Help a new fixie owner diagnose a problem
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Help a new fixie owner diagnose a problem
Hey everyone! Long time reader first time poster here. I just bought a Pure Fix fixed gear bike. Now I know a lot of people on here don't like them, but I went to school with the owners of the company and thought it would be something cool to own. Plus I got a really good deal on it which made the decision easier.
Anyways, I'm having an issue where it seems kind of nothy when I pedal and the chain is loud. I have it setup with about a half inch of slack when I put my finger on the chain, which I read about doing somewhere on this forum. The rear wheel appears to be straight too. I'm not really sure what to do as I'm new to fixies. Any ideas?
Anyways, I'm having an issue where it seems kind of nothy when I pedal and the chain is loud. I have it setup with about a half inch of slack when I put my finger on the chain, which I read about doing somewhere on this forum. The rear wheel appears to be straight too. I'm not really sure what to do as I'm new to fixies. Any ideas?
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You'd have better luck in the FGSS forum, but new chains are noisey sometimes. It'll quite down. Make sure your lockring is tight and everything and you should be fine. I'm not sure if I'd run 1/2" of slack though, that's a lot. The chain shouldn't really be drooping.
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How much slack would you recommend? That's when putting my finger on the chain and pulling.
The lock ring is a concern of mine. I didn't have a tool so I couldn't check it when putting the bike together.
The lock ring is a concern of mine. I didn't have a tool so I couldn't check it when putting the bike together.
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I usually pull my wheel back in the drop out as far as I can by hand and then tighten the back wheel so the slack is gone. Slack is still there because it's impossible to get it perfect. I like to be able to push the wheel forward a bit in the drop out so I can easily take the chain off to remove the rear wheel if I get a flat. If you remove too many links though and the wheel is too slammed too far forward and the chain will become "crunchy" and the bike will be hard to pedal.
I'd definitely try to get a lockring tool and tighten it down the best you can, the more you ride and put resistance on the chain by back pedaling/skidding/whatever the better chance the lockring will slowly become loose over time and you'll need to retighten or else you could strip your hub.
I'd definitely try to get a lockring tool and tighten it down the best you can, the more you ride and put resistance on the chain by back pedaling/skidding/whatever the better chance the lockring will slowly become loose over time and you'll need to retighten or else you could strip your hub.
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1/4" slack for chain should be fine. But be careful I'm sure your chain ring isn't completely round so you'll have points where the chain is tighter than others. Rotate the cranks slowly and adjust your tension at the tightest portion of the chain.
If you don't plan on riding a lot or swapping out your rear cog it might not be worth it to buy a lock ring tool. LBS should be able to tighten that down
If you don't plan on riding a lot or swapping out your rear cog it might not be worth it to buy a lock ring tool. LBS should be able to tighten that down
#8
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not too tight where it is tightest , neither end is perfectly round , so there is a looser and tighter rotation of both ends, combined.
you just need the axle nuts tightening wrench ,
tighten 1 side nut, the left, then pull the wheel to the right.
with your hand, on the front of the wheel , till the chain is right, then tighten the other.
you just need the axle nuts tightening wrench ,
tighten 1 side nut, the left, then pull the wheel to the right.
with your hand, on the front of the wheel , till the chain is right, then tighten the other.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-07-15 at 01:52 PM.
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