11-36 with SRAM eTap & Road Link
05-07-17, 09:30 AM
#26
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Great thread and very timely.
I'm assuming the standard rear derailleur that ships with eTap will also work for 11-36? Also planning on getting RoadLink from the comments above that suggested a smoother experience.
I'm assuming the standard rear derailleur that ships with eTap will also work for 11-36? Also planning on getting RoadLink from the comments above that suggested a smoother experience.
05-07-17, 12:27 PM
#27
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I that the original topic was SRAM but for posterity and as stated earlier, I'm running an 11-36 SRAM cassette with Shimano GS mid-cage derailluer and Shimano 50-34 cranks. No roadlink is used. Three links were removed from a new chain and a KMC Missing Link was used.
I'm happy to report that after 300 miles it shifts perfectly. I crosschain the crud out of it, especially the big-big combo and have not had a problem.
This is how it looks crosschained big-big.
This is how it looks crosschained small-small.
-Tim-
I'm happy to report that after 300 miles it shifts perfectly. I crosschain the crud out of it, especially the big-big combo and have not had a problem.
This is how it looks crosschained big-big.
This is how it looks crosschained small-small.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 05-07-17 at 02:58 PM.
07-26-17, 10:25 AM
#28
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anyone know if i can get a 36t rear cassette to work with my red 22 wifli rear der?
i won't be using this as a daily setup, but want lower gearing to climb pikes peak, so as long as I can get it to shift up onto the 36, i should be good to go.
i assume the red 22 wifli is the same setup as the etap wifli, but thought i'd see if anyone has done the same thing with non e-tap.
i won't be using this as a daily setup, but want lower gearing to climb pikes peak, so as long as I can get it to shift up onto the 36, i should be good to go.
i assume the red 22 wifli is the same setup as the etap wifli, but thought i'd see if anyone has done the same thing with non e-tap.
07-26-17, 11:02 AM
#29
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Road Link is designed to work with Shimano.
I emailed about it awhile ago and was told by the manufacturer that it probably won't work with Sram.
Some people have reported that a 36 works fine with the WiFli RD. Others have said it didn't. It is largely frame dependent.
I emailed about it awhile ago and was told by the manufacturer that it probably won't work with Sram.
Some people have reported that a 36 works fine with the WiFli RD. Others have said it didn't. It is largely frame dependent.
09-06-17, 07:50 PM
#30
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anyone know if i can get a 36t rear cassette to work with my red 22 wifli rear der?
i won't be using this as a daily setup, but want lower gearing to climb pikes peak, so as long as I can get it to shift up onto the 36, i should be good to go.
i assume the red 22 wifli is the same setup as the etap wifli, but thought i'd see if anyone has done the same thing with non e-tap.
i won't be using this as a daily setup, but want lower gearing to climb pikes peak, so as long as I can get it to shift up onto the 36, i should be good to go.
i assume the red 22 wifli is the same setup as the etap wifli, but thought i'd see if anyone has done the same thing with non e-tap.
09-06-17, 08:42 PM
#31
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i was actually able to get the 11-36 to work without the road link, made it up the mountain, and then stored the cassette in my spares box for other foolish adventures.
10-15-17, 06:15 PM
#32
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So can I assume I could get away with a 11-34 on the eTap WiFli with no issues? I'm currently running 11-32 with a Praxis 48-32 crankset. It's great, but I have a two week ride coming up with thousands of feet a day climbing, some at crazy percentages. One gear lower might save me.
03-26-18, 09:14 AM
#34
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Road Link is designed to work with Shimano.
I emailed about it awhile ago and was told by the manufacturer that it probably won't work with Sram.
Some people have reported that a 36 works fine with the WiFli RD. Others have said it didn't. It is largely frame dependent.
I emailed about it awhile ago and was told by the manufacturer that it probably won't work with Sram.
Some people have reported that a 36 works fine with the WiFli RD. Others have said it didn't. It is largely frame dependent.
03-28-18, 04:38 AM
#35
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Dura ace 7900 modified with ultegra's GS cage + Roadlink for 11-40T cassette
Sram force short cage + roadlink to fit 11-36t cassette
Hope this help
Sram force short cage + roadlink to fit 11-36t cassette
Hope this help
01-30-19, 08:51 AM
#37
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03-14-19, 10:26 AM
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I've been running the SRAM eTap WiFli Hydro set on my Devinci Hatchet now for about a year with a 50/34 Rotor crankset and an 11-36 SRAM cassette and didn't need to use the roadlink at all. I had previously used it on another bike running a Shimano 6800 Di2 GS derailleur running 50/34 Shimano crankset and an 11-40 Shimano cassette (with roadlink). I'm going to change out the chainrings shortly to a 46/30 and run it with the 11-36 and figure I shouldn't have any issues (might have to remove a link or two, maybe?). Also planning to see if I can get it to run with 46/30 and 11-40 with or without roadlink. Found this thread as well which might be helpful: roadbikerider.com/lowering-gearing-tip-for-sram-etap-roadies-d3/#comment-8679.
03-18-19, 11:20 AM
#39
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You really should get the longer chain. Chains need to be sized to take the big/big combination. Even though you know to stay out of it, there will come a day where you're tired, you forget, and you put it in the big/big and rip off the derailleur.
If you size for big/big, it may be sloppy in the little/little combination, but you can just stay out of that combination. And you inadvertently forget, putting it in the little/little isn't going to be the potentially catastrophic problem of putting too small a chain in the big/big
Go get a longer chain.
If you size for big/big, it may be sloppy in the little/little combination, but you can just stay out of that combination. And you inadvertently forget, putting it in the little/little isn't going to be the potentially catastrophic problem of putting too small a chain in the big/big
Go get a longer chain.
03-18-19, 03:03 PM
#40
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04-01-19, 10:28 AM
#41
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I can cross chain, just not little/little. It came that way. I could maybe program it to allow that combo, but I'd never use the two smallest cogs on the small chain ring, so the fact they are locked out is ok with me.
04-01-19, 10:35 AM
#42
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J.
04-07-19, 08:01 PM
#43
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Di2 programming
I just got a new bike with Di2 8000 and it was set up by default as ‘synchro-shift’. So you basically only needs to shift with the right lever and the shift to big ring occurs automatically along a progression of gear inches, depending on what cassette you have in the rear. You can also set it up as semi-sync, which allows you to shift the chainring when you want, I believe, but also doesn’t allow cross chaining. You can also set as full manual.
it is a little weird though when it drops you out of the big ring abruptly when you shift down.
it is a little weird though when it drops you out of the big ring abruptly when you shift down.
04-07-19, 09:35 PM
#44
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I just got a new bike with Di2 8000 and it was set up by default as ‘synchro-shift’. So you basically only needs to shift with the right lever and the shift to big ring occurs automatically along a progression of gear inches, depending on what cassette you have in the rear. You can also set it up as semi-sync, which allows you to shift the chainring when you want, I believe, but also doesn’t allow cross chaining. You can also set as full manual.
it is a little weird though when it drops you out of the big ring abruptly when you shift down.
it is a little weird though when it drops you out of the big ring abruptly when you shift down.
That's strange. Which bike? I would have thought that all new bikes would come with the default options for shifting.
04-07-19, 10:05 PM
#45
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Has anyone tried this? Works fine?
Please keep the "man up" comments off of this thread. I ride up 12%+ climbs daily on my setup. I wanna try the above for Death Ride that involves 120 miles and 15k feet. Current setup might be fine but I don't wanna not finish the ride! Also I wanna finish it with a respectable time with little rest time as possible.
I already have a WiFli rear derailleur. Here's a link for RoadLink for those who haven't heard it before. RoadLink ? wolftoothcomponents.com
Please keep the "man up" comments off of this thread. I ride up 12%+ climbs daily on my setup. I wanna try the above for Death Ride that involves 120 miles and 15k feet. Current setup might be fine but I don't wanna not finish the ride! Also I wanna finish it with a respectable time with little rest time as possible.
I already have a WiFli rear derailleur. Here's a link for RoadLink for those who haven't heard it before. RoadLink ? wolftoothcomponents.com
I also use a 46/30T crank. Don't let anyone give you any shyte about the gearing you use.
04-07-19, 10:42 PM
#46
Senior Member
I'm using this on one of my wheel-sets with a Shimano Di2 derailleur. In my case, no need for a road link. I wouldn't be surprised if it worked for you. Just adjust the B-screw. (The shimano deralleur is officially for up to 32T).
I also use a 46/30T crank. Don't let anyone give you any shyte about the gearing you use.
I also use a 46/30T crank. Don't let anyone give you any shyte about the gearing you use.
04-08-19, 12:17 PM
#47
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I just got the new 2019 Giant Defy Advanced Pro. Comes with Ultegra Di2 50/34 x 11-34. Took me a few minutes to figure out why it was shifting funny, and I'm thinking I'm going to put it to full manual when I get a chance to ride it outside this weekend. I've been riding my gravel bike with eTap, so getting used to the Di2 system again as well!
