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Best road wheel for under 1K

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Best road wheel for under 1K

Old 09-18-15, 11:40 AM
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Best set of road wheels for under 1K

Tell me ...
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Old 09-18-15, 11:45 AM
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If You have to have name brand, then Shimano C24 is what I always recommend. Although you have to shop around to get them under $1K
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Old 09-18-15, 11:55 AM
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Best for you...or best overall? There needs to be some consideration of the circumstances. Dura Ace 9000 c24 would be pretty sweet if I were 50 lbs lighter. But I'd be better off with new November Ti's or Boyd Altamonts with (at least) 24f/28r spokes.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:00 PM
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Shopping around, looking at all options ...
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Old 09-18-15, 12:02 PM
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I agree with dtrain. Naming brands and models that aren't made for you is not going to help any. It isn't about brands for you, it is about the necessary custom design. If I were you, I would get some Flo 30s built up with whatever level of Shimano hubs you want to pay for. They are all suitable. 32 holes front and rear with full diameter (2.0 mm) spokes. Probably cost you under $600 depending on the hubs. Those Flo rims are seriously overbuilt. Then the answer to your question, "What are the best wheels under $1000," will be simple. It will be your wheels.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:08 PM
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Best is so subjective at that price. Something like the C24 is a quality light-weight wheel. Alternatively, there's plenty of more aerodynamic rims, potentially like budget Reynolds or something. Beyond that there's a variety of smaller builders. Wheels like Boyd, Flo and November or going to a full custom wheelset. There's also the ebay carbon rim route.

Also, if I recall, the OP is CNC2204 Destroyer of bicycles, so I'd be highly amused to see him versus a lightweight rim like a C24.

To the OP at your price point pick 2:
1) Light (<1500g)
2) Durable
3) Aerodynamic

It depends a lot on your priorities, especially for light vs aerodynamic.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CNC2204
Tell me ...
For you, probably some November Ti wheels. They are supposed to be very good, especially for riders that aren't lightweights.

GH
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Old 09-18-15, 12:11 PM
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Come on...they're wheels fercrissakes, made for the mass market, likely just fine for 95% of the casual cyclists that are likely to ask the question...nothing is "best" so any response in this thread is strictly personal preference.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:11 PM
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A good round alloy wheel with a good bearing set and as cheap as you can go. A wheel is a wheel unless you are in the tour de france and have a big fat contract with a wheel maker.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:12 PM
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There's a mechanic im friends with who left the Spesh dealer a year ago i got the TARMAC from.

We actually worked at the same big named motorcycle shop but different years in the early 80's.

He works at a competitor bike shop.

I will go to him and ask what he recommends before pulling the trigger.

I'm looking for wheel types, names & models to make my own mind.



I want to hear what others like and why, i'll take it from there.

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Old 09-18-15, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gc3
Come on...they're wheels fercrissakes, made for the mass market, likely just fine for 95% of the casual cyclists that are likely to ask the question...nothing is "best" so any response in this thread is strictly personal preference.
Except he is not just any rider, so he can't just ride any wheels. He is, as gsa103 just said, " CNC2204 Destroyer of Bicycles".
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Old 09-18-15, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ColaJacket
For you, probably some November Ti wheels. They are supposed to be very good, especially for riders that aren't lightweights.

GH
Got a link ?
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Old 09-18-15, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by CNC2204





There's a mechanic im friends with who left the Spesh dealer a year ago i got the TARMAC from.

We actually worked at the same big named motorcycle shop but different years in the early 80's.

He works at a competitor bike shop.

I will go to him and ask what he recommends before pulling the trigger.

I'm looking for wheel types, names & models to make my own mind.

I don't "need" people telling me what i "need".

I want to hear what they like and why, i take it from there.
Damn it, why did you ask us? That is really annoying. You refuse to accept the knowledge you profess to want. If there is anybody on Earth who needs people telling him what he needs, it is you. I absolutely don't like what I recommended for you. I hate it. Why? Because I'm not you. Hardly anybody is in the bicycling sense. There are no stock wheels in any brand made for you. Zip, zilch, nada, bupkis. Telling you all those names is just going to induce you to make the exact same mistake again you have already made multiple times.

But now, sir, you are on your own..at least as far as I am concerned.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by CNC2204
Got a link ?
Here you go. They are available in 28/32 for ~$600.
November Bicycles: Race smart. - Alloy Nimbus Ti Wheelsets
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Old 09-18-15, 12:23 PM
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Free ones you get from your sponsor. /thread
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Old 09-18-15, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Damn it, why did you ask us? That is really annoying. You refuse to accept the knowledge you profess to want. If there is anybody on Earth who needs people telling him what he needs, it is you. There are no stock wheels in any brand made for you. Zip, zilch, nada, bupkis. Telling you all those names is just going to induce you to make the exact same mistake again you have already made multiple times.

But now, sir, you are on your own..at least as far as I am concerned.
U seem obsessed with how i spend my money and what i buy.

Life is about the power of choice my friend.

Trying to buy a good set of wheels why would that bother you ?

I'm not sold on H+ & sons per say.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:24 PM
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Here:

YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset

Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.

Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).

Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.

Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:27 PM
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Maybe i'll buy my buddys Willy's and forget about bicycles .... who knows ?
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Old 09-18-15, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
Here:

YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset

Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.

Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).

Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.

Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
Never done tubular how do you fix a flat, is there a big difference ?

The wheels look very nice ...
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Old 09-18-15, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CNC2204
I'm not sold on H+ & sons per say.
Those Archetypes (H + Sons) mentioned yesterday are heavy and relatively inexpensive. But the point is that they'd hold up to you way better than pre-builts with fewer spokes (like Mavics).

If you are willing to spend a little more, just transfer some of the main concepts (wider, more spokes, hand rather than machine built) up the foodchain. I have a set of wheels with rims that are just as wide and deep (Pacenti SL23's), with 28/32 spokes, and run 400g lighter (r45's, CX-rays). They were more expensive...but made to hold up to a clyde just as well. Mine were handbuilt locally - though (in the end) not all that different from the November Ti offering linked above.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CNC2204
U seem obsessed with how i spend my money and what i buy.

Life is about the power of choice my friend.

Trying to buy a good set of wheels why would that bother you ?

I'm not sold on H+ & sons per say.
Yes, that's right. You hit it on the head. I am obsessed with how you spend your money and what you buy. But I have an appointment with my shrink in about an hour, and I am sure he will help me get over it. Wait, I already got over it in my last post. Whew? Now I just have to figure out what to do with all the money I just saved.

But to answer your question, the reason trying to buy a good set of wheels would bother me, is that I hate people being happy. My advice was just to steer you wrong so I could laugh my ass of when you mistakenly followed my specious recommendation. But hey, you're too smart for me. Yessiree.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
Here:

YOELEO SAT Blue T38 Road Bike Tubular Wheelset

Less than $750 delivered. Roughly 1,100 grams.

Downsides with these wheels are that that these include ceramic bearings (expensive and pointless), cartridge bearings (suboptimal design relative to Shimano and Campagnolo loose-ball hubs) and a 6-pawl freehub (more than two pawls indicates that the engineering dept. doesn't know what they are doing).

Nevertheless, a very light and well reviewed wheel.

Of course they are tubular wheels. If you are spending anything more than a few hundred $ on a wheelset, it makes no sense to be riding clinchers. Clinchers are fundamentally handicapped relative to tubulars; there is no performance overlap between then.
I wonder if I pan your idea if OP will think it must be just the right thing for him to do. This must be the highest rider weight to wheel weight in the history of cycling you are proposing. What should I do?
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Old 09-18-15, 12:42 PM
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Tubular 101.

New stuff ... IDK if i'm ready for the glue.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CNC2204
Never done tubular how do you fix a flat, is there a big difference ?

The wheels look very nice ...
I pre-spike my tubular tires with 20cc of Stan's latex sealant. I’ve ridden about 200 times on tubulars this year. One flat due to a hunk of glass that killed the tire. Without me even noticing, I assume that Stan’s plugged the dozen or so flats I would have ordinarily received over this time with lightweight tires – whether clincher or tubular.

Explain “difference”. Performance difference? Tubulars minimize rotating weight. Huge insurmountable difference at the highest performance levels.
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Old 09-18-15, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Yes, that's right. You hit it on the head. I am obsessed with how you spend your money and what you buy. But I have an appointment with my shrink in about an hour, and I am sure he will help me get over it. Wait, I already got over it in my last post. Whew? Now I just have to figure out what to do with all the money I just saved.

But to answer your question, the reason trying to buy a good set of wheels would bother me, is that I hate people being happy. My advice was just to steer you wrong so I could laugh my ass of when you mistakenly followed my specious recommendation. But hey, you're too smart for me. Yessiree.
Easy buddy, i appreciate the help.

I'm saving all this wheel stuff to my PC favorites, it's all good.
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