Best road wheel for under 1K
#2
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If You have to have name brand, then Shimano C24 is what I always recommend. Although you have to shop around to get them under $1K
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Best for you...or best overall? There needs to be some consideration of the circumstances. Dura Ace 9000 c24 would be pretty sweet if I were 50 lbs lighter. But I'd be better off with new November Ti's or Boyd Altamonts with (at least) 24f/28r spokes.
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Last edited by dtrain; 09-18-15 at 12:52 PM.
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I agree with dtrain. Naming brands and models that aren't made for you is not going to help any. It isn't about brands for you, it is about the necessary custom design. If I were you, I would get some Flo 30s built up with whatever level of Shimano hubs you want to pay for. They are all suitable. 32 holes front and rear with full diameter (2.0 mm) spokes. Probably cost you under $600 depending on the hubs. Those Flo rims are seriously overbuilt. Then the answer to your question, "What are the best wheels under $1000," will be simple. It will be your wheels.
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 09-18-15 at 12:11 PM.
#6
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Best is so subjective at that price. Something like the C24 is a quality light-weight wheel. Alternatively, there's plenty of more aerodynamic rims, potentially like budget Reynolds or something. Beyond that there's a variety of smaller builders. Wheels like Boyd, Flo and November or going to a full custom wheelset. There's also the ebay carbon rim route.
Also, if I recall, the OP is CNC2204 Destroyer of bicycles, so I'd be highly amused to see him versus a lightweight rim like a C24.
To the OP at your price point pick 2:
1) Light (<1500g)
2) Durable
3) Aerodynamic
It depends a lot on your priorities, especially for light vs aerodynamic.
Also, if I recall, the OP is CNC2204 Destroyer of bicycles, so I'd be highly amused to see him versus a lightweight rim like a C24.
To the OP at your price point pick 2:
1) Light (<1500g)
2) Durable
3) Aerodynamic
It depends a lot on your priorities, especially for light vs aerodynamic.
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#8
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Come on...they're wheels fercrissakes, made for the mass market, likely just fine for 95% of the casual cyclists that are likely to ask the question...nothing is "best" so any response in this thread is strictly personal preference.
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A good round alloy wheel with a good bearing set and as cheap as you can go. A wheel is a wheel unless you are in the tour de france and have a big fat contract with a wheel maker.
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There's a mechanic im friends with who left the Spesh dealer a year ago i got the TARMAC from.
We actually worked at the same big named motorcycle shop but different years in the early 80's.
He works at a competitor bike shop.
I will go to him and ask what he recommends before pulling the trigger.
I'm looking for wheel types, names & models to make my own mind.
I want to hear what others like and why, i'll take it from there.
Last edited by CNC2204; 09-18-15 at 12:17 PM.
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Except he is not just any rider, so he can't just ride any wheels. He is, as gsa103 just said, " CNC2204 Destroyer of Bicycles".
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#13
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There's a mechanic im friends with who left the Spesh dealer a year ago i got the TARMAC from.
We actually worked at the same big named motorcycle shop but different years in the early 80's.
He works at a competitor bike shop.
I will go to him and ask what he recommends before pulling the trigger.
I'm looking for wheel types, names & models to make my own mind.
I don't "need" people telling me what i "need".
I want to hear what they like and why, i take it from there.
But now, sir, you are on your own..at least as far as I am concerned.
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Here you go. They are available in 28/32 for ~$600.
November Bicycles: Race smart. - Alloy Nimbus Ti Wheelsets
November Bicycles: Race smart. - Alloy Nimbus Ti Wheelsets
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"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
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"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
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Damn it, why did you ask us? That is really annoying. You refuse to accept the knowledge you profess to want. If there is anybody on Earth who needs people telling him what he needs, it is you. There are no stock wheels in any brand made for you. Zip, zilch, nada, bupkis. Telling you all those names is just going to induce you to make the exact same mistake again you have already made multiple times.
But now, sir, you are on your own..at least as far as I am concerned.
But now, sir, you are on your own..at least as far as I am concerned.
Life is about the power of choice my friend.
Trying to buy a good set of wheels why would that bother you ?
I'm not sold on H+ & sons per say.
#17
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Here:
YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset
Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.
Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).
Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.
Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset
Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.
Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).
Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.
Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
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Here:
YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset
Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.
Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).
Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.
Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset
Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.
Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).
Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.
Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
The wheels look very nice ...
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Those Archetypes (H + Sons) mentioned yesterday are heavy and relatively inexpensive. But the point is that they'd hold up to you way better than pre-builts with fewer spokes (like Mavics).
If you are willing to spend a little more, just transfer some of the main concepts (wider, more spokes, hand rather than machine built) up the foodchain. I have a set of wheels with rims that are just as wide and deep (Pacenti SL23's), with 28/32 spokes, and run 400g lighter (r45's, CX-rays). They were more expensive...but made to hold up to a clyde just as well. Mine were handbuilt locally - though (in the end) not all that different from the November Ti offering linked above.
If you are willing to spend a little more, just transfer some of the main concepts (wider, more spokes, hand rather than machine built) up the foodchain. I have a set of wheels with rims that are just as wide and deep (Pacenti SL23's), with 28/32 spokes, and run 400g lighter (r45's, CX-rays). They were more expensive...but made to hold up to a clyde just as well. Mine were handbuilt locally - though (in the end) not all that different from the November Ti offering linked above.
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"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
Last edited by dtrain; 09-18-15 at 12:40 PM.
#21
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But to answer your question, the reason trying to buy a good set of wheels would bother me, is that I hate people being happy. My advice was just to steer you wrong so I could laugh my ass of when you mistakenly followed my specious recommendation. But hey, you're too smart for me. Yessiree.
#22
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Here:
YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset
Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.
Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).
Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.
Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset
Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.
Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).
Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.
Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
#24
Senior Member
Explain “difference”. Performance difference? Tubulars minimize rotating weight. Huge insurmountable difference at the highest performance levels.
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Yes, that's right. You hit it on the head. I am obsessed with how you spend your money and what you buy. But I have an appointment with my shrink in about an hour, and I am sure he will help me get over it. Wait, I already got over it in my last post. Whew? Now I just have to figure out what to do with all the money I just saved.
But to answer your question, the reason trying to buy a good set of wheels would bother me, is that I hate people being happy. My advice was just to steer you wrong so I could laugh my ass of when you mistakenly followed my specious recommendation. But hey, you're too smart for me. Yessiree.
But to answer your question, the reason trying to buy a good set of wheels would bother me, is that I hate people being happy. My advice was just to steer you wrong so I could laugh my ass of when you mistakenly followed my specious recommendation. But hey, you're too smart for me. Yessiree.
I'm saving all this wheel stuff to my PC favorites, it's all good.