Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
Reload this Page >

Bike / Training advice requested

Notices
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

Bike / Training advice requested

Old 06-06-14, 11:13 AM
  #1  
peggyd73
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bike / Training advice requested

Hello! I've been reading this forum for a couple of weeks and found it very helpful - both in terms of bike ideas and encouragement.

I'm a 6ft tall woman at 325lb that is interested in getting more into biking. I have done charity rides in the past (75 many years ago and 25 last year) and would like to increase my commitment to the cancer fundraiser by riding 50 miles. I also would like to get involved in group rides for both meeting people and training.

I have been riding an old style hybrid (basically a mountain bike frame with 26 inch wheels and mostly smooth tires) and can plug away for 5-10 miles...although I'm pretty slow. I'm hoping a bike upgrade to something with larger wheels / thinner tires will help me go faster and further.

Based on research done mainly on this board, I've visited a few local bike shops and am considering either an upgraded hybrid (Trex 7.4x) or an entry level endurance road bike (tried specialized secteur yesterday). The drop handle bars and weight limits on the bike make me a little nervous (I have had back trouble before plus manuals all list ~275 for road bikes and ~300 for fitness / hybrids) but it seems like I should make the jump to road bike if I plan to do longer rides.

My questions for this group:
* Any experience with these two bikes or others you would recommend I try?
* After a short (20-30 minutes total) test ride on a couple different secteur bikes yesterday, the bike felt good but I woke up this morning with a sore lower back. Anyway to tell if its just an issue of change in position (so something I'll get used to) or an indication I should stay with flat bar bike?

thanks so much for your help and encouragement!
peggyd73 is offline  
Old 06-06-14, 11:22 AM
  #2  
ill.clyde
Senior Member
 
ill.clyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brodhead, WI - south of Madison
Posts: 2,928

Bikes: 2009 Trek 1.2

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 239 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
Assuming you can get the fit issue sorted out (and ideally your LBS will help you sort it out), I'd recommend a road bike based on what you've said.

A shorter stem/longer rise from the fork or a combo of both may help with the back problem. Fore and aft adjustment of the seat could help also.

For all intents and purposes your current bike is a hybrid, and while you can do longer distance on hybrids, I rarely recommend them when people start talking about riding more, riding longer, riding faster, etc.

As for the drop handlebars ... you don't have to ride in the drops, but they're a nice option to have. Riding on the flats of the bar or even the hoods give a somewhat "heads up" riding posture.

And re: the weight limits ... don't put too much stock in them. I've ridden my aluminum road bike when I was over 300 pounds

Welcome to C/A!
ill.clyde is offline  
Old 06-06-14, 11:23 AM
  #3  
ill.clyde
Senior Member
 
ill.clyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brodhead, WI - south of Madison
Posts: 2,928

Bikes: 2009 Trek 1.2

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 239 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
oh ... and chances are once your back gets used to riding the soreness will go away
ill.clyde is offline  
Old 06-06-14, 11:27 AM
  #4  
CommuteCommando
Senior Member
 
CommuteCommando's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern CaliFORNIA.
Posts: 3,078

Bikes: KHS Alite 500, Trek 7.2 FX , Masi Partenza, Masi Fixed Special, Masi Cran Criterium

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 11 Posts
Had a Trek 7.2. Sturdy bike, it should do. Look at a Giant Rapid too. Is it hilly where you are? if so, at our size, a triple crankset is a good thing, and there are not too many drop bar bike with them.
CommuteCommando is offline  
Old 06-06-14, 11:28 AM
  #5  
WestPablo
Banned.
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Welcome to BF, Peggyd73!

So what's the upper limit of your budget?

I think that I might have a solution for your cycling question?

Last edited by WestPablo; 06-06-14 at 11:48 AM.
WestPablo is offline  
Old 06-06-14, 11:44 AM
  #6  
Beachgrad05
Just Keep Pedaling
 
Beachgrad05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lakewood, CA
Posts: 3,355

Bikes: 99 Schwinn Mesa GS MTB, 15 Trek Domane 5.9 Dura-Ace, 17 Trek Emonda SL6 Pro & 18 Bianchi Vigorelli

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 251 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 67 Times in 34 Posts
Welcome to the forums!

I am not as tall as you but I have issues with my spine and hips. I actually am more comfortable on my road bike than my hybrid (I have a FX 7.2) for rides any longer than 25 miles. I "can" ride longer but I have no desire to on that bike.

Not sure where you are located but hopefully you have a variety of LBS nearby that you can go test ride several bikes.
Beachgrad05 is offline  
Old 06-06-14, 11:52 AM
  #7  
stephtu
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 230
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by peggyd73
I have been riding an old style hybrid (basically a mountain bike frame with 26 inch wheels and mostly smooth tires) and can plug away for 5-10 miles...although I'm pretty slow. I'm hoping a bike upgrade to something with larger wheels / thinner tires will help me go faster and further.
Any speed gains from a bike upgrade are going to be pretty marginal especially if you have smooth tires already. The main thing a road bike gets you is more hand positions (useful for comfort IMO, esp. if you are getting any numbness now), and the possibility of a more aero position down the line (which you probably aren't going to be comfortable in now, so can't take advantage of it). Also aero matters a ton more at 18+,20+mph which is likely to take quite a while before you can sustain it.

If you want to go faster and further, basically, ride lots. Consistently get out there getting in whatever mileage you can handle, and a couple times a week push your limits for periods of time getting yourself out of breath, slow down to recover, go hard again (interval training, push yourself a little, but not super hard until you've racked up some base mileage and feel in better shape). If there are some not too steep hills around, struggle up them (here an old hybrid or MTB can help vs. road bike, having lower gearing; if getting road bike and living in a hilly area consider getting the shop to put a MTB cassette & derailleur on to get lower gears to enable you to get up hills). Hills force you to work hard, no coasting.

* Any experience with these two bikes or others you would recommend I try?
* After a short (20-30 minutes total) test ride on a couple different secteur bikes yesterday, the bike felt good but I woke up this morning with a sore lower back. Anyway to tell if its just an issue of change in position (so something I'll get used to) or an indication I should stay with flat bar bike?
I wouldn't upgrade from basically a 26" hybrid to a 700c hybrid, not really a difference of any significance. Just stick with what you have, decide whether to get a road bike now, or maybe down the line. If you like the road bike hand positions but are still getting sore back after trying for awhile to get used to it, *swap the stem*. You may need a stem with a lot more rise, perhaps shorter, get you closer to or identical to the same body angle you are on your current bike. As your fitness/flexibility improve, you may or may not want to start lowering the stem/flip it/swap for a different lower/longer one to get lower, back closer to horizontal. Comfort is important, don't put up with soreness for speed, most important is comfort so that it doesn't stop you from wanting to get out there.

Last edited by stephtu; 06-06-14 at 11:57 AM.
stephtu is offline  
Old 06-06-14, 08:45 PM
  #8  
peggyd73
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by WestPablo
Welcome to BF, Peggyd73!

So what's the upper limit of your budget?

I think that I might have a solution for your cycling question?
My budget is ~ $1k
peggyd73 is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 12:19 AM
  #9  
WestPablo
Banned.
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by peggyd73
My budget is ~ $1k
Hey there, Peggyd73!

I think I have a couple of touring bicycle candidates for you. They're both from REI.

They are as follows:

1) The Novara Safari Touring Bike @ $764 (including pedals)

2) The Novara Randonee Touring Bike @ $960 (pedals NOT included)

* Is there an REI within your state, or perhaps a nearby state?

...If so, the service, savings, and the accommodation, will be well worth the trip.

If not, then we'll just reset, and start our search once again, with pleasure!

Last edited by WestPablo; 06-07-14 at 12:34 AM.
WestPablo is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 01:02 AM
  #10  
mcmoose
Senior Member
 
mcmoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Transplanted to PDX area
Posts: 480

Bikes: Trek Silque S, Bianchi Aria e-Road

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked 10 Times in 9 Posts
I'd suggest you go to your local Trek dealer and try out the FX 7.4 WSD and the Lexa S. Both are aluminum frame with carbon fork, and have similar quality group sets. That will give you a good side-by-side comparison of a hybrid and endurance-geometry road bike. If those models are too small for you, you might have to go with the FX 7.4 and Trek 1.2 (which has a slightly less relaxed geometry than the Lexa).

You can do the same side-by-side comparison with other brands... what you want to compare is their fitness hybrid and endurance road bike (probably aluminum frame with carbon fork at your price point).

I will say that I first bought a FX 7.3 WSD. It's a great bike, and I still use it as my commuter. But when I tried doing group rides, and all the other riders had road bikes, I couldn't keep up. So I bought the Lexa. Now, my fitness and speed were improving at the same time, but I've been consistently 2-3 mph faster on the Lexa. That may not sound like much, but falling 2-3 miles behind the group after an hour of riding is, well, a lot of distance and a lot of discouragement.

The main thing, of course, is to find a bike that fits you and feels comfortable to ride. Don't get discouraged -- distance and speed will come with time. Try to add about 10% to your distance each week... the speed will come on its own.

Good luck, and keep us posted!
mcmoose is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 02:29 AM
  #11  
WestPablo
Banned.
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by mcmoose
I'd suggest you go to your local Trek dealer and try out ....the Lexa S....
You can do the same side-by-side comparison with other brands....

I will say that I first bought a FX 7.3 WSD. It's a great bike, and I still use it as my commuter. But when I tried doing group rides, and all the other riders had road bikes, I couldn't keep up. So I bought the Lexa. Now, my fitness and speed were improving at the same time, but I've been consistently 2-3 mph faster on the Lexa. That may not sound like much, but falling 2-3 miles behind the group after an hour of riding is, well, a lot of distance and a lot of discouragement.

The main thing, of course, is to find a bike that fits you and feels comfortable to ride. Don't get discouraged -- distance and speed will come with time. Try to add about 10% to your distance each week... the speed will come on its own.

Good luck, and keep us posted!
+1 ^ This

I too, thought about the Lexa S, Peggy!

However, after perusing the REI website, I discovered the Touring bikes for prices that were either on par with the Lexa S or even better, that also had better componentry. For example, in addition to the Touring bikes, I also discovered the GT Corsa 1.0 which sells for only $800 and it comes equipped with a Tiagra gruppo. Of course, that's a step up from Shimano's Sora gruppo on the Lexa S.
While the 9 speed Lexa S does have a carbon fiber fork, it only has a 50/34 crank, leaving you without a "granny gear" for those more difficult hill climbs. OTOH, the GT Corsa 1.0 has a 50/39/30 triple crank, complete with the "granny gear". However, the GT Corsa 1.0 does have a chromoly fork, which makes it more compatible with a more touring oriented cyclist.

Either way you go, I'm sure you won't be disappointed with either the performance of the Lexa S or the Corsa 1.0, provided that each bike will give you the needed support required.

* Both the Lexa S and the Corsa 1.0 come with skinny tires (23 and 25mm). As heavier cyclists, I've found that wider tires lend us greater support. That's another reason I opted for bonafide Touring bicycles. Touring bikes always come with wider tires!

Should you decide to purchase some kind of road bike, I would strongly suggest that you have "interrupter brakes" installed.

...Now, GOOGLE IMAGE "interrupter brakes"...

You see, with interrupter brakes, you get to ride the hoods (tops) with relative ease, just like on a hybrid. Since you're hands are right there on the hoods, conveniently placed near the brakes, you can stop on a dime!

This position on the hoods will also save your back, as well as stopping time...

Last edited by WestPablo; 06-07-14 at 02:43 PM.
WestPablo is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 04:31 AM
  #12  
stephtu
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 230
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by WestPablo
While the 9 speed Lexa does have a carbon fiber fork, it only has a 50/30 crank, leaving you without a "granny gear" for those more difficult hill climbs. OTOH, the GT Corsa 1.0 has a 50/39/30 triple crank, complete with the "granny gear".
You meant 50/34 crank. Actually, given the right cassette, on a compact you can get as low as a triple, at least as originally configured, one doesn't have a "granny ring", but you have a "granny cog". A 34 ring is kind of "semi-granny". It's the ratio smallest chainring/largest cog that matters, e.g. the Corsa has a 30/28 low, which would be about the same as a compact 34 with a 32 rear cog. Lexa comes with 28 stock though, so the triple is lower here comparing original configs. I do prefer triples, ride one myself, it allows you to get a tighter cassette with the same overall range, or alternately go really low, < 1:1 gearing, with a larger cassette and/or smaller granny ring. Depends on the terrain, with steeper hills & the extra weight OP is carrying super-low gearing is a good thing to have. Thus my rec for MTB cassette & derailleur, many riders in my area (SF bay area) do this to help on the hills. The only thing is that triples are hard to find these days and limits your selection. Specialized does have Dolce/Secteur triples, albeit with 8-speed Claris.

Should you decide to purchase some kind of road bike, I would strongly suggest that you have "interrupter brakes" installed.

...Now, GOOGLE IMAGE "interrupter brakes"...

You see, with interrupter brakes, you get to ride the hoods with relative ease, just like on a hybrid. Since you're hands are right there on the hoods, conveniently placed near the brakes, you can stop on a dime!
Huh? On the brake hoods you just use the regular brake levers. Interrupter brakes are if you are on the *tops* a lot, the flat part of the bar nearest the stem.

I personally rarely use the tops because I like my hands in the neutral position rather than pronated, but YMMV. Mainly I use the tops when riding one handed to take a drink/eat, it dampens steering input.
stephtu is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 07:35 AM
  #13  
WestPablo
Banned.
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by stephtu
You meant 50/34 crank.
Yes, I actually did!...Thanks!


Actually, given the right cassette, on a compact you can get as low as a triple, at least as originally configured, one doesn't have a "granny ring", but you have a "granny cog". A 34 ring is kind of "semi-granny". It's the ratio smallest chainring/largest cog that matters, e.g. the Corsa has a 30/28 low, which would be about the same as a compact 34 with a 32 rear cog. Lexa comes with 28 stock though, so the triple is lower here comparing original configs. I do prefer triples, ride one myself, it allows you to get a tighter cassette with the same overall range, or alternately go really low, < 1:1 gearing, with a larger cassette and/or smaller granny ring. Depends on the terrain, with steeper hills & the extra weight OP is carrying super-low gearing is a good thing to have. Thus my rec for MTB cassette & derailleur, many riders in my area (SF bay area) do this to help on the hills. The only thing is that triples are hard to find these days and limits your selection. Specialized does have Dolce/Secteur triples, albeit with 8-speed Claris.
After all of the technical info submitted here, the bottomline remains that the Lexa S has its lowest gear ratio as 34/28, whereas the Corsa 1.0 has its lowest gear ratio as 30/28. Since the Corsa 1.0 has the lowest gear ratio, it has the largest mechanical advantage, due to the benefit given by the "granny ring". A feature that Stephtu himself, acknowledges can be of great needed assistance when carrying loads. That's why the triple remains his preference. Sometimes, that 34 tooth inner ring on the compact double, just isn't enough, and that's even with a 28 tooth cog!

That especially goes for the bicycle touring cyclist!

Huh? On the brake hoods you just use the regular brake levers. Interrupter brakes are if you are on the *tops* a lot, the flat part of the bar nearest the stem. I personally rarely use the tops because I like my hands in the neutral position rather than pronated, but YMMV. Mainly I use the tops when riding one handed to take a drink/eat, it dampens steering input.
Alright!...Alright!...Alright!...So I used the wrong terminology! Sheesh!

C'mon man___, I'm ole skool! We've never made any distinction between the tops, or the ramps, or the hoods. We've always referred to all three as just simply being, the "hoods"...

Similarly, we've never made any distinction between the hooks and the drops. We've always referred to both as just simply being, the "drops"...

Dude, whenever I cycle, I practically live on the hoods!

Ooops!...Sorry! I meant...the "tops"!

... My bad!

Last edited by WestPablo; 06-07-14 at 02:40 PM.
WestPablo is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 08:25 AM
  #14  
brad0383
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 33

Bikes: 2013 Specialized Sirrus Sport, 2014 Felt Z5

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you have a LBS that sells Felt bikes take a look as well. Good bang for the buck.
brad0383 is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 01:54 PM
  #15  
stephtu
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 230
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by WestPablo
Sometimes, that 34 tooth inner ring on the compact double, just isn't enough, and that's even with a 28 tooth cog!
Might be enough with a 32 cog though. The main thing is that options in triples are very limited these days on new bikes. E.g. Trek only offers it on the Lexa on their top SLX model at $1500+, out of her price range. If she can find that GT Corsa 1.0 in her size that's great, but it's a closeout model, and she didn't say if she had a nearby REI.

If not, if looking at new bikes, it seems it could be comparing 8-speed triple vs. 9-speed compact, which is closer to a wash in my view, since the extra cog mostly makes up for 30 vs. 34. In either case, depending on the hills, I am suggesting getting a 34 or even 36 tooth cassette put on (would need MTB rear derailleur also to handle greater spread). With the triple maybe a 26 instead of the 30 small ring instead of the cassette. It really depends on the terrain. Peggy what area of the country are you riding in? Do you know the percentage grade & length of any of the hills you'd like to tackle?

Regardless, at your current weight, there are likely hills too steep that are going to have to be walked, not ridden, or maybe avoided completely for awhile. But low gearing should help get up the lesser grades, slowly, but at least you get up, and eventually you get faster as the weight drops off and fitness improves.
stephtu is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 02:44 PM
  #16  
peggyd73
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by stephtu
. Peggy what area of the country are you riding in? Do you know the percentage grade & length of any of the hills you'd like to tackle?

Regardless, at your current weight, there are likely hills too steep that are going to have to be walked, not ridden, or maybe avoided completely for awhile. But low gearing should help get up the lesser grades, slowly, but at least you get up, and eventually you get faster as the weight drops off and fitness improves.
I'm in Columbus Ohio. Although I'm much more aware of inclines while on bike, we don't have many significant hills. I have used the 3rd crank on my hybrid on occasion but not often.

Thanks for all the advice.

I stopped in a different lbs this weekend and looked at a Fuji (won't work - only 24 spokes in rear wheel) but guy there suggested raising stem on traditional road bike if I was having back pain after riding. Have any of you tried that?
peggyd73 is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 03:20 PM
  #17  
Sullalto
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cascadia
Posts: 1,206

Bikes: Jamis Quest Comp

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
A higher stem would get you closer to a more upright posture, yeah.

I liked the entry level road bikes over the Novara Randonee, personally. They were more engaging, and seemed faster for the same effort. My thoughts on the Randonee were 'It would make a fine tool, but a poor mistress'. But I'm looking at a fun/fast commuter primarily, and for some combination of fast/fun/long fitness rides secondly. Admittedly, I'm looking to spend most of the time in the drops, because my commute is against the prevailing winds during the sunny part of the year, and I want a more aero position.

I was a little off, fit-wise on the Randonee however. You'd probably fit a bit better than me, I'm 6'3" and it's a touch too small.
Sullalto is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 03:36 PM
  #18  
stephtu
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 230
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by peggyd73
I'm in Columbus Ohio. Although I'm much more aware of inclines while on bike, we don't have many significant hills. I have used the 3rd crank on my hybrid on occasion but not often.
Well if you don't plan on traveling elsewhere to bike, that makes your decision a lot easier, don't have to worry about triple vs. compact or changing out the gearing. Anything will work in that arena.

I stopped in a different lbs this weekend and looked at a Fuji (won't work - only 24 spokes in rear wheel) but guy there suggested raising stem on traditional road bike if I was having back pain after riding. Have any of you tried that?
Definitely can help, should be able to get in approximately the same position as your current bike. Usually road bikes come with the stem as high on the steerer as it will go (no spacers above the stem), can't raise it any higher. To get higher, have to either flip the stem up if it's flipped down (most stems have a degree rise to them, can use them positive to get higher, upside-down for negative rise to get lower), or have the shop swap the stem for one with more rise if it was already flipped up, which they ought to be willing to do for free, or at least quite cheaply. A few bikes come with adjustable angle stems.

Last edited by stephtu; 06-07-14 at 03:39 PM.
stephtu is offline  
Old 06-07-14, 09:13 PM
  #19  
Black wallnut 
Senior Member
 
Black wallnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ellensburg,WA
Posts: 3,175

Bikes: Schwinn Broadway, Specialized Secteur Sport(crashed) Spec. Roubaix Sport, Spec. Crux

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 178 Post(s)
Liked 161 Times in 80 Posts
Ride a number of different bikes to test. Choose the one you like the look of and feels right. Then find a LBS that treats you like a valuable customer and friend and buy there. I've ridden the Sectuer, great bike, I've not ridden anything by Trek. Even though I have been a member of REI since 1978 I'd not recommend them over a LBS, they just are not the same. I also would not recommend a touring bike unless touring is your plan. Wheels can be changed out so don't dismiss the Fuji just because it has low spoke count wheels.

Now for my "training advice"
Ride your bike, lots, every day, several times a day. Don't worry about speed early, it will come over time. Once you have a base of several months and you can go for 20 mile rides and feel fresh afterwards then you could add intensity a couple days a week. Listen to your body. If you are tired or sore take a day off or just peddle easy for a day or two. Since hills are not an often occurrence seek them out, they will make you better. I agree that you should add 5-10% distance a week but in a different way. Each weekend go for one longer ride. Each week increase the distance 5-10% until you are 80-85% of your fundraiser distance. Remember to hydrate and eat enough calories to sustain your efforts. Resist the urge to eat more than you actually need. While shopping for a bike inquire about group rides sponsored by the shop and see if they have a beginner or slow group. They may have some other suggestions as well. Good luck.
__________________
Sir Mark, Knight of Sufferlandria
Black wallnut is offline  
Old 06-08-14, 12:47 AM
  #20  
WestPablo
Banned.
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Black wallnut
Ride a number of different bikes to test. Choose the one you like the look of and feels right. Then find a LBS that treats you like a valuable customer and friend and buy there. I've ridden the Sectuer, great bike, I've not ridden anything by Trek. Even though I have been a member of REI since 1978 I'd not recommend them over a LBS, they just are not the same. I also would not recommend a touring bike unless touring is your plan. Wheels can be changed out so don't dismiss the Fuji just because it has low spoke count wheels.
I do agree with some what is stated here. However, I must strenuously disagree with the LBS vs. REI comparison. REI's vary, just like LBS's vary. Some LBS's are 100% professional, friendly, courteous, and enthusiastic about serving their customers, while others clearly are not. Some LBS's train their employees on the proper methods of providing service to their customers, while most certainly, others do not. Some LBS's make certain that each one of their prospective new bicycle customers get properly fitted, or at the very least, are given the proper size bicycle that suits their physical dimensions, others are more concerned about reducing their inventory. I've personally witnesses a LBS be very friendly and courteous at the beginning of the sale. However, afterward the sale, they became discourteous, somewhat obnoxious, slack, and ill-concerned, about providing any after sale service. OTOH, I seen others that were completely customer-centered, and very committed to customer accommodation. Return policies and bicycle warranties, all go the way of customer service. If the LBS has poor customer service after the sale, the customer is just stuck.

At least with REI, the customer has a certain standard of expected customer service. There's a chain of command that must be acknowledge. Otherwise, a member's complaint about an employee's behavior will in most cases be immediately dealt with, in order to correct matters. REI takes their members' opinions and perceptions very seriously. Well at least that's my impression after being a member in two different states over the past 16 years. I've always been treated with respect and have gotten excellent service. I think quite highly of REI as an organization. OTOH, my opinion about a LBS is highly dependent upon that individual LBS. That's most probably the reason that Black walnut advises to "find a LBS that treats you like a valuable customer and friend". Well, just remember, your first impression of a LBS, may not be consistent with their history. I would further advise you to check with their BBB history and attempt to get the impression other neighboring businesses have of that particular LBS.

Also, with respect to my touring bike recommendations. Those recommendations were made primarily for three basic reasons. First of all, as cyclists with weight issues, many of us require added support at the interface between the road and our bicycles. That support is invariably derived from our tires for the most part. Wider tires generally provides such added support. Touring and cyclocross bikes usually have wider tire clearance for the wider tire, whereas most other road bikes usually do not. Secondly, the touring bike has a three rings, inclusive of the "granny gear", which facilitates the cycling of heavier loads, uphill. Finally, the touring bicycle, generally has a longer wheel base and lower bottom bracket, which renders us a lower center of gravity. This gives us much greater stability when either carrying loads, or when overweight. With a touring bicycle, being overweight is actually to our advantage. The greater stability is augmented by the fact that a touring bicycle, has also been equipped with a wider tire, rendering us even greater stability and control on the straight-aways and flats. While touring bikes will not win any bicycle crits, they can usually keep pace in the middle pack of road bike club rides.

However, I've also determined that speed is directly proportional to how efficiently power is transmitted from muscle mass to the bicycle's wheels.

Last edited by WestPablo; 06-08-14 at 12:57 AM.
WestPablo is offline  
Old 06-08-14, 01:32 AM
  #21  
WestPablo
Banned.
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by peggyd73
I'm in Columbus Ohio. Although I'm much more aware of inclines while on bike, we don't have many significant hills. I have used the 3rd crank on my hybrid on occasion but not often.

Thanks for all the advice.

I stopped in a different lbs this weekend and looked at a Fuji (won't work - only 24 spokes in rear wheel) but guy there suggested raising stem on traditional road bike if I was having back pain after riding. Have any of you tried that?
Hi there, Peggyd73!

Since you don't have many hills to climb, perhaps a double compact crankset would serve you better in the form of a cyclocross bike. I'm suggesting a cyclocross bike, because you'll still have the advantage of a wider tire clearance. Having wider tires can truly be an immense benefit to us, in terms of comfort and stability. There's nothing like added comfort while touring or cycling for long distances. I'm still recommending the touring bikes, though. They'll remain on my short list of recommendations. Touring bikes are not only the absolute best for touring, they also double as great commuter bikes, as well. Having the rack and fender mounts, along with bottle brackets are indispensable benefits. You're then, not only protected from the splashing elements, but you also have a place for the storage of all your portables, including your water.

Insofar as training is concerned, I think you've been given some excellent advice in terms of pushing yourself and adding mileage to your cycling regimen. However, I find the irrepressible urge to remind you how important it is to just simply remain active. No matter if its cycling, swimming, walking, or what have you. Just plan to do something every single day and execute it!

Also, diet is very important as you well know, I'm certain. I lost most of my weight (over 70lbs.) just from cutting out the carbs. Gone were the potatoes, pasta, rice, sweet drinks (including juices), and desserts, for over two years! I'm so accustomed to green leafy vegetables, poultry, and fish, that I sometimes forget that I can sometimes eat spaghetti and fried rice too!

Now back to cycling and back pain...

* Muscles that have remained dormant and out of use for a long time, do not like to be reawakened! They will manifest their anger from being awakened with excruciating pain in the area where they were awakened. However, once they've remained awakened for awhile, they begin to enjoy being awake and alive once again. They want to work and become active on a daily basis. Once they've been worked on a routine basis, they no longer scream out pain in anger, but they standout as the proud workers they've become, instead. They then ripple with joy, peace, and confidence.

Translation: Eccentric muscle contractions are muscles that experience tension as they lengthen. Whenever this occurs, muscles oppose a stronger force (your pedaling) which causes them to lengthen as they contract. This type of action is usually associated with delayed muscle soreness. After a brief period of relaxation (perhaps several days), a continuation of similar exercises can strengthen the entire area of muscles and can become an area of further muscle development.

Yes. You can raise the stem on a very limited basis. However, I would suggest that you most seriously consider the interrupter brakes that I prescribed earlier. Also, please observe the following videos, if time permits:

1) How To Perform A Bike Fit - Reach And Stem Length For Road Cycling - YouTube

2) www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VYhyppWTDc
(Performing the basic bike fit)

3) www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKnfqoapMao
(Choosing the correct size road bike)

4) www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbOP0oGdfyQ
(Dieting and Cycling)

Last edited by WestPablo; 06-08-14 at 02:41 AM.
WestPablo is offline  
Old 06-08-14, 01:46 AM
  #22  
bigfred 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 3,841

Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Hi, and welcome to the forum.

Any bike can help you achieve fitness. But, in reading your initial post the words that stood out to me were: "charity rides", "group rides", "meeting people", "training", "faster" and
"further". All of this suggests to me that a road bike is probably the better investment for you.

I'm not going to get too concerned with manufacturers. At 6' and 325lbs your primary concerns will be fit and durability of components (most notably the rear wheel). Given your height, most women's specific models are not going to be a consideration. Mrs Fred at only 5' 9", found that most of the women's specific frames were marginally too small in their largest available size and ended up on a men's or unisex frame.

Given your history of having already done a few reasonably long organized rides and concerns about your back, an endurance/comfort/Gran Fondo geometry is most certainly preferable to a racing bike. Other models that might be a consideration would be touring style or cyclocross style frames.

Your weight warrants looking for bikes that come with either a 32 or 36 spoke rear wheel. If properly tensioned, stress relieved and tension equalized by a reasonably talented and patient bike mechanic such a wheel should be up to the challenge of supporting you. This may narrow your options quite a bit. The other option would be to find the bike that speaks to you regardless of wheels and be prepared to purchase at least a rear wheel from the start.

With regards to gearing I would heavily recommend either a triple front crank or, if a double, at least a 34 or smaller front ring paired to a 32 tooth low cassette.

On the subject of your back. "Fitting" the bike to you properly can make all the difference. Both myself and Mrs. Fred have had back surgeries. We both continue to suffer and manager various back issues, both on and off the bike. First and foremost for us is weight loss. Both of us suffer considerably less when we're lighter, versus heavier. Second is flexibility and core strength. We both stretch quite a bit and perform regular core strengthening exercises. Then comes our bikes. Saddle height and position, bar reach and stack all play a role in our overall comfort. Positional differences of as little as 10mm can make all the difference in the world with regard to comfort on the bike. Getting saddle tilt right can sometimes be an even finer adjustment. And then, theres' how you sit on a correctly adjusted bike. Pelvic rotation, keeping elbows in and not looking too far up the road can all reduce back and neck issues.

Basically, don't get too concerned about your back until you've found the right bike for you, gone through a proper fitting that involved more than sliding the seat up and down and spent some time adapting to the new bike, while training your body to the new positions and discovering which things make a difference for you.

I disagree with those that say you don't need to be riding in the drops. Getting comfortably into the drops provides far more control and comfort descending and turning, as well as braking power and modulation than the hoods ever will. With this in mind, look for bikes that will allow a bar position sufficiently high that you aren't incapable of getting in the drops. Initially, at your current weight, this may be for realatively short periods and may only be while coasting down hill.

If you have a choice of shops in your area I would suggest that you work with the one that you have the most confidence in with regard to them considering your unique requirements and getting you on the "right bike" instead of the "bike they have on hand" and that are hopefully quick to agree to stress relieving and tension equalizing the rear wheel before the bike leaves the door, instead of a few hundred miles later.

Just my thoughts,
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
bigfred is offline  
Old 06-10-14, 11:17 AM
  #23  
peggyd73
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks so much for all the advice! I've spent lots of time over the last week or so visiting various LBS and tried out Trek, Specialized, Fuji,and Felt bikes. I've tried both hybrid (too much like current bike, definitely not going that route) and several different types of road bikes.

Given my $1K budget, Trek doesn't have an endurance road bike that will work for me but I found a couple of options with Fuji and Specialized. I'd appreciate any input on components from the experts on this forum as I make my final decision (found them both to be comfortable and liked both stores -- so think it will come down to which bike is better deal).

https://www.performancebike.com/bike...9_-1___1895509 -- Here's the fuji (road a cheaper version in store for fit / feel and found it comfortable but wanted better components).

The specialized link is broken (pasting it here in case they fix it...Specialized Bicycle Components) -- but I road two different models of this bike. Base model and step up. I liked the one step up (specteur sport) as felt more comfortable with brakes and shifters.

Cost is essentially the same on the two bikes (specialized is more $ but they have program to give donation to my charity ride, so evens out).... so which one would YOU get?

thanks again!
peggyd73 is offline  
Old 06-10-14, 11:46 AM
  #24  
ill.clyde
Senior Member
 
ill.clyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brodhead, WI - south of Madison
Posts: 2,928

Bikes: 2009 Trek 1.2

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 239 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
Me personally, I think the Fuji at Performance is an absolute steal at that price listed in the link. There are some component trade offs but I think you're getting more bike with the Fuji.

When you say more comfortable with brakes and shifters ... do you mean the actual component itself, or the way it was positioned? Positioning can be changed for your fit

I think you should look at the Lexa S too, as mentioned above. Your LBS may not consider it an endurance/road bike, but it's definitely in the realm and has eyelets and mounts for rear racks etc ... That said, the Fuji still is a better deal unless you can negotiate with your LBS on price for the Spesh or Trek.
ill.clyde is offline  
Old 06-10-14, 12:08 PM
  #25  
CommuteCommando
Senior Member
 
CommuteCommando's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern CaliFORNIA.
Posts: 3,078

Bikes: KHS Alite 500, Trek 7.2 FX , Masi Partenza, Masi Fixed Special, Masi Cran Criterium

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 11 Posts
You could probably save a few bucks skipping the disc brakes. I see nothing wrong with rim brakes on aluminum wheels. A bike with Tigra/Sora components with standard wheels and brakes should go for under $1k
CommuteCommando is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
finch204
General Cycling Discussion
28
11-14-16 05:01 PM
bakes1
Fifty Plus (50+)
18
05-17-15 08:02 PM
maiyen
Hybrid Bicycles
55
11-10-14 09:05 PM
Steve Sawyer
Fifty Plus (50+)
68
04-19-13 10:13 AM
bwh318
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
12
04-21-12 06:37 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.