pstock

this otherwise decent Reynolds wheelset makes a horrible crunching sound when pedaling under load.
not when freewheeling ; only when I apply load.

this style hub has grub screws on either end of the axle holding end caps.
the NDS cap came off easily so I pulled the entire axle/hub assembly out.

now what though?
should I be trying a to remove the hub from the DS of the axle? (I am not having luck with the DS cap)

Andrew R Stewart 

Peter, Peter couldn't you at least clean the parts... Have you placed you finger inside the hubshell bearings, spinning them to feel their condition? The same could be done for the freehub body bearings.

"horrible crunching sound" could be really bad off bearings (and this should be able to be felt with your fingers), ratchet pawls having rough/worn engagement ends, same for the ratchet ring, a serious lack of lube and perhaps grit/salt issues between contacting parts. I would clean the outsides of all, inspect and feel the bearing spins (and yes, the freehub body ones are best felt w/o the axle in place), inspect the pawls and generally look for rough or corroded surfaces.

I do agree with the use of tiny hex headed set screws is not the best choice for bikes. Even with a fresh and clean wrench it is easy to strip the wrench in the socket screw's head. If you're not planning to replace the bearings (and on some freehubs they can be pretty tightly pressed in) I would be careful about applying heat. Andy

bitpuddle

I’d guess a bad bearing in the freehub body. That is dirty enough that I assume gunk or corrosion got in.

I'm lazy, so usually just replace the freehub, but you can carefully press in new bearings if you’re so inclined.

mpetry912 

try popping the seal off and shoot in new grease.

clean everything first and re-lube / re-assemble

ride and enjoy

/markp

FBinNY 

It's almost definitely within the freehub itself since the spinning wheel is quiet. Doesn't have to be a bad bearing, could just be dirt. In fact, it might be as simple as a cassette not properly tightened. Start with a proper cleaning, lube, reassemble and see if that's good enough before going all in for bearings.

pstock

I feels pretty smooth when I just spin it by hand.

short of further disassembly, how would I get lube in there? just dribble it in with the drive side facing up? (when I do it seems to be going somewhere)

I'll mount it up and give it another test ride.

But If I did want to go deeper into its bowels, how would I tackle that? should I be able to get the DS end cap off? so far it is not budging.

pstock

Hmmm, well I soaked the hub overnight and then dribbled in a good amount of lub to the DS face.
but when I took it out for a test run just now, it was still making noise.

though it's actually more of a "cracking" sound than "crunching", not steady though, once every couple of seconds.

IF I wanted to just change this freehub:
1. are they brand specific generally? or fairly generic? would I need to find a matching Reynolds-designed FH?
2. how would I get that current FH off the axle? I am thinking inverting in over a vise (leaving the axle free but catching the FH face) and tapping lightly on the NDS end of the axle?
I don't know how to get that DS end cap off even with the grubscrew loosened.

though first I am going to try a different cassette. (even though I don't think the current one is the original) just to eliminate that possibility.

Peter

Andrew R Stewart 

1- most freehub bodies are brand, hub model specific. I would assume only one FHB will work with this hub.
2- I suspect the FHB is trapped between the axle (and the different diameter steps along the axle) shoulder and the end cap, or that is a typical design. The set screw would only hold the cap on the axle end enough to neo be lost. The QR clamping forces will keep the end caps and axle in one piece during riding. I suspect that gripping the axle's mid section with a pliers and the same on the end cap and trying to rotate the two against each other would be my next step. I suspect that corrosion or grime is keeping the end cap from being easily pulled off. Andy

Dave Mayer

The dozens of different freehubs is a major headache to our shop. We have a bin of all sorts of weird makes and models, and rarely do any of them fit to produce something useful.

And finding replacement freehubs from online vendor catalogues is both frustrating and expensive. Some vendors have a multitude of different models with minor variations that are incompatible with each other. So finding a replacement may be a lot more risky and costly that fixing what you have. Your pawls and ratchet ring looks OK superficially, so that is good news.

You have 2 main hub bearings, and 2 smaller ones in the freehub body. If the wheel is worth saving, all of these should be first checked for play and smoothness, and if they are at all suspect they should be punched out and replaced. The 2 main hub bearings should be relatively easy to punch out and new ones pressed back in. Find the bearing number and source online; you may have to wait a few weeks for delivery. Or if you are in a rush, you may be able to flush out old bearing and re-lube (grease only), or source the bearings domestically at a higher price.

You need to get the cap off of the drive side to access the freehub bearings. The inner freehub bearing may be secured with a C-clip which needs to be removed first. Good luck.

ivangobike

Sounds like the bearings are pretty shot. Have you tried using a mechanic's stethoscope to pinpoint the sound?

pstock

turned out to be 1x Bad bearing inside the hub itself. nothing to do with the freehub
diagnosed in about 5 secs by Malcolm of Biseagal bike shop in Toronto.

knocked out and replaced (a #6001 which he had on hand) in about 3 minutes by Malcolm too.
I now know better what to look for in troublesome modern(ish) freehub wheels.

Many thanks.
Peter