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BMX Rear Wheel Rebuild

Old 08-31-18, 01:23 PM
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BMX Rear Wheel Rebuild

I'm rebuilding a beater BMX bike for my son and I took the precaution to photograph everything while I was taking apart back in May. Now I'm busy reassembling and, despite numerous photos and digs through YouTube, I'm at a loss as to how to rebuild the back hub. I'm not up to the point where I can post photos () so I'm at a loss to show you what I have.


I have a sorta, kinda rough way to reassemble it but nothing seems to go together right. Any ideas on how to proceed?

Scott
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Old 08-31-18, 01:41 PM
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Well without pics this is going to be tough as there are many different types of hubs.

Here's a pic of a modern BMX hub I found on google, hopefully it will help.


On modern BMX hubs you don't grease or oil the pawls.
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Old 08-31-18, 02:03 PM
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Freewheel or coaster brake?
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Old 08-31-18, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Freewheel or coaster brake?
Coaster.
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Old 08-31-18, 06:40 PM
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Brand of hub? Andy
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Old 08-31-18, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Brand of hub? Andy
If it's any help, Next.
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Old 08-31-18, 08:18 PM
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Next is a brand of bike that is usually sold through what is commonly called "big box" stores. I highly doubt they have their own design and/or manufacturing effort of what is most likely available to them at less cost and effort from the various Asian companies that have been supplying these types of hubs for decades.

So what I suspect you have is one of these hubs, not a Next made one. Maybe a Next labeled one, when you buy tens of thousands of a product you often can have the product "privet labeled" for you and Presto! You are a hub "brand", well sort of

I would suggest that you do a simple Google search for "coaster brake hub overhaul" and start looking at the sites/vids. I suspect you soon see a hub with the same design as yours. I'll bet there's less then 22 parts in your hub.

The way we learned long before the interweb was to start taking apart the hub from one end. We placed each part in order and in the orientation on a piece of paper towel. We ended up with a line of parts which we would carefully clean and replace in that same order and orientation. Then we would slather grease on a part and assemble it on the axle in the order we took it off in. We would take care to look at and record (we used pen and paper as cameras required film and developmenting/printing cost and time) the subtle shapes. Like the brake shoes having a ridge at one end and which end it was and which part that end touched. As we took things apart we noted the moving relationships between the parts.

For most all coaster brake hubs the tools needed are few with only a cone wrench (look it up) needed to loosed or tighten the threaded parts against each other (bearing adjustment).

Again these days there are many vids showing this process, some better then others but that's for you to figure out. I really hope you try this and discover the wonders of self discovery and learning without someone telling you how to do this. critical thinking and spatial understandings will serve you in life far better then a google search skill will. Andy (Trying not to be too harsh).
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Old 09-01-18, 08:44 AM
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Any How, all else fails a new coaster brake basic wheel at bike shop

won't cost much , if it DNF when done .




...

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Old 09-01-18, 09:44 AM
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I'm not sure if this will help https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...edal-brake-hub

But also if you google coaster brake diagram there's quite a few on the internet

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Old 09-01-18, 08:33 PM
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Morrows haven't been around for a long time. But for some part details this exploded diagram does a good job at showing main elements of current coaster hubs and with 21 parts excluding the shell. Andy
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Old 09-02-18, 08:08 AM
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Might be a lot simpler than that. Try rotating the torque arm and see what happens.
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Old 09-03-18, 08:27 AM
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I ran through a seven-minute YouTube video on coaster brake assembly and that was it! I got the bike fully assembled today and my son has been riding the wheels off it, proudly showing it off to his friends. Now that I have some experience under my belt, I'd really like to find another beater and work on it. My wife still has her original ten speed from high school (a Huffy IIRC) and could do well with a single or three-speed cruiser type instead. Time to plunge the depths of C-list!
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Old 09-03-18, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ironandblues
I ran through a seven-minute YouTube video on coaster brake assembly and that was it! I got the bike fully assembled today and my son has been riding the wheels off it, proudly showing it off to his friends. Now that I have some experience under my belt, I'd really like to find another beater and work on it. My wife still has her original ten speed from high school (a Huffy IIRC) and could do well with a single or three-speed cruiser type instead. Time to plunge the depths of C-list!
Well, that was short lived. He decided to crank for all he was worth and promptly popped the chain off. I had to shorten the original chain by a single link, but it went together fine and seemed tight enough. Any thoughts on what went wrong? If all else fails, I'll replace the chain (no great loss if I do).

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Old 09-04-18, 02:54 PM
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Many questions about what happened and what condition is the result before we have a chance to really say one thing is the answer.

How did the chain "pop off"? Did it derail off the cog or ring? or did it fail at a link/pin and is no longer a continuous loop? How tight or loose was the chain before the problem? How was the chain shortened and reassembled? How much wobble or bearing slop is there in either the rear cog or the chain ring/BB? Did you test ride the bike before you let your son ride it (and if not shame on you)>? Andy
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Old 09-13-18, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Many questions about what happened and what condition is the result before we have a chance to really say one thing is the answer.

How did the chain "pop off"? Did it derail off the cog or ring? or did it fail at a link/pin and is no longer a continuous loop? How tight or loose was the chain before the problem? How was the chain shortened and reassembled? How much wobble or bearing slop is there in either the rear cog or the chain ring/BB? Did you test ride the bike before you let your son ride it (and if not shame on you)>? Andy

First off, yes I did a test ride first. Smooth pedaling, a slight chatter from the rear bearings but otherwise fine. He took over quickly and soon started to see how fast he could pedal. According to him, he was pedaling when the pedals briefly locked up, there was a loud pop when the chain jumped off the sprocket.

I never found an obvious master link and the chain was still intact when he walked the bike back. When I was disassembling the bike, I just chose a random link and took a chain breaker to it. Somewhere between the disassembly and resto, I lost the pin so I took the risk of just taking apart another link to gain a pin. Everything went together smoothly and there were no obvious problems.

My thought is to take it to a bike shop simply because I'm out of my league. I wouldn't have a single clue about chain tension, bearing slop or wobble, or anything else.



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Old 09-13-18, 08:18 PM
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I suspect what you called "bearing chatter" was actually chain/teeth meshing noises, as in the chain wasn't meshing smoothly. This, if extreme, can explain the chain trying to climb up ("jump off" the teeth and when doing so the chain tend to try to stop moving. "locking up".

So I suspect the chain was too tight, the front ring and rear cog were not coplanar WRT each other, you have a bent tooth or more, or the chain has twisted/snaking links.

But one problem with these speculations is that some can be the result of the incident so without the bike/parts in hand it's real hard to say exactly what went on. What is easy to say is that you should let a more experienced guy do the repairs. Why? Because the chain is a significant part of the brake system. Andy
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Old 09-18-18, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
I suspect what you called "bearing chatter" was actually chain/teeth meshing noises, as in the chain wasn't meshing smoothly. This, if extreme, can explain the chain trying to climb up ("jump off" the teeth and when doing so the chain tend to try to stop moving. "locking up".

So I suspect the chain was too tight, the front ring and rear cog were not coplanar WRT each other, you have a bent tooth or more, or the chain has twisted/snaking links.

But one problem with these speculations is that some can be the result of the incident so without the bike/parts in hand it's real hard to say exactly what went on. What is easy to say is that you should let a more experienced guy do the repairs. Why? Because the chain is a significant part of the brake system. Andy
My neighbor took a crack at it. We got the chain back on, but he figures it's a matter of time before the chain pops off again. I know I'm not dealing with top quality materials here so throwing more money at it is pointless. I'm chalking it up to a huge learning experience and going to start saving up for a really real bike for him.

Scott
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Old 09-18-18, 04:51 PM
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We work with a lot worse at our local Bike Hospital... no reason why your bike can't be fixed to work right.

Chain path should be straight (wheel centrered in frame, chain ring not bent) chain tension should be fairly tight - looks a bit slack in your pic.

BMX chain is simple single speed, new ones can be as cheap as a pint of beer but I've only ever changed them for cosmetics voluntarily. Even the most wornout ones still stay on their tracks until they break.

Suggest installing a calliper/cable/lever front brake - not a fan of relying only on rear coaster on any kid bike.
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Old 09-25-18, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Tamiya
We work with a lot worse at our local Bike Hospital... no reason why your bike can't be fixed to work right.

Chain path should be straight (wheel centrered in frame, chain ring not bent) chain tension should be fairly tight - looks a bit slack in your pic.

BMX chain is simple single speed, new ones can be as cheap as a pint of beer but I've only ever changed them for cosmetics voluntarily. Even the most wornout ones still stay on their tracks until they break.

Suggest installing a calliper/cable/lever front brake - not a fan of relying only on rear coaster on any kid bike.
My neighbor managed to tighten the chain and it seems fine. And, as of this posting, I just found a Mongoose BMX bike for free on Craigslist. It needs a little TLC and a new tire, but he can at least ride around on the old bike until I get the Mongoose running.
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