ksryder

Some chain tools and multi-tools come with a small wire for that purpose. I had no idea what it was for until someone was helping me during a roadside repair and used it for its intended purpose.

OT but related, bike accessories sure could step up their game in the "how to use this thing" documentation area, right?

gregf83 

Great looking bike. Thanks for sharing the build process.

mstateglfr 

There is also this for home use.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-3rd-H.../dp/B000AO9Q8S

Sunlite, Minoura, Topeak, and other brands market them. Costs a few bucks and it stores easily on the peg board.

deex

Why did you go with a missing link and not the included shimano pin? I carry extra missing links but always use the shimano pin. I really like the clean look of not having a missing link.

TimothyH

I've just always used links and never really needed to try anything else. The look doesn't bother me and it gets covered with grease and dirt anyway.

Some say that the pins can get tight and bind or fall out. Have you experienced this or is it not a concern? Not trying to challenge, sincerely asking.


-Tim-

deex

For some reason to me it bothers me. Seeing as you went to such lengths in getting it perfect having a quick link in a Shimano chain that does not come standard with one just makes me not feel good. No hate at all as quick links are great but if you are aiming for perfection then the only thing that will do is a pin in a Shimano chain. I have gone as far as reusing the pin multiple times even though you are not supposed to with great success. Anyway now that I have placed that little nugget in your head just pointing out that it is not perfect to have a quick link on a Shimano chain. lol

In my experience I have worn out a few Shimano chains on both MTB's and road bikes without any issues. I also have both style of chains on my bikes. I have four bikes, two with Shimano chains (XT and Ultegra), a SRAM chain with a quicklink and a KMC chain on my cross bike.

The bike looks great and I am sure it will perform beyond expectations!

TimothyH

Thanks for the information about your success using pins. Some riders are vehemently against them.


As an idealistic melancholic I've learned the hard way not to expect perfection. There is less disappointment that way. I'm really glad it came out the way it did and never thought I would own a bike like this.


Thanks. The limitation is clearly the rider, not the bike.


-Tim-

deex

Tonight, in your dreams, when the nightmare of a quicklink on a shimano chain wakes you up in cold sweat you'll go and replace it and everything will be ok with the world again. Until then... lol

Marcus_Ti

I quicklink all my chains. Given the choice between an easy quicklink, and fussing with a pin and peening it--I don't get why anyone would choose the later.

AAMOF, I thought Shimano was now selling their own quick-link (FINALLY)...then again they announced it a while ago.

mstateglfr 

Because Shimano pins were designed by sadists who take pleasure in the frustration of others?

TimothyH

04-26-17

Ignoring pointless controversies and straining ahead, tires were converted to tubeless last night.

The bike went into the stand, wheels removed, brake blocks installed, tools and supplies assembled and coffee poured.



The bike has about 100 miles on it and all of them with tubes. I'm not sure if this contributed but getting the tires off the rims was extremely difficult to the point of being impossible. The beads on the front tire separated from the rim with little complaint and with a suitable amount of perspiration the tire was eventually removed from the wheel completely. The rear tire was not as cooperative and the beads were somehow fused to the rim. Progressively more aggressive tools were used in an attempt to push the beads toward the center of the rim bed until it was clear that continuing would likely trigger a catastrophic and very expensive event.

Channellocks were used in a last ditch effort. The tire was wrapped in a rag and taking care not to squeeze the rim, the two beads were pressed toward each other until one broke loose. How the other bead will separate from the rim remains an enigma and service in the field is questionable. I'm open to suggestions.



American Classic valves were installed, beads anointed with soapy water and the tires snapped onto the rim at about 50 PSI. The beads remained mostly seated after letting out the air and removing the valve cores.



About 3 oz Orange Endurance sealant was added to each wheel. I don't have any photos but the process is pretty straight forward. A 4 oz injector bottle was used and this was refilled after the first tire was completed.



Valve cores were inserted and air was reinstalled to 50 PSI front and 60 PSI rear. Correct pressure was determined using the Cool Hand Luke "Seemed a nice round number" method. The bike was ridden around the subdivision to distribute the sealant and the opportunity used to test a new Exposre Strada 1200 light. There was no discernible air loss this morning.





-Tim-

athrowawaynic

There's a part of me that thinks you would have lined up the tire logo if it hadn't been such a pain in the ass to remove the tube and set up. (IDGAF tends to rear its ugly head after frustration has set in.)

I'm taking your notes here as a cautionary tale when it comes time for me to get new tires.

(I had the opposite problem setting up non-tubeless tires--too floppy, seating the beads were a process. Seems like you're damned if you do and damned if you don't.)

TimothyH

Didn't even enter my mind.

athrowawaynic

Right on.

(Surprises me just a tad because you seem otherwise so meticulous and detail-oriented.)

shoota 

That's kind of concerning about the rims holding on to the bead so hard. I was seriously considering picking up a pair of these wheels. Seems like getting a tube in in the field would be impossible. Not good.

TimothyH

It does not seem like the rim is grabbing the bead but that something has bonded the two together like a glue - dust from gravel road aggregate or dried soap from the initial install or something like that.

In hindsight I probably should not have given up so easily and might try soaking the bead area in warm water to see if whatever holding is dissolves.


-Tim-

Marcus_Ti

Wheels designed for tubeless are more grabby than standard clinchers, in order to lock tight and hold air better. Which get more and more important at the extremes of tire pressure. A tire being a bear to get off, is in that way a good thing. Less likely to burp/break-seal on a bump or blow off. The bead being locked in, you could probably run it nearly flat (offroad) and still have control.

If you don't have one, get a bead jack. They come in handy.

shoota 

So how do you put a tube in out in the middle of nowhere?

TimothyH

This thing is way beyond grabby. It is stuck.

American Classic documentation says to never use a tire lever on these wheels. They repeat it over and over in big red letters and so I am somewhat hesitant.

Does a bead jack press on the rim in any way or just the tire? Echoing @shoota, are they small enough to carry in a saddle bag?

I'm asking out of ignorance, not trying to challenge.


-Tim-

deex

They are probably concerned with the lever ripping the tape if used incorrectly. That is the only thing that I see of concern.

I mounted MAXXIS Rambler 40C on my gravel bike and it was a pain to get the bead to seat, but not to get it off the rim. I also had to re-tape it a few times as the air was escaping through the spokes. I have now put more than 400 miles on those tires on all sorts of gravel and single track roads without any issues. I do have to pump them up every other ride. Each ride is around 25 miles long.

Marcus_Ti

Is that mentioned online? Don't see it, then again I might not be looking in the right place. That is dumb dumb on their part if they are serious. Tubeless can and should be a bastard on and off (needing irons or a bead jack....if it isn't, the tire probably won't seal (well).

A bead jack is a handy tool to get the last length of tire up and over the rim into the bed....it is a lever arm that does indeed use the rim-bead to work against (like a tire iron). Won't fit in tiny seat wedges, might fit in bigger bags otherwise a jersey pocket.

Kool-Stop Tire Bead Jack With Handle > Accessories > Tools & Maintenance > Tire Tools | Jenson USA

But if Am Classic is serious about no irons on those rims, that nixes the bead jack.......Eeeeeek. Now why you one side is seemingly glued to the rim I don't know, especially if you took vise grips to it and it wouldn't budget.

shoota 

So what's the verdict here cause I'm about to buy a set of these wheels...

TimothyH

Lots of people run the wheels and I don't think the issue is endemic to this brand or model.My guess is that all the dawn dishwashing soap I put on the wheels and tires to get the bead to seat has somehow turned to glue. The tire came right off the front rim with no problem and I recall using much less soap on the front.

American Classic gave me a 10% off coupon codejust for asking. GET10 - see if that works or send them an email. Let us know.

shoota 

Thanks, I've seen so many reports of durability issues too. Even the Gravel Cyclist got a nasty dent in his rims. Oh well for the price I'm getting them I guess I should do it and just use them as race wheels.

gsa103

It's fairly common for lightweight tubeless rims, Shimano have a similar warning. Using a lever can bend/damage the bead edge, leading to the tire not sealing. It's also basically a cya statement because it's not practical at all.

The key is using reasonable judgement. Don't ever use metal levers. Get the tire seated as best as you can and use the lever to get the last little bit, after you've carefully moved the beads to the center well.

To dislodge a well seated bead, use a lever to push right at the bead and push directly inward. And having the beads locked in is definitely a good thing, so that a flat can't come off.