farhad1371

Hi everyone, yesterday I picked up this specialized allez elite for only $500, today when i went for tune up I was told this bike is unusable because the crankset is totally ****ed and have to be replaced with a new one, they also said the cassette is dry and the wheel needs to changed, im not very technical about bikes so don't remember what exactly they said but i know i have to change the crankset so i could use the bike. My brother is pretty good with bikes so i thought if i could find the parts online we could set it up our self cheaper than outside! So I was wondering if you guys know where and what crankset i need to get ?
On the bike it says Shimano SG-X 10S 50-F! Also the metal bar inside of the crank is messed up

So im pretty bumped that the guy who i bought the bike from kinda scammed me but i think even if i put $300 or $400 on this pulse the $500 that i already paid, would still be worth it for Specialized Allez Elite!


Thank you

BirdsBikeBinocs

This might help you out. Scroll down the page and look for the parts that you need and then search for a dealer near you. I would bring your bike into a bike shop and ask what is needed and then ask for an estimate for them to do the work.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/produ...agra-4700.html

alcjphil

I think that you have to find a better bike shop. A "dry" cassette? Not a thing. Cassettes are simple sets of cogs that your chain engages with. Dryness doesn't affect whether they are worn or not. Crank bottom bracket bearings can wear out, but they can easily and inexpensively be replaced. Find another shop NOW. these guys are not helping you

sdmc530

Kedosto

veganbikes

[QUOTE=farhad1371;20698917 im not very technical about bikes so don't remember what exactly they said...[/QUOTE]

Just making sure that part of the post is visible before we go attacking another bike shop. We don't know what was said and certainly I doubt someone would say "dry cassette", chain yes a hundred times yes but unlikely a cassette, worn is common and rusty is the same. If they truly said dry cassette as being a reason to replace it then yes I would first calmly and politely speak with the store manager or owner and have them take a look and let them know what was said and if they don't rectify it then certainly find another shop, if they do stick with them people make mistakes and new mechanics sometimes misspeak. Humans do make mistakes sometimes and unless they are rude or nasty (when you haven't been) it is always best to give another chance. If problems continue to arise that they won't fix then certainly move on but always be polite and respectful and provide honest constructive feedback. In the age of cyberbullying nastiness is on the rise and is easy to promote with Yelp and other review sites. People don't want to give someone a chance to fix it, they just want to vent their nastiness for everyone to see permanently (or usually permanently because it is hard to get rid of that stuff if you are business) because instant gratification.

If the cranks need to be replaced you will likely want a 50-34 crank that has a 24mm spindle (or not because you might need or want to replace bottom bracket as well) and generally something that is compatible with your drivetrain so if you are running say 11 speed you want chainrings that are for 11 speed if it is lower a lot of times you can get away with using a 9 speed set up on 10 speed rings but not in every single situation. Shimano makes some great cranks but there are a ton of other options out there. Mostly likely Specialized used a Praxis Works crank which is a fine budget crank, if you are looking to go nicer or prefer that MUSA stuff or need an different combo of gears White Industries has you covered. I generally would stick with two piece cranks because they are easy to work with and find parts for these days. Older square taper stuff is harder to find especially in quality (though plenty does still exist)

I would go back to the shop (or a shop) and have them write you up an estimate for the work needed. Typical wear items include; chain, cassette, brake pads, cables and housing, tires (and also the innertubes and sometimes the rim strip as well), bar tape, chainrings and bearings. The Allez elite new which now has 105 instead of Tiagra is about $1350 brand new so keep that in mind but if the bike is overall in good shape and needs wear items replaced but fits you well and you want to ride it then spending some money on it isn't a wholly bad thing. However any dents mean don't bother buy something new. Also keep in mind only the original owner of the bike gets Specialized's Lifetime frame warranty, which does really work (my old langster cracked at the BB and they sent a new frame and fork (with a few other bits I didn't need but were appreciated)).

farhad1371

Hello again everyone, thank you so much for replies and help. Im gonna go to another shop just to make sure what others say and ill let you guys know how it goes!
And yeah i probably just misunderstood some thing about the dry cassette lol but i remember the guy said your wheel is moving for it self and its not safe, because the pedals were moving like fixie bike and he said they shouldn't move, don't know if that makes sense! Also i found this bike workshop that i could buy the parts and the ppl there would teach me how to fix the bike so i think that'd be fun to do, i dont know how hard is to change the crankset tho

Thank you again

SteelThisBike

Good you found a co-op situation, maybe some of the knowledgeable guys there can help you diagnose. Take it one thing at a time. I'm dealing with similar issues because I buy old steel bikes online (lol). With crankset it's not usually like you have to buy a whole new assembly. Bottom bracket and chainrings are common wear items to replace. How old is this bike? It sounds like it's been through the wars. I've got an Allez Pro from the 90s.

veganbikes

He could have been talking about a freehub or freewheel being "dry" as in no grease and that would cause the "fixed gear" like affect. Older bikes will use a freewheel where the ratcheting mechanism (what allows it to move) is in the gears and on modern bikes you will likely find a freehub which is where the ratcheting mechanism is and you put the gears on top of that. Sometimes people call a freewheel, a cassette just for perceived ease or sometimes lack of knowledge. If you have a higher end freehweel there is a dude on this forum who actually runs a spa service for those old freewheels to clean out old grease, grit and grime and put in new grease and make sure everything is functioning as smoothly and well as possible. https://www.freewheelspa.com/ (I cannot remember his handle here I believe it is @PastorBob but I could be wrong)
For some modern freehubs you can take them off and replace the cartridge bearings or on cheaper stuff you can clean and regrease.

Swapping a crank especially on a modern 2 piece crank like a Shimano Hollowtech II is super easy, usually only requiring two tools (sometimes a hammer as well). Square taper isn't super hard either but you just want to make sure the tool is on the crank nice and tight and is greased so you don't strip any threads and render the crank useless or hard to get off.

BrocLuno

I can not believe there is a version of that bike old enough to be a freewheel ... It almost certainly has a free-hub and cassette. So the rear wheel needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-packed with grease and reassembled. There is the possibility that it needs the free-hub reassembled and serviced too ...

If the wheel is moving side to side, it means the pre-load on the rear axle is not right. Could be that it got too much grit and grime in there over time and things are worn and gummed up... But no matter what, sounds like a full rear wheel service is in order.

The crankset issues are another matter. Sounds like the spindle is messed up. Specialized used a gradually better parts system as they moved up the line. It may have a simple BB and crankset with cup & cone bearings and it may have spun a race and tortured that spindle. Only disassembly and service will tell.

Sounds mostly like the "mechanic" was speaking in generalities and the OP was hearing bad things and trying to absorb ... In truth, it happens all the time. Many shops no longer want to do any of this tedious work which is basically clean and lube stuff. They want to sell parts or whole assemblies and just swap stuff.

I just went through this with a Specialized rear wheel. Shop loosened parts and handed me the wheel. I went home and took it apart, cleaned out a bunch of dog hair, replace the ball bearings on the drive side with ones I ordered at local auto parts house, greased everything well and took it back for a tighten and pre-load (because the bike shop has the tools). The charge to me was $10. But it was more than an hours work on my end, plus the auto parts loose ball bearings. So let's call it $30 for the whole wheel service. Runs super nice now

Likely the crankset is about the same - mostly labor ...

The Co-op guys will know exactly what to do. And the library may have a decent book on bike mechanics. Take your time and learn as you go. It ain't rocket science ...

TakingMyTime

It can be daunting getting and understanding information regarding repairs for just about anything, including bicycles. Understand your limitations. If you do not understand what they are saying ask them if they can explain it another way so that you can understand. Take out your cell phone and make some notes as to what they're saying, Ask them if there might be an alternative way to attack the problem. Just remember that you're the customer and if you feel uncomfortable with their explanation, as them again.

veganbikes

The Allez is a bike from the 80s. I believe the earliest models were made by 3Rensho and then Jim Merz made them for a while. The Sirrus used to be a road bike as well. Back in those days Freewheels reigned supreme until later in the 80s when the free hubs started to come out in quality. I think practically it first came out in the late 70s from Maillard and Shimano but Bayliss-Wiley might have done the first back in the 30s.

SteelThisBike

Keep in mind that Specialized still sells a version of the Allez Elite -- a full carbon bike. My Allez Pro is 1993, lugged steel from Taiwan,.

Given the particular price the OP mentioned I'd guess his Allez Elite is of a much more recent vintage. OP, maybe tell us what year your bike is?

veganbikes

The Allez is not full carbon. It does have a carbon fork which I believe might be an aluminum steerer (at least on the non-sprint models). You are thinking of the Venge, Tarmac or Roubaix. I believe maybe back in the early days of carbon where it was lugged with steel or aluminum lugs they did a carbon Allez but it is either mostly been steel or in modern times been mostly aluminum.

BrocLuno

Well the name Specialized Allez Elite sounds modern to me, so I'm still betting it a free hub

SteelThisBike

Yes, you're right, that was the old Epic I was thinking of, lugged with carbon tubes. Mine (Allez Pro) is lugged steel with an aluminum fork.

veganbikes

I thought it was the Epic, I just couldn't remember. Our old GM at the company built himself up a nice SS epic with an WI ENO hub it was a pretty neat looking machine for just putzing around when you don't want to ride you 10 other bikes.

sdmc530

veganbikes

Nice! Glad they moved to full carbon. I wish they did that on the Langster so I don't have to consider the possibility of buying a new full carbon fork just because.

sdmc530

veganbikes

No no that makes sense, I do remember that and am pretty sure they are full carbon. I think we still have a recall fork sitting in the basement of the warehouse for some reason. I doubt they would replace with a different materialed fork so I think they are using full carbon these days.