Upgrade to front drum brake?
#26
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Thread Starter
Taking my own thread off-topic again.
On the Schwinn, before investing >$250 in a wheel build around a drum brake, I'm going to try a modern dual-pivot caliper and see if that's sufficient. The bike already has an alloy front wheel, not steel, so it shouldn't be too bad. I have a Tekro R559 caliper on order ($23 on amazon.) If that's still hot garbage, there's still the option for a drum brake wheel.
On the new bike, I upgraded the front rollerbrake to a BR-C6000-F. It's much stronger than the original brake -- whether that's because this one's newer, or larger, I can't say. But it stops quick!! I added some rollerbrake grease in case there wasn't enough in there from the factory. This bike just needs a pannier rack, a non-awful saddle, non-incredibly-slippy pedals, non-decaying-foam-rubber grips, and a new stem to lower the handlebars and then it'll join the active commute fleet.
On the Schwinn, before investing >$250 in a wheel build around a drum brake, I'm going to try a modern dual-pivot caliper and see if that's sufficient. The bike already has an alloy front wheel, not steel, so it shouldn't be too bad. I have a Tekro R559 caliper on order ($23 on amazon.) If that's still hot garbage, there's still the option for a drum brake wheel.
On the new bike, I upgraded the front rollerbrake to a BR-C6000-F. It's much stronger than the original brake -- whether that's because this one's newer, or larger, I can't say. But it stops quick!! I added some rollerbrake grease in case there wasn't enough in there from the factory. This bike just needs a pannier rack, a non-awful saddle, non-incredibly-slippy pedals, non-decaying-foam-rubber grips, and a new stem to lower the handlebars and then it'll join the active commute fleet.
#27
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Brake technology, no matter how sophisticated, cannot get around immutable laws of physics. Single pivot and dual pivot sidepulls can all endo a bike with the right brakepads installed. And you should want that. A brake that CANNOT endo is a brake that is not superior. Period. All brakes rely on the rider to apply the brake properly. If you are right hooked and your reaction time is too slow, you will either hit the car, or endo, but there is no brake made that can save you from both at once. Only being an aware rider who can read the situation and predict the unpredictable will save the day. I would consider it a real waste of money to build a 700C wheelset with new 70mm drums for an aging Schwinn 27" chassis. Dual pivot Tektro's with decent pads, or premium pads if you prefer, but if the DP's cannot stop you to your liking, then work on your stopping because it isn't the brakes that need improvement.
#28
Senior Member
My Sturmey drums have inadequate stopping power. I'm taking the bike into the shop soon, maybe they're not adjusted right.
#29
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How long have you had them? They need a break-in period.
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#30
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#31
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That's well beyond the break-in period. I hope a mechanic figures out the problem.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.