Belt vs Chain
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Belt vs Chain
Just curious about belt drives. How do they compare with chain?
Efficiency
Weather resistance
Slippage
longevity
Anything else?
Efficiency
Weather resistance
Slippage
longevity
Anything else?
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Just go read about them or watch videos on yootoob.
Less effcient , less mess , less options
More for easy going city bikes and such .
Less effcient , less mess , less options
More for easy going city bikes and such .
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belts
less efficient
last longer
much more expensive
more finicky to set up
easier to maintain
I have one of each on similar bikes. The belt performs as advertised, no problems at all, but I don't think there is any real advantage over a chain and a few downsides.
less efficient
last longer
much more expensive
more finicky to set up
easier to maintain
I have one of each on similar bikes. The belt performs as advertised, no problems at all, but I don't think there is any real advantage over a chain and a few downsides.
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If I had to ride wet, it would be belts all the way. I had a belt on my Harley 1200c that took all the abuse you dish out and never whimpered once. Almost as good as a shaft drive for low maintenance
Prolly less resistance than a dry dirty chain. Prolly more resistance that a well oiled clean chain ...
Prolly less resistance than a dry dirty chain. Prolly more resistance that a well oiled clean chain ...
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I was just perusing youtube videos earlier today. This guy spec'd a belt drive for his 2-year bike touring trip from Argentina to Alaska. Belt drive mentioned at 4:04
I have no experience with belt drives though a buddy has one on his city commuter hybrid and loves it.
eric/fresno, ca.
I have no experience with belt drives though a buddy has one on his city commuter hybrid and loves it.
eric/fresno, ca.
#7
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Belt drive is the way of the future, IMO. My next bike will probably be a Gates Belt Drive coupled with a Pinion gearbox.
Greater longevity and no need to lubricate or clean/degrease saves far more time and effort than the ~1 watt you lose from efficiency differences vs a chain.
Greater longevity and no need to lubricate or clean/degrease saves far more time and effort than the ~1 watt you lose from efficiency differences vs a chain.
#8
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FWIW at my LBS they had a Broken crank cog ring, hanging from a nail for several years..... so know They are not invulnerable .. it took several days for a replacement to arrive,
Special order , with fast shipping charges..
but as the town is being made over for tourism,, abundant hotel rooms, restaurants and brew -Pub-cafes to fill up that waiting time..
A nice ,little , Drinking town with an old Fishing problem ,
When I saw them I thought inside a chain cover would be great ! , mostly to be anonymous,, not a 'steal me' , feature, highlighted..
and since chains in those covers rarely get oil , a drive that never needs it is Ideal ...
....
Special order , with fast shipping charges..
but as the town is being made over for tourism,, abundant hotel rooms, restaurants and brew -Pub-cafes to fill up that waiting time..
A nice ,little , Drinking town with an old Fishing problem ,
When I saw them I thought inside a chain cover would be great ! , mostly to be anonymous,, not a 'steal me' , feature, highlighted..
and since chains in those covers rarely get oil , a drive that never needs it is Ideal ...
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-25-18 at 03:54 PM.
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I’m eagerly awaiting the VEER ‘pro’ system in 2019, to convert my Raleigh SS to belt. Yes they are technically less efficient, but I don’t thank that practically matters for most people’s real world everyday riding. I’m not a cheerleader for belts, as I’ve never even owned one, but I would like to. The current biggest downside is that you need a special frame with a breakaway to put on or take off the belt, and the type of draivetrains that are currently belt compatible is limited. The VEER pro system is supposed to solve both of those, so I’m keeping a close eye on it. Based on just the well known basics, I would say that a belt system is the absolute best choice for a city bike/commuter/utility and long distance tourers/bikepacking if virtually zero maintenence and extreme reliability is what you’re after. There’s a reason most motorcycles have been using belts for some time now.
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Belt drive is the way of the future, IMO. My next bike will probably be a Gates Belt Drive coupled with a Pinion gearbox.
Greater longevity and no need to lubricate or clean/degrease saves far more time and effort than the ~1 watt you lose from efficiency differences vs a chain.
Greater longevity and no need to lubricate or clean/degrease saves far more time and effort than the ~1 watt you lose from efficiency differences vs a chain.
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Any of the K2/ProFlex/Girvin bikes can accommodate a belt w/o modification. Either the aluminum swing arm, CroMo arm, or the carbon one. No hassles. There are other brands with arched swing arms.
On the elastomer suspension bikes, you can use a stiffer poly bushing. On the shock arms, you can put in an Air Shock and pump it up enough and you will never have to worry about pedaling losses from bobbing.
I don't mind a bit of bobbing for the plush ride on my K2, even on the street (Fox Shock). It only happens when I'm up on the pedals climbing steeply, and not much even then. As long as I sit, no issues.
28 lbs all up with plush seat and rear rack, not bad for a trail bike that can run errands too
Not mine, just a snap off the Net:
Many are now getting converted to Gravel Bikes
On the elastomer suspension bikes, you can use a stiffer poly bushing. On the shock arms, you can put in an Air Shock and pump it up enough and you will never have to worry about pedaling losses from bobbing.
I don't mind a bit of bobbing for the plush ride on my K2, even on the street (Fox Shock). It only happens when I'm up on the pedals climbing steeply, and not much even then. As long as I sit, no issues.
28 lbs all up with plush seat and rear rack, not bad for a trail bike that can run errands too
Not mine, just a snap off the Net:
Many are now getting converted to Gravel Bikes
Last edited by BrocLuno; 12-25-18 at 04:34 PM.
#12
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Belts need to be under a consistent tension, not a variable one, maybe a V belt can handle a spring loaded 3rd pulley ..
Bike Fridays Silk had what looked like a swing arm , but it was rigid and included the BB and a way to tension the belt..
Bike Fridays Silk had what looked like a swing arm , but it was rigid and included the BB and a way to tension the belt..
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Some years back, I picked up a new-old-stock Calfee Luna Pro frame and built it up. When it was arrived, I was surprised to see the seatstays are bolted to the dropouts, with the bolt heads on the inside of the dropout. Now Calfee has been producing these for years, and I'm wondering if there were even belt drives around when they began. I'm thinking they may be doing it for ease of production.
https://calfeedesign.com/luna-classi...53973388671875
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Are belts better than chains?
If you are thinking of going with a belt drive you have to realize that you’re going to have to spend more.
Belts can only be used with internal gear hubs or single speeds.
This will make the bicycle heavier and more expensive to purchase, if going with internal gear hub.
You’re also going to lose some efficiency because internal gear hubs have more drag than derailleurs.
The plus side is that they require less maintenance but when they do go can be more expensive.
Plus getting parts and belts can be difficult, especially while traveling.
The plus side is that they require no oil and the belts can last a long time.
This is an issue I might address on my blog seeing many are asking about it.
#15
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Belt drive is the way of the future, IMO. My next bike will probably be a Gates Belt Drive coupled with a Pinion gearbox.
Greater longevity and no need to lubricate or clean/degrease saves far more time and effort than the ~1 watt you lose from efficiency differences vs a chain.
Greater longevity and no need to lubricate or clean/degrease saves far more time and effort than the ~1 watt you lose from efficiency differences vs a chain.
For some reason I think the Rohloff has more chance to be more popular. It also could have a belt (or chain), but will work with regular frames. But again, at the cost it has it won't be widely adopted.
#16
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That sure is a low maintenance setup. However, a system requiring proprietary frames for the pinion and expensive components (belt, pinion) is unlikely to be a widely adopted future unless prices really drop.
For some reason I think the Rohloff has more chance to be more popular. It also could have a belt (or chain), but will work with regular frames. But again, at the cost it has it won't be widely adopted.
For some reason I think the Rohloff has more chance to be more popular. It also could have a belt (or chain), but will work with regular frames. But again, at the cost it has it won't be widely adopted.
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I've run a Gates belt on my 8 speed Alfine IGH commuter for three years. My commute is an 18 mile round trip and I average 4 days a week on the cycle. I have also used the bike for some casual 25-30 mile road rides.
Downsides:
Based on my experience I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the belt drive with IGH or Pinion.
Downsides:
- IGH/belt a bit less efficient and a bit heavier (maybe 1 1/2 lbs) than comparable conventional drive. With this margin, I would say the engine is a much bigger factor for acceleration and speed, so this issue of weight/drag doesn't matter at all to me.
- Needs to be properly tensioned. The OEM eccentric bottom bracket on my cycle was crap and had to be replaced after two years with a quality part (however not all belt drives use this same tensioning method). The tension has been fine since.
- Bit more work to change a flat.
- Addictively quiet and smooth in any condition
- Virtually maintenance free once set up, even when riding every day in the worst weather (this is very important for me, as I hate having to clean/lube a chain)
Based on my experience I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the belt drive with IGH or Pinion.
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If you modded a ProFlex with the elastomer rear "strut" it would not change length much. It could be your tensioning system.
Harleys have been running belt drives for years with 3 inches of suspension travel at least. Belts can handle some slack, just not as much as chains with a spring loaded derailleur ... And you can add an idler roller with a spring to keep the tension constant, if you want to.
I was just offering a rear end example that did not require cutting the rear triangle ... I'll bet there are a lot of older MTB designs where the seat stays or upper suspension "rods" are moveable/removable, making them easy candidates for a belt conversion. Limit the travel and you are good to go
An ingenious person could prolly calc the belt length so that as the rear triangle came into alignment, it would induce correct tension ... And maybe adding a simple roller in the right place would keep the tension as the swing arm moved a bit for better ride ...
Harleys have been running belt drives for years with 3 inches of suspension travel at least. Belts can handle some slack, just not as much as chains with a spring loaded derailleur ... And you can add an idler roller with a spring to keep the tension constant, if you want to.
I was just offering a rear end example that did not require cutting the rear triangle ... I'll bet there are a lot of older MTB designs where the seat stays or upper suspension "rods" are moveable/removable, making them easy candidates for a belt conversion. Limit the travel and you are good to go
An ingenious person could prolly calc the belt length so that as the rear triangle came into alignment, it would induce correct tension ... And maybe adding a simple roller in the right place would keep the tension as the swing arm moved a bit for better ride ...
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My first exposure to belt drive was a Kawasaki that I bought in 1987. Fantastic experience w/that motorcycle, and it was an easy leap for me to accept belts on bicycles.
Belt drive is wonderful in winter. I do nothing in winter except to let my bikes drip dry inside. No lubing, no rusting of the chain, no crud in the (internal) gears.
The OP asked about slippage, and no one's commented yet on that. The belt does need to be "in the zone" with respect to tension. Too loose and you get slippage under load, and too tight leads to friction and noise. Hoping I don't get crucified for admitting this in a public forum, but I just "wing it" when adjusting my belt tension. There are tension gauges, and a phone app works pretty well, but I have good experience going by feel.
Belt drive is wonderful for people who just want to ride and enjoy a few miles now and then without having to fuss a lot with cleanup and lubing of chains. My daughter is a perfect example. She's not a bike enthusiast. She just likes to ride to work and back -- year round, including in winter! --and for enjoyment on sunny days. A low maintenance bike that needs no oiling and cleaning is perfect for that application and is easy to store inside her apartment, because no worries over grease on the carpet.
Belt drive is wonderful in winter. I do nothing in winter except to let my bikes drip dry inside. No lubing, no rusting of the chain, no crud in the (internal) gears.
The OP asked about slippage, and no one's commented yet on that. The belt does need to be "in the zone" with respect to tension. Too loose and you get slippage under load, and too tight leads to friction and noise. Hoping I don't get crucified for admitting this in a public forum, but I just "wing it" when adjusting my belt tension. There are tension gauges, and a phone app works pretty well, but I have good experience going by feel.
Belt drive is wonderful for people who just want to ride and enjoy a few miles now and then without having to fuss a lot with cleanup and lubing of chains. My daughter is a perfect example. She's not a bike enthusiast. She just likes to ride to work and back -- year round, including in winter! --and for enjoyment on sunny days. A low maintenance bike that needs no oiling and cleaning is perfect for that application and is easy to store inside her apartment, because no worries over grease on the carpet.
#20
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FWIW at my LBS they had a Broken crank cog ring, hanging from a nail for several years..... so know They are not invulnerable .. it took several days for a replacement to arrive,
Special order , with fast shipping charges..
but as the town is being made over for tourism,, abundant hotel rooms, restaurants and brew -Pub-cafes to fill up that waiting time..
Special order , with fast shipping charges..
but as the town is being made over for tourism,, abundant hotel rooms, restaurants and brew -Pub-cafes to fill up that waiting time..
#21
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This makes perfect sense to me. Anyone with a good mechanical aptitude should be able to set the tension to the sweet spot with little fuss, I figure.
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Belt drive + IGH is a fairly common setup on the Tour Divide rigs. Seems like belt drive ticks a lot of boxes for commuters and ultra distance bikepackers. Somewhat odd venn diagram there.
#23
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I had one. It was fine. A bit draggy but tolerable and no rubber band feeling.
I had trouble setting the right tension after a tire change and that caused some drag then skipping as I dialed it in but I wouldn’t have had that problem if I’d noted where the tensioner was before I unscrewed it.
i had other problems with that bike but they weren’t because of the drivetrain
I had trouble setting the right tension after a tire change and that caused some drag then skipping as I dialed it in but I wouldn’t have had that problem if I’d noted where the tensioner was before I unscrewed it.
i had other problems with that bike but they weren’t because of the drivetrain
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For me, it’s all about flat tire issues. I bought a frame with the intention of building a belt drive rig, but after taking a close look at fixing a flat on the side of the road, well, I’m not feeling the love.
Sure, setup and dialing in the system is easy in the comfort of the garage, but achieving similar results at the curb requires too many tools and finesse. Add in darkness and rain, and, count me out. I’m pretty sure breaking it down wouldn’t be too hard, but after slapping on the patch, getting it all back together and functional seems like a roadside PITA.
I’ve considered going tubeless, but that’s not a bombproof option. In fact, it may actually be worse because I’d still have to carry all the tools necessary for a tubeless system failure as well as fixing a slimy tubeless flat on top of the belt drive shenanigans. Solid, airless tires would work perfectly here, but who wants to ride like that? I’m not that desperate for belt drive.
Plenty of people say “it’s no big deal” but they’re not commuting through deep East Oakland. I can fix a rear flat like a NASCAR pit crew on a derailleur bike. I haven’t seen anyone be able to do the same on a belt drive bike.
-Kedosto
Sure, setup and dialing in the system is easy in the comfort of the garage, but achieving similar results at the curb requires too many tools and finesse. Add in darkness and rain, and, count me out. I’m pretty sure breaking it down wouldn’t be too hard, but after slapping on the patch, getting it all back together and functional seems like a roadside PITA.
I’ve considered going tubeless, but that’s not a bombproof option. In fact, it may actually be worse because I’d still have to carry all the tools necessary for a tubeless system failure as well as fixing a slimy tubeless flat on top of the belt drive shenanigans. Solid, airless tires would work perfectly here, but who wants to ride like that? I’m not that desperate for belt drive.
Plenty of people say “it’s no big deal” but they’re not commuting through deep East Oakland. I can fix a rear flat like a NASCAR pit crew on a derailleur bike. I haven’t seen anyone be able to do the same on a belt drive bike.
-Kedosto
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This is the comparison of timing belt drives vs chain drives for industrial drives. Note that some of the remarks would not apply to bicycle drive trains. Also, I think repair is problematic as likely more people would attempt to repair a rear derailleur compared to opening up an internally geared hub...
Timing Belt Advantages & Disadvantages | Pfeifer Industries
Timing Belt Advantages & Disadvantages | Pfeifer Industries