Move Campy UT crank 1-2mm?
#1
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Move Campy UT crank 1-2mm?
The bike, mid 2000s. 10sp Campy Chorus except for the 11sp Carbon Chorus crank 50-34. It had a stock square taper 53-39 Chorus crank that didn't suit my riding needs.
Works great in most gears except when I get a little cross chained. 34 x the smallest 4 cogs on the cassette causes the chain to almost catch the shift ramps and almost shift to the 50. This is without touching the front derailleur.
I can shift into the big ring and find an equivalent and I have been doing that. There are some short descents in the middle of a climb that I would just prefer to not touch the front derailleur for.
Seems like the new UT crank must be just a squosh more left/midline. It sure looks like chain line for this design is not adjustable. Is there a way?
Works great in most gears except when I get a little cross chained. 34 x the smallest 4 cogs on the cassette causes the chain to almost catch the shift ramps and almost shift to the 50. This is without touching the front derailleur.
I can shift into the big ring and find an equivalent and I have been doing that. There are some short descents in the middle of a climb that I would just prefer to not touch the front derailleur for.
Seems like the new UT crank must be just a squosh more left/midline. It sure looks like chain line for this design is not adjustable. Is there a way?
#2
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I can't think of a way to move the chain line on an Ultra Torque set up, it's just two outboard cups and a BB spindle half on each arm. If you have horizontal dropouts you may be able to reposition the rear axle to improve cross chain interference. Barring that, you could change the 34 for a 36 and wind up a cog or two lower (up toward the spokes) for your sweet spot. The other option is to change the rear cassette for a wide range model that would allow you to stay in the 50 and work the 9 thru 5 cogs (1 is the smallest) to approximate the 34x whatever cog you were using before.
I use a 34/50 crank and have a chain catcher like this:
https://k-edge.com/shop/chain-catchers/pro-road-braze-chain-catcher/
I can drop from the 50 to the 34 ring and shift 3-4 cogs up (higher gear) in the blink of an eye without losing the chain or momentum. In the old days when you had to sit down to shift down tube shifters we just learned to gut out a big gear for a short distance or spin up a small one in lieu of shifting all the time.
I use a 34/50 crank and have a chain catcher like this:
https://k-edge.com/shop/chain-catchers/pro-road-braze-chain-catcher/
I can drop from the 50 to the 34 ring and shift 3-4 cogs up (higher gear) in the blink of an eye without losing the chain or momentum. In the old days when you had to sit down to shift down tube shifters we just learned to gut out a big gear for a short distance or spin up a small one in lieu of shifting all the time.
Last edited by nomadmax; 07-29-19 at 09:16 AM.
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I wonder if the c-to-c spacing between the chainrings on the 11sp crankset, when used with a 10 sp chain (if that's what you're doing) might be the problem. If so, when you get a bit cross chained when in the small ring, the slightly too-wide chain for the cranks might be hitting the big ring and causing the malfunction. Otherwise, it seems like an odd problem. I thought of this possibility only in theory, I don't know what, if any, difference in c to c spacing between the chainrings there is between Campy's 10 and 11 sp cranks, I just thought of it as a possibility. If this does turn out to be the issue, you could likely run an 11sp chain and have it work fine with your 10 sp cassette. Good luck getting it figured out
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I wonder if the c-to-c spacing between the chainrings on the 11sp crankset, when used with a 10 sp chain (if that's what you're doing) might be the problem. If so, when you get a bit cross chained when in the small ring, the slightly too-wide chain for the cranks might be hitting the big ring and causing the malfunction. Otherwise, it seems like an odd problem. I thought of this possibility only in theory, I don't know what, if any, difference in c to c spacing between the chainrings there is between Campy's 10 and 11 sp cranks, I just thought of it as a possibility. If this does turn out to be the issue, you could likely run an 11sp chain and have it work fine with your 10 sp cassette. Good luck getting it figured out
I have a new Campy 10 speed chain I can try. I can probably get ahold of an 11 speed chain just to experiment with if the matching brand 10 speed doesn't help.
#5
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A little different: I went from UT 10sp to Super Record UT 11 cranks and from what I can see, the ring spacing is the same.
I have a regular so that would mean the chain is out further(longer) than a 34, but not even close to touching the big ring:
Going small/small the chain does start to rattle the FD cage.
Unless you got like really short stays maybe the cassette is a bit more outboard than usual.
I have a ten speed chain BTW.
The chainline would have to be different by a bunch to do what its doing on your bicycle. More than a couple of MMs.
I have a regular so that would mean the chain is out further(longer) than a 34, but not even close to touching the big ring:
Going small/small the chain does start to rattle the FD cage.
Unless you got like really short stays maybe the cassette is a bit more outboard than usual.
I have a ten speed chain BTW.
The chainline would have to be different by a bunch to do what its doing on your bicycle. More than a couple of MMs.
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For what it's worth, I switched from the Shimano chain to the Campy based on some previous comments.
First off, the Campy chain felt much smoother in my hands. Once installed, it doesn't try to shift up. I still get a little noisy in the small small cross chain but it works a lot better.
I figured if the chain matched the speeds, brand wouldn't matter. I guess I was wrong.
Good thing those 10 speed chains are usually on sale.
First off, the Campy chain felt much smoother in my hands. Once installed, it doesn't try to shift up. I still get a little noisy in the small small cross chain but it works a lot better.
I figured if the chain matched the speeds, brand wouldn't matter. I guess I was wrong.
Good thing those 10 speed chains are usually on sale.
#8
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Next time you need a chain, try an 11 speed chain. I think you'll find that it works.