Flandry

Hi everyone,

I need some input on a new bike purchase and have found a lot of useful threads here while googling for info. I think the time has come for a more directed inquiry. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

First of all, my biking was all aboard a mtb until two years ago, when a rogue Cavalier cracked my Specialized frame in two and laid me up for a few weeks. I picked up a used Nishiki roadbike from the '80s last year and the thin slicks, light weight, and more aggressive position were all very exciting.

That bike didn't handle the winter well, however, and half the spokes on the rear wheel broke this spring due to corrosion. It's time for a new new bike.

The problem is, the commuter bikes all seem kinda bland. I rode a couple Breezers, a Swobo Dixon, and a really awesome but lead-based monster featuring a NuVinci transmission, and just am not really enthused. However, I'm sold on the idea of an internally geared hub.

So, what to do?

The bike would be used 80% for short commutes, 5% for random off road fun, and 5% for short tours. The latter two I haven't been able to do but are things i'd like to pick up, so i need a bike that can handle that.

Must-haves are fenders, something-besides-flats (have an awesome Nitto moustache on my Nishiki), horizontal dropouts with 135 mm spacing, and aluminum alloy (after seeing the way the salty slush devoured my old steel frame). Basically, i want a weatherproof bike with a more zippy mein than the purpose-built commuters, and the strength for some abuse.

It sounds like a cyclocross conversion would be best, right? I've gone around in circles a couple times between On-One Il Pompino (present models have too narrow spacing), Fuji Cross, Specialized Tricross, and a frame from Nashbar that is perfect...except it has (IIRC) narrow, vertical dropouts. The cult classic Cross Check comes up all the time in these discussions, but it's steel and lacks disc tabs, something i think-i-may-want-someday (TM).

I'm not sure how much difference there is in geometry between e.g. the Breezer and these CX bikes, so coments on that, on the possible options i mentioned above (especially as regards light touring potential), and any other models i may have overlooked would be appreciated. I also see that there is a new high-end Breezer and a Civia that i'm not really sure where they fit in. They're possibly a whole new class.

I'd like to spend less than $1k for the whole tricked out setup if possible. Probably unrealisticly.

bkrownd

Road salt really shouldn't cause much trouble with your frame unless you neglect regular maintenance and don't repair/repaint major frame scrapes regularly.

There's nothing magical about the "cyclocross" label. They're basically normal road bikes with cantilever brakes and sturdy high spoke count wheels. You can get any decent bike shop to put together an equivalent package for you from any sensible frame.

Hot Potato

I think your hunch is correct.......My Tri-Cross has served me well the last two years.

Flandry

Thanks for your replies.

The reason for specifying a cyclocross is that it is my belief that the geometry of them is what i'm looking for, at least from what i've read. If there is another bike that meets my needs i welcome suggestions.

How does the riding position on the cyclocross bikes compare to the commuters like the Breezers or Jamis Commuter line? My experience is limited to the one old roadie and some mtbs.

Hot Potato, how have you used your Tri-Cross? What is your least and most favorite thing aobut it?

stevage

>There's nothing magical about the "cyclocross" label. They're basically normal road bikes with cantilever brakes and sturdy high spoke count wheels.

You sure? I thought the main difference was wider dropouts/fork, to allow MTB wheels. Also, fender and rack mounts, at least on the commuter models.

>Hot Potato, how have you used your Tri-Cross? What is your least and most favorite thing aobut it?

To answer this myself, my favourite thing about it is pretty much everything (I really like the handlebars for some reason). Least favourite thing: probably the Tiagra front gear shifter. I find it vaguely unpleasant to upshift. Also, one of the rack mount screw threads was a bit dodgy.

Steve

Hot Potato

Steve -

I have a five mile commute, half sleepy suburban side streets, half suburban "take no prisoners" speedways. And I live right near 150 miles of crushed limestone "rails to trails" paths. So my commute is about half road, half sidewalk, and the sidewalks are "adequate" but far from smooth riding. A curb or two that doesn't have the handicap bevel requires hopping. Then, on those days I can, my commute home intersects the bike path and I detour for 15 or 20 miles. Since my commute barely even warms me up in the morning, I can fit everything I need in an underseat bag, and the third water bottle mount underneath holds my road morph pump.

I never had a higher end bike, so I splurged and got the tri-cross expert with the ultegra components. (maybe even a durace or two?) It is the compact double chainring set up. I find the shifting to be excellent. I find the cantilever brakes have to be adjusted "spot on" or else they don't inspire confidence compared to v-brake set ups. I love the extra set of brake levers on top. My only gripe is that the frame triangle is narrow at the bottom where the water bottles go, so that the water bottle below the seat rubs on the frame across from it. But I need that water bottle, so I would rather have a bit of frame rub than no water bottle.

And that goofy little bell on the upper brake lever saves me a lot of yelling when passing on the path. This bike gobbles up the miles of limestone bike path superbly.

Flandry

This is sounding more and more like the bike i want, but i'm still not sure what justifies the $$$ premium over a mid-level Breezer that comes fully tricked. Is it just how much the market will pay, or what? I just discovered that the Singlecross version (the only one really in my price range) that seemed like a perfect starting point has narrow dropout spacing, ruling out an internal hub. :/

Not sure what to do now. It seems both expensive and silly to buy the geared version and then strip it all off.

jeff^d

Do you need gears? I switched to a fixed gear specifically because of slushy salty winters. Come to think of it, nowadays my winters are sunny and 60 and I still ride one...just a word of warning

jitterymonkey

What about something like this........
https://www.bianchiusa.com/607.html

Bianchi makes some really nice reasonably priced bikes
that would fit your needs.

Flandry

Yeah i'm kinda afraid of trying a SS.

I would say "no" except that there is a short but steep hill near my friend's house and a longer one i have to climb once a month or so. That and i really would like to try some simple touring sometime. I've never had a bike that even made that sound like something sane before.

I briefly investigated the Castro Valley before reading something that turned me off to it. I can't remember what, though. It does look like a nice ride. It's CroMo but there was something more than that. I may be looking at it again if i can't find a discount Specialized.

kwrides

I've looked at several bikes in your range recently. I currently ride a singlespeed with a messenger bag, but want to upgrade to something with a rack and panniers.

To specifically answer your question, imo, the main difference between a Breezer and a Cross bike is the difference between an upright, more comfortable but less agressive hybrid geometry of a Breezer and the more agressive roadie geometry of a road bike. I prefer the road geometry because I think it's more fun and I like to go fast. Not everyone will agree with that comment.

A few Cyclocross bikes I checked out in the $1000 range:
Surly Cross Check
Surly Long Haul Trucker
Kona Jake
Soma Smoothie ES
Redline 925
Specialized Tricross

tjspiel

That's pretty close to what I'd consider an ideal year round commuter, once you add studded tires in the winter.

The price isn't bad either.

harleyfrog

Check ebay for these bikes and others. You might find a better deal.

bkrownd

Cyclocross bikes aren't designed for "MTB wheels", and fenders and racks aren't features of a cyclocross racing bike. A cyclocross bike is an off-road capable racing bike of the traditional road bike format, it's NOT designed to be a commuter. You might be able to make one into a commuter, but it's designed to be a fast light racing bike.

Flandry

Thanks for addressing that question, kwrides. That is what i had suspected but i wasn't sure how much difference there really is. I definitely like to zip about and the Breezer made me feel rather sedentary.

I noticed that Sheldon Brown had this to say about dropout spacing: If you leave off the Rollerbrake and use a thinner cone lockwasher on the left side, you can re-space a Nexus 7- or 8-speed hub to about 126 mm.

So back to this dead horse: what is the feasibility of putting a 126 mm hub on Al alloy 120 mm track dropouts? Too much deflection for such a noncompliant metal?

late

How tall are you?

Flandry

5'10", 160# when it's raining

Hot Potato

I liked the looks of that bianchi, and the price is right. I may need a new foul weather bike in the future. But can someone explain the "dynamo" headlight? Ever use one? Is this functional or all gimmick?

BTW - the cyclocross market is rather small, so many of the low to mid range cyclocross bikes are designed to be racked and fendered for commuting, which is why it is popular for commuting. A fast, light, off road cabable bike - that's my commute in a nutshell! Sorry to disagree with you bkrownd.

late

I know of a terrific deal in Kittery, but you are several inches too tall.
I am also a little too tall or I would have bought it.

bkrownd

A bike in the "touring bike" style would usually be a much more natural choice for a commuter. However, it's important not to get caught up in labels and marketing, and look at the actual components on a bike, and get the shop to change stock components you don't want before purchase. One of the problems with the 'cyclocross' bikes for commuting is many come with road race gearing, instead of the lower gearing you want for climbing hills and hauling loads. First thing I did when I got mine home was put on a mountain bike crankset to get useful gears, which took some extra work to set up right.

late

The Surly LHT is very popular among commuters here.

harleyfrog

I know that Specialized markets the Tricross as a multi-purpose bike, sort of like the Sequoia, but able to use fenders and wider tires. Both the Tricross and Sequoia have the Bar Phat, which makes the handlebar feel plush. Haven't test rode either, so no input here on the ride.

kwrides

I test rode one last weekend and loved it. The thing I didn't like was the bar-end shifters. A really nice ride though.

MichaelW

I am converting from a sport touring bike to a hub gear for my all-weather commuter. I think Shimano Alfine is worth a look and disc brakes are a useful option in mucky winters.
Finding a decent Alfine commuter is no easy thing. In the USA you have the Brodie and you might have the Giant R Sub Zero.
If you have ther storage room it is worth having 2 bikes so you have a backup. A hub/disc commuter and a cyclo-cross/tourer would cover most bases.

timdoug

You could buy new wheels and ride the nishiki. Put as big of tire that will fit on it. smile you saved $700.

If not, maybe look into the Salsa La Cruz, even though it's steel they paint and clear coat bikes these days, I don't think you need to worry about corrosion unless you leave it outside and don't take care of it with an occasional wipe down. If thats too expensive go with the crosscheck already. Both are QBP bikes so there are lots of places to get them.
Also, maybe the Bianchi Volpe
LeMond Poprad... If you can find one they are on sale, and they can have disk brakes.
For everything you want $1k might steep, either pay or compromise.
Things to give up:
disk brakes, you said you have one hill to navigate.
internal hub, i'm sure their fine, but you won't find them on many bikes that meet your other specs.