came from or if it is a custom sized frame. I wish I could find another frame with the same fit as the Peugeot.
#9
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at a guess I would say that Pug is a 26" frame I don't believe Peugeot had a custom shop based on the bike boom Peugeot site and the 78 brochure for a UO-8 (total guess -probably wrong now I see those chrome socks on the rear triangle) the biggest frame was 26"/ 66 cm
#10
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Slide the bars down so the brake levers can be used in the drops as well as on the hoods.
If you need the bikento be set up how it currently is, it may not be the correct size. Just thinking out loud...
If you need the bikento be set up how it currently is, it may not be the correct size. Just thinking out loud...